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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2013 05:17 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wordgie View Post
As in as soon as it leaves the radiator?
The check valve goes in the line leading to the radiator. That means for a 2002 or older TJ, the check valve goes into the line that connects to the driver's side of the radiator. For a 2003 or newer TJ, the check valve would go into the line that connects to the passenger-side of the radiator.
08-18-2013 02:01 PM
Wordgie Thanks!!!

Quote:
2. The line goes along the drivers side of the engine beside the oil pan, the check valve screws onto the front of the metal line.
As in as soon as it leaves the radiator?

Quote:
5. Other than the valve, filter & fluid, that's about it. Mine had a Mopar reusable pan gasket. If that's what yours has, I suggest staying with it, as I had issues with the rubber gasket that came with my filter leaking afterwards. Valve body removal is required to do the Sonnax manual valve, and it's kind of tricky getting the park rod back into place once you've removed it. If you're not 100% comfortable with going into an automatic trans, I'd suggest taking it to somebody who is.
Quote:
6. The manual valve is in the valve body, and it's the valve that is directly moved by the shift lever.
This confuses me. In one of the pics above, it shows the valve somewhere between the hard line and rubber line near the radiator. Maybe I'm mixing up part names, though. I thought the Sonnex valve was the one in the pics and waht was being referred to as the manual valve.

Quote:
The overnight fluid leak is more than likely going to be the seal where the manual lever (the lever that attaches to the manual valve) passes through the case.
That's one of the seals that was replaced.

Quote:
Mine used to leak if it sat for a couple of days, came to find out my breather was stopped up and after I fixed that it hasn't done it since
We have a new 4X4 shop in town and I talked to the owner about my issue the other day. He said the same thing. They were chasing a leak all over the place and turned out to be a mud dauber nest in the vent tube. This not out of the realm of possibility for mine but the hesitation upon start up makes me lean toward the valve or another issue.

Thanks, everyone!
08-18-2013 09:54 AM
98 tj sport Mine used to leak if it sat for a couple of days, came to find out my breather was stopped up and after I fixed that it hasn't done it since
08-18-2013 09:25 AM
KenG Thank you. Thats what i did until I got it fixed. Still works great today.
08-18-2013 08:39 AM
solman Great find KenG! I'll be ordering those parts this week for my tj, I've just been putting it in neutral every time I started it.
08-17-2013 10:46 PM
Riptide63 1. On models with the 32RH it's where the rubber line connects to the metal line. I can't speak for the 04 & later Overdrive models, as I have no hands-on with those.
2. The line goes along the drivers side of the engine beside the oil pan, the check valve screws onto the front of the metal line.
3. The only part of the line I replaced was the check valve itself.
4. Just going out on a limb here, but I'm guessing the aftermarket cooler won't have a check valve of it's own.
5. Other than the valve, filter & fluid, that's about it. Mine had a Mopar reusable pan gasket. If that's what yours has, I suggest staying with it, as I had issues with the rubber gasket that came with my filter leaking afterwards. Valve body removal is required to do the Sonnax manual valve, and it's kind of tricky getting the park rod back into place once you've removed it. If you're not 100% comfortable with going into an automatic trans, I'd suggest taking it to somebody who is.
6. The manual valve is in the valve body, and it's the valve that is directly moved by the shift lever.

The overnight fluid leak is more than likely going to be the seal where the manual lever (the lever that attaches to the manual valve) passes through the case.
08-17-2013 09:43 PM
Wordgie Threadsurrection.

I've got all the same symptoms. Fluid leaks after sitting over night or longer (mine isn't a daily driver so it sits for days or weeks at a time), hesitation out of park but otherwise no adverse driving behaviors.

I've taken it to a trans shop several times where a bunch of seals have been replaced. During the last trip there over a year ago, he mentioned the vslve inside the torque converter, but didn't want to do that until he could rule out seller issues. Since then I found out about the check valve and I'm convinced that's my problem.

Here are my questions.

1. Is the check valve in the rubber or metal line?
2. This is the passenger side, right?
3. When changing the whole line, is it replaced from the radiator back or just the hard line back?
4. If I went with an aftermarket trans cooler, will that line have its own check valve or will I need to still replace the line?
5. Is there a write up/complete parts list on the Sonnex valve install?
6. What is meant by "manual valve"?
12-02-2012 09:43 AM
Riptide63 Update: The check valve didn't solve the noise issue I mentioned in my previous post, but the Sonnax 22771-09 manual valve did. The new manual valve charges the converter in Park and does away with the need for the check valve.
10-29-2012 07:39 PM
KenG No problem. I'm just glad that I can pass on some useful info.
10-27-2012 03:33 PM
Riptide63 Just wanted to say thanks to KenG for posting that part number. Lots of conflicting info out there on this notorious check valve. My local dealer said the lines were available separate, but had no knowledge of the check valve. My current Jeep hasn't developed the delay just yet, but I can hear the pump cavitate for about a half-second the first time I start it up in the mornings. The cooler the temperature, the louder it is. If I start it in Neutral, it's dead quiet. Been looking at different options including the Sonnax manual valve, but prefer to keep it simple.
10-23-2012 03:11 PM
yamahawho
trans in drive all the time

i have a problem with this jeep i bought its an 84 cj7 it has a chevy 383 in it with dana out of 3/4 chevy in it . i got the jeep because alot of the foot work is done on it already . the kicker is it has an adaptor plate on it with and dodge or jeep tranny . heres my issue . every gear and i mean every gear i put it in is drive . i can put it in park and it will hold it there but you can still here the load on it . i took valve body out cleaned it all up i adjusted the bands correctly i think . put it all back together and same thing maybe a little better seems like it goes in reverse but just sounds like i have my foot on the brake and it goes no where . the other issue is i dont know exactly what trans is in there , i thought it was a 904 but after looking and looking at pictures and diagrams it looks to be a 32rh . any help would be appreciated . the wife and kids cant wait to get dirty .
08-09-2012 06:46 AM
KenG I would've done it you way if I needed rebuilt. Sounds like you have a quality shop.
08-08-2012 09:55 PM
autopc25
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenG View Post
Ya that sounds like a more solid way of doing it. I talked with one of our trans shops, but didnt like theyre answer. They didnt recommend even installing one. Wasnt clear on his thought process. Seems to be working fine. And that noise hasnt happened again since this morning. I wouldve rather not had to use clamps, but wasnt going to take it to a shop for that.
I read some people think the valve can get stuck and prevent fluid from getting to the cooler which can cause fluid to run hot and burn up the trans. I asked my shop about that and they felt it was not a concern if the parts are good quality and the work is done right. They have seen valves that are leaking or stuck open but not closed. My transmission with the valve lasted 160K before a rebuild was needed and they are giving me a 36 month warranty on the rebuild so I have faith in them and their opinion.
08-08-2012 09:24 PM
KenG Well im not sure, it didnt do it before i put the valve in. And yes i found out the same info about the torque converter. Im definitely no expert, but i swear it shifts and works better. I took a drive this afternoon and it worked flawlessly.
08-08-2012 09:20 PM
KenG Ya that sounds like a more solid way of doing it. I talked with one of our trans shops, but didnt like theyre answer. They didnt recommend even installing one. Wasnt clear on his thought process. Seems to be working fine. And that noise hasnt happened again since this morning. I wouldve rather not had to use clamps, but wasnt going to take it to a shop for that.
08-08-2012 09:17 PM
autopc25
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenG View Post
Will do. Did notice one thing. I drove it around some more, and don't know if its my imagination, but it shifts so much better, hold first and second gear longer on a load and doesnt lurch or hit as hard putting into gear. But when I got home and went into reverse I noticed what sounds like a burst of air. Kinda like release of pressure. But it only did it once. So We'll see. Theres only one way to put that valve in.
I learned a little about the 30RH and 32RH after getting mine rebuilt. The shift times are controlled by the throttle valve cable. The valve keeps the fluid from draining out of the torque converter after sitting for long periods of time. The trans would work the same with or without the valve after the torque converter is filled. The converter should get filled after a few seconds even without the valve once the trans pump starts to pump. The pump starts when you put it into gear or neutral. It does not pump in park. It must regulate flow though because the shop pressure checked the line after splicing in my valve?

I had 160K miles on my trans before the rebuild. My trans used to lurch or slam a little when I put it in reverse or gear before the rebuild. It does not do that anymore after the rebuild, with or without the valve.

The burst of air does not sound right. Are you sure it is related to your trans?
08-08-2012 09:02 PM
autopc25 I finally took my TJ back to the trans shop last Tues for the valve. It's a very common problem and shops know how to fix the problem with OEM and aftermarket parts. Like I said before there were 2 options. I thought both were dealer options before. One is a aftermarket part. A new line with the valve inside or just a valve that has to be spliced into the existing line. I think the new line is a factory Mopar part. Cost was something like $100 retail or $74 wholesale jobber price. I went with the separate valve that had to be spliced in for $8. I think the valve is aftermarket. It is made by Sonnex and ordered through a company that supplies transmission parts to shops, Trans Star Industries. The part number is #A367610. The valve is inside a metal housing and a compression fitting so it is installed like a metal brake line using a flaring tool so no hose clamps. It is spliced right into the metal part of the line. The shop measured the trans fluid overnight and pressure checked it to make sure the valve worked and checked for leaks. No problems. All I had to pay for was $8 for the valve, the shop installed for me as part of the rebuild.

To be honest the factory Mopar line and built in valve might end up costing the same if you had to pay someone to do the labor of cutting, flaring, splicing in the valve in? It's not hard to do, it's just like splicing a metal brake line. It is a solid connection without clamps though. It's nice to have a option if you are handy.
08-08-2012 08:19 AM
KenG PERFECT!! Started it up after sitting for 14 hours, which is plenty long for mine. Put it in reverse and worked like a brand new tranny. It shifts better and acts like new. Im guessing that the valve also regulates the flow, and before without it was a free for all. But i still have the noise like a pressure release when i put it into reverse from drive, but not all the time. I'll investigate that a little more. Dont want to ruin the trans.
08-07-2012 09:03 PM
KenG Will do. Did notice one thing. I drove it around some more, and don't know if its my imagination, but it shifts so much better, hold first and second gear longer on a load and doesnt lurch or hit as hard putting into gear. But when I got home and went into reverse I noticed what sounds like a burst of air. Kinda like release of pressure. But it only did it once. So We'll see. Theres only one way to put that valve in.
08-07-2012 08:50 PM
Plowboy1970 Ya, let me know. If mine sits over night, 12 hours, it is fine and moves, but 24 hours, It will slip for 3-4 seconds until it wants to go.
08-07-2012 08:39 PM
Jerry Bransford Very nice find and fix, certainly better than replacing the lines.
08-07-2012 06:14 PM
KenG Today I got the oil cooler pressure valve in. I have restored my confidence in my dealer. They were able to find a diagram of where its supposed to be. The other thing I had to purchase was a barb tite fitting to screw to the end of the valve so I can attach it to the line. Rubber hosed it on either end. Got it installed and took it for a drive. So far no leaks and everything is operating as should be. Now the test is to let it sit overnight. I'll know for sure in the morning when I take it to work. If this works, and I think it will, this route is a lot cheaper then buying the lines. The valve was 46.65 from the dealer. Part # 55116910AA. The barb tite was part #677.04.66. Not sure if thats a dealer specific or nation wide. Was in a bin. That was 5.90. Total with tax 56.91. Heres a couple pics. I want to thank everyone for they're input, it was and is valuable to me. I'll do a quick post tomorrow and tell if it works.
08-05-2012 03:18 PM
KenG Yes i checked and thats when the parts guy said he can get me the valve for 46 and change. The second time i called them, a different parts guy said i can drop the tranny and put a live kit in it. And again was told mine didnt have one. He checked for bulletins and didnt see one. My son, working at oriellys in mahattan ks and student, found a bulletin about it in about 5 min. No confidence in my local dealer. I mustve been typing it it wrong on the internet. I was looking for transmission cooling lines. Kept getting me fittings. I'll check out the website and hopefully get what i need. Thanks again for the info
08-05-2012 02:30 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenG View Post
Im not having any luck finding the cooler lines for sale. Where did you find them for 90?
Please tell us that you checked with the dealer. Mine had no problem getting my cooler lines for me.
08-05-2012 01:16 PM
Plowboy1970 I found this for my 97

Oil Cooler Lines. Fits: 1997 JEEP WRANGLER 4.0L I6 Power Tech, 3-Spd. Automatic 32RH | FACTORY CHRYSLER PARTS
08-05-2012 10:00 AM
KenG Im not having any luck finding the cooler lines for sale. Where did you find them for 90?
08-05-2012 09:57 AM
Plowboy1970 My 32RH does the same. I am interested if this fixes it.
08-05-2012 09:48 AM
KenG This is what i'm getting at. Dealer here says one thing and you guys are saying something different. Im taking your words over the dealer. Let me know how it turns out. I really appreciate the input.
08-05-2012 12:28 AM
autopc25 I have a 30RH not a 34RH but they should be close? I had my trans rebuilt and my check valve was damaged. It was a plastic ball inside the driver-side line. The valve and line must have been updated a few times because the dealer had several part numbers that were updated from the original part numbers. The shop called the dealer and found 2 options. A entire line with the check valve inside of it and just the check valve. I think the check valve is a retrofitted part? The entire line was about $90 and just the check valve was $10. The trans shop said they could cut the line and splice in the $10 check valve with hose clamps. I am supposed to stop back at the shop next week when the check valve is in. I will see if they have the actual part number. The benefit of the entire line and built in check valve is one less hose clamp to fail or leak.
08-04-2012 05:21 PM
Jerry Bransford I dunno but I've worked with three different sets of cooler lines and all had check valves inside them whose fittings were swaged onto the hard lines and not separately replaceable. On the lines I installed, the check valves were internal and they were not removable/installable or sold separately... which leads me to believe the parts guy you talked with thinks they don't have one because there probably is no separate part number for the check valve itself. In the FSM, it says the transmission coolant lines are only available as complete pre-assembled units with nothing being separately replaceable or available.

COOLER LINE AND FITTING SERVICE
The cooler lines and fittings are NOT serviceable .
Damaged fittings or cooler lines are to be replaced as
assemblies.
Fittings swedged into cooler line hoses are serviced
only as part of the entire cooler line.
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