|12-29-2011 09:41 AM|
|bkelly911||My jeep stops fine... I just want my parking brake to actually work and I want it to be easier to change the pads! I hate doing drums!!|
|01-14-2009 01:37 PM|
|chesterspl||I agree with you guys I was just kindof talking quick and not really explaining, to many thoughts and my fingers won't move fast enough. I just think with better pads and better rotors, may it just be new OEM or whatever the case that it would make great improvement. I don't think changing the rears to rotors is cost effective|
|01-13-2009 10:04 PM|
They were originally designed to help with a problem called "off-gassing" where earlier pad formulations would emit gas when they got red hot during racing. The drilled holes and slots would help get rid of the gasses for better braking. Newer pad formulations don't off-gas so the few racers use such rotors any more.
You're really better off, where a Jeep is concerned at least, with an all cast vented rotor like a Centric Premium. Combined with EBC Yellow Pads, the braking with that combination will be so good it will be scary until you get used to it.
|01-13-2009 09:05 PM|
|slf41002||That is not really all that,,well it is just false.Slotted and cross drilled rotors will do nothing for basic driving.You are better off with an OE style rotor and softer compound pads than with Euro style rotors and hard metalic pads.Not calling you out or anything just stating a fact that I am sure will be backed by many more on here.|
|01-13-2009 05:01 PM|
|chesterspl||Most of your braking is done with the front wheels, something like 70%. Just get some beefed'(slotted,crossed drilled whatever tickles your fancy) up front rotors and run premium pads and you will notice way more improvement than putting disc on the back.|
|01-13-2009 04:27 PM|
i found ur post jerry haha
|01-13-2009 04:20 PM|
Sometimes we shoot ourselves in the foot before we even start.
If you have "Lifetime" linings or the supposedly "good" linings, they may just be too hard. They make them super hard to last that lifetime, but they don't stop very well.
Try the cheapie linings and pads, they are soft, they grip, THEY STOP! They'll last almost as long as the "good" junk too. You may be happy with it without expensive mods.
Seems that brake mfgrs have forgotten that brakes are a friction device.
|01-13-2009 03:41 PM|
At the slow speed used to back a boat/jetski trailer down a launching ramp, having disks in the rear isn't going to help much at all, if any. The reason the front brakes do so much more braking in the forward direction is because of weight transfer that is much greater at normal driving speeds which just isn't there when on a boat ramp.
Having owned a half-dozen boats and a jetski over the years, I know of the braking issues you can have on a launching ramp, not to mention the algae/moss making it even slicker. But I wouldn't convert the rear to disk primarily in hopes of better launching ramp braking.
|01-13-2009 03:21 PM|
braking in reverse
i do a lot of backing down steep inclines to launch jet skis with my YJ and it seems to reason that when in reverse the back brakes become the front and better braking could be expected with a rear conversion to disc. any thoughts?
|08-06-2008 10:11 AM|
The OE power brake system can actually provide more power than the OE brake calipers, pads, and pistons can handle so they all warp slightly under the pressure. That's the biggest problem with the OE brakes and big tires, the fact the pads don't maintain good contact with the rotors under hard braking because of that warping/twisting. That's why the Vanco kit went to a dual piston caliper to spread the force over a larger area of the brake pads, and a stiffened/strengthened caliper assembly to prevent it from bending/twisting during hard braking. That's how the Vanco kit gets its added braking force, by utilizing the OE brake fluid's already sufficient pressure more effectively.
|08-06-2008 07:25 AM|
|08-06-2008 06:47 AM|
|debruins||ive found that i lock my stock brakes up when braking with my BFG M/T's i think they just skid wicked easily, so remember even if your brakes are super strong and it doesn't help if they just lock up and you skid, what ive found is my brakes are more than adequate and i would personally spend the money on getting two sets of tires one for on road handling and one for off road|
|08-05-2008 09:14 PM|
|slf41002||Hey Jerry I have a question!!! Do you have to use the Hydroboost brake booster with the Vanco brake setup?Cause then you probably have to get a higher volume/pressure power steering pump???If this is the case you could have up to 2 grand in your front brakes alone!!! WOW|
|08-05-2008 09:02 PM|
Pennies I would be a while with quarters or half dollars cause the dollars my kids or my Jeep one already has them all It is a nice setup and for those new out there or have not seen the Vanco setup here are a few links.
|08-05-2008 08:45 PM|
|08-05-2008 08:18 PM|
|slf41002||I have looked at the Vanco setup also but not feasible right now!!!!|
|08-05-2008 08:16 PM|
|slf41002||Yeah Jerry I have talked to a couple other people that said they were expecting a lot better brakeing distance and could barely tell a difference afterwards.I just personally do not like drum brakes.That and any brakeing improvement (even the smallest amount)would be welcome when pulling a trailer.Also I know of a totaled 99 grand cherokee so the parts will be almost free.So I figure I may as well!!!!|
|08-05-2008 06:53 PM|
If you decide to go ahead with the conversion, just realize that while it will make maintenance a lot easier, you won't gain any braking performance. In other words, if your present rear drums are working properly, you won't see any better braking or shorter stopping distances after converting to rear disks. On the rear, drums are actually a very good choice so long as you don't get into mud.
I've done the rear drum to disk conversion for other reasons and can verify that I obtained the expected zero braking improvement. None, nada.
To improve your braking, work on the front brakes where 80-90% of all the braking force comes from. Slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors won't help. Some pads like the EBC Yellow Pads will help, but if you need/want dramatically better braking, about the only way to get it is with Vanco's Big Brake kit. It replaces the single-piston calipers with dual piston calipers, plus it replaces the knuckles that flex under hard braking with reinforced knuckles that help the calipers stay where they should under hard braking.
After going to 35" tires, my braking was very marginal (upgraded front brake pads, all cast ventilated rotors, rear disks)... enough that it worried me. Since installing the Vanco kit, I can lock up my front brakes if I need to they're that good.
|08-05-2008 06:19 PM|
|08-01-2008 03:36 PM|
|08-01-2008 01:49 PM|
|08-01-2008 01:48 PM|
|08-01-2008 01:42 PM|
|08-01-2008 01:26 PM|
|jeepcop1||I've got an 01 sport with D35c. Is it just a direct swap or is there some modification needed to make it work? I can't stand my rear drums!|
|08-01-2008 12:04 PM|
|nicolas-eric||Does that also work on a D44 rear axle?|
|08-01-2008 11:13 AM|
|MoSo||Do you have to swap out the master cylinder? What does the swap do to the brake bias?|
|08-01-2008 11:01 AM|
|slf41002||Yes you can use the backing plate,rotors,calipers and hoses from I think 99-02 Jeep Cherokee.I could be wrong on the years here but any Jeep cherokee that has rear disk brakes will work i think.So off to the bone yard.|
|08-01-2008 10:56 AM|
Drum brake mod?
Is there a common swap that would replace the rear drum brakes with discs on a 98 Sport? I don't particularly want to have to replace everything in the rear end to do it, I'd just like better brakes.