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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-24-2013 10:24 PM
JKJeepit Thanks for the reply..
sounds exactly what I'm doing with my Jeep... or at least my old 2DR..
Friday I went over to the dealer and talked to the service manager about the warranty topic... basically all a mopar lift (or other item) does is give them a little more leverage when dealing with the factory reps to get things covered.. so for example if you do a 4" mopar lift and your drive shaft breaks,,, it most likely will not be covered... just lift if it was a RK, TF, AEV, or other lift....

I am looking at the Rock Krawler lifts.. also..
cheers


Quote:
Originally Posted by Off Pavement View Post
I'm running the lift with straps, for my wheelin' in Nevada, I see no need for more articulation. While this Jeep is used off road on difficult trails almost exclusively, it isn't a hard core rock rig. I've not run into any trails yet that I wanted more articulation.

As far as your Mopar warranty, this is a controversial topic. Some dealers have told their customers that using the Mopar lifts will not void their warranty. True, but neither will any of the other lifts out there I'm quite certain. If you read the fine print of warranties, it makes it pretty clear that aftermarket parts are not covered, but unless they are proven to be the cause of a warranty related failure, you should be covered. You can read plenty around about dealers and warranty work when someone modifies their vehicle. It sounds like it can get pretty messy with plenty of denied claims no matter what lift brand you choose, but with that said, at over 14K miles, I've got not complaints.
06-24-2013 09:14 PM
Off Pavement I'm running the lift with straps, for my wheelin' in Nevada, I see no need for more articulation. While this Jeep is used off road on difficult trails almost exclusively, it isn't a hard core rock rig. I've not run into any trails yet that I wanted more articulation.

As far as your Mopar warranty, this is a controversial topic. Some dealers have told their customers that using the Mopar lifts will not void their warranty. True, but neither will any of the other lifts out there I'm quite certain. If you read the fine print of warranties, it makes it pretty clear that aftermarket parts are not covered, but unless they are proven to be the cause of a warranty related failure, you should be covered. You can read plenty around about dealers and warranty work when someone modifies their vehicle. It sounds like it can get pretty messy with plenty of denied claims no matter what lift brand you choose, but with that said, at over 14K miles, I've got not complaints.
06-20-2013 10:08 PM
JKJeepit off pavement and CULR8,
you guys running this lift with the limit straps as supplied?... etc.
if you are, do you find you get enough articulation with the limit straps.?.. you don't see many using them... not that they don't have there purpose..

looking at this lift for $2200... the fox shocks and speed bumps are probably aren't items I need but thinking of mopar for warranty...


thanks
06-20-2013 10:34 AM
CUL8R I have to agree with Off Pavement. I've had this lift on for 15 months (only about 11k miles so far) on my 12 JKUR with no problems. Love it on and offroad. Been to Moab 3 times so far, and have done lots of trails here in Colorado. We've done mostly rock crawling, but the lift really seems to excel in fast twisty and bouncy offroad or dirt road sections.

Jim
06-18-2013 08:27 AM
Off Pavement 14K on my '13 and still lovin' the Mopar Stage 3... not a single issue. With 35s, the lift worked flawlessly. I recently went to 37s that required rear pinch seam trimming, trimming of my Bushwacker flat flairs, and an adjustable front trac bar to better center the front axle. Off road performance has been excellent, going down the road is too. The lift is turning out to be money well spent as far as I'm concerned.
06-17-2013 09:18 PM
JKJeepit any more reviews on this lift after having it on for a year.... etc
thanks
07-04-2012 10:37 AM
rundm Those are cool pics. I hope to have everything lined up before may of next yr so we can do Palo Dura.
07-04-2012 10:27 AM
MarineHawk
Quote:
Originally Posted by snochick View Post
Mine is 4". That wasn't by choice though. 4" is overkill for 35's ...
I've read that on here many times, but it's only true for some, depending on what you want to do.
You don't need a 4" to fit 35s on there, but it's not overkill if you do.

I have a 4" lift and 35s, and still rub just a little occasionally at full compression with sway-bars discoed. The higher the lift, the more articulation and clearance. My buddy with whom I go off-roading has two trail-only rigs. On this YJ, he has only 33s, but over least 9" of lift. Because of that, he can go some places either more easily than I or places I can't:





You don't need monster tires as much as you need clearance. My friend is going to put some 37s or 38s on there when he changes a few things out, but, for what I like to do, 4" is not overkill, but underkill, with 35s.

I only wouldn't go past a 6" lift because mine's still my DD for now.
07-04-2012 10:19 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by rundm
Also, anyone have any experience with the clayton offroad set up? Havn't heard anything about them in this thread
Clayton is a good company from what I see.

Basic $1099.00
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/319


Better $2099.00
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/319
But still doesn't address highsteer or shocks which can be added **

The 4 door basic kit addresses the front pinion/caster angle only. the rear is ok on a 4 door. The 2 door kit adds rear upper ca's.


(Thinking)
If you did the basic kit, add EVO/Polly steering correction ($300) and shocks, you have a pretty decent lift for under $2k

Small print (**)
"Front CV driveshaft highly recommended on Automatics (Tom Woods Driveshafts)
Optional high steer kit requires welding"
07-04-2012 09:22 AM
rundm Also, anyone have any experience with the clayton offroad set up? Havn't heard anything about them in this thread
07-03-2012 10:31 PM
rundm Talked with Jason at Krawl off road about the rk 2.5 pro aluminum set up and it sounds pretty sweet. According to him, it would take care of all the things that I am wanting and not wanting like being able to run the 35s and not having to change out drive shafts and stuff. That along with packaging up some ace rock guards, I might have to jump on it. Still not sure yet but it is coming along. Gotta come up with the ducks. Tires arn't here yet anyways so don't know how long they are gonna take.
07-03-2012 07:12 PM
snochick
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHerz
2 1/2" inches on the hubby's ride or more? I can't remember.
Your Mopar is the 4" kit right?
Hubby's kit is 3". Mine is 4". That wasn't by choice though. 4" is overkill for 35's but the dealer at least did all the necessary extras meh is all good. 3" with 35's is about as far as you can go without spending a small fortune. But even then don't go cheap. You'd regret it.
07-03-2012 06:10 PM
JeepHerz I've only lost small chunks of hair and a little sanity since I decided to lift my JK. Simple is not so simple.
07-03-2012 05:52 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by rundm
I am/was wanting to stay between 2.5-3inches or so. Was hoping not to have to buy diff or upgraded drive shafts. Just wanted to get something with extra lift for bigger tires that is not real complicated so I could get out and wheel some. Had no idea it was this involved. One of the reasons i was interested in mopar was because i wouldn't/shouldn't need to adjust stuff, or so I thought. Did not want to have to weld on brackets or stuff like that. Mainly just wanted bolt up. Thought itvwould be easier than stuff that could come loose. RG
You my friend just experienced lift overload
07-03-2012 04:52 PM
rundm I am/was wanting to stay between 2.5-3inches or so. Was hoping not to have to buy diff or upgraded drive shafts. Just wanted to get something with extra lift for bigger tires that is not real complicated so I could get out and wheel some. Had no idea it was this involved. One of the reasons i was interested in mopar was because i wouldn't/shouldn't need to adjust stuff, or so I thought. Did not want to have to weld on brackets or stuff like that. Mainly just wanted bolt up. Thought itvwould be easier than stuff that could come loose. RG
07-03-2012 04:43 PM
JeepHerz 2 1/2" inches on the hubby's ride or more? I can't remember.
Your Mopar is the 4" kit right?
07-03-2012 04:30 PM
snochick
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2
Lol, noooo!

She wasn't happy with how it felt off road. Meaning, when she would go over bumps it was way to rough. Which in my opinion is something all people aren't really used too when they first start out. Especially, if you're not aired down/ disconnected.
I was aired down and disconnected. And I've been wheeling for going on about 15 years now. I actually learned to drive my dads log skidder before I knew how to drive a car. I was also the only female entrant at the very last jeep fest in Leeds/Bradford 11 years ago. Pics of the mud bird were still on the site last I checked if it's still even an operational website.

So trust me when I'm comparing our jeeps I'm just being picky. I'm pretty OCD with how my rig goes. Right now his out does mine a bit and hubby will be the first to tell ya just how competitive I get with him on that stuff. Mine just rides rougher than his does. It's not a huge difference but I can definitely fine tune a line easier in his than I can in mine. I'll get it where I want it though. She's still new.

For the cost difference though, go with the teraflex. My mopar kit does fine but the teraflex was better bang for the buck.
07-03-2012 03:36 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHerz
Newb (again)- but I don't have any steering jerk nor does the Jeep change direction. My butt moves- not the Jeep. Just harder over freeway bumps than stock. Plus I don't have any padding so maybe I am sensitive. LOL. Is this still considered "bumpsteer"? Its the only issue I have and its totally tolerable, I just expected "better" than stock overall- freeway, road & trail. Plus women are never happy.
The OP plans on being 98% on-road I believe.
What you running for shocks?
07-03-2012 03:32 PM
pluke the 2 well, marine hawk is somewhat right.

the first thing to do is make sure your axles are centered, so if they aren't you need to buy adjustable trackbars. second thing to do is to get front lower control arms, unless you're already at normal caster 4-6*, and get back normal caster. the third thing to do is to get the draglink flip kit installed which will eliminate bumpsteer more than any of the other components. those other components are not for bump steer.

so you may have your axles centered, and your caster might be ok, but when you hit a bump and the steering wheel moves under your control, that's all bump steer and can be eliminated by doing a flip with the draglink and raising your trackbar up 3" but this also has to mirror the rear or your front and rear will move on different axis.....
07-03-2012 03:21 PM
JeepHerz Newb (again)- but I don't have any steering jerk nor does the Jeep change direction. My butt moves- not the Jeep. Just harder over freeway bumps than stock. Plus I don't have any padding so maybe I am sensitive. LOL. Is this still considered "bumpsteer"? Its the only issue I have and its totally tolerable, I just expected "better" than stock overall- freeway, road & trail. Plus women are never happy.
The OP plans on being 98% on-road I believe.
07-03-2012 02:55 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarineHawk

Cool. I guess that's the contraption at the top of the pic in the link.
Lol

Now I wish I could go back and just do the whole kitten caboodle.
Save money in the long run

That RK lift is fantastic. All 8 arms plus the steering correction. I'm happy with my $300 Rancho 9000's shocks
07-03-2012 02:50 PM
MarineHawk
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post




Yep,,, the drag link is adjustable I believe which is part the the "included" high steer kit
Cool. I guess that's the contraption at the top of the pic in the link.
07-03-2012 01:52 PM
kjeeper10

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarineHawk

Agree kjeeper.

I’m not sure which one you linked, but I was just looking at their lifts, and this Rock Krawler one (http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/cat...p?r_itemID=364, which is listed at only $2,200 here http://www.knowwhere2jeep.com/rock-k...el-system.html) has:

(2) long travel progressive rate front coil springs, double adjustable front track bar made from 1.5” solid alloy steel, precision welded front track bar relocation bracket, (1) front track bar bracket support with stabilizer relocation hole,(2) high clearance- adjustable front lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel, (2) high misalignment – adjustable front upper control arms made from 1.25” solid alloy steel, adjustable front sway bar disconnects, H.D. drag link assembly, (2) long travel linear rear coil springs, double adjustable rear track bar made from 1.5” solid alloy steel, precision welded rear track bar relocation bracket made from ╝” thick laser cut steel,(2) high clearance-adjustable rear lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel, (2) high misalignment – double adjustable rear upper control arms made from 1.25” solid alloy steel, rear extended sway bar links, rear coil spring degree wedges, long travel stainless steel brakes front and rear, hardware and detailed instructions.
http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/cat...p?r_itemID=364

That looks like a pretty good deal to me. IMO, you’d also want to get a good front DS, a steering stabilizer, and an adjustable drag link (I don’t think the one described above is adjustable; maybe that’s not a big deal). And of course, you’ll need bump-stops and shocks, which don’t appear included above.

A Synergy kit probably is maybe about 10%-20% more, but with the adjustable draglink and bump-stops: http://www.eadoffroad.com/synergy-su...-4.5-inch-lift (if you’re looking at that, make sure you get the adjustable LCAs and trackbars options). The adjustable Synergy components also adjust without removing them, which can make it easier to keep your Jeep in perfect alignment Synergy’s my favorite, but the RK stuff looks pretty good.

Either one (among others) is going to be vastly superior to the Mopar, fixed-arm kits. I can't even tell from the various descriptions of the Mopar stage 3 if it even has a replacement draglink or track bars, much less adjustable ones. It doesn't look like it. If so, run away! Seriously, compared to the two linked above, you're getting nothing but headaches instead of a nicely alligned lift--and paying just as much or more.
Yep,,, the drag link is adjustable I believe which is part the the "included" high steer kit
07-03-2012 01:27 PM
rundm Kjeeper10, I am still looking at the RK 3.5 lifts that you sent to me. Havn't made up my mind on anything yet. Thanks for all the input. RG
07-03-2012 01:19 PM
MarineHawk
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
X2

I linked him one of the RK 3.5 lifts which includes everything except Bumpstops and shocks.
My opinion was the fox res shocks and speed bumps are complete overkill anyways.

If driveshafts are in his plans the M3 lift is def not for him. Lacks adjustability and at 3" - 4" is a must for a JK.
Agree kjeeper.

I’m not sure which one you linked, but I was just looking at their lifts, and this Rock Krawler one (http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=364, which is listed at only $2,200 here http://www.knowwhere2jeep.com/rock-krawler-jk-3-5-max-travel-system.html) has:

(2) long travel progressive rate front coil springs, double adjustable front track bar made from 1.5” solid alloy steel, precision welded front track bar relocation bracket, (1) front track bar bracket support with stabilizer relocation hole,(2) high clearance- adjustable front lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel, (2) high misalignment – adjustable front upper control arms made from 1.25” solid alloy steel, adjustable front sway bar disconnects, H.D. drag link assembly, (2) long travel linear rear coil springs, double adjustable rear track bar made from 1.5” solid alloy steel, precision welded rear track bar relocation bracket made from ╝” thick laser cut steel,(2) high clearance-adjustable rear lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel, (2) high misalignment – double adjustable rear upper control arms made from 1.25” solid alloy steel, rear extended sway bar links, rear coil spring degree wedges, long travel stainless steel brakes front and rear, hardware and detailed instructions.
http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=364

That looks like a pretty good deal to me. IMO, you’d also want to get a good front DS, a steering stabilizer, and an adjustable drag link (I don’t think the one described above is adjustable; maybe that’s not a big deal). And of course, you’ll need bump-stops and shocks, which don’t appear included above.

A Synergy kit probably is maybe about 10%-20% more, but with the adjustable draglink and bump-stops: http://www.eadoffroad.com/synergy-suspension-ppm-8023-30-synergy-jeep-jk-stage-3-suspension-system-3.0-inch-4.5-inch-lift (if you’re looking at that, make sure you get the adjustable LCAs and trackbars options). The adjustable Synergy components also adjust without removing them, which can make it easier to keep your Jeep in perfect alignment Synergy’s my favorite, but the RK stuff looks pretty good.

Either one (among others) is going to be vastly superior to the Mopar, fixed-arm kits. I can't even tell from the various descriptions of the Mopar stage 3 if it even has a replacement draglink or track bars, much less adjustable ones. It doesn't look like it. If so, run away! Seriously, compared to the two linked above, you're getting nothing but headaches instead of a nicely alligned lift--and paying just as much or more.
07-03-2012 11:16 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarineHawk
Rundm, what I read above is amplifying the concerns I expressed in my PMs. It would be unwise IMO to spend that kind of money without getting adjustable CAs, trackbar (with the correct-geometry brackets), and draglink if you're going over 3" up.

You should check your alligment. When I went from fixed LCAs (with a max caster of about 2 degrees) to adjustable LCAs (which allowed a 5.25 degree caster) (along with the adjustable flipped drag link and trackbars) my ride went from terrible to awesome immediately. Here's my progression: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/pro...ml#post2511795

Messing with your tires to get a geometrically-poor front suspension (with a caster that's too low) to feel less bad and jerky, is like putting a bandaid on a compound fracture. I run my 35s at 38 psi, and it glides right over highway bumps and ruts like a nice sedan. It was terrible before I got the correct, adjustable front-end components --- whatever psi I put in my tires. KM2s are great tires and are not your problem.

rundm, it's your money, but you can get a lift with adjustable compoonents that won't make you hate your new ride (as I did mine for a while) I think for less than the Mopar, fixed-component stuff.
X2

I linked him one of the RK 3.5 lifts which includes everything except Bumpstops and shocks.
My opinion was the fox res shocks and speed bumps are complete overkill anyways.

If driveshafts are in his plans the M3 lift is def not for him. Lacks adjustability and at 3" - 4" is a must for a JK.
07-03-2012 11:03 AM
MarineHawk Rundm, what I read above is amplifying the concerns I expressed in my PMs. It would be unwise IMO to spend that kind of money without getting adjustable CAs, trackbar (with the correct-geometry brackets), and draglink if you're going over 3" up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtguy View Post
i saw a thread from a member who put on this kit and snochick replied to it saying she had the same kit on her '12 and it was ok but she was going to be changing out...her hubby has a different kit on his '11 that she said was a softer ride and handled much better offroad. don't know the details though....you can probably do better for the money I'm sure....hopefully she will chime in here and give first hand insight..
Quote:
Originally Posted by CUL8R View Post
Had mine since late March. Used it in Moab in April. Also used it to pull an offroad popup trailer. I like it a lot. It does seem quite sensative to steering inputs onroad until you get used to it.
You should check your alligment. When I went from fixed LCAs (with a max caster of about 2 degrees) to adjustable LCAs (which allowed a 5.25 degree caster) (along with the adjustable flipped drag link and trackbars) my ride went from terrible to awesome immediately. Here's my progression: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/pro...ml#post2511795

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
I think my new KM2s are also a big part of the ride issue- I may sell them.
Messing with your tires to get a geometrically-poor front suspension (with a caster that's too low) to feel less bad and jerky, is like putting a bandaid on a compound fracture. I run my 35s at 38 psi, and it glides right over highway bumps and ruts like a nice sedan. It was terrible before I got the correct, adjustable front-end components --- whatever psi I put in my tires. KM2s are great tires and are not your problem.

rundm, it's your money, but you can get a lift with adjustable compoonents that won't make you hate your new ride (as I did mine for a while) I think for less than the Mopar, fixed-component stuff.
07-02-2012 06:00 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2

It's called "Bump-Steer" and I had ALOT of it at 3" of height. Now that i'm over 4" of lift, this was absolutely necessary and should be one of the first modifications done when going over 3" of lift.

EVO: Suspension/Steering, EVO MFG JK Draglink Flip Kit

in addition to this, you should also have a rear track bar bracket installed...

JK Wrangler Rear Trackbar Bracket (for 2-6" lift) | TeraFlex Suspensions

helped cure about every suspension irritation i had...


I find lowering my tire pressure to 26-28 psi it's worse on road. I feel every bump. More contact patch?

32 psi and my shocks tuned down, my ride is pretty good. Well except for the wobbles/Bumpsteer I hope the highsteer fixes

I was looking at the poly kit and RK kits today. Poly is BO'd on their drag link flip and the RK is a more complete which included a track bar which I don't need. Plus the bracket is weld on.

Got to look into the EVO kit
07-02-2012 05:33 PM
JeepHerz We have the rear bracket. I guess the front is Stage 2. Or 2.5. Thanks!
07-02-2012 04:55 PM
pluke the 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
for example the expansion joints on the freeway are really noticeable.

It's called "Bump-Steer" and I had ALOT of it at 3" of height. Now that i'm over 4" of lift, this was absolutely necessary and should be one of the first modifications done when going over 3" of lift.

EVO: Suspension/Steering, EVO MFG JK Draglink Flip Kit

in addition to this, you should also have a rear track bar bracket installed...

JK Wrangler Rear Trackbar Bracket (for 2-6" lift) | TeraFlex Suspensions

helped cure about every suspension irritation i had...
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