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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-23-2013 05:11 PM
bigbuckd
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carralo1 View Post
Thats actually great to hear cuz i ordered that kit today, Should be a nice upgrade from that plastic pos Chrysler made. What a horrid design, and then they discontinue the part. I called atleast 50 jeep junkyards across the us today and only 2 had one for me but wanted way too much. What a joke!!
Yeah I looked all over for about a week before I pulled the trigger on the new one. The plastic one is a pos. The stainless is way better. Cant believe they discontinued making them. Only a couple years too. Good luck with it.
01-22-2013 10:48 PM
kywaterman Your jeep looks great you've done a wonderful job. I really like the classic chevy color! A set of black wheels would look great on it IMO Keep up the good work!
01-22-2013 09:47 PM
Carralo1
Quote:
Originally Posted by schwag27 View Post
not sure if i said before - but i lived in Athens for 5 years... one great town and a hell of a time!
Hell yes!! Haha
01-22-2013 09:46 PM
Carralo1
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbuckd View Post
I had to replace my clutch hyd. line on my 92. The only place I could find one was through Advanced Adapters. took like 10 days to get it. but was very pleased. It is a stainless steel line that is flexable. Came with a few dif. adapters but got it to work. I think I had to get a nother hyd. fitting to take off the quick connect crap. Worked since then. That was this past fall. good luck
Thats actually great to hear cuz i ordered that kit today, Should be a nice upgrade from that plastic pos Chrysler made. What a horrid design, and then they discontinue the part. I called atleast 50 jeep junkyards across the us today and only 2 had one for me but wanted way too much. What a joke!!
01-22-2013 09:41 PM
Carralo1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charley24 View Post
Best picture thread on the whole forum!!!
It's easy with an iPhone
01-22-2013 08:36 PM
schwag27 not sure if i said before - but i lived in Athens for 5 years... one great town and a hell of a time!
01-22-2013 06:52 PM
bigbuckd I had to replace my clutch hyd. line on my 92. The only place I could find one was through Advanced Adapters. took like 10 days to get it. but was very pleased. It is a stainless steel line that is flexable. Came with a few dif. adapters but got it to work. I think I had to get a nother hyd. fitting to take off the quick connect crap. Worked since then. That was this past fall. good luck
01-22-2013 11:07 AM
Charley24 Best picture thread on the whole forum!!!
01-22-2013 11:06 AM
Carralo1 Since that day Ive been milking a leaking slave cylinder, worn out gear box, and an occasional no start situation where it wont get any fuel or spark but will start off a jump every time...??

Anyways, this past weekend (Jan 20) I decided i had enough of this leaking slave bs and so i began the clutch install. Doing this by yourself is not fun.... just an fyi lol. Make sure you have a friend, could have been done in about 4 hours if so. I went with the LUK clutch kit. New pilot bearing, slave cylinder/throwout bearing, pressure plate, and clutch disc. The hydraulic clutch line snapped at the quick disconnect, so now im in search of a line that doesnt exist pretty much. Its a 93 year specific line with a bs quick disconnect type fitting. Trying to get my hands on a new one is proving pretty tough...

I also ordered 2 new u joints. 1 for front drive shaft t case and rear driveshaft at t case along with a rear output shaft seal and new u joint straps and bolts for rear drive shaft (somehow lost them during clutch install smh). These parts will be here by the end of the week i hope. But until i find this clutch line it wont matter, ill be walking to class... haha







Pilot bearing puller worked great!! Cleaner than the grease or white bread method.


Old clutch and pressure plate. Clutch actually looked good when i removed it, but with the internal slave i would have kicked myself later if i didn't replace everything while in there.


New slave installed. The bell housing was wet with pine needles and other crap which im sure helped contribute to the bad slave cylinder. Some brakecleen and roll of shop towels on bare bellhousing cleaned er up nice (not in this pic)
01-22-2013 10:53 AM
Carralo1 10 bucks spent at the local wash



01-22-2013 10:51 AM
Carralo1 Well its been a while guys. Ive since moved down to Georgia. Me and my buddy made the 1100 mile trip from Lowell Mass to Athens GA.

Here she is the day we were leaving (Dec 30) 12 inches of snow on the ground!!





We made it down to Athens January 1st. The next day we decided to hit some local trails in Toccoa GA. It was a blast, got muddy, got stuck, broke a few things, it was a good day

















12-14-2012 06:46 PM
Carralo1 Today was very productive! first time in a while...

-Started off by rewiring up all my extras (cb, and 2 sets of lights) from when body was off
-seafoamed intake and crankcase/valves, drove it for a bit
-changed the oil n filter
- filled front diff because its been leaking at the axle seals and i havent got around to change em. It was cool that everyone said to use a 3/8 ratchet in the fill plug, never would of thought




-then it was time to tackle the brakes. when i put in new brake lines over the summer, the rear passenger bleeder valve was completely seized and stripped inside the wheel cylinder. I never fixed it, just bled the other 3 and called it done. Well today I went down to napa (sick and tired of the hooligans down at the other parts stores...."AZ") and got a new wheel cylinder and brake line fitting. one of the fittings going into the junction box up front has been leaking really bad since summer. Needless to say ive been driving with limited brakes for a while... haha


Got the line from master cylinder to junction box reflared with a new fitting and tightened down with no signs of leaks. Wheel cylinder went in with new bolts from lowes after a good bath of brakecleen on the drums,shoes and hardware.

Torqued down the lugnuts all around and called it a night.
12-14-2012 06:44 AM
Carralo1 New thermostat and gasket, valve cover gasket (it was so gummed up inside), cleaned out and replaced the ccv hoses and elbows. When doing tstat gasket make sure to take the extra time and clean off every speck of old gasket, wipe down with some sort of clean drying solvent, and i suggest using a thin bead of hi temp red rtv on both sides of gasket( did this on my cork valve cover gasket as well) I cleaned out throttle body 2 times. The gasket for the iac housing was no good and i used a hi temp rtv as a new one. i got anxious and only waited about an hour before starting it up. Currently the jeep now idles very low and stumpbles upon startup (300- 400rpms) for 5-10 seconds and then levels off around 900. when it gets to operating temp it will stay around 1100. Seems a bit high to me, i think id rather have it in the 8-900 range. What do you guys like for an idle? The code 25 is still coming up even after disconnecting battery multiple times and rechecking the codes way too many times haha......?

Ive been getting some oil in airbox and noticed i was getting reverse ccv pressure. the threaded fitting that goes into intake manifold for ccv system was very gummed up. I cleaned that and theres a little more vacuum. The front breather hose (valve cover to airbox) has barely any vacuum at all. I cant feel it with my hand. I held a piece of plastic to it and its definitely correct vacuum pressure now, but its very very faint. Whats everyone else's pressure at that front hose?



12-10-2012 09:11 AM
Carralo1
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowOutput2.5L View Post
Carralo, I would check the TPS as everyone says to since that is the first to go on these, Second would be your Temp sensor, sounds crazy but you ECM gets a reading of it and adjusts the Fuel/Air mixture on a set chart preprogrammed into the chip. When its cold it idles higher and as it warms up it tells the computer to adjust to warmth in the cylinders. After 230K on mine, changed it and noticed a difference when idling.
Thanks for the info. I actually completely cleaned the throttle body and specifically the idle air control. Put it back together with a new base gasket and it idled right up and was running great. But then today I go to start it and its not idling. i milk the throttle for about 15 seconds and it finally started idling but really low around 400 rpms.

Wanna nake sure im thinking of the same temp sensor..Are you talking about the coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing?
12-09-2012 12:19 AM
LowOutput2.5L Carralo, I would check the TPS as everyone says to since that is the first to go on these, Second would be your Temp sensor, sounds crazy but you ECM gets a reading of it and adjusts the Fuel/Air mixture on a set chart preprogrammed into the chip. When its cold it idles higher and as it warms up it tells the computer to adjust to warmth in the cylinders. After 230K on mine, changed it and noticed a difference when idling.
12-07-2012 09:43 AM
95YamJam Not sure about the code. But the jeep looks great!
12-07-2012 09:36 AM
Carralo1 Okay so I'm getting a code 25. Automatic idle speed circuit. Has anyone had this code before and how they diagnosed it? I'm not familiar with this code.
12-06-2012 04:57 PM
Carralo1 Having an issue with it idling. It wont start unless im pressing the gas, it wont idle at all but when it gets to operating temp it does. It takes a long time to get to temp and sometimes doesnt so i think im going to replace the thermostat in the next couple days. Im not sure if im having a vacuum issue or if its something to do with the tps... any ideas? I had tp replace rubber fuel lines at the tank and the fuel filter while i had the body off and also the hard vent line that goes to evap canister. ill start diagnosing this idle issue tomorrow so any info would really help.
12-06-2012 04:42 PM
Carralo1 Some snow that fell a couple days ago
12-06-2012 04:27 PM
Carralo1 OKay well its been a while since ive had er all in one piece. I had a few guys come over to help flip the body and get it back on the frame. I then struggled for bit getting all the newly fabricated body mounts to line up. But its all done and over with and back together. Frame was completely repainted, and underside of tub was rhinolined. This thing is pretty much rust free now. Was able to get the diamond plate rocker panels on last night, i would like to weld on some side steps once i order new wheels n tires.
12-06-2012 04:11 PM
Carralo1
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowOutput2.5L View Post
great Thread iv been reading for a while now and loving all the info. I have a 95 yj, 4" Rc's. on previous posts i agreed that anyone and everyone should take the trac bars off their jeep. They are pointless. They are to keep the jeep from shifting left to right like the coil springs do since they can flex a full 360 on each spring. However leaf springs dont flex like coils do so they are pointless. Also when your on the trail I HIGHLY reccommend taking your sway bar off. 4" rc spring are fairly stiff and you dont have to worry about to much sway like you would the 4" coil's. i got tired of taking my connects on and off and when i first hit the freeway without the swaybar i noticed little difference. Ill get some good photo's of mine and post them on this thread in the next couple days. hopefully this information makes sense lol, im good at ranting. Sorry!!
Hey thanks for the advice, next time i go out i will definitely be disconnecting it.
12-06-2012 04:09 PM
Carralo1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YamJam View Post
Great Job on keeping her on the road. I have repaired some spots on my frame as well as some body stuff. I also redid all my skid plate stuff and doubled the thickness on my gastank skid. It's lots of work but awesome to see them perform day in and day out.


Since you have the body off I would recomend beefing up the rear cross member and giving yoursef a good spot to bolt on a heavy duty rear bumper. If you haven't already thought about it.
Keep it up!
Hey man, thanks! Yeah ive been following your thread on the "Yam" and it really looks to be coming along. I think we basically have had to do all the same things as far as rust repair and fabricating pieces. Good luck, ill continue checking in on your thread
11-04-2012 04:35 PM
Carralo1 Ya man I go up to ocean park, there's no better place to be in the summer
11-04-2012 01:06 PM
correycinciyj awesome build thread man. currently working on my 89. was just skimming through the pics and a few looked familiar. the ones that you took in maine in that parking lot were about a football field from my old house in camp ellis. miss it up there so much.
11-03-2012 12:42 AM
LowOutput2.5L p.s. thanks for listing the guys info from ebay with those shackles. iv been looking for a good set of 1" booms and could get a straight answer on a good set. Time to spend some money!
11-03-2012 12:40 AM
LowOutput2.5L great Thread iv been reading for a while now and loving all the info. I have a 95 yj, 4" Rc's. on previous posts i agreed that anyone and everyone should take the trac bars off their jeep. They are pointless. They are to keep the jeep from shifting left to right like the coil springs do since they can flex a full 360 on each spring. However leaf springs dont flex like coils do so they are pointless. Also when your on the trail I HIGHLY reccommend taking your sway bar off. 4" rc spring are fairly stiff and you dont have to worry about to much sway like you would the 4" coil's. i got tired of taking my connects on and off and when i first hit the freeway without the swaybar i noticed little difference. Ill get some good photo's of mine and post them on this thread in the next couple days. hopefully this information makes sense lol, im good at ranting. Sorry!!
11-01-2012 08:31 AM
airspeed247 Those boom shackles are ridiculously badass for the money. I recommend them to anyone looking for a shackle.
10-31-2012 10:13 PM
95YamJam Great Job on keeping her on the road. I have repaired some spots on my frame as well as some body stuff. I also redid all my skid plate stuff and doubled the thickness on my gastank skid. It's lots of work but awesome to see them perform day in and day out.


Since you have the body off I would recomend beefing up the rear cross member and giving yoursef a good spot to bolt on a heavy duty rear bumper. If you haven't already thought about it.
Keep it up!
10-31-2012 08:41 PM
bigbuckd Sucks to hear. Glad your going through everything and rebuilding. Dread the day when my frame fails me. Already patched a few spots.
10-31-2012 04:49 PM
Carralo1 its been a while, was offroading about a month ago when all body mounts broke loose due to rust and so the tear down began. I took body off frame and have tackled all rot on frame, and frame body mounts it was horrible. had to remake the gas tank valance, the bracket for emergency brake cables, driver side shock mount, the whole section on drivers side from rear crossmember up the frame 18 inches or so i forget, and about 5 other spots. got a prothane 1 inch body lift kit to put in, also ordered some shackles 1 inch lift from eddie of Ground Pounder Fab on ebay, 3/8 thick super heavy duty its unbelievable very happy with them and very good price. pics of frame and shackles






















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