|Today 05:59 PM|
one last thing, (sorry to the OP for hijacking the thread)
This is the mounting adapter I made myself...
I made it out of thin duct metal, unfortunately, its so thin, I had to JB weld two together to make a stiff enough one to support the weight of the speakers. I did this for two reasons, I already had the material and two, I could cut it with shears and didnt have to use a power tool.
The ID is 5.5 inches, I traced this diameter with the cardboard stencil that comes with the JL audio speakers. To form the OD and the tabs, I traced my stock speaker and added a little extra to make the ring a little wider. then just put dots where the holes in the 3 tabs are and you are good to go.
If you decide to go this route, let me know, I'll help you out.
|Today 05:50 PM|
This is what I am talking about. The three tabs seen in these photos are what i called the "mounting diameter". They are larger than the JL audio mounting diameter, thus the JL audio mounting diameter needs to be made larger, via an adapter.
|Today 05:44 PM|
In my experience, the C2-650X speakers do NOT drop right into the soundbar. The stock speakers have a built in adapter (mounting tabs almost) that makes their mounting diameter slightly larger than the JL's, therefore you need to increase the mounting diameter of the speakers by using a mounting adapter or making one yourself. This will become blatantly obvious if you go to install them yourself. I made my own adapters and it was very easy, I would be glad to help anyone who has any questions.
2nd, the JL Audio 400/4 XD amp is also what I will be going with eventually. That amp has a relatively small footprint and does not heat up very much like other similar amps, therefore it can be mounted just about anywhere. I have the Tuffy security deck, so I will be mounting mine in my trunk somewhere that does not obscure my cargo.
EDIT: They are not drop in if you do not want to drill into the plastic of the soundbar like the OP did.
|Today 04:44 PM|
I'm about to do an install close to this with a bit different HU. I'm doing:
Pioneer AVH-X2500BT DVD
This thread is pretty similar, minus the sub. I am a bit surprised that the OP didn't mention anything about how well the speakers fit in the sound bar and up front. Normally you gotta cut or apply something to seal them better. This is my first install, but kinda looking forward to it. It doesn't seem all that technical.
Anyone have a suggestion as to the best placement for the amp...driver or passenger? I was planning on passenger since the power run would be alot shorter than to the driver all things considered.
|Yesterday 09:27 AM|
|nitroz680||I just cleared it out, try again|
|Yesterday 09:23 AM|
|Yesterday 08:45 AM|
|nitroz680||I did JL C2-650's all around with the C2 tweeters on the dash and in my opinion, my system sounds awesome, even with the factory 130 head unit and factory sub. You can get these bad boys on the cheap from Amazon.|
|12-04-2013 06:49 PM|
with upgraded oem system did you use the A or B Pac harness?
|06-12-2013 12:41 PM|
|Leonidas||I just did the c2 650s up front, Kenwood DNN990hd HU and Kenwood amp. I already did Kickers in the sound bar and a kicker sob, so I left those in. Sound is 10x better.|
|06-12-2013 10:46 AM|
|11-19-2012 10:39 AM|
I thought about going to the better C5 line but the C2 are just so easy to drop in. Literally no cutting needed on the tombstones. Sound great, handle a ton of amp power and are drop-in ready.
|11-18-2012 01:26 PM|
|fishmd||Lynskey, how do you like the JL C2-650's? I am drawn to these given the fit of the tweeters in the stock location. I just really don't feel like having to try to dremel out space to make something larger work. Kind of weird though that Crutchfield does not show these as being compatible with a 2012 Jeep?|
|08-26-2012 02:23 AM|
|Goguyted||Got it! Finnaly did it myself, being on vaca all week and not a drop of rain resisting me from heading to the garage... I just went and kept my face in the directions and my hands with the wires. I was successfull with hooking my Capacitor, Amp, and two 12" Rockford Punch 3 subs. Thanks|
|08-21-2012 01:07 AM|
|Goguyted||Oh yea I've been looking for a wiring diagram for weeks now and all I can seem to aquire that will allow me to simply plug my aftermarket amp to is the PAC SOEM-T but that requires you to tap 5 wires, and I'm not cutting anything I would just try to "plug" into the stock 22 pin gray plug with some nice electric accessories (back of stereo) for Left+ & - Right + & - and a remote start wire so the amp/cap. doesn't kill my battery, then I'd be perfect.|
|08-20-2012 11:10 AM|
Yeah I have no idea. Someone must have a 2012 witing diagram floating around. Looks like you need to tap into the speaker lines maybe before the amp (if you have that)...
I am good with wiring, but I usually don't tap into anything factory like that. All of my installs have been plugging in a harness adaptor and using an aftermarket HU to avoid extra items.
Do a search on your set-up for wiring diagrams.
|08-20-2012 12:45 AM|
|Goguyted||Hi I see you are working in a real close area of the Jeep that I am. I was wondering if you/someone knows the 21 pin plug-stereo color codes for the installation of a "PAC SOEM-T" (installation instructions)http://www.installer.com/pdf/soem-t.pdf So I can incorporate the 5 wires with the PAC SOEM-T to the correct pins...I'm a novice at the new vehicles electric and am having great trouble finding any legit wiring diagrams too.|
|07-11-2012 09:25 PM|
|06-22-2012 10:43 AM|
I have a PAC Steering Wheel interface box in my work Subaru going to my Alpine HU there - interestingly I was able to program some buttons on the steering wheel that are not available as buttons on the HU itself. Anyway - will definitely be getting another PAC unit for my Wrangler.
I'm glad to hear the EVIC is fully functional after the upgrade. Some thing just aren't clear before you actually get done with the work, so thanks for sharing the experience.
|06-21-2012 03:08 PM|
programmed as follows:
Left rear button - up/down for next channel, middle button for source toggle (CD, USB, Sirius, etc)
Right rear button - up/down for volume control, middle button for mute
Phone button - Pre-Selected channel changer (toggles through 6 pre-set stations)
Menu and compass buttons are unaffected.
|06-21-2012 10:04 AM|
|06-21-2012 09:00 AM|
|Ivoryring||Lynskey - does your EVIC continue to work as before with head unit replaced? Any buttons or functions (not audio/video/BT/voice/phone related) lost when pulling out the stock HU?|
|06-19-2012 12:49 PM|
Vibration project is complete. Started a new post here:
|06-12-2012 08:43 PM|
However I have noticed that the sub vibrates the shit out of the "sub tub" on certain songs. While I don't mind adjusting the bass on the fly with my remote bass knob for the amp, I can't stand bass induced vibrations.
The fix? Well knowledge in what is happening is the first step. In my last vehicle (2010 Ford Escape) I had sound deadened the entire vehicle. Not talking about sticking monster mat all over - real sound deadening and noise reduction.
With the Jeep I know it is not a SUV. It is not meant to be quiet. But It is also not supposed to rattle when the sub is hitting on a good song. So the fix will be some products from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com.
Plus it will help eliminate the increased awareness of the vibration once the hard top goes on for the winter.
I'm picky, what can I say. I don't like things rattling from bass vibrations. I hate the clubby sound from rice rockets that crank the bass with everything rattling. I like good sounding music - not bass booming stuff. Rattles in a Jeep are fine but not to the point of this.
|06-12-2012 09:14 AM|
|Lynskey||I haven't done anything in a few weeks. Been enjoying the tunes!|
|06-11-2012 08:15 PM|
|Opie9||Looks great.. Any updated pictures?|
|05-17-2012 03:06 PM|
Yeah not sure on the phone button. I remember something about it not working.
On mine I have the left side buttons behind the wheel for channel up/channel down and middle button for selection of input (USB1, USB2, Sirius, etc).
On the right side behind wheel I have volume up/down and mute for the middle button. Those were all I cared to have programmed. I use the big ol' BT button on the HU for the phone.
|05-17-2012 02:07 PM|
Pac has a spec sheet on what their units can do specific cars/headunits
|05-17-2012 01:27 PM|
Lynskey, you really know your stuff...and I'm subscribing! I looooooove music and absolutely must have at least decent sound in my vehicles, but I've never been very good at configuring sound systems. Always had someone else do the installs, and always had difficulty making decisions on which speakers, head units, etc. to purchase for them to install. After reading this thread (which I found from the other thread you posted in earlier...so thanks!), I'm hoping to learn (and hopefully retain) enough to help me make a sound (no pun intended) decision on upgrading my system in my JKU. I went with the base system KNOWING I would want to upgrade at some point -- just gotta learn what to buy and how to go about installing. Again, your thread and tips have been VERY helpful so far. Kudos to you!
|05-17-2012 12:41 PM|
I haven't tackled the factory microphone yet. I think you can splice the HU microphone into the factory one. I plan to investigate that soon. My Pioneer microphone was run up the a-pillar and left next to the factory microphone for ease of investigation later.
You can use the factory Sirius/XM antenna that comes stock. It is the same end that plugs into your tuner. However the "snap" piece that retains it on the factory HU does not work and the fit is not secure. I used zip ties to affix it in place and it works perfect.
I did respond to your speaker size question. I'm thinking adaptors to use the 5-1/4" up front would work. Don't think a larger size would fit without modification. But I remember the 6.5" had some play on the front pods. I would pop out the passenger side box and check.
|05-17-2012 12:35 PM|
Power and amp turn on (remote) are tucked under the drivers side along with the bass remote wiring. That stuff is powered so I keep it away from wires/RCA.
Then the front left speaker goes up the front a-pillar and along the rollbar under the padding. Specifically ran that way to not be run next to 4 gauge power along the floor. Then they "meet up" with the 2 soundbar lines and run the rest of the roll bar down the drivers side. Those three go under the seatbelt box and into the amp.
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