|05-24-2012 09:30 AM|
|05-23-2012 08:04 PM|
|05-21-2012 07:15 AM|
|lolpetewtf||ya, amp only powers the sub. I can mount the amp to the box as well, just worried about weight.|
|05-21-2012 06:46 AM|
That is why I don't use the Access kits or adaptors. With the PAC you plug into the factory plug and everything lines up. You would not have needed to tap into the cig plug. And the PAC-SWI programming takes 5 min.
I hear you on the seat hide install. That's why I mounted mine in the rear. You can mount to the swing gate, but that's a lot of work and a lot of wires running to and from. Unless your amp only powers the sub? Then not too bad. But I don't like the idea of amps moving around too much.
|05-20-2012 07:50 PM|
I tapped the cig power because the guy at the audio shop said I had to. I figured it was weird but whatever, I don't know shi!t about this stuff lol. He was not very helpful, and kind of a dick (Luxury Details, Framingham MA). Yes, remote out was on the harness and ran to the amp.
I did not use a PAC-SWI. I have an Axxess thing but did not use it. I was so done with all of this I said f-it.
Mounting....uhhhhhhh....did not come out so good. I have a temp location now:
It will not fit fully under the seat because of the ground and power sticking out the sides. I am thinking of mounting the amp/sub to the swing gate. Someone around here did it and it worked. Kind of worried about doing that though. Anything know about this? Sub at the moment is behind the rear seat. I put it in because it kind of hides the amp until I find a place for it. I'd like to mount it to the gate and get a tuffy trunk kit thing. Mehhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Actually, now that I think if it, he was right. I tapped the cig line with a POS connector thing and the radio did not power on (would have if power was in the harness). So then I soldered it and it worked.
|05-20-2012 09:36 AM|
Lolpete. Nice install. I am unclear why you used the cig lighter for anything? Both constant and switched power comes in the harness. Your HU remote out would be your turn on for the amp? Just curious.
Did you get the PAC-SWI? If so all you do is program for code # 2 and then manually tell the unit what buttons you want in the specific order that the SWI instruction list says. It takes a couple times but then you get the 2-part program. I highly recommend getting it in and hooking up.
Excellent pics. I am interested to se how your going to mount the amp under the seat. I looked and there was NO WAY I was getting an amp in there and still comfortable with the heated seats plugs. I could have ripped the seat out and really done a god job, but in the end running to the back was just so easy. Plus tuning it is a breeze. Obviously theft is a concern...
|05-19-2012 08:40 PM|
|lolpetewtf||Oh yah, I gave up on the steering wheel adapter. I finally had the unit working and was not in the mood to attempt to figure it out. I opened it, might sell it on here or hold on to it for the future.|
|05-19-2012 07:19 PM|
Sure can! Check this Facebook link:
It took about 10 hours yesterday and 5 or so today. Never did it before. Pictures can only tell part of the story but this video literally saved my (and lots of others peoples asses: 2011 / 2012 Jeep Wrangler Dash & Radio Removal - YouTube )
Bravo to the guy who made that video. Overall it went well. I went and got a harness to attached to the factory one, then to the Clarion unit. Worked well, just follow the wording on the new harness, and paperwork to your new unit. I was scared shitless but I made it work. Had to tap into the cig lighter positive wire (the colored one on the right) to make it work. I soldered everything/electrical tape.
Amp is under the drivers seat. I am going to button it down tomorrow, as with the sub. I am such a noob with this stuff I am shocked I made it work! Any questions let me know.
|05-18-2012 10:05 AM|
|05-17-2012 03:13 PM|
|lolpetewtf||Whoaa that's next level shit right there! I will be installing tomorrow. My beautiful TS-SWX251 is sitting next to me =)|
|05-16-2012 11:53 AM|
Just don't splice the main harness. Get a PAC-Audio adaptor. That retains your original factory in-tact-ness! From there everything is color coded. Most after market HU use the same wiring colors. Green and green/purple stripe for x, grey and grey/white stripe for y etc.
Then you just need to decipher +/- of the Jeep speaker lines.
Actually the Jeep is super easy compared to my previous 2010 Escape.
|05-16-2012 08:59 AM|
|lolpetewtf||I'm getting nervous about all this stuff lol. I don't mind splicing, I have done it before, and have a kit. It's the whole what wire goes with what wire thing that makes me nervous.|
|05-14-2012 10:47 AM|
I personally don't like Metra harnesses. I like the PAC-Audio harnesses much better. You want the PAC-C2R-CHY4 one and the PAC-SWI for steering wheel interface. PAC uses plug and go technology for the SWI. No splicing needed. Plus they use color matched wiring that lines up with aftermarket stuff.
I used the PAC harness to keep the switched and constant power which I believe retains the CANBUS. Basically you can turn off the vehicle, remove the key and you still have working power until you open a door. Then everything clicks off - just like factory.
But I ran new everything including speaker wiring. I didn't cut into a single wire.
|05-13-2012 08:38 AM|
|05-12-2012 10:14 AM|
You might need something like this:
(along with the steering wheel control adapter)
PAC Chrysler Radio Replacement Interface Allows aftermarket radio installation in select 2004-up Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep vehicles (model C2R-CHY4) at Crutchfield.com
Found it A LOT cheaper on ebay:
Unless you plan to run ALL new wiring.
Which brings up a question I have...
Is there any reason, when going full-on aftermarket, to keep it hooked up to the Canbus? Would it hurt anything to make the sound system totally independent, like the "old days"?
(other than the obvious reasons like: uconnect, sat, connectivity group, etc)
|05-12-2012 08:57 AM|
Audio guys: Rate my low-cost stereo upgrade
I just got my 2012 without Infinity upgrade. (Great choice!)
So I want to do a low-cost system. Not looking to break windows with 2x12" subs or anything like that.
I replaced my sound bar speakers and fronts with the 77KICK10 units already and used polyfill. Sounds good, but needs more oomph of course.
So here goes:
Pioneer 10" shallow sub. (I have a 2DR, hence needing to save space) It is already in the mail, and I got it for like $120 shipped -
Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SWX251 10" Flat Subwoofer with Enclosure 800 Watts: Car Electronics
Clarion head unit: Amazon.com: Clarion CX501 Double-DIN CD/Bluetooth/USB Receiver: Car Electronics
A low-cost BOSS monoblock amp to run the sub:
Amazon.com: Boss Audio R1100M Mosfet Monoblock Power Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control: Car Electronics
Got good reviews, seems to be what I need.
Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics
Steering wheel interface:
Amazon.com: Metra 95-6511 Chrysler/Jeep DDIN 2007 Dash Kit: Car Electronics
I do not plan on running the Kicker speakers on an amp, want to see how they sound with the radio first. If I need to upgrade in the future I will. Trying to keep the price low at the moment. Have not yet decided on tweeters, but those will be done soon.
So, how's it look?