|06-30-2012 09:16 PM|
It probably rides bad because of your shocks. I've ridden in a few jeeps with RE lifts and it wasn't that great. As to the shaking at 4k rpm, well its a jeep and doesn't like to go that high LOL.
You dont need coilovers to have a great ride. Just Bilsteins or something of similar quality. As far as sway bars, the Currie Antirock is definitely the best/easiest solution.
|06-30-2012 07:41 PM|
|06-30-2012 07:20 PM|
Thank you guys so much for the responses! Just ordered the Daystar kit to replace the missing and cracked bushings all around, and going to pull the OPDA tomorrow.
Been having trouble deciding on an on-board air setup. I think I'm going to use this current suspension for now with some sort of sway-bar or sway-bar disconnect. Having trouble picking between the Currie Anti-Rock, JKS Switch-Blade and OffRoadOnly SwayLOC setups. Any suggestions?
Who would you guys recommend for on-board air? And in the long term, best coil-over setup? Would be nice to have hydraulic bump stops too.
|06-28-2012 09:28 AM|
|00tj2||The shake when revving past 3500rpm could be two things... One is that this engine really doesn't like revving that high but it will. The second is if you are getting some driveline vibes from the lift you have it will cause it. I get a slight vibe once I get around 3-3500rpm so I keep it under that until I get my SYE on. I know, not the best thing in the world but I've only replaced one rear ujoint in the last 132K.|
|06-28-2012 07:40 AM|
There is a oil cup mod that has proven to work, also there is a small company that is promising a revised unit soon. I would pull yours soon to see how it looks, chances are you will need to or should replace the current one...personally I would just go ahead and get a new unit now (it can be purchased online for under $130). If you do the oil cup mod ( or pay for one of the memeber of the other forum to do it for you) you shouldnt have any issues at all. The reason I would check on it right away is that all 05-06s could have the problem or do have the problem...some run for 100,000+ miles with no sign...some run for 10,000 miles...some get a warning, a few do not...if you dont check it and its a problem... and you are one of the unlucky ones, your engine will be toast...its a long shot in my opinion, however it is so easy to check that it would be silly not to......Nice Rig and welcome to the LJ club!!
|06-27-2012 11:37 PM|
That is a first for me, tearing rear BL blocks out. No clue
2006 TJ Rubicon
|06-27-2012 08:42 PM|
|06-27-2012 06:01 PM|
Daystar Body Mounts
Stock Body Mount Size
You will need to DISCONNECT your front swaybar utizing a Swaybar Disconnect system. I like the SKYJACKER SWAYLOCK design.
This is my '03 Rubicon with the swaybar disconnected in Ocotillo Wells SVRA.
This is my '03 Rubicon (me driving) crawling up the back of STOLEN SUPRA TURBO on blocks.
For the past 9 years, I have been running a 4" Pro-Comp Stage 1 short-arm lift kit w/MX-6 shocks. I hope to run a 6" long-arm suspension in the next couple of years.
Your tire/wheel combo is not necessarily a bad one. I spoke with a Falken representative at the Off Road Expo in Pomona, CA in October, and he told me that the Falken doesn't have "THE BEST TRACTION, but it also doesn't have THE WORST TRACTION." Air your tires down to 12 p.s.i. on the dirt and rock trails, and see if you like their performance. You will want to install an on-board air system.
Me getting ready for a Baja 4WD run
You don't have to run the biggest, most expensive suspension to have a good time with your Jeep. Take your time and get to see these suspensions working on the trail - from there, you will gain an idea on your likes and dislikes.
My Rubicon base camp on the beach in Baja, Mexico.
|06-27-2012 03:14 PM|
Is there an improved aftermarket version, or a modification that has proved successful?
|06-27-2012 02:51 PM|
|TJspeed||You have a body lift. I'm guessing its a 1.25". You need the factory mount "what's on the passenger side." and a body lift spacer.|
|06-27-2012 02:37 PM|
Is this the frame component you are looking for?
Frame and Components
|06-27-2012 02:27 PM|
|JustinCHorst||If you arent aware of it...and its not a big deal as long as your are....read up extensivly on the OPDA issue and make sure that is one of our first mods.|
|06-27-2012 01:34 PM|
New 05 LJ Rubi here, plus some tech questions.
Hello all. I am new here and new to the Jeep club. I've picked up my first Jeep about 4 weeks ago, a 2005 Wrangler Unlimited with Rubicon package and about 50,000 miles.
I think I have figured out the mods so far, a Rubicon Express economy lift, JKS engine/body spacing kit, Warn 9000i winch and some crappy bumper lights.
I have a few questions, as I am used to the high-performance crowd, and I work with different mechanical systems frequently.
First off, does anyone know where I can get these back two spacers and bolts?
Apparently the bolts sheared, and the pucks popped out. Does anyone have some info on why this would happen?
Secondly, while I was checking the motor live data stream with a nice scan tool, I noticed the throttle blade only opens up to 74% at full throttle. The calculated engine load still reads 100%, but the throttle blade shows 74%. Is that normal? I'm not used to a vehicle this slow.
Also, at about 4K RPM the motor starts to shake pretty hard and sound coarse. It is stock with fresh plugs gapped at .030-.035, air filter and fresh oil/oil filter. For this reason I usually only rev it to about 3500 when WOT. Will the 505Performance Roller Rockers help with some of the coarseness? Are JBA headers worth it? I don't care about emissions.
I originally had an issue with the rear locker not locking. The rear pump was working fine, inlet unclogged, pressure on the line. I popped the rear diff cover off to take a look and sure enough, the line came off from the inside nipple. Strange huh? All is good there now though, and the front diff has fresh fluid too.
Another question, why does this suspension feel so bad? I ride on 33x12.5R15 Rocky Mountain ATs at 25psi, and sometimes this Jeep feels like it is going to rattle apart. I also get lots of wheelhop in the sand, bad enough to back off of the throttle, especially in 4-hi. Maybe I should just remove my swaybars? Looks like rear is a lot more flexible based on these pictures I took:
I also get a wobble from the steering wheel from only 40-50MPH, and I looked over the suspension system once, but need to do it again in more detail. I also greased all the Zerk fittings.
So I really hate the suspension, but I love the crazy places this Jeep has gotten me through. I want to go all out. Who should I buy a good coil-over setup from for Sand-Dunes/beaches? What about sways? So far I have looked at Rock Krawler and GenRight. What about wheel/tire combo?
Thank you guys for all your help!