|Today 03:52 PM|
I drew on the photo to simulate what it might look like with tinted windows in place.
|Today 03:40 PM|
Here's the Safari Cab rear panel after trimming. Since I made the panel to accept the factory liftgate weatherstrip, I put that on after trimming to test the fit (fits just like factory).
Another shot, with the barn door setting in place. The barn door is slightly large, I won't do a final trim on it until the parts are on a Jeep, which will enable me to final trim it get the door gap perfect all around.
I've still got the plywood "window" in this barn door, and I haven't cut the holes in the panel for the opera windows yet. I do have clear windows on hand to install, so over the next few days I'll put clear windows in all 3 openings. In case you're wondering about the opera windows, the openings the opera windows mount in are the same height and vertical position as the side windows, so they'll match the sides nicely. When the opera windows are installed, the viewable area out of them will be roughly 1" less than the size of the mounting surface on all 4 sides due to the window frame/gasket, so if the window opening looks a bit large in these photos that's why.
|Today 09:54 AM|
This week I finished up the work on the mold for the JK Safari Cab rear panel, and yesterday I made the first part in that mold. Here's the resulting part, just popped out of the mold. It hasn't been trimmed yet and the mold release hasn't been washed off, I'll get that done later today.
It's very similar to the factory hardtop rear panel, but it's got recesses for mounting the opera windows on each side of the barn door opening, and it doesn't have hinge recesses above the door opening. It's also got some differences not visible in this photo, such as the bolt flanges for attaching the removable side panels to it.
More photos to come as I get it trimmed and cleaned up.
|10-23-2014 09:24 PM|
|Krashdragon||I'll get in line for a set of hinges. Totally sick! aka awesome!|
|10-23-2014 08:25 PM|
Here's an action shot of these hinges getting welded up on Jeff's welding bench It is really amazing to watch and work with him to create these designs.
|10-23-2014 08:11 PM|
|Jeep sauce||I like the upgraded hinges. The first time I got my tires rotated the tire was dropped so hard on the carrier that a popping-click sound was made every time the door fully opened. I would love a set of these when they are ready for market. Great work jscherb and milkman!|
|10-23-2014 08:10 PM|
|Espo78||How did you fix that?|
|10-23-2014 07:24 PM|
In case you need another reason to change hinges....here's the amount of oxidation on mine and it's only a year old. If only Chrysler wouldn't cheap out and actually prime the surfaces before assembling for final paint.
|10-23-2014 03:04 PM|
Oh and there's no cheezy plastic covers to break like on the factory hinges .
And stay tuned, Tom and I are working on an accessory mounting system for them. We're thinking options to hold:
- a jerry can or NATO can
- a Hi-Lift
- a Rotopax container
- A trail shovel
It wouldn't hold everything at once, for example a jerry/NATO can takes up enough room between the spare and the tail light that not much more would fit, but perhaps a Hi-Lift + shovel or + Rotopax at the same time.
Did we miss anything important?
|10-23-2014 02:57 PM|
No issue with this now and it will also give me the capability to carry accessories like a hilift on that hinge.
Is it that large of issue with the stock tire carrier? I did a quick search and most were damaged when the spare tire was hit or backed into something.
|10-23-2014 02:07 PM|
They look really nice but do you think the hinges will be enough to secure the tire on rough terrain? What will these give you that the stock ones don't?
I'm just thinking abou the teraflex unit and they have the hinge directly supporting the tire, so the door is no longer supporting its weight.
|10-23-2014 01:13 PM|
|Dr.Ew||Man, those look great! Strong work.|
|10-23-2014 12:15 PM|
First I want to thank Jeff for his time and his help making up my set of hinges.
These are very impressive when you get them bolted on. The tailgate feels more secure and mine closes much easier than stock.
Now to some pics of them installed.
|10-20-2014 10:49 AM|
One more thing about these hinges... they're designed so that accessory carriers can easily be mounted to them, so as soon as Tom gets his hinges painted and installed we'll be working on a Hi-Lift carrier to mount to them. I've got similar hinges on my LJ and I've done a Hi-Lift carrier for that Jeep, so now it's time to do one for the JK with these hinges. The TJ/LJ version of the Hi-Lift carrier in action on the trail:
|10-19-2014 03:37 PM|
|10-19-2014 03:30 PM|
|Espo78||Looks great! I want a set hahaha|
|10-19-2014 12:02 PM|
Tom and I finished up the machining on his heavy-duty hinges this morning, all they need now is a little final sanding and then painting. Here's one during a test install:
Just like on the factory hinges, there's a positive stop to prevent the tailgate from opening too far.
Ready for finishing:
|10-18-2014 11:02 AM|
|10-18-2014 10:38 AM|
Replace "ugly" with "cool" and I am in agreement.
I want a set of those HD hinges alone, I think they would be a big seller as a separate option and alternative to the overly pricey Teraflex unit.
|10-18-2014 09:40 AM|
|clull05rubi||Ugly looks like a land rover|
|10-18-2014 09:26 AM|
Barn door project progress update... I made a mold and molded some wiper cavity covers, in this first photo is the early model barn door with the wiper cover installed, the wiring harness plug comes out the bottom, and it's the same plug as the JK's hardtop plug. This one's still got the temporary plywood "window" installed.
And here's the later model wide barn door; the cover isn't installed yet so you can see the wiper motor inside.
Tom's got pretty heavy tires on his JK and since he upgraded to them he's been concerned about the weight on the tailgate hinges, so while we're in the process of doing his barn door we're also doing a heavy-duty hinge upgrade. Here's a shot of the work in progress on the new hinges; all of the machining isn't done yet but you can see the difference between these and the wimpy factory hinge alongside:
|10-18-2014 08:40 AM|
|PaWillys||Ah ok. I'll keep checking back here because those lines on the top are pretty cool. They are different and I kinda like it. It gives it a retro type look as it reminds me of some of the old Willys steel tops for the M38/M38A1. Not to mention the added functionality of the top and the "roveresque" windows. Thanks for the reply. You have designed some awesome tops and I want to be a customer.|
|10-18-2014 06:19 AM|
|10-17-2014 11:45 PM|
so has anyone brought to market the Safari top for 2Dr JK with barn door?
how about the hybrid modular top you designed? I really like the slop of the Safari top and would like to possibly pick up on of your designed tops.
|10-17-2014 08:22 PM|
My hardtop drip rails work great tho. I have to dress up for work and don't have any problem with drips. I wonder if having the leveling kit on my jeep to get rid of the factory rake doesn't let the water pool up in the front of the rail?
I think the stick on rails are a good compromise. Run without them or in my case run with them.
|10-17-2014 04:43 PM|
|Espo78||I can tell you that the drip rails on the soft top (which basically function about the same as the hardtop) are terrible. They act as a funnel and when you open the door water just pours right in from the front of the door opening and gets your legs wet. Maybe this is a good opportunity to fix this issue if you can figure out how.|
|10-17-2014 08:06 AM|
I got a photo of the Ursa Minor drip rails - they seem to be fairly small, and I'm told they're separate pieces attached with 3M double-sided tape. I think I'll take the same approach on the JK Safari Cab.
|10-17-2014 06:00 AM|
Does anyone here have an Ursa Minor JK camper top or a Smittybilt JK hardtop? I'm asking because neither of them have drip rails over the doors like the factory top does; take a look at the barn door concept drawing I did on an Ursa Minor photo below.
On the Smittybilt top, I can imagine they decided not to include drip rails because it's cheaper to manufacture the top without that detail, but I don't know if the "cheaper to build it that way" argument would apply to the very expensive Ursa Minor top.
The reason I bring this up is that as I'm making the molds for the JK Safari Cab, I can either include drip rails in the molds or not, so I'm wondering if people with the Smittybilt or UM tops wish they had drip rails. When you open the door in the rain to get out, do you get wetter in those tops than you might in a factory top?
The Ursa Minor top without drip rails:
The Smittybilt top without drip rails:
The drip rail over the doors are visible in this shot of a factory hardtop that I edited to include the Safari Cab:
Edit: someone on the Expo forum just told me that the Ursa Minor has does have drip rails and they're stuck on with 3M tape, although I don't see them in the UM photo above. I've asked him if he has a better photo or more detail. I'll post what I learn from him.
Also, no drip rails are in evidence in this photo of the AT Habitat camper top (co-developed with UM).
I'm just trying to understand how much the drip rails help keep occupants dry when entering/exiting the vehicle in the rain so I can decide if I should include them in my molds.
|10-16-2014 08:04 PM|
|10-16-2014 03:43 PM|
|Espo78||CRAP I'm Sorry Jeff didn't mean to call you the wrong name. I was pretty tired yesterday. :/|
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