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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-23-2008 02:03 PM
4.0l sahara Ya it will be alot better after i clean up all the wiring and stuff.
10-23-2008 11:40 AM
Jma20a that's just a little ugly back there. what you should do is turn the amps so that the wires are more hidden under the carpet.
10-22-2008 11:38 PM
tobycat1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.0l sahara View Post
well i finnaly got back on this and have it mocked up so i can get it all set up before i clean it up. It's got alot of kick for a 10"


just a tad messy.
yeah, i got 2 12" of those and they slap!
10-22-2008 08:07 PM
4.0l sahara well i finnaly got back on this and have it mocked up so i can get it all set up before i clean it up. It's got alot of kick for a 10"


just a tad messy.
08-16-2008 10:06 PM
Triple88a ^ in that case might as well do the in seat setup.
08-15-2008 02:42 PM
drewkac I have a 2000 and what i did in order to not loose trunk space was upgrade my soundbar speakers. after that i got a 10" MTX mounted in a pickup box sitting in between the front and back seat. if you set it right in the middle most boxes will fit and you loose minimal leg room. i wired it in with the amp under the seat. sounds great.
08-15-2008 02:20 PM
Jma20a the only reason i can see them using piping is static interference with any speaker wires or rca's.
08-15-2008 01:34 PM
Triple88a lol those guys are much smarter than you think man. Many of their setups there use double 0s.
08-15-2008 11:53 AM
Jma20a what size wire are they using? 16 gauge? welding wire will long outlast the kit wires.
08-14-2008 09:03 PM
Triple88a You guys might want to check out the realmofexcursion forum. Its specifically for audio and those guys make some real noise. There were few folks that used welder wire and they used plastic piping to protect it. Pretty much they put the wire through a plastic pipe and ran it all the way to the amp. This way it doesnt get damaged and it if does, it wouldnt get far.
08-14-2008 11:38 AM
Jma20a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
I've seen people use welder wire and this thing is a ticking bomb.
they must have had some bootleg wire, we use welder wire for all of our equipment at work and it lasts longer than any one of the power and ground wires that come with those amp wire kits.
08-13-2008 10:37 PM
4point Welding cable is a great choice for automotive power. The jacket is rated for extreme environments, heat, vibration and puncture. The high strand count is best for low voltage high amperage. The only cable that is rated higher is Rail cable used by rail road companies.
08-13-2008 10:20 PM
Triple88a Sherman, the problem with most ordinary wires is they cant bend. Next they have thin hard shield which can get chewed up and worn out on spots fast especially in a vibrating (automobile) environment. I've seen people use welder wire and this thing is a ticking bomb. The cover wears out very fast on certain spots that get a lot of vibration and a 4 gauge wire connecting the ground and the + terminal isnt that good. Sure the fuse should blow but then 10-15 bucks more on a new fuse.. there goes ur 2 bucks in savings.
08-12-2008 05:23 PM
slf41002
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
I've never seen amplifier wire being sold by the foot.
Well some call it amp wire some call it plain electrical wire never the less he is saying you can buy almost any size wire by the foot 4 guage,6,8 I myself do not buy "amplifier wire" I use bulk rolls.
08-12-2008 01:55 PM
Jma20a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
I've never seen amplifier wire being sold by the foot.
i order all my power and ground wires through a local electrical supply store, its cheaper and you can choose the right wire for the job.
08-12-2008 12:39 PM
Triple88a I've never seen amplifier wire being sold by the foot.
08-12-2008 08:19 AM
JK Rouge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
lets think reality here, what is the reason you'd buy 15 ft of 4 gauge wire (kit), use maybe 8-9 ft and throw the rest and then buy 15 more ft of 8 gauge wire (you might use 5-6 ft to wire both amps?) and use a distributor block with 2 fuses in it to support the 8 gauge wires if you can buy 1 kit with 4 gauge kit that you can cut up and 4 gauge distributor block and then use that all the way to the back?
Not everyone buys their wire in "kits". Wire is available by the foot and larger gauge wire is more expensive than smaller gauge wire. I agree it is sometimes better to just oversize everything. It's only money.
08-11-2008 10:42 PM
Triple88a lets think reality here, what is the reason you'd buy 15 ft of 4 gauge wire (kit), use maybe 8-9 ft and throw the rest and then buy 15 more ft of 8 gauge wire (you might use 5-6 ft to wire both amps?) and use a distributor block with 2 fuses in it to support the 8 gauge wires if you can buy 1 kit with 4 gauge kit that you can cut up and 4 gauge distributor block and then use that all the way to the back?

If the wire is too big, then get a piece of metal and put it on top of the wire and crimp it. This will not only help getting the wire in the hole but will also ensure proper connection vs the little set screw that only puts pressure on a single point.



08-11-2008 04:25 PM
tobycat1
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ_Bleu View Post
those blocks aren't worth $80 IMO)
true, go on ebay. $10
08-11-2008 02:32 PM
JK Rouge
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobycat1 View Post
didn't quite get some of that cuz im tired, but you have a fuse at the battery of course. BUT any good dist box has a smaller individual fuse for each wire that is distributes. even the cheap ebay ones have them.
Correct. Someone asked why they distribution blocks have fused outputs. I was just saying why.

Also, in case anyone was thinking of cobbing their own distribution together (it ain't rocket science, and those blocks aren't worth $80 IMO) just advising that the smaller output liness may need to be fused.
08-11-2008 01:27 PM
tobycat1
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ_Bleu View Post
Triple is correct, there must be a fuse located as close to the battery as possible. Fuses aren't there to protect the audio equipment, they are there to protect the Jeep (from a fire).

So you size your fuse higher than your expected load but it must be lower than what the maximum is for the gauge of wire being used, otherwise you could have a situation where the wire's burning and the fuse is still not blowing.

This is where the dilemma of a distribution block comes in. If you use the same gauge of wire to feed the distribution block and also to the amps, no problemo. But if you decide to run 4 gauge from battery to the dist. block and then size down to a smaller gauge going to the amps then the big assed fuse at the battery may be too big to protect the smaller gauge to the amps. That's why you would need to refuse the output from the block at a size consistent with the smaller gauge.

If the total amperage draw for all of the amps is lower than the max. current rating for the smallest gauge wire being used, you can just use that size fuse in the fuse at the "closest to the battery" location and be perfectly safe.

Hope that helps.
didn't quite get some of that cuz im tired, but you have a fuse at the battery of course. BUT any good dist box has a smaller individual fuse for each wire that is distributes. even the cheap ebay ones have them.
08-11-2008 08:19 AM
JK Rouge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
Lol the fuse in this is useless. YOU WANT THE FUSE ALMOST ON THE BATTERY.. NOT ALL THE WAY BY THE AMP AT THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE.
Triple is correct, there must be a fuse located as close to the battery as possible. Fuses aren't there to protect the audio equipment, they are there to protect the Jeep (from a fire).

So you size your fuse higher than your expected load but it must be lower than what the maximum is for the gauge of wire being used, otherwise you could have a situation where the wire's burning and the fuse is still not blowing.

This is where the dilemma of a distribution block comes in. If you use the same gauge of wire to feed the distribution block and also to the amps, no problemo. But if you decide to run 4 gauge from battery to the dist. block and then size down to a smaller gauge going to the amps then the big assed fuse at the battery may be too big to protect the smaller gauge to the amps. That's why you would need to refuse the output from the block at a size consistent with the smaller gauge.

If the total amperage draw for all of the amps is lower than the max. current rating for the smallest gauge wire being used, you can just use that size fuse in the fuse at the "closest to the battery" location and be perfectly safe.

Hope that helps.
08-11-2008 01:28 AM
fr0st m0nkey I just installed a Kenwood KDC-BT838U in my TJ and put the bluetooth microphone in the vent and it sounds fine. I also installed some Boston Acoustics S55's in my sound bar and am waiting on an adapter plate so I can put some Boston Acoustics S75's in the dash. I put a down firing JL 10w3 in a custom box for the wrangler behind the rear seat, but I haven't hooked it up yet. Tomorrow I'm planning on installing my JL TMA 320.4 amplifier for my speakers and putting in a JL 500.1 in for the woofer. Once I get everything squared away I'm going to post some pictures of my setup for others to build off of.
08-10-2008 07:58 PM
4.0l sahara built a box and i thought it would be perfect. It was about 1/2" to big once the speaker is added it will hit the tail gate. There are pics in the what u do for your jeep today thread. I need to eather move the seat if i can or make the box wider and thinner to keep it just above 1 cubic foot.
08-04-2008 02:50 PM
4.0l sahara Oh ya i have the amp now. Today i motavated my self to put my jeep back togather rather than go chill with my freinds so in the next few days after the jeep is back togather i will start with the sub.
07-18-2008 12:55 PM
Triple88a lol for mine i had to move the seat brackets forward a notch.. eventually it started rattling so i just yanked the entire thing so i can make space for my full steel doors. I also had to move the amp to the speaker box otherwise it would be in the way of the doors.
07-18-2008 12:43 PM
tobycat1 haha, my sub box is too big to be lifted out if the back seat is in.
07-18-2008 11:52 AM
Jma20a i have a set of high grade locking nuts under the rear floor and it is hard to get to. it took me around and hour to get it done and there is no way you can get the amp out of there without a cutting wheel or having to lower the gas tank the get to 2 of the 6 nuts under the floor. the locking nut is something new that we started using at work, it looks like someone too the nut and put it in a vice and squeezed it a little.
07-18-2008 11:45 AM
Triple88a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jma20a View Post
as for the amp i have that sucker bolted down with torx screws so that no one can grab a wrench and unbolt it.
i used steel screws with lock nuts so they got nice and rusty and also since they were locked they took 2 people quite a bit of time to remove.. also 2 of my screws ended up being over the exhaust heat shield so i had to undo it so i can get to them.. hides the bolts very nicely especially in the dark
07-18-2008 11:42 AM
Jma20a i found a nice mounting setup in my basement its for hanging very expensive pictures on a wall, so all i did was bolt it to the rear floor of the jeep and it take a special key to unlock it. it would take a few crow bars and a sledge hammer to try to break it free. as for the amp i have that sucker bolted down with torx screws so that no one can grab a wrench and unbolt it.
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