|07-11-2012 05:54 PM|
|07-07-2012 09:10 AM|
|Vidder||best or worst thread-starter ever?|
|07-01-2012 08:26 AM|
|WeekenderATX||Been thinking about this too. Pics please!|
|07-01-2012 07:15 AM|
|YJkiddo||Zzz. Where the pics lok|
|07-01-2012 06:56 AM|
|Vidder||i can't believe we haven't seen pics yet!|
|06-28-2012 11:35 AM|
|baerbonesjones||pics please about to buy a kayak , and dont want to get a trailer|
|06-27-2012 04:44 PM|
|06-25-2012 11:59 PM|
|clarkkent||Pictures so I can go buy a kayak and do this haha|
|06-25-2012 04:17 PM|
|MustangWrangler||I'm in the same boat...no pun intended.|
|06-25-2012 04:13 PM|
|06-25-2012 04:00 PM|
Sorry guys, I've been on the water for a week!
I'm going out again in the next 48 hours. I will take detailed pics and post em.
I'd fully expect it to work on 13 footers because you're only adding a foot to the front and back, which will stretch the bungees a little but not intolerable to the handles.
|06-18-2012 08:15 AM|
|dama417||Thule makes what they call a "Goal post canoe carrier" goes into the trailer hitch receiver (I built my own for a fraction of the cost). The back of the canoe (or Kayak)sits on the "goal post" the front on top of the windshield with foam blocks. Nothing touches the Soft Top, or Hard Top, or no Top at all. It's hinged at the bottom so it can be dropped down to open the tail gate.|
|06-18-2012 08:11 AM|
|06-18-2012 07:37 AM|
|6rings||I saw a post where a guy had a rack installed over the soft top to haul camping supplies he said it didnt interfere with top installation may have had a frameless soft top?|
|06-18-2012 05:36 AM|
|06-18-2012 01:38 AM|
|06-18-2012 01:13 AM|
DIY soft top kayak transport for $20
So it took me 3 stress-inducing trips to the river and a half dozen in-and-outs at Dicks, Home Depot and Walmart to figure out the best DIY method to secure 2 11' yaks without 1) putting so much pressure on the handles that you rip them off and destroy your kayak and 2) having them fly off on the highway and killing someone. So I figured I would save someone else the stress and post what you need.
2 12' ratchet straps - the more heavy-duty the better. Dicks had these.
4 50" bungee cords - get the ones with the half-circle shape - they grab the bumper - the little ones won't. Walmart had these.
Total cost is about $20. I've only driven about 8 hours with this setup so far, but ive done sharp turns in the neighborhood and 75 mph on the highway - the yaks have not budged and the stress on the handles is no more than what you'd expect anchoring in moderate current. Also, the vibration is much less this way than my other attempts.
Lay both yaks side by side, bow towards headlights. You can lay the yaks face up or down, but face-up is a lot quieter, especially if you have no top on.
Open the driver and passenger door. One ratchet strap goes around the yaks about 1/3 from the front of yak. This front strap should meet right around the sun visors. Ratchet 2 goes 1/3 from the back of the yak and should meet at the rear-most point of the roll bar. If you have your side windows in, they will have to be unzipped to expose the rollbar. Tighten ratchet til yaks cease to move.
You have 4 bungees - this is your backup plan should a ratchet fail. Each will go on a kayak handle. Stretch and attach to bumper at 4 points.
Check every 25 miles or so to ensure everything is secure. Replace bungees when/if they lose elasticity.
That's it. If you choose a different method, just don't ratchet the handles. Old Town failed to repair the handle when my friend ratcheted too tight, and a kayak without handles has basically no value.