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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-10-2014 08:49 PM
fattirewilly 3 extra liters got me roughly 300 hp, 300 tq
01-10-2014 08:09 PM
causestosin Bosch 4 hole injectors gave me about 3 mpg.
07-14-2012 02:10 PM
tjblackhills I got my 99 tj very poor power lots of down shifting, so I WENT WITH A hesco high flow throttle body, k&n perfommance air intake and edge chip and it made alot of differance, hills I shifted down on before now go over in fifth. Great throttle responce was way better. Running 31s with stock gearing, running bigger tires takes lots of power. It's not a 327 but alot better then it was.
07-12-2012 09:10 PM
Gunner Pics or vids POR FAVOR
07-12-2012 08:39 PM
Fundahl
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
Hey I just looked You got an AWD Mustang. Wonder what a Jeep loses in 4 wheel hi compared to 2 wheel high?
I can find out.

We are running the Ford Dyno event at AirVenture 2012 so I can't do it this weekend. We just repainted it and are gonna polish on Saturday.

I plan on running a Borg Warner EFR 6258 (Newest turbo tech, internal waste-gate and integrated bypass valve) on stock internals for now. Paired with 505 Roller Rockers and universal turbo kit, JBA header and custom turbo-back, of course.

I found someone that will do the flash tunes, and I can load them and datalog with the DiaboSport InTune.
07-12-2012 04:52 PM
Gunner Hey I just looked You got an AWD Mustang. Wonder what a Jeep loses in 4 wheel hi compared to 2 wheel high?
07-12-2012 04:48 PM
Gunner Mustang Dynos ROCK
Here is a torquer from 505.
JP magazine DEC 2009
07-12-2012 04:38 PM
Fundahl
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
One thing I would love to see is a dyno done on 505's roller rockers. The extra lift and 2 degrees of duration just might show some low and mid range boost. But even that would be minimal. Chad Golens stroker motors will work in our power ranges. It just costs bucks to improve on perfection. What else crawls with a 4.0. We are optimized to go slow and they do that great. It's like trying to get a Budwiser Clysdale and run it in the Kentucky Derby.
If someone can convince 505 to send me a set I would gladly publicly document the results on here and other forums using our Mustang Dynamometer to trace an accurate wheel horsepower and torque graph. Really the only true way to show it's worth.
07-12-2012 03:07 PM
Gunner One thing I would love to see is a dyno done on 505's roller rockers. The extra lift and 2 degrees of duration just might show some low and mid range boost. But even that would be minimal. Chad Golens stroker motors will work in our power ranges. It just costs bucks to improve on perfection. What else crawls with a 4.0. We are optimized to go slow and they do that great. It's like trying to get a Budwiser Clysdale and run it in the Kentucky Derby.
07-12-2012 12:18 AM
Derp Step one. Get rid of 3.07's (I need to.)
07-11-2012 09:32 PM
The Green Machine
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryJeepGuy View Post
What products did you buy?
intake, header, muffler, and throttle body spacer.
07-09-2012 04:20 PM
BurlySoldier
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShakaZulu8402 View Post
Drop in a golen stroker 4.6. Don't waste your money on the little stuff it won't do anything.
Agreed. I'm going stroker as soon as I get the coin.
07-09-2012 03:27 PM
InvertChaos
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbensor

I shift between 2 an 4k depending on how fast (ha ha) I am trying to get up to speed.
Yep me too. I'll wind it out to 4k in 3rd gear getting up to speed on the entrance ramp on the highway.
07-09-2012 03:01 PM
tbensor
Quote:
Originally Posted by InvertChaos View Post
This guy right here. I try to keep it between 2-3k if i can. Under 25mph it doesn't matter enough because of my gearing though. So cruising at 25mph I'm at 1800rpm, if i have to climb a hill and hear it lug, I down shift to 2nd. At 45mph I'm at 2100rpm, 60mph I'm at 2200rpm. The engine is in its power band within that range.

I shift between 2 an 4k depending on how fast (ha ha) I am trying to get up to speed.
07-09-2012 02:34 PM
Jeeperjoe My jeep rarely ever sees 3000 rpm. Only when getting on the highway or passing people. I have a 5 speed. When I'm maintaining speed around town I stay at about 1500 rpm. On the highway I'm at 2000 rpm at 70 mph. Is keeping low rpms bad?
07-08-2012 07:58 PM
Olephriam1 I guess it depends on what kind of power increase you are looking for. I have 4.10 gears in my jeep and it is great off road. It is a little weak going up the 10,000 ft mountain passes we have her in Colorado. I would like a little more midrage power for cruising up the pass and being able to pass without blocking traffic behind me. I would like a bit more power in the 2000 to 3500 rpm range. I agree most of the aftermarket products depend on higher rpm's to be effective.
07-07-2012 07:18 PM
Gunner Was a performance engine builder for many years. Rule of thumb is the engine with the smallest port and the most flow wins the low rpm torque race. Most of the aftermarket parts I have seen for jeeps do nearly nothing in in the idle to 3000 rpm range. I agree that gears to keep you in your power band are best and when the time comes put the Golen Stroker in it. You'll be happiest that way. I don't think any of the items mentioned do anything for you on a crawl.
07-07-2012 06:54 PM
InvertChaos
Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2611

Wasting your time trying to have this conversation on this Forum.....I wonder how many have ran everything they say doesn't work for an extended period of time?

I have some but not all of the things mentioned, and have ran them for more than a couple years....and a lot of people were telling me IDK how to drive my Jeep because IMO it has enough power in traffic to drive around town running lower RPMs...bottom line I was told I was "lugging the motor" but no one ever rode with me or heard it.

How many people are driving around town above 2000K RPM---stick or auto?
This guy right here. I try to keep it between 2-3k if i can. Under 25mph it doesn't matter enough because of my gearing though. So cruising at 25mph I'm at 1800rpm, if i have to climb a hill and hear it lug, I down shift to 2nd. At 45mph I'm at 2100rpm, 60mph I'm at 2200rpm. The engine is in its power band within that range.
07-07-2012 06:43 PM
HarryJeepGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2611 View Post
Wasting your time trying to have this conversation on this Forum.....I wonder how many have ran everything they say doesn't work for an extended period of time?

I have some but not all of the things mentioned, and have ran them for more than a couple years....and a lot of people were telling me IDK how to drive my Jeep because IMO it has enough power in traffic to drive around town running lower RPMs...bottom line I was told I was "lugging the motor" but no one ever rode with me or heard it.

How many people are driving around town above 2000K RPM---stick or auto?
I'm still running everything that I said "Isn't worth it" or a scam, so 6 plus years if not longer. I've been meaning to take off the programmer so I can run lower octane gas, I just haven't got around to it because of work and forgetfullness. I drive a stick and try to keep my rpms between 2 and 3 K, it seems happier there. 4K if climing a steep hill before I shift. I only consider it lugging if you are stepping on the gas and not accellerating, like trying to climb a hill at 1500 rpm. Idiling is different than lugging, I've read those posts that don't understand that.
07-07-2012 06:33 PM
C.L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by baerbonesjones View Post
making it a combustion engine inhale and exhale easyer, yields power gains, thats 100% proven fact.
That's true, but looking replacing a component that doesn't restrict the inhale/exhale process still won't help. The prime moneytrap on the 4.0 is the stock air box. It is non-restrictive, and does a great job of keeping mud/water out of your engine. Replacing it with something that is ALSO non-restrictive, but isn't as good at keeping mud/water out is a step backwards.
07-07-2012 06:23 PM
jp2611
Quote:
Originally Posted by baerbonesjones View Post
making it a combustion engine inhale and exhale easyer, yields power gains, thats 100% proven fact.
Wasting your time trying to have this conversation on this Forum.....I wonder how many have ran everything they say doesn't work for an extended period of time?

I have some but not all of the things mentioned, and have ran them for more than a couple years....and a lot of people were telling me IDK how to drive my Jeep because IMO it has enough power in traffic to drive around town running lower RPMs...bottom line I was told I was "lugging the motor" but no one ever rode with me or heard it.

How many people are driving around town above 2000K RPM---stick or auto?
07-07-2012 06:11 PM
HarryJeepGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Green Machine View Post
I bought all of the stuff, and they do work. It would cost $4,000 to swap in a more powerful motor into my Jeep. I paid $600.00 for mods. They did not turn my Jeep into a "powerhouse", but the power gains are noticeable.
What products did you buy?
07-07-2012 06:03 PM
The Green Machine I bought all of the stuff, and they do work. It would cost $4,000 to swap in a more powerful motor into my Jeep. I paid $600.00 for mods. They did not turn my Jeep into a "powerhouse", but the power gains are noticeable.
07-05-2012 08:19 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier View Post
Increase displacement. Instead of 4.0L, maybe 4.7L.
displacement is part of it

Quote:
Originally Posted by RioWrangler View Post
This maybe a stupid question but what is meant by stroke the engine?
the term stroker refers to the stroke ratio of an engine. this is the ratio of cylinder bore to crankshaft stroke length.

calculate by:
ratio = bore/stroke

the 4.0L is an oversquare engine, meaning it's bore is greater than its stroke length, so the ratio is greater than one. If the ratio is very close to 1, then the motor is said to be square. If the ratio is less than 1, the motor is undersquare.

to make an engine a stroker means increasing the stroke length, making the engine undersquare, or closer to it than the stock oversquare configuration.

more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stroke_ratio

In the 4.0L, this is accomplished by installing a crankshaft from a 4.2L carb'd YJ/CJ, which has a longer stroke length than the 4.0L crank. You can do other stuff too, like boring the cylinder walls out, and the 4.0L has plenty of meat for such operation. There is a whole lot more too it, like long rod vs short rod, what pistons to use, deck height, camshaft and head choice, etc, etc...
07-05-2012 07:49 PM
freeskier
Quote:
Originally Posted by RioWrangler View Post
This maybe a stupid question but what is meant by stroke the engine?
Increase displacement. Instead of 4.0L, maybe 4.7L.
07-05-2012 07:46 PM
RioWrangler This maybe a stupid question but what is meant by stroke the engine?
07-04-2012 12:42 PM
Fundahl I think the first thing the 4.0 would benefit from is getting the cats out, a tune, and then the valve-train, head and cam.

Next up would be to super/turbocharge it or run nitrous.
07-04-2012 09:38 AM
Lando25
Quote:
Originally Posted by baerbonesjones
making it a combustion engine inhale and exhale easyer, yields power gains, thats 100% proven fact.
True, but in a realistic sense you can spend a couple hundred on a high flow exhaust, throttle spacers and chips and only gain a couple percent. Benefit doesn't outweigh the cost in my opinion.
07-04-2012 09:31 AM
s14sh3r
Quote:
Originally Posted by baerbonesjones View Post
making it a combustion engine inhale and exhale easyer, yields power gains, thats 100% proven fact.
True, but slight gains at 4000 rpm mean nothing if your engine rarely sees anything over 3000 rpm. The 4.0 is a great engine, but made for low rpm power.
07-04-2012 09:15 AM
baerbonesjones making it a combustion engine inhale and exhale easyer, yields power gains, thats 100% proven fact.
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