|04-07-2014 12:26 PM|
Chop, where did you get the new E. brake lines?
I assume you got new ones...
I'm thinking of doing this to my TJ after EJS.
|03-31-2014 10:05 AM|
|OverkillYJ||I am curious why you went with a CV shaft. I plan on stretching my YJ. Goal is to reduce the driveline angle so I can get away with a 1350 straight shaft and do away with the CV. I have not decided if I will do a complete tub and frame stretch, but after reading every word of this entire thread it is much more likely I will.|
|03-25-2014 07:41 PM|
Out of curiosity what welder do you use?
|02-18-2014 01:03 PM|
|02-17-2014 08:29 PM|
Nice…love to see your progress as yours inspired my build! I drove mine across the parking lot today after 5.5 months…can't imagine waiting 1.5 years!!
Just signed up for Jeep Beach in Daytona…you should attend!
|02-17-2014 08:11 PM|
While the frame is getting fixed, I took the opportunity to cut some sheet metal for the sides of the tub.
I can't wait to ge my Jeep back. There is still quite a lot to do, but it does feel like I am getting closer to completing this. To add to my excitemnet, the Olive Drab Monstaliner arrived today!! Woohoo!! :2thumbsup:
|02-17-2014 08:11 PM|
To make it easy on the folks at the frame shop to remove the rear portion of the tub while still having functional brake lights, I used a six pin Deutch connector to tie in the extended electrical rail.
After charging the battery overnight, I placed it back on the Heep and what do you know? It drives! Drove it right out of the garage! There were no exhaust leaks but one of the fuel line connections had a slight leak. I tightened it up some more and it ran like a champ. Huge milestone.
The drive was mostly uneventful, except for the big gap on the floor and the temporary cardboard sides threatened to blow away. Brakes are functional, no wobbles from the track bar, I do need a serious steering alignment after putting in the OME lift... Drove slow the whole way, I am surprised I didn't get pulled over by the fuzz. Yes, I did put the driver's seat and seat belt back in.
|02-17-2014 08:08 PM|
To attach the rollbar extensions, I used 6 inch long 2" diameter inserts with the same wall thickness as the factory rollbar. I also drilled some plug weld holes for additional hold.
Clamped things down, measured and remeasured to confirm the extension sections are straight and true...
Once my extensions are welded in, it becomes pretty obvious that my earlier goof with the frame is messing with the tub alignment.
The cheap option is to shim the body mounts and get on with my life. Unfortunately, this will bug me and knaw away inside of me for many years. If only I hade been a perfectionist back when it really counted; when the frame was being put together.
So I decided to go with the more expensive option and take the Jeep to the frame shop. Luckily the frame shop is only five minutes away from my house and is run by a trusted shop owner. It is the perfect opportunity to test drive the Jeep after one and a half years of sitting idle.
|01-21-2014 06:20 PM|
|01-20-2014 07:49 PM|
|00tj2||I'm in the middle of a rear axle swap before I do my stretch and looking back on your pictures I can't believe how clean your frame is!!! I'm so pissed at the snow and salt of the northeast. Keep up the good work!! Can't wait to see the finished product!|
|01-19-2014 09:17 PM|
I pulled my exhaust to complete the welds. I will media blast the joints and paint them for rust protection. Here is a view of the assembled exhaust system after the cat connection:
I also finally got around to putting the tub back on the frame.
The wheel well spaces look huge with the highline and the 33" tires on the OME 2.5 inch lift. I eventually want to go to 35's.
The build is getting pretty exciting now!
|01-06-2014 10:03 PM|
Nothing too exciting to report. I finished all of the electrical splices, fuel line and brake line extensions. BTW, the 5/16" stock fuel line is a pain to flare. I have a bunch of leftover 5/16" and 3/16" steel flare line fittings if anyone is in need of some.
Also, redid the exhaust piping and installed a new muffler.
And here is the completed suspension and drivetrain.
Now all I need is a buddy to help me pick up the rear tub section and place it back on the frame mounts for some sheet metal work.
|01-06-2014 09:54 PM|
|12-28-2013 08:39 PM|
I keep forgetting to sub to this build.
|12-09-2013 01:32 PM|
|12-09-2013 10:02 AM|
|TJK8||We have progress! Looking good...I'll have all the suspension and tummy tuck work to do after my bodywork is done. You may be smarter knocking it out before your body work.|
|12-08-2013 10:03 PM|
|chop110||Aww crud, I spelled out "phased" when it should have read "fazed" ...|
|12-08-2013 09:19 PM|
Once the shock mounts are tacked in and the springs are out, I can cycle the shocks from full bump to full extension to check for clearances...
Looks like we clear the installed tire too:
Once I am happy with all tolerances, I finish all of my welds.
I notched a piece of 3/16" angle iron and welded it to the back of the shock towers for strength. In practicality, this is not necessary for most people out there. In my case, there is the possibility that I may have to take my Jeep to a frame straightening machine to fix my 1/2" frame deflection. After taking a chunk out of my frame for the shock outboarding, I didn't want to leave less section modulus at these locations so that they end up being the only spots that do any of the "fix" bending.
|12-08-2013 09:00 PM|
I finally got around to outboarding the rear shocks.
I fancy myself to be somewhat of a fabricator. Ha! In the image below, you can see the lower shock mounts being made from square tube. The design is very similar to what can be found in some of the kits out there. I sized mine for the 1/2" pins on the Rancho RS999005 Shocks.
Here is view of the lower mount installed, as well as a chunck of the frame gone (After chopping the frame for the extensions, this didn't phase me in the least) to make room for some Ford shock towers. There are a ton of threads out in the forums that served as go-by's and I am thankful to every one of them.
Speaking of the Ford shock towers... I also have Blaine's handy notch in them. Although in my case, it is more for ease of assembly than weld penetration. With the tub out of the way, I have the luxury of being able to weld all around without obstruction.
|12-08-2013 08:45 PM|
I got my Tom Woods extended drive shaft in. Mine ended up being 32 1/4 inches.
Installed. Trully a thing of beauty.
|12-08-2013 08:37 PM|
|12-07-2013 08:58 AM|
|solman||How is the build coming along? I miss driving mine, hopefully it will be back on the road in another month or two.|
|11-14-2013 01:52 PM|
|11-11-2013 05:16 PM|
|TJK8||Nice build...definitely inspired me to chop mine in half!|
|11-02-2013 03:58 PM|
I fabricated my trackbar mount from scrap 2 x 3 x 3/16" tube I had from my crossmember build...
Here is the bracket welded in place with the track bar attached, ready for clearance testing.
At full bump, the top of the track barely touches the frame crossmember. It should be noted that I have 4" of bumpstops for my rear coils.
If I had an acetalyne torch, I would have heated the rod so I could have bended it a little and thus to improve clearance (Like Unlimited04 did on his setup... incidentally, I got the idea from him). This will be ok for now, I suppose.
Check out the reversed brake calipers courtesy of Mr. Blaine's kit.
|11-02-2013 03:56 PM|
And now comes a little work with Admiral Trackbar (It's a track! ...bar)
I wanted an adjustable rear track bar with an angled relocation bracket for the different pinion angle of my SYE equipped axle. I also wanted a johnny joint at the axle end of the track bar. However, I did not want to pay +$300 for a Currie setup, which woul have been my next choice. I chose to modify my existing rear track bar as follows:
Welded two halves of a 1/8" thick tube as a sleeve on the factory track bar. I also welded the halves longitudinally along the edges, not just the ends. Ground everything smooth...
Welded 1/4" thick tube sleeve over the new 1/8" material so that a 1 1/4" diameter welded bung would fit in the bigger tube as shown below. Note the setup was sized for a johhny joint.
Finished product next to the original. Painting is next.
Johnny joint = $50
Welded bung = $35
Misc steel tubing = $30
Total comes out to $115. Saved myself around $200. Yay me.
|11-02-2013 03:55 PM|
Upper coil perches relocated! Bump stops really line up better.
I also took some time to reverse the rear calipers to make more room for the outboarded lower shock mounts.
|09-03-2013 08:30 AM|
|SuperTJ||Very nice work!|
|09-03-2013 08:24 AM|
|09-01-2013 10:17 PM|
I am chomping at the bit to get back to the actual TJ-6 body stretch, but several things must happen before then...
... Such as axle work! While I was busy with the crossmember, a long awaited component finally arrived. G2 really knows how to put together a Dana44:
I will be outboarding the shocks and shifting back the upper spring perches/buckets. I used a grinder and a dremel with a cut wheel to remove them from the rear frame arches.
Whacked off upper coil buckets. Need some serious cleaning...
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