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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-10-2008 02:08 PM
yellowbeast01 Change the thermostat
09-10-2008 11:43 AM
nicolas-eric
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BLKJP View Post
.. Putting that on there should be good for 5 or so degrees for you as well.
Are you sure?
09-10-2008 09:58 AM
Rawkon yea that cooler by itself will work fine. no need to run it inline. a warm/cool tranny is a happy trans. about 160 ito 180 is a good operating temp.
09-10-2008 09:36 AM
nicolas-eric I have a tranny cooler. Itīs installed in the front of the other coolers. The manual said that I have to install it i a row behind the stock tranny cooler. Do you think that the new tranny cooler would be enough without the stock one? I have this cooler: Flex-A-Lite Heavy-Duty Automatic Transmission Cooler and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware

09-10-2008 01:15 AM
1BLKJP Hey Nicolas, I know that you probably need a new radiator, but I thought you had picked up a stand alone tranny cooler for your rig also? Don't see it on there, and you mentioned still running tranny fluid thru your stock radiator. Putting that on there should be good for 5 or so degrees for you as well.
09-09-2008 08:44 PM
slf41002 Yeah I didn't figure it would do anything to help with the cooling issue but the 185 was the only HD/HP one they had.I have tested the OE t-stat and the other 195 and the 185 and will more than likely go back with the OE one if and when I get the cooling issue resolved.They all test out to be good although the the standard 195 opens just a little later than the 195 OE stat.The 185 opens way before either of the other two.Yeah I also got a new cap and now have the pump in hand as I had to go get it because my delivery people forgot me.Oh well I can say now that everything to do with the cooling system will be all newOnce I get it back together
09-09-2008 08:04 PM
texasbyker hey guys one thing I would check is the rad cap a worn out cap will not allow the system to pressurize the more pressure the longer it takes to heat up. There is no real good way to dyno the spring pressure just take your old cap in to the parts store and compare the tension of it to the new one which should be stiffer.

Also a 180 degree ts shouldn't make that much difference in driveability vs. a 195 the ecm is smart enough to handle a 15 degre temp swing. In fact other than heater temp loss a slightly cooler ts allows the ecm to advance timing allowing for more power.
09-09-2008 04:55 PM
slf41002 Neah not the exhaust,I did check the stat(both of them)in boiling water and all is good there.I did find today that the bearing in the water pump is bad.I didn't notice it yesterday when I first took it off but today while waiting on the new pump that never did make it,I was fiddling with the old pump and noticed a little play in the shaft so I spun the pulley mount and sure enough it growled at me.After that I could feel the glitch in the bearing while turning it slow.So I am hoping between the bad bearing and the fact that my belt was set no were close to the tension it should have been that was causing my problem.I did get the new hoses,radiator cap and belt today just not the pump
09-09-2008 11:06 AM
richp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawkon View Post
only other thing i can think of is your exhaust. like your cats are clogged or your Y pipe is bent. you might wanna try a new tstat from the factory. even though yours is new ive had to return several in the past that didnt open when they were supposed too. i test them bu putting them in water and then boiling the water and watching the temp with a gauge
Thats another one of those dealer OEM only things I use, along with the OEM gasket with the RTV already on it. I went through 2 felpro gaskets in about two hours when I did my wifes ZJ, now I just keep 4 extra OEM tstats and 6 oem gaskets in the tool box. Ever time I go aftermarket on some things I get the short end and have to do it twice or three times.
I just ordered the intake manifold bolts for the TJ so hopefully I'll be able to get things sealed on that.
09-09-2008 10:41 AM
Rawkon only other thing i can think of is your exhaust. like your cats are clogged or your Y pipe is bent. you might wanna try a new tstat from the factory. even though yours is new ive had to return several in the past that didnt open when they were supposed too. i test them bu putting them in water and then boiling the water and watching the temp with a gauge
09-09-2008 10:07 AM
slf41002 I am hoping that this new belt at 180lb will cure my problem.I am glad to hear that you have seen an overheating problem from just the belt being to loose.I have but only remember those being the older V belt types and even then you could hear the belt slip at 60MPH.So hopefully once I get it all back together today I will have top see.Crossing my fingers
09-09-2008 06:30 AM
richp
Quote:
Originally Posted by slf41002 View Post
I have got a dial gage at the shop but the last time I tightened it was on the trail by feel.That krikit gage is pretty cool though.I will have to get one.The dial gage I have looks about like a fish scale but has two legs that hold down on the belt while the hook pulls up on it when you release the knob.The problem is I did not know the specs.I haven't been getting it tight enough all along after pulling it for the fan.I only went back to 90lb cause that is what an old belt calls for and 120lb on a new belt according to my dial.I guess now I know.BTW I will pick one of the other guages up mainly cause I like gadgets
The big pro gauges are nice but you need dam big pockets for them As for the lbs, I got them straight out of the FSM. If you want to see touchy, try a ZJ, 4.0L with ONLY a mechanical fan, no aux electric like the XJ, 140lbs it runs hot, 170lbs, cools right down. One interesting note I picked up, the ZJ fan clutch is according to the people on that group say the ZJ fan clutch is a super heavy duty, more so than the TJ or the XJ. Fact or fiction I don't know, will ask the dealer if the part numbers are different when I go to one today for some intake bolts.
09-09-2008 02:11 AM
slf41002 I have got a dial gage at the shop but the last time I tightened it was on the trail by feel.That krikit gage is pretty cool though.I will have to get one.The dial gage I have looks about like a fish scale but has two legs that hold down on the belt while the hook pulls up on it when you release the knob.The problem is I did not know the specs.I haven't been getting it tight enough all along after pulling it for the fan.I only went back to 90lb cause that is what an old belt calls for and 120lb on a new belt according to my dial.I guess now I know.BTW I will pick one of the other guages up mainly cause I like gadgets
09-08-2008 08:05 PM
richp
Quote:
Originally Posted by slf41002 View Post
What do you mean check my belt tension?How did I know it was loose?? I normally twist the belt to check to see if it is loose or not and can tell but in this case the belt felt tight but if I left the key on very long with out running when first started it would squeal about 30 seconds until the alternator got the battery up to peak voltage also if I turned the wheels all the way one way or the other the belt would squeal from the load of the power steering pump and wouldn't quit until I turned the wheels straight and goosed the throttle a little.This is why I am hoping at higher RPMs when it is overheating that the belt is slipping.Now that I don't think the water pump was the problem all I can do is hope for this now
Stop at NAPA and pick up a Krikit II belt tension gauge, $14.00, a new belt which is one that has been run for LESS than 15 minutes needs to be set at 180lbs, a used belt which is one that has run for more then 15 minutes needs to be set at 170, the average mechanic when setting by the twist and push method gets it around 90-100lbs. Most car engines use a spring loaded idler that sets the tension, I was surprised when I found out that jeep didn't. Maybe if you did 5 or more jeeps a day you might get to the point where you could 'feel' if it's right but most mechanics do cars and trucks with self adjusting belts so they never really get good at it. Just my opinion and observed experience. Napa will tell you it's for V belts, thats the krikit I the krikit II is for serp belts and fits into your shirt pocket with a pocket clip like a pen.
09-08-2008 07:35 PM
slf41002 What do you mean check my belt tension?How did I know it was loose?? I normally twist the belt to check to see if it is loose or not and can tell but in this case the belt felt tight but if I left the key on very long with out running when first started it would squeal about 30 seconds until the alternator got the battery up to peak voltage also if I turned the wheels all the way one way or the other the belt would squeal from the load of the power steering pump and wouldn't quit until I turned the wheels straight and goosed the throttle a little.This is why I am hoping at higher RPMs when it is overheating that the belt is slipping.Now that I don't think the water pump was the problem all I can do is hope for this now
09-08-2008 06:35 PM
richp
Quote:
Originally Posted by slf41002 View Post
Well now I am stumped!!! I pulled the water pump today and it is fine.I was hoping to find broken or rusted fins but it looks brand new.I am going to put a new one on anyway since I have this one off but other than the other items that I will have in the morning I do not know what else.I could not reuse the stock clutch fan to see if it made a difference due to the fact it either got bent,warped or the silicon in the clutch has settled cause it had real bad vibes with it back on.Anyway I will have the upper and lower hoses,new radiator cap,new belt plus the new water pump.Basically the whole coolant system will be new.If it still does it I will be lost.They will have to put in an extra slow lane on the interstate for me!!!!!!
Out of curiosity, how did you check your belt tension ?
09-08-2008 04:47 PM
slf41002 Well now I am stumped!!! I pulled the water pump today and it is fine.I was hoping to find broken or rusted fins but it looks brand new.I am going to put a new one on anyway since I have this one off but other than the other items that I will have in the morning I do not know what else.I could not reuse the stock clutch fan to see if it made a difference due to the fact it either got bent,warped or the silicon in the clutch has settled cause it had real bad vibes with it back on.Anyway I will have the upper and lower hoses,new radiator cap,new belt plus the new water pump.Basically the whole coolant system will be new.If it still does it I will be lost.They will have to put in an extra slow lane on the interstate for me!!!!!!
09-08-2008 10:02 AM
Rawkon SLF thats why i put in a autometer water gauge. and also put in a new temp sender in the stock location. its amazing how much my autometer fluctuates form 180 to 210 compared to the stock gauge which hit 210 and a little higher
09-08-2008 09:36 AM
slf41002 Yeah it has not really overheated like it did before the newest t-stat.Now it is just running way warmer than it should be around 220.It has not hit the point of boiling over like it did in Harland.It boiled over and the temp guage spiked/redlined.I think the temp spike was due to the fact once the coolant started out that gave way to steam that hit the temp sensor because the guage jumped straight from 220-230 to the red.I looked down and the guage was in the middle between 210 and 260 and a split second later it was on 260.Anyway it is now just running above the normal comfort zone.
09-08-2008 06:20 AM
richp
Quote:
Originally Posted by slf41002 View Post
Well I read Rawkon had a bad t-statThat is for sure not my problem.Also I replaced my stock rad with aluminum because I didn't like the plastic tanks.I have done enough research over the last few days to go with my next step.I will pull the water pump and see what it looks like.I am hoping that the impeller fins are gone.That would explain my whole deal.I started out with the e-fan and all was good for a couple of months running around 190 then I was pulling my trailer with the quad the day my radiator top blew apart after hitting 220.So then I put the aluminum radiator and a new 195 regular t-stat in and good for a couple weeks with no problems then while in Harland going up hill on one of the trails mine boiled over at 220 so we got to a point in the trail were I let mine set for an hour or so and it done fine the rest of the trail runs and then on the way home I hit a long mountain section of interstate were it hit 220 or more and boiled over again were I let it set on the road side for a while and got to the next town were i sprayed the radiator out and cleaned my air filter and it done fine the rest of the way home.Yesterday I replaced the t-stat with a 180 HD stat and today while on interstate it would get up around 220 again but never did boil over.What do you guys think????
Keep this in mind, ONE overheat of a brand new thermostat can turn the thermostat to toast.
09-07-2008 08:51 PM
slf41002 Here is a link to the radiator.And yes I have the factory shroud back on.It is on it right now and still didn't help.I have tried everything I can think of so if the water pump isn't the problem I am out of thing to try outside of the factory fan.I will try the fan first and see.If that doesn't work I will let ya know.then on the the pump.http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/elec...-18939-12.html
09-07-2008 08:45 PM
slf41002 Yeah I know not to many times you hear someone say darn I hope my water pump is junk huh!!!!
09-07-2008 08:44 PM
slf41002 Already done that.It will hold at 18lb with no problems.But if I take it to 20lb it creaps back to 18 with no signs of coolant but stays at 18 as long as you leave the pump&guage attached it stays right there???I am going to replace the cap also cause it still has the rusty corrsion that the old radiator was full of caked in it around the rubber seals.I figured it was the old orange coolant but now am hopeing the rusty colored gunk is from the water pump.
09-07-2008 08:36 PM
Rawkon i would give your system a pressure test on top of checking the water pump.
09-07-2008 08:19 PM
nicolas-eric with a low temperature t-stat it takes a bit longer until the coolant overheats.
but keep in mind that teh TJ engine is made to run at temperatures from 200-210 degrees. if you run it colder it will not work in an ideal way (fuel efficiency, pollution, ..).

i hope for you that it is the waterpump. when you rplace it, install a highflow pump, that will work better at lower RPMs (the e-fan will not turn on that often at idle p.e.). that only costs about 100$.
FlowKooler Automobile Water Pumps - Chevy, Dodge, Jeep, Ford, and more

which all-aluminum radiator did you install?
09-07-2008 08:13 PM
slf41002 Well I read Rawkon had a bad t-statThat is for sure not my problem.Also I replaced my stock rad with aluminum because I didn't like the plastic tanks.I have done enough research over the last few days to go with my next step.I will pull the water pump and see what it looks like.I am hoping that the impeller fins are gone.That would explain my whole deal.I started out with the e-fan and all was good for a couple of months running around 190 then I was pulling my trailer with the quad the day my radiator top blew apart after hitting 220.So then I put the aluminum radiator and a new 195 regular t-stat in and good for a couple weeks with no problems then while in Harland going up hill on one of the trails mine boiled over at 220 so we got to a point in the trail were I let mine set for an hour or so and it done fine the rest of the trail runs and then on the way home I hit a long mountain section of interstate were it hit 220 or more and boiled over again were I let it set on the road side for a while and got to the next town were i sprayed the radiator out and cleaned my air filter and it done fine the rest of the way home.Yesterday I replaced the t-stat with a 180 HD stat and today while on interstate it would get up around 220 again but never did boil over.What do you guys think????
09-07-2008 07:41 PM
nicolas-eric it is definately the radiator.
i was in a radiator shop and they checked the whole cooling system.

now with the e-fan the temperature is always at 210 degrees. but at speeds above 50 mph the fan runs all the time. in 2 weeks iīm in an offroad camp with very deep mud. after that weekend iīll install the new radiator.

a t-stat with a lower temperature doesnīt help if the radiator is the problem. it only takes a bit longer until the coolant becomes too hot.

the guy in the radiator shop told me that itīs better to replace the stock radiator more often than installing an expensive all-aluminum radiator. a dirty all-aluminum radiator is as bad as a dirty cheap stock radiator. he told me that the TJs cooling system is made for very high temperatures in the desert and that it isn't necessary to install another than the stock radiator.
09-07-2008 07:32 PM
slf41002 How about you Nico have you figured your overheating problem out??? I am bumping this one and a thread by Rawkon about overheating to see if we can get some more answers.I am having a problem also.Mine only does it at highway speeds normally going up hills on the freeway or for long pulls in 4 lo.I have a new aluminum radiator and have done replaced the t-stat twice.This time with a 185 premium stat.
08-27-2008 02:01 AM
nicolas-eric The problem was there BEFORE I installed the e-fan.
08-27-2008 12:32 AM
Rawkon Ever since i switched to an Efan Ive loved it. most guys dont take the time and have them properly setup which is why they switch back. if you look under most hoods nowaday in non HD vehicles you will find E fans everywhere. ever since i put in my flexalite just like Nico's i havnt had issues. the fan shroud is the key along with a high CFM rating. I was running hot at highway speeds too but it ended up being a bad T stat. running hot at highway speeds has nothing to do with a fan. I use to switch my fan off on the highways just to see how far i could go without getting hot. 3 fans is waaaaay to much. just have him get a good flexalite with a built in shroud like mine and nicos and thats all you need for a jeep. getting hot at highway speeds means air in the system, collapsing hoses, bad t stat, bad water pump, clogged radiator, clogged fins, sometimes a bad fan but at highway speed you really dont need too much of a fan.

Hey Nico, keep an eye out for your fan motor rubbing on the radiator. I had to space out my fan from the radiator to keep it from rubbing a hole in the rad
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