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Thread: Which is better quality - OEM Rubicon Lockers or a good Aftermarket? Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-21-2012 06:55 PM
Deadman Walking
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
Without a doubt, factory lockers are not nearly as good as aftermarket ones such as ARB.

Stick with a sport and add your lockers...

You can buy a sport and throw in a Pro Rock44 and still come out cheaper then buying a Rubicon.

For lockers, ARB hands down.
Great advice and let me add, if you plan on lifting it and running larger tires I'd stick with what you have and add what you want. IMHO the stock Rubi lockers are good for 31 and possibly 33" tires if you don't abuse them, but an ARB is solid. I have friends who run 38's & 40's and never break their ARB's. Remember Jeeps are built, not bought.
07-21-2012 04:19 PM
sneck I think the real bottom line on lockers (warranty)? go check out any of the makers of them. They all clearly have warranties up to a certain tire size. So whether its factory or not, most wont warranty anything over stock tire size. If you are able to get warranty work, be sure to booze up the service manager (before and after!)
07-21-2012 11:45 AM
pluke the 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by <a class="inlineAdmedialink" href="#">Baby</a> Huey View Post
Looks like ya let your wife take the Jeep to the Grocery Store .....
Curb damage ... "BH"
thats a given, there has got to be some curb damage. some where here.
07-21-2012 11:37 AM
Baby Huey Looks like ya let your wife take the Jeep to the Grocery Store .....
Curb damage ... "BH"
07-21-2012 11:31 AM
pluke the 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riccochet View Post
Just curious, but to those saying that your warranty claim will be denied if you break it on the trial how are they going to prove you broke it on the trail?

I live in a rural area with a lot of dirt roads and farm roads. My Rubi see's these roads often as they lead to where I go shoot. Lots of mud and ruts I have to get through to get where I'm going.

I doubt the dealer is going to know the difference between a farm road and a trail unless I tell them.

OP, I'd get the Rubi. I had a 2010 Sport JKU and traded it for my current <a class="inlineAdmedialink" href="#">2012</a> JKR. I didn't need the extra 2 doors and the Rubi is so much more capable than that JKU was. Price difference was negligible.
how is the dealer going to tell if i wheeled my jeep?

















maybe he will look at my jeep and say, ya your right, we can get all these things for you covered under warranty because it isn't obvious that take your jeep off the road.
07-21-2012 10:35 AM
joe002
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riccochet View Post
Just curious, but to those saying that your warranty claim will be denied if you break it on the trial how are they going to prove you broke it on the trail?

I live in a rural area with a lot of dirt roads and farm roads. My Rubi see's these roads often as they lead to where I go shoot. Lots of mud and ruts I have to get through to get where I'm going.

I doubt the dealer is going to know the difference between a farm road and a trail unless I tell them...
You shouldn't have to make up stories when you visit your dealer. I told them that I was just about to make a river crossing and tried to put on the lockers and only the front locked up. I told them I drove around the trials for hours after that and still couldn't get them to lock up. I told them that I re-geared it years before and the lockers were good up to that point, and if it was something I did then I would pay to have them fixed. They took it apart and said they found a defective part inside - not something I did, and not something due to my mods. When I got it back I noticed that they actually work better than new.
07-21-2012 08:54 AM
Riccochet Just curious, but to those saying that your warranty claim will be denied if you break it on the trial how are they going to prove you broke it on the trail?

I live in a rural area with a lot of dirt roads and farm roads. My Rubi see's these roads often as they lead to where I go shoot. Lots of mud and ruts I have to get through to get where I'm going.

I doubt the dealer is going to know the difference between a farm road and a trail unless I tell them.

OP, I'd get the Rubi. I had a 2010 Sport JKU and traded it for my current 2012 JKR. I didn't need the extra 2 doors and the Rubi is so much more capable than that JKU was. Price difference was negligible.
07-20-2012 03:32 PM
3JKs1H1 I like that idea Huey. Keep the old axle, you can always return it to stock if you sell. The detroits I had never had any issues (other than some squirreliness on packed snow if you abruptly let off the gas under load).
07-20-2012 03:14 PM
Baby Huey I guess "we" could thrash this subject forever.... Kinda like lift kits and tires...

How about swapping out the Sport D-30 (?) Rear end for a D-44 and installing a Detroit Locker.
Bigger R n P, bigger axles...No silly air hoses or compressor, operates on it's own, always there ....
The D-44 should be avail. at a reasonable price, may have to change gear sets, bearings along with the Detroit Locker, but should be cheaper than a whole new Jeep.
Am I all wrong ?????
Well, thats what I'd do if it were meeee , especially if I had the Sport set up the way I like it already...

"BH"
07-20-2012 01:44 PM
3JKs1H1 Having installed four or five Detroits and two auburns myself, there is more to this than the locker itself. There are bearings and seals, wiring, switches, relays, possibly a compressor and time. If it's not properly installed, you'll ruin the R&P, you might chunk it up and ruin the locker as well. So it's probably not a good project without good oversight. In the event it fails, you'll be out of pocket until you or your shop eats the cost of replacement parts.

There are also a few kinds of lockers, ones that differentiate, and those that don't (like most of the elockers). Those create a solid axle, if you try to turn on high traction surfaces, they will explode. A larger tire just makes it easier to break. So if you install 37" or 40" tires on an elocker, air down and and engage it and do circles in a rock garden, dealers should not cover the damage you will surely cause.
07-20-2012 01:06 PM
i82much
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska Jeep Guy View Post
True. I think depreciation might be the more costly item, but you are right, no one seems to pay for "upgrades." Of course, we also have to assume that this red-blooded Rubicon purchaser will be 100% happy with it as is.

He will likely mod the Rubi too, we have to be honest with ourselves!!

But enjoying life does not equal saving the most $$. Buying a new Rubi has value beyond its strait utility. Can't put a cash number on that!!
Absolutely. And, I don't think for a second it's a good habit to go trading in a new vehicle every two years. But, if you work the numbers, I bet you come to the following conclusion:

(1) If you are going to seriously wheel it, keep your Sport.
(2) If you are going to wheel it moderately, get a Rubi. The depreciation on the Rubi vs. the losses on the Sport upgrade probably more or less come out in the wash, and you end up in a new Rubi with a lot more power.
(3) But if you traded your Sport in for a used Rubi ...
07-20-2012 01:05 PM
twxsby The smell of a new rubi is worth a couple grand on it's own, cannot get that in the aftermarket world.
07-20-2012 12:57 PM
Alaska Jeep Guy Last financial argument for the Rubi, interest rates are stupid low so that is a plus these days!
07-20-2012 12:49 PM
Alaska Jeep Guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by i82much View Post
This is absolutely true, but also consider you'll get very little back for your mods if you trade/sell, whereas the factory rubi equipment contributes to the value at trade-in/sale time.

I think you'd really have to run some numbers to decide which makes more sense financially.
True. I think depreciation might be the more costly item, but you are right, no one seems to pay for "upgrades." Of course, we also have to assume that this red-blooded Rubicon purchaser will be 100% happy with it as is.

He will likely mod the Rubi too, we have to be honest with ourselves!!

But enjoying life does not equal saving the most $$. Buying a new Rubi has value beyond its strait utility. Can't put a cash number on that!!
07-20-2012 12:12 PM
i82much
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska Jeep Guy View Post
You have already spent thousands in depreciation. Why start that all over again? Unless your just hot for a new Rubi which, of course, is valid. However, you will spend a pile more money in depreciation again and in a couple of months, the 2012 will no longer be "new." Pimp the 2010. You will be $thousands richer and have a Jeep at least as good as the 2012 Rubi. Sorry, accountant at work!
This is absolutely true, but also consider you'll get very little back for your mods if you trade/sell, whereas the factory rubi equipment contributes to the value at trade-in/sale time.

I think you'd really have to run some numbers to decide which makes more sense financially.
07-20-2012 11:33 AM
Alaska Jeep Guy You have already spent thousands in depreciation. Why start that all over again? Unless your just hot for a new Rubi which, of course, is valid. However, you will spend a pile more money in depreciation again and in a couple of months, the 2012 will no longer be "new." Pimp the 2010. You will be $thousands richer and have a Jeep at least as good as the 2012 Rubi. Sorry, accountant at work!
07-20-2012 11:17 AM
N3M0
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneck View Post
in terms of the OP, I have a 2011 JKu sport. i'm lucky that I have the factory LSD, so when I bent my dana30 I sprung for a pr44 with an arb locker. very very happy I did, lockers are awesome. If you are at the point in wheeling where you feel you need lockers, you probably know you will need/want a regear as well as beefing up your axles. the only benefit to a rubicon is the transfer case and lockers; everything else you will find yourself doing the same work to upgrade anyways. So from a pure numbers standpoint you need to ask how much you will lose selling your old jeep, how much a new jeep will cost you, and then see if that expense is still greater than just building up your old jeep
well put sneck.
07-20-2012 11:13 AM
N3M0 I vote keep the sport and get some ARB lockers
07-20-2012 10:49 AM
rkidd Rubicon. I traded my 2010 JK sport for a 2012 Rubi. I will take the penstar motor over the 3.8L anyday. Depending what kind of off-roading your doing I dont see needing anything more than the stock lockers. Good Luck.
07-20-2012 10:48 AM
rkidd
07-20-2012 10:40 AM
lee indy i traded up into my new rubicon from a sport. no regrets at all. i run 33s and dont plan on bigger.

4-1 t case
dana 44 front axle
sway bar
lockers front and rear
80 horse more than i had.

thats almost ten grand by itself and you know what the sport would have been worth. exactly the same as with out it.
07-20-2012 10:32 AM
sneck to play the other side of the coin, I think most people who wheel hard and often enough to consider the factory lockers "junk" are the same types who will put detroits front and rear or even weld their diffs. I wheel with plenty of folks with built axles/rigs (37 is pretty much considered the normal size) and save for me, they all have the factory lockers, even the guys who swapped to pr44s. They just use them because they're cheaper, easier to hook up, ect ect. if you're buying it all brand new, yeah ox or arb is the way to go, but if you have rubicon lockers, nothing at all wrong with them. sure, they will be sure to die a painful explosive death after a certain number of miles, but oh well. they'll work well until then!

in terms of the OP, I have a 2011 JKu sport. i'm lucky that I have the factory LSD, so when I bent my dana30 I sprung for a pr44 with an arb locker. very very happy I did, lockers are awesome. If you are at the point in wheeling where you feel you need lockers, you probably know you will need/want a regear as well as beefing up your axles. the only benefit to a rubicon is the transfer case and lockers; everything else you will find yourself doing the same work to upgrade anyways. So from a pure numbers standpoint you need to ask how much you will lose selling your old jeep, how much a new jeep will cost you, and then see if that expense is still greater than just building up your old jeep
07-20-2012 10:21 AM
pluke the 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by VS1 View Post
I just went through the same thing. Ended up doing lockers, regear, and dual rate sway bar to my 2010 Sport. Total for front and rear ARBs, Swayloc Air, ARB Compressor, G2 Diff covers, 4.56 gears, and new shocks all installed was about $5500.

I figured if I traded and got a Rubicon, I'd immediately end up doing lift, wheels, tires, bumpers and winch as I already had on the Sport.

Point is - what seems like the same money really isn't.
We bought out sport brand spanking new for 21,xxx added lockers, gears, sleeves, gussets, oba, diff covers, for all under 5 grand.

puts the grand total under 30 grand.

we paid more then 30 grand for our rubicon unlimited.

big savings for some, little savings for others.
07-20-2012 06:28 AM
VS1
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmphoto View Post

But, if I can spend about the same money
I just went through the same thing. Ended up doing lockers, regear, and dual rate sway bar to my 2010 Sport. Total for front and rear ARBs, Swayloc Air, ARB Compressor, G2 Diff covers, 4.56 gears, and new shocks all installed was about $5500.

I figured if I traded and got a Rubicon, I'd immediately end up doing lift, wheels, tires, bumpers and winch as I already had on the Sport.

Point is - what seems like the same money really isn't.
07-20-2012 12:39 AM
snochick
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2

That is reality not fantasy. If you put larger than stock tires and wheels on your rig and you blow up your differential while four wheeling, you should better well be warned that in more cases than not, you will have your warranty denied. As previously experienced and witnessed, thanks Joe for letting me be clear.

And the main point and facts still stand. After market lockers are stronger, more dependable, and better quality than factory lockers.
This is truth. Sorry to say it but if you get a dealer to fix these problems after lift, bigger tires, etc go on then you're just lucky.

Many dealers will refuse you just bc you were on the trail. We asked our dealer about the tranny on our '11 bc it's gotten hot twice. They recommended the inter cooler (we knew this but were hoping to get a freebie) and then informed us if the tranny went out on the trail due to overheating that it wouldn't be covered bc of the nature of how it was being driven.

Some people get the super nice service manager to hook them up, but in general that warranty isn't gonna stand if your doing any real wheeling.
07-20-2012 12:24 AM
pluke the 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe002
Instead of promising someone that their warranty will be voided it would have been a little more accurate to repeat your experience...
That is reality not fantasy. If you put larger than stock tires and wheels on your rig and you blow up your differential while four wheeling, you should better well be warned that in more cases than not, you will have your warranty denied. As previously experienced and witnessed, thanks Joe for letting me be clear.

And the main point and facts still stand. After market lockers are stronger, more dependable, and better quality than factory lockers.
07-20-2012 12:02 AM
AJV Yes it can. I installed my front ARB in my 98tj over 10 years ago with no problems to date. Just make sure you have all the required tools.
07-19-2012 11:42 PM
Kssting
Quote:
Originally Posted by paychex.308

$2500 of that is labor, the parts will run you about $3k and probably a weekend of work. DIY!!!
I can see doing the reinforcements as a DIY project but gears and lockers? Can the gears really be done correctly without any prior experience?
07-19-2012 11:20 PM
joe002
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
We had 2 rigs elockers fail and all were warranty denied claims. Consider yourself lucky. My friends have also had warranty claims voided ddue to their modifications.
Instead of promising someone that their warranty will be voided it would have been a little more accurate to repeat your experience...
07-19-2012 11:12 PM
pluke the 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe002
What are you talking about?

I have 35s and 5.38s installed by a gear shop. My rear lockers went out and my dealer fixed them under warrantee.
We had 2 rigs elockers fail and all were warranty denied claims. Consider yourself lucky. My friends have also had warranty claims voided ddue to their modifications.
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