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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-27-2013 10:32 PM
BlackedOutYJ Good, glad to hear everything went well.
01-26-2013 05:43 AM
JollyGreen Yup I finshed up back in October. Been driving it everyday without any problems and it feels a lot smoother taking off in first. I was also having a clutch problems but that was because of a leaky slave cylinder, just topped it off works great. I haven't had the money lately to regear the front yet so its just 2wd. I think my plans have changed as far as regearing goes. I was figuring about 180 for the gears and 250 for labor from a guy I know but I can just swap in a HP Dana 30 with matching gears for 150 bucks. So its cheaper and I get the added benefit of it being high pinion. The swap went really well though with the 8.8 took alittle longer then I would have liked but other stuff gets in the way..
01-23-2013 10:39 PM
BlackedOutYJ Surely your done with this by now right? I want to see an update.
10-26-2012 01:21 AM
JollyGreen Here's a couple pictures...
10-25-2012 02:46 PM
JollyGreen So I finally got to drive the Jeep again! I finished up my swap and been driving the jeep since Monday. The swap took a bit longer then expected but luckly I just beat the nw rain and didn't get wet on the motorcycle once... All the little tools (flare nut wrenches, angle finders, tube bending wrenches, tube flaring kits, welder tips and sleeves, and so fourth) that I had to aquire made this swap feel like forever and finding people to help position the axle around made this take a lot longer then it should have.. But its finally done and drives great and stops well... I did all the work in my garage by myself except turning the disc rotors which I had to outsource.. I didnt want to do the breaks myself but my free tow fell through so I was forced to learn how to do it which probably saved me a lot of money especially for how easy it was... I ended up runing by the junkyard and buying a passenger soft line to replace the driverside and bent and flared my own hard lines into the block for the brakes.. I also used the OEM shocks the previous owener gave me since the rancho ones on it were to long and shot... And everything else bolted together great and I havent noticed any weird driving quirks so I'm really really pleased.. Thanks for all your knowledge and help everyone!!!
08-26-2012 03:28 AM
Nickabis It sounds like your shocks are toast. There should be fluid or gas in them, have some resistance to pushing and pulling.
08-26-2012 01:15 AM
JollyGreen Thanks yea I think a new cover is in my near future.. I got the rotors resurfaced today they said 15 each over the phone and I show up and they say 25 but honored my 15 dollar quote but were a little grumpy about it..I also removed the Dana 35 except that Damn brake line which got rounded off so I guess I'll resort to using vice grips.. I'm pretty sure my shocks are shot as well are they supposed to move pretty freely up and down.. I'll probably still use these ones for alittle and upgrade them down the road..
08-20-2012 09:49 PM
BlackedOutYJ Good deal. And looking back on your thread, if you rock crawl or wheel on bigger rocks. Do yourself a favor and order a better diff cover. I damn near ripped my stock one off Saturday night. Had to hammer it back to shape. Fortunately it didn't leak. Guess what this guy is getting soon! Lol
08-20-2012 09:21 PM
JollyGreen Thanks mine didn't have the clips but I used the screws from the brake caliber and a ujoint end cap to prop the rotor out worked great.. Now just need to get them turned and a few new tools and I should be back at it... I'll post another pic soon..
08-20-2012 03:22 PM
BlackedOutYJ As far as the rotors make sure the little round clips are off the studs that help hold the rotor in place if those are off just continue to beat the piss out of it around the whole rotor (careful not to ruin the studs they can be reused just clean up the threads), it will eventually come off, mine was a pain also. Not too sure on your brake situation sorry.
08-20-2012 03:08 PM
JollyGreen So I've been kinda lazy on this project but basically I got the 8.8 all cleaned up all the tabs and mounts are off. I bought an old MIG welder and filled in the grooves from the grinder.. next I plan on welding the tubes in place.. and once looking at the diff I realized its a 3.73 so I feel a little swindled but hey its got the LS.. I've been trying to remove the old axle but got Hung up trying to remove the soft brake line from the hard one does anyone know if I need a flare nut wrench for that? I also need a bigger wrench before I can take the shocks off.. so theirs been a few hold ups.

I've tried removing the rotors and I can't seem to get them off I found the Ebrake adjuster and can get them to turn a little bit now but can't get them off.. is there some thing I'm missing or is it just rust and crud that's probably holding it on?
08-01-2012 12:25 AM
JollyGreen Here's a pick of my Score and my Ruff Stuff Kit!!
08-01-2012 12:19 AM
JollyGreen So I picked Up my 8.8 with 4.10's and a limited slip for 250$ which feels like a steel since the paper they had was saying 450$ but they were legit and stuck to their over the phone quote so I was pretty thrilled..

I got it home yesterday and took off one of the mounts today and I'll take off the other 3 tomorrow.. I pulled the diff cover and everything looked pretty clean no gouges or chips in the gears.. When i pulled the diff though their was a bunch of water in the housing I think it was just because they washed it before loading it.. But a little bit of water shouldn't hurt anything right?

I think I'll spend most of tomorrow cleaning up and prepping the axle.. If anyone was has any free time and wants to help pull the Dana 35 sometime this week I would really appreciate it.. Or if anyone wants help with the welding or knows anyone with a mobile welding business they can refer me to i would really appreciate it...
07-30-2012 12:13 AM
JollyGreen So I made a few good buys today got a magnetic angle finder a new set of jack stands and some muffler clamps to mount my high lift jack behind the rear seat on the roll cage.. which im pretty happy with compared to the cost of buying an actual mount which the cheapest I saw was $30... I only spent twelve with all the hardware..

I checked the pinion angle and it was actualy at 0 or 90 degrees which ever way you wanna look at but horizontle.. Thats actually good if I did want to do the SYE at some point right? Don't you want the pinion angle and transfer case to be horizontal for the SYE and use a cv shaft? So should I just keep it horizontal? It'll probably work the same as my current setup and i wont have to change anything in the future for when i do go SYE.. I really do hate getting TC fluid everywhere lol...
07-28-2012 11:13 PM
JollyGreen Thanks I didnt think I would need the SYE but I do want one eventually I hate all the fluid draining every time I change a u-joint.. and the SYE kits are actually pretty cheap but the drive shaft gets costly.. or else I would just do it now..

I actually did find a write up for doing the measurements. So I actually feel pretty confident after reading that and seeing the pictures.. and I completely agree on not trusting anyone's measurements from online I just wanted the procedures on where they measured...

And I don't have the angle finder yet but I'll probably get one of the magnetic ones here in a day or two..

Also I'm hoping when I go pick up the axle I can talk the salvage yard to torching off the old brackets instead of spending hours with a grinder and cutting disk getting them off.. are most junkyards pretty helpful like that? Ya know five seconds for them like an hour for me lol..
07-28-2012 10:09 PM
Nickabis You won't need an sye with a 2"sua, that's close to what I'm running with my 8.8. Also with a sye, you'll need a different driveline. As for you pinion angle, do you have a angle finder to check the pinion angle of your current axle?
07-28-2012 10:07 PM
BlackedOutYJ No need for a SYE, if you can put it in your budget I'd do it, but it's not needed. As far as measurements I myself wouldn't go off anybody else's but mine. I just put the axle under the jeep on the perches, lined up my pinion angle, measured 15 times, then tacked on the perches, pulled the axle back out and welded it solid.
07-28-2012 09:38 PM
JollyGreen So I've been trying to find a thread on how to get the measurements to mock the axle up and set the pinion angle without much luck... I've come across about a dozen threads on how great the 8.8 is and all it's specs.. but I haven't found to many write ups on actually installing it.. I came across one thread with a link to a diagram on where to measure for the brackets but can't seem to find it again... So if anyone has some helpful links I would appreciate it..

Also if I'm SUA with only about a 2 inch lift 4.0 manual will my stock drive shaft work or am I gonna have problems and just do the SYE while I'm at it?... This is getting expensive quick lol.. axle swap, SYE, and Prolly regearing..
07-28-2012 10:41 AM
BlackedOutYJ I didn't go all out painting mine. I just used a wire brush and knocked off the rust and used hammered on paint. Turned out nice. And if you plan on getting a diff cover anytime soon, I'd get it now so you don't have to drain your fluid later. I say this because if your 8.8 is LSD is smart to put in some posi additive and that shit isn't cheap for what it is.
07-28-2012 02:14 AM
Nickabis I spent numerous hours after work sanding, grinding, and cleaning 10 years of everything off from the 2001 explorer axle I got. It was worth it, easier to weld on and easier to paint. the stock diff cover would work, you can get an aftermarket later if you want. The install kit I bought came with a new diff cover.
07-27-2012 06:47 PM
JollyGreen Probably next week. I got the Ruff Stuff kit ordered last night for $117 shipped after BlackoutYJ's coupon.. This morning I ordered the 1310 adapter flange for $37 and the Ebrake adapter cable for $70 from east coast gear supply and like $10 for shipping.. So im hoping that will all ship before the weekend..

I still havent picked up the axle but Hillsboro salvage has a few for $250 already pulled so I just need to enlist a friend with pickup to go get it with me.. I'm really contemplating just taking it to a shop to weld on the brackets and do the measurements since its been about five years since I did some consistent welding.. So I'm gonna run by some local shops and see what kinda quotes I get..

I also was wondering before you painted the axle did you sandblast or grind down any of the grime and rust or just kinda cleaned it off and painted over the rust?
And
Would it be wise to splurge on a new diff cover now or can it wait?
07-27-2012 02:19 PM
scottmphoto When will all the parts be in?
07-26-2012 10:34 PM
BlackedOutYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by JollyGreen
WOW thank you!!!!! I saw this just before I sent the order you just saved me another 30 bucks... THANKS
Lol. No problem man.
07-26-2012 10:13 PM
JollyGreen WOW thank you!!!!! I saw this just before I sent the order you just saved me another 30 bucks... THANKS
07-26-2012 10:04 PM
BlackedOutYJ Np.... ruff stuff is actually having a 18% sale on the site right now jut got the email earlier today!

BDAY is the coupon code!
07-26-2012 10:01 PM
JollyGreen Oh and thanks for offering to help... And the drive out is one hell of an amazing drive.. I use to live in Kansas City alittle over two years ago..
07-26-2012 09:59 PM
JollyGreen Thanks I appreciate it I feel like you already saved me some money with the swap kit. I was gonna go with MORE kit which i guess wasnt $200 but $150. So I think im gonna order the ruff stuff kit right now and hopefully pick up the axle tomorrow... Anyone have any ideas on the gears I should look for im thinking of running 33's which i have 31's now with the 4.0 and manual trans and I drive it daily so prolly around the high 3's or low 4's should be okay right?.. I can prolly find the answer to that in other threads but hey if anyone has any input id listen..
07-25-2012 10:33 PM
BlackedOutYJ You shouldn't pay close $200 for the swap kit. I bought mine from ruff stuff for around $120 shipped. It includes everything you should need except the new flange it'll require. It's not too bad swapping it in, plenty of threads and how to's for the 8.8 swap. If I was local to you, you could count me in, but that's a hell of a drive so if you have any questions I'll do everything I can to help ya. Good luck!
07-25-2012 10:23 PM
JollyGreen
anyone wana help swap in an ford 8.8?

So i was getting off the Highway on monday and heard a loud snap and pulled over to find my rear drive shaft able to spin freely.. So Im pretty sure the dana 35 gave up the ghost. So im gonna try and swap in the 8.8 this week..

I called a few junkyards and can get the 8.8 for about 250.. and can buy the weld on brackets for the yj for another 200. The weld on brackets are my biggest concern getting the geometry right. I was wondering if anyone's had experience setting that up that can help or recommend a good shop that can take care of the brackets and welding the axle tubes to the carrier? I also know ill need a u joint adapter and other odds and ends..

So i was just wondering if anyone wanted to lend a hand or use of a welder for a case of beer and some dinner or something.. or let me know of any problems I might run into..

Thanks
Devon

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