|06-23-2012 01:25 AM|
|BlackOpsJeep||So I did tests with the top and doors off and it is definately more sensitive which is good. However, if you park it next to alot of activity, it might pick it up and go off. I would park it away from the crowd so as to not having uneccessary movement setting it off constatly but not too far to make it isolated. Anyways, with the doors and top on, it didn't go off until I entered the Jeep. With them off, it went off once I got within about 7 feet or so of either side. About 5 feet from the back. It is pointed rearward to the front doesnt matter. The best part is knowing where the switch is and approaching from a different angle so I can disarm it before getting in. I'm pretty satisfied with it as a deterrent. Obviously it isn't a total solution but it will make someone think twice before trying to pillage.|
|06-15-2012 12:55 AM|
|jyp||Very cool! Thanks!|
|06-15-2012 12:39 AM|
|BlackOpsJeep||Due to all the rain lately in Georgia, I wasn't able to test my motion sensor mod with the top down and doors off. However, starting tomorrow, it will be sunny and clear. I will post the findings here in the next day or so. With the top on and doors unlocked, the motion sensor worked like a charm when I opened any door once armed. The great thing is the few seconds of delay when I open the door in order to turn it off. If it went off every time I opened a door, it would be pointless unless you mounted the switch outside like under a fender or chassis. In any case, the mounted red LED on the dash in front of the steering wheel blinks nicely and is itself probable of making the would-be intruder from opening the door.|
|06-11-2012 09:41 PM|
hahahaha, nice one.
|06-11-2012 03:20 PM|
|06-11-2012 12:56 PM|
Thanks for the write up. A great idea and instructions. However, as the owner of a Doberman, I would suggest purchasing a Poodle Motion Sensor instead. Maybe a Chihuahua Motion Sensor. Dobermans tend to sound off an alarm, and then hide, or wiggle a lot. Or pee.
|06-11-2012 11:26 AM|
|Jeeperz Creeperz||Excellent write up and pics.|
|06-11-2012 10:12 AM|
|jlr551cfd||Good work! Thanks!|
|06-11-2012 07:37 AM|
|krutj||Very cool project.... great documentation too...|
|06-11-2012 12:43 AM|
After that, I routed the rest of the wiring for the switch and mounted it with strong double-sided tape in a place known only to me. This is so I can flick it on and off at will. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and if you have any questions, let me know. I realize that this isn’t a total solution but for about $35 total costs, it is a very good deterrent nonetheless. Maybe it won’t faze a professional of crackhead, but the VERY HIGH PITCH scream coming from it will definitely make intruders think twice before continuing to lurk inside. It will go off for 2 MIN and then reset. You can hear this from a long way away too. I also did some preliminary testing to see what the sensitivity is like but I had doors on and top too. It went off as I hoped no matter what door I opened and went into. Best $35 I ever spent! Happy modding!
|06-11-2012 12:41 AM|
Now, after all of this is done, I took the included bracket for the alarm and decided upon a strong Velcro to attach it to the upper middle inside windshield so it points rearward. It can be tilted and works 60 degrees in every direction and out to 15 ft which is perfect for a Jeep. Then once I put the alarm back together and tested it, I snapped it into the bracket and ran the wires inside the trim (see pics). The trim just pulls back enough to shove it in and route it behind the dash. For the LED, I noticed the dash up top just pulls back enough to run wires to the spot in front of my steering wheel where I drilled a small hole big enough to shove the LED up through the underside. I also removed the one little screw under that storage bin on top of my dash to give me more wiggle room. I did however have to remove the adhesive little sticker on the LED so it would poke through higher in my dash. I just attached the Led on the underside with a hot glue gun. Perfect! (see pic). Then I snapped the dash back in and put screw back into storage bin area.
|06-11-2012 12:35 AM|
Here is where you determine how much wire you need based on how you want to run your wires later for install. I used about 15’ just in case I needed extra to work with. That is up to you but I based mine on routing wires from the top middle of the windshield across and down the pillar to behind the dash to wherever you want your switch mounted and hidden. In any case, the other end of this wire is to be stripped off and attached to the remote switch wires. Just make it red to red, and black to black using an electrical connector like the one shown or if you don’t have or want to use them, just utilize electrical tape. If you are using speaker wire, make sure you stay consistent with colors. I used gold as positive and silver as negative. It’s your call.
As for the LED, I wired it directly to the battery terminals of the alarm, again…red to positive, and black to negative. Those were also soldered on. This allows my LED to always stay on blinking, appearing as an armed security system, even if the motion sensor isn’t on. I could turn it off and on but LED’s are so miniscule in power draw that it will last quite awhile before I have to change out batteries.
Before I installed all of this into my Jeep, I decided to blend the alarm in better by painting it with plastidip since the housing was silver and is more noticeable. So the only thing not black was the sensor and light. I only painted the front though, not the sides or back since it sits in a bracket anyway and I will have to at some point have to replace the batteries again.
|06-11-2012 12:33 AM|
Next, remove the black wire from the negative battery terminal by using the solder iron. If you have no idea how to do this, google “soldering for dummies”. Not to insult anyone but I’d rather you know how to do this basic skill before attempting this mod. It is easy however. Anyways, when you press the soldering tip on the spot where the wire is connected, the solder should melt and you can pull the wire off. Easy. The positive one can stay on. In basic electronics, we are creating a loop basically by routing power to the remote switch FIRST, and then back to the board or the remote switch will not work.
Next, grab that Radio Shack switch that has the LED attached to it. Cut the LED off about halfway between where it ends at plastic box and itself. Basically you are cutting the wire in half so you can connect the LED later and have some wire left to connect in another spot. On the back is a single little screw to remove which allows the battery compartment to come off. We will not be using batteries in this switch since there are already batteries supplying power in the alarm. This will be the remote switch that you can hide anywhere you wish. I will not say where I hid mine but it is so small that you can hide it damn near anywhere. The purpose of this switch is to be able to turn it off and on rather than on the alarm itself. As I mentioned earlier, I removed the slider part of the alarm switch that attached to the switch on the inside. By removing the outside piece, it isn’t able to be touched if the alarm goes off by an intruder. The Doberman alarm has on the back, a switch for delay or instant alarm. I left it on delay which is 30 seconds. I will go over alarm operation later.
Back to the mod.
Once the cover of the remote switch is off, you will see that 2 AA batteries can go there but we won’t need any. Instead, all we need to do to complete the circuit back to the alarm circuit board is to make a simple jumper. This is also an easy solder job. Get a piece of wire long enough to connect to both the negative and positive terminals and connect them with solder (see pic). Then put the cover back on and screw in place.
To make the circuit from the alarm to the switch, this is where you need a bunch of wire, and patience. You will also need to drill two small holes into the back of the alarm plate (not the battery cover) to pass the wires through. Just drill a big enough hole but not much bigger than the diameter of the wies (see pic). Take a piece of wire, preferably red for positive and strip off one end, about ¼”. This will be soldered to the positive end of the alarm spot. This is the one I mentioned earlier not to remove. By the way, make sure there are no batteries inserted in alarm at this time. So the positive battery terminal of the alarm should have the factory one still attached and now you are also soldering the end of the red wire you just stripped off. Next, take another wire, preferably black and strip off the end of that one too. This one will get soldered onto the negative battery terminal of the alarm. The factory black wire should have already been removed from earlier and now the only thing attached to the negative terminal should be the new wire.
|06-11-2012 12:31 AM|
Best $35 alarm mod EVER!
So I wanted to do a fun and interesting project using a battery-powered motion sensor alarm I got at Home Depot called a Doberman to handle the would-be thieves when I have doors and top off or even when I just leave it unlocked which many of us do. This tutorial will walk you through how to do a simple setup using the Doberman motion sensor, a cheap remote switch, and flashing red LED which you can mount on the dash like regular alarms. Of course you can substitute any of these items with others if you wish. Anyone should be able to follow along with these instructions and have a great setup for only a little cash.
*disclaimer- I am not responsible for any mishaps you create in attempting this mod on your own Jeep or other vehicle. Proceed at your own risk.
In any case, this is so simple that no one should have a problem if they follow my instructions carefully. The following items should be on hand before starting:
· Battery-operated motion sensor (the Doberman was $19.99 at Home Depot)
· Remote switch (Radio Shack had one with flashing red LED for $3.89)
· Soldering Iron and solder
· Hot Glue gun or other adhesive (for LED)
· 25’+ Wire (should be small such as 14 gauge car audio wire or speaker wire)
· Electrical connectors and electrical tape
· Double-sided tape or Velcro
· 3 AA batteries (for alarm)
· Black paint or plastidip (optional)
· Tiny Philips screwdriver
· Drill with bits
· Wire strippers
First, I wanted the motion sensor to have a remote switch on it since I am permanently leaving the one on the alarm in ON position. Once the alarm is opened (shown later), you can remove the external slide switch so no one can turn it off from there, thus the remote switch. You will start by removing the the battery compartment cover on the back of the Doberman sensor. Then next to that is a screw to remove in order to remove the rest. The second panel should pry off easy but be careful not to pull hard or risk ripping wires from the board.
*the pix that appear here showing the wiring was from when I finished. I forgot to take some before I started. Sorry. Nevertheless, I will point out what to do.