|05-24-2012 01:36 PM|
A 3rd Option For Getting The Doors Off (air hammer required)
So I've posted this a few times in other random threads and thought I would do a pictureless (sorry) write up on another option for getting the doors off if the classic back and forth while pulling up method as well as the block of wood and jack option failed. I wish I would of taken pictures of the process, but didn't even think about it at the time (sooo I apologize for no pictures, but hopefully my description will work).
-Doors will come off
-A smidge easier than the first two options
-Broken pin vs bent door
-Possibility of mushroomed threads
-Possibility of chipped paint from vibrations (didn't happen to me though)
-Might need to buy new door pins
What is required for this option:
-13 MM socket
-Hammer Attachment (Example: Grey Pneumatic Hammer 1" Standard )
-"Skinny" Hammer Attachment (reminds me of a punch, but the end is flat instead of pointy) (Example: http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST6565.jpg )
-Wire Wheel or a device to take off rust
-White Lithium Grease
I tried about a dozen times by myself as well as with buddies to get the doors off with the back and forth while pulling up method. They just wouldn't budge. I used PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40, Freeze Release (can't think of the actual name, but it's about $20 a can) and still got no results. Moved on to the block of wood and jack method...
A co-worker in our industrial shop and I tried this method. We took the block of wood and positioned it as close as we could to the bottom hinge while still resting on the door. As we started jacking the wood up, the door would not break free from the hinge. My co-worker finally decided this was a bad idea and wanted to try a different option seeing that the Jeep was tilted to the opposite side by the door (a few more pumps of the jack and we probably could of changed the tires). He suggested we use the air tools and see if we could push the pin out and from there have the doors off. He said he'd rather have a broken pin rather than a bent or screwed up door since the pin is obviously cheaper than a new door (was afraid about the bottom of the door bending or something major happening). So off to option three...
The air hammer option:
1. Remove the top and bottom nuts if not already removed (13 mm wrench)
2. With the air hammer attach the hammer attachment and slowly/carefully hammer from the bottom of the pin up to where it's flush with the body hinge. Take your time with this step!!!
3. After the pin is flush with the body hinge, use the "skinny" hammer attachment to push the pin farther up from the bottom. Depending on the size of the "skinny" hammer attachment you may need to put the attachment on the bottom side of the top of the pin and push up. The pin just needs to be pushed up so it's past the body hinge. Again take your time with this step!!!
4. Once the pin is out of the body hinge the door will come right off (make sure you have someone holding the door)
5. At this point, you can choose to take the pin completely out and hit it with a wire wheel or some sort of other thing to clean the rust off or you can use the rubber mallet and manually hammer the pin back into the door mount. If you mushroomed one of the pins threads, cut the threads off or just leave it. I currently have a nut in each top door bracket and both lower brackets have the threads cut off.
6. Spray some white lithium grease in all the door hinge holes as well as on the pins.
7. Finally stand back admire your doorless Jeep and smile.
Again sorry for the lack of pictures, but hope this well help someone in the future who is having a rough time with the first two options...