|01-05-2009 07:21 AM|
I knew it had to be one of four things: Lock Ring on the gas tank, a vacuum leak, bad gas cap, or bad purge solenoid.
So I came to this forum to see if anyone had experience on this (as you can see).
Although a few people here had the Lock Ring problem, it is the rarest of the four so I moved onto the next.
I checked every vacuum line. I felt every one of them and visually inspected each one. I found no deterioration and no loose connections. There were no splits or wear or anything.
I figured changing the gas cap wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing - either way (although it appeared to be fine). So I replaced it anyhow. I clear the codes and drove it for a day or two. The check-engine light came back.
I bought a purge solenoid (takes 3 minutes to put on). Cleared the codes. They have never came back (so that had to be the problem, right?).
Gas cap = $30. Purge solenoid = $30. If your dealer charges you much more than that, then call another dealer.
Hope this helps. If you have more questions, then please let me know. I am always happy to help any way that I can.
If I were you, I'd start by checking vacuum lines. Then the purge solenoid. (then gas cap and lock ring - if needed but I doubt you get that far before it is fixed).
|01-05-2009 07:10 AM|
I knew it had to be the Lock Ring on the gas tank, a vacuum leak, bad gas cap, or the purge solenoid.
I came here to see any one had experience on this subject. There were a couple people here that had the Lock Ring problem but it is the rarest of the (4) I listed above.
So I checked EVERY vacuum line. I saw no deterioration, no bad connections, no wear, no splits - nothing. I felt for problems too. Still nothing.
So I figured: gas cap or purge solenoid. I figured it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and put a new gas cap on it anyhow (although I saw nothing wrong with the old one). So I bought one and put it on. Cleared the codes and sure enough they came back within a day or two.
So I bought a purge solenoid. Took 3 minutes to put it on. Cleared the codes and they have not came back since.
Gas cap was around $30 and the Purge Solenoid was about the same. If your dealer is too far off those prices, then call another dealer because he is raking you through the coals.
Hope this helps. If you need more info, just let me know. I am happy to help in any way I can.
|01-01-2009 06:01 PM|
|Gary2||my 455 code was because of the ring that holds all of the fuel related items in the fuel tank . Plastic tanks and parts seem to expand and contract and move then the next thing you know , leak . Its a set up like the lid of a Mason jar . All of the components hang fron the flat center section and the the threaded ring around the outside hold everything thing along with a rubber gasket that don't do diddly if that ring unscrews slightly . Its a pain in the butt but but not as bad as I thought it would be . I was able to lower mine with half a tank of fuel with help from a friend doing the balancing act to keep it on the Jack . Maybe the Kilby skid plate helped some to .|
|01-01-2009 02:43 PM|
How did you determine it was a bad purge solenoid?
I have an 02 Wrangler that is throwing a P0455 code and has been for a long time. I tried to get it inspected last week (after disconnecting the battery) but they would not pass it and asked me to drive it 60-100 miles and bring it back. Well, I did drive it and the code is back.
This afternoon, I went through and disconnected and reconnected all the hoses to the EVAP system under the hood. I also put zip ties around each connection to make sure there's a tight connection. I looked at my gas cap and it doesn't look damaged but I did make sure it was tightened up.
I am going to drive my Jeep to work and back tomorrow (around 70 miles) and see if the code comes back. I have the battery disconnected now. Will this take the codes out?
I am just wondering what the next step if the check engine light comes back on tomorrow after doing what I did day will be. Any advice you guys have is appreciated! Thanks!!!
|10-13-2008 09:28 AM|
Yes, you definitely helped. Everybody helped a lot and saved me some money (which I desperately need right now - like everybody else).
I certainly appreciate everybody's help!
|10-13-2008 09:25 AM|
Well good, then I guess I helped a bit.
Thanks for reporting back.
|10-13-2008 08:58 AM|
|Wolfgang||Turns out, it was a bad Purge Solenoid. Took at about 3 minutes to replace it.|
|08-11-2008 09:00 AM|
in this picture, it is the little cylinder shaped piece next to brake fluid res. that has the two hoses connected to it.
Hope that helps.
|08-11-2008 08:44 AM|
Can you tell me exactly what the purge solenoid looks like? Just to help me out.
I'm sure I'll figure it all out but any info you provide will save me time... (with a one year old boy at home, I need all the time I can get LOL).
|08-11-2008 08:01 AM|
The two hoses that were cracked on my jeep are located on the drivers side front.
If you open your hood and go to the driver side, you will see were 2 vaccum hoses run down towards the ground and then turn towards the back. At the point where they turn towards the back is where my cracked because the hoses hang just a bit below the frame.
I am trying to remember the name of the part that (I replaced for no reason) the hoses run into.
Purge solenoid is there the hoses connect to. I just found my old post. Look at the very last post.
|08-11-2008 07:22 AM|
|Wolfgang||Tazmann - can you narrow my search by giving more detail on which vacuum line it was? I am still getting this code and about to go over it with a fine tooth comb. I've searched before and found nothing. Obvioulsy, I missed something somewhere...|
|06-27-2008 11:04 AM|
|tarheel||Just a promise of a yet to be determined sticker|
|06-27-2008 10:46 AM|
|06-27-2008 10:20 AM|
Spoken like a future moderator...
|06-27-2008 10:17 AM|
OK, so we have to separate the BS from the facts too to help people out. This place gets dicey sometimes so keeping a good tone to the subject is challenging.
Try to keep it fun and supportive....How's that for a line of PC BS?
|06-27-2008 09:45 AM|
|06-27-2008 08:43 AM|
|MOz||We still love you TRIPP....don't stop trying.|
|06-27-2008 07:22 AM|
It's one thing to not know and ask questions....
It's a completely different situation when you don't know something and then challenge someone that DOES know something....that's just ignorant and arrogant.
TRIPP, you can't always rely on the internet to learn stuff.. Sometimes you need to actually work on things to understand them. It's called experience. There is no substitute for experience.
|06-26-2008 11:49 PM|
|tazmann910||I was getting the same codes a few months ago and it ended up being the vaccuum hoses on the drivers side. It was touching the steering linkage and rubbed a hole. I replaced the hose..no more code. This is also after buying a new gas cap and some solenoid.|
|06-26-2008 11:26 PM|
about a year ago I had that same code come on
after we checked all the vacumm hoses and the gas cap we found nothing
we ended up dropping the tank and checking that gasket witch looked fine
ended up the big plastic skrew ring that holds the fuel pump in the tank was a little loose even though we had to tap it off with a rubber mallet
just a thought that gasket is about $10 but if the ring work its self a little loose it will cause that same code
|06-26-2008 06:32 PM|
|06-26-2008 06:27 PM|
|Triple88a||i see so thats the ccv valve then.|
|06-26-2008 06:19 PM|
here are some pics from my jeep of how it works.
first fresh clean air is drawn down threw the breather into the block.
(the front hose)
then flows threw the block and collects all the fumes then the valve in the back called the ccv valve meters the flow of the fumes into the intake where they will be burned up.
dusty jeep pic
|06-26-2008 06:03 PM|
|06-26-2008 05:46 PM|
|4.0l sahara||the 4.0 has a ccv valve it meters the flow thats all.|
|06-26-2008 05:28 PM|
|06-26-2008 03:20 PM|
|06-26-2008 03:16 PM|
|06-26-2008 03:15 PM|
As far as the original post goes.. do you have a body lift? Also look under your hood. Do you see the black plastic box on the drivers side of the engine bay?
see it shinning on the right of the image?
|06-25-2008 03:24 PM|
^most evap leaks are on vacuum lines that are for the solenoids for the fuel vapors only, but it is possible. but you would most likely have other codes also, evap codes USUALLY won't set if there's other codes present.
ecu is gonna throw lean condition before evap usually. evap has more criteria, and cycles of failure before it sets. so chances are you aren't gonna have evap leak code that effects driveability, USUALLY.
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