|05-14-2014 08:06 AM|
|05-14-2014 07:16 AM|
|10-11-2013 03:25 PM|
|J21||Nice write up igf101 !|
|10-11-2013 02:40 PM|
I did cut off the RCAs and used speaker level input. I mounted the amp under the steering and had to add extra wire to get it there. I have experimented some. First I replaced the stock speakers with the Boston Acoustics that are in the Challengers and that sounded better. Then I added the amp and that was better. Then I installed Infinity PR6500cs in the front along with Infinity 1031t 1 inch tweeters and that made a big difference in clarity.
I installed these tweeters by popping out the stock ones, removing the tweeter from the grill. I then cut out the part of the grill with the holes in it and hot glued the infinities in place.
I can cruise on the Interstate and hear music now!
Attached is a pic of the mounting plate for the amp and the Infinity tweeter installed.
|10-11-2013 01:19 PM|
|cicatriz63||Gotcha now. So you cut the RCAs off the alpine and have the speaker wires going from the harness into the now speaker level inputs of the alpine right? how does it sound compared to the stock? Did you use the same components in the front as this build? I'm a bit nervous to cut out bigger holes for the tweeter especially since the pods are now part of the entire dash. I'm wonder if theres a way to dremel down the piece on the new tweeter that holds it in place rather than trim the tombstone.|
|10-11-2013 01:11 PM|
I looked at my notes again.
The original wiring harness plug has 12 wires.
The 70-6522 has 11 wires. One of these was also in the wrong number position. I moved one pin to a different position on the adapter to match the original plug configuration.
I purchased an extra 70-6522 adapter to get an extra plug pin and installed it in the 70-6522 that I used for the harness so it now has 12 wires.
The 71-6522 had more wires than needed.
|10-11-2013 09:07 AM|
The 70-6522 did not have enough wires and connection pins so I purchased another 70-6522, removed two connector pins (with the attached wires) and put them in the other 70-6522 connector at position 2 and 13. The 71-6522 had more wires than needed so I removed the extras. There is a clip on the connectors that needs to be pulled up a little in order to removed the pins.
I also installed the Alpine KTP-445U amp so I can tell you how I tuned it if needed.
|10-11-2013 08:02 AM|
|10-11-2013 06:44 AM|
I made a harness using a METRA 71-6522 to plug into the HU and a METRA 70-6522 to plug the original harness into. Had to purchase an extra 70-6522 to get an extra pins for #13 and #2.
If you need extra pins let me know And I will mail them to you.
This was with the basic 130 radio.
|10-10-2013 10:23 PM|
I'm contemplating doing a similar build in my 2014 sport and was thinking about getting a regular wiring harness and a reverse wiring harness to avoid cutting up the factory harness. Does anyone know if this is the harness to go into the back of the stock head unit? Metra Part # 71-6522 | Chrysler wire harness | Metra Online
I would then run the speaker lines to the amp and then connect only the power and ground and whatevers left to Metra 70-6522 (met-706522) Wiring Harness for 2007-up Chrysler, and then connect to the factory harness.
|06-11-2013 03:30 PM|
I bought the AOEM-CHR3 to do something similar to what you did, except that I really do not want to cut into the stock wiring. The CHR3 is already wired with the correct plugs so that I can gain front and rear RCA outputs. I plan to then mount the Alpine unit and run new wires to the speakers this way and if I need to, a Sub. I have replaced all four speakers with the Kicker 40CS654 speakers and the clarity is insane. Pollyfilled all enclosures and added two sheets of dynamat to the sound bar and front speaker buckets. Definitely better.
Has anyone used such a product before?
|11-08-2012 07:25 PM|
I have a 2007 with the infinity system, but I just put in a pioneer headunit, and a mono amp for a 12" sub. Could I still use this amp to boost the stock amp for my four speakers and two tweeters? (if I could I would also replace the speakers)
I would rather do this (if its possible) than get a new amp because this seems so much easier to install
|08-26-2012 01:29 AM|
|Goguyted||I did it. Thanks to your wiring info >"igf101" I've finally got my PAC-SOEM-T spliced into the HU and hooked up my 1000wPioneer Amp, Rockford Fos Capacitor, and two 12" Rockford Fos Punch stage 3 subs. I've been on vaca all week and with the perfect pick for weather vacation I had no reason to just go out and try/hook it up finally. Thanks again, you finished my project. Subs are bang'n.|
|08-16-2012 09:21 AM|
No, you can still add a powered sub. I may add one down the road, but right now, the bass from the Polks is enough to keep a smile on my face. Obviously, it's not earth-shattering bass, but more than adequate for 6.5" speakers. I have the rears cutoff at 80Hz, so really, only the fronts are providing lows.
What powered sub are you looking at?
|08-13-2012 04:55 PM|
Great write up...thanks a ton! I just replaced all the speakers as OP mentioned above, and plan to add the Alpine ktp-445u next, keeping the stock HU.
Question - if I am using the ktp-445u from the HU with high level speaker inputs - do I lose my possibility of a powered sub later - or can I tap high level outputs twice?
FR > ktp-445u
FL > ktp-445u
RR > ktp-445u & powered sub?
RL > ktp-445u & powered sub?
|08-06-2012 01:47 PM|
|08-05-2012 11:29 AM|
I also installed a KTP-445U in my 2010 JK and can confirm it did improve the DB6501 components (although I am using an aftermaket HU, not stock). After installing the amp (and setting it up properly) the bass output increased and distortion decreased at higher volumes (which is what an amp should do).
I've been running this set-up for a month now, and am pretty impressed with it. I would like to try to bridge the amp to run the components. That being said, I still find there is a lack of bass response on the lower end (even without the high pass filter on the HU set), which is to be expected.
Polk DB6501 (off the amp)
Polk DB651 (off the HU)
Polyfill all around
|08-05-2012 09:47 AM|
Really?? I thought that just changing out the speakers would help alot. I have never had a car that upgrading the speakers made little to no difference. I am not a bass nut, so I don't need anything that shakes the car, just nice clean sound with the top off.
I upgraded the HU to a Pioneer x940bt and that helped, figured an amp and speakers would only help. Would I be better off bridging the amp for the components and running the rears off the HU?
|08-05-2012 09:32 AM|
|j0nx||Well I can tell you that any shop will tell you that this setup will be a waste of money. Mine said that they would do it for me but that I would probably hear little to no difference at all. Not sure if this is the OP's experience or not but that's what my shop said and their opinion has been echoed by many people on here. I'd still like to do this myself just to save money as I don't need a really high quality setup anyway, just more power and a cleaner sound.|
|08-05-2012 09:20 AM|
Ok, I have the Sport and do not see or more importantly hear any sub.
I will be doing almost the same setup as the OP. Just with Polk DB6501 as the components. Thanks for the help guys!!
|08-05-2012 09:02 AM|
|08-05-2012 08:55 AM|
True or False???
I was told my Crutchfield that my 2012 JK has a factory amp and that I would have to find a way to bypass it to add the Alpine 445u to it. I told them that I thought the JK w/o Infinity did not have a factory amp, but they said that their papers show all JKs as having a factory amp.
|08-01-2012 08:08 PM|
Also the tweeters look perfect in the tombstones. Very nice work on those. You have one shot to get it right!
You could run a relay off of the switched power on the harness to then run a relay powered direct line from the battery to support the amp and then be the remote for a sub amp later on down the road. That would ease the power tapped off of the harness. But I hear you on doing things once. That is what I did.
|08-01-2012 07:59 PM|
Nice job, wow, nice write up! thanks
I love those tweeters, seriously with the chrome bezel it looks OEM and how it should have come from the factory. I hate the look of the tweeter face, looks so cheap. I might just order me this set and do the rest later
|08-01-2012 07:47 PM|
I used one of these to splice into the power wire. I kept going back and forth on running the amp power wire directly to the battery, and still plan on doing it eventually. I initally planned on getting a powered sub and then run both power wires to the battery on the same day. Since I put the sub off, I'll run the amp power wire one of these weekends.
I had and still have concerns about tapping into the factory power wire, but the amp was desinged to run this way.
|08-01-2012 07:39 PM|
Also the CanBUS (or whatever Jeep is calling it) monitors every single aspect of electronics that goes through the fusebox. This is also why I don't tap into the fuse box or other factory wiring.
In my system, the PAC harness plugs in and supplies constant/switched/ground to the HU. I also double grounded the HU (different issue) so as far as the "Jeep" is concerned it is powering the HU just as if it never changed. Then my remote out from the HU powers a relay. That relay carries battery constant +12v and supplies relay switched power to everything else - Sirius receiver, switch for lights on light bar, amp remote, etc.
The reason for that is any connection directly to the battery is not monitored by the "Jeep". Sure overal volts and amperage is, but power from the battery to accessories is not. So literally everything I have is driven off of a relay that switches on when the HU turns on. The relay only needs about 30mA to flick to the "on" position so there is literally no draw. This also creates a mini delay to the amp remote so you don't get the sub "pop".
So in my set-up I am using the HU remote out to switch on +12v to everything else. I also ran a 4 gauge direct line for my amp in the back.
MOST IMPORTANT - fuse where needed. I have fuses at the battery for the relay feed as well as the amp 4 gauge line. Plus aditional fuses at other locations. Basically something shorts, a properly sized fuse will be the first to go. $3 cost. Better than my whole Jeep up in flames.
|08-01-2012 07:28 PM|
If that is true, then I don't see any way to keep the HU and not tap into the main harness at least for speaker signals. You could not splice into the yellow and just splice into the paired speaker signals and then run to a LOC and amp that way.
My main concern is the tapped harness for the amp power. You now have an additional current draw on a line that was not originally intended to supply additional power. Since everything that comes out of the Jeep's electrical is monitored, I just don't know if it could create a problem?
I see no isues with correctly tapping into speaker wire as that is coming from the HU and running to each speaker. Again my concern is tapping the harness for constant or accessory power.
At a minimum, if you are scared of harness tapping (as I am) you could take the wires right off of the speaker and redirect to the amp, then right back to the speakers. The fronts are not much work as the front speakers are in close proximity to the HU. The sound bar would be a pain in the ass to do that. One good thing is you don't have door Molex to run wire through. My Ford Escape had extreme Molex plugs and all 4 doors were my biggest nightmare. Try running bigger gauge wire through those. It sucked!
The biggest issue for me is the lack of adjustability with the HU. So going the OP's route, he has nice powered speakers but what is driving the sub? Now it appears that the speakers are powered nicely but the amp is still running off of factory HU and factory amp power?
|08-01-2012 07:16 PM|
|igf101||Lynskey, you do some awesome work. I've seen a few of your threads...very clean and organized. I was actually going to message you about the PAC harness before my install...then didn't.|
|08-01-2012 07:05 PM|
|j0nx||Lyn can you do what igf did without cutting the stock harness? You know this is what I always wanted to do in the first place to keep cost down with the baby on the way. I knew you'd chime in I know it can be done but I want to do it without cutting the harness and maintaining all stock functionality.|
|08-01-2012 06:46 PM|
IMO I would (and did) purchase the PAC harness and run an aftermarket HU and do everything from there.
My reasoning is that a cut harness voids the warranty. What exactly does it void? Well lets say you screw it up and fry your ECU (or whatever it is called in the Jeep). First inspection at the dealership will be quick and directly point to a cut harness "as the reason" - wether or not it is the actual cause. Once that harness is cut, your defense is gone.
The PAC harness is the easiest thing to do to prevent that. You plug it in and it supplies all necessary ground, constant power, accessory power, dimmer etc. Then if you have steering wheels controls, simply plug in the SWI to the harness. program and your done.
In addition none of the stock HU offer any good audio settings or tunability - just treble, bass, fade and l/r. No EQ, no High pass/low pass, etc. Nothing.
While I commend you on the balls to splice into the harness, it is not something I would do with a $30k+ vehicle with a factory warranty. But that is just me.
If you want any adjustability with sound, you need an aftermarket HU. That is what I did with mine - HU on back with all new EVERYTHING. Yes it does cost more, but music is my life. I need it, love it and have the knowledge to replace the entire system with what I want.
Again just my opinion. Congrats on the awesome speaker and amp install. It looks very, very good and probably sounds great.
If intereted here is my build thread: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f40/201...og-155755.html
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