|02-25-2014 01:38 PM|
|J33P4X4||Also, summitracing.com doesn't show them as being compatible with the Wrangler. I'm not sure if that was an over site tho?|
|02-25-2014 01:29 PM|
|02-25-2014 01:15 PM|
While searching for an identification for the LED headlights on the Rugged Ridge build that have the LED projector with the LED Halo ring, which I found over at 7" 11 High Power LED Crystal Headlight United Pacific
also in black 7" UNIVERSAL LED HEADLIGHT (HIGH & LOW BEAM / BLACK REFLECTOR)
I also came across the Maxxima headlights:
MHL-07HILO:┬*7" Round Dual Beam Headlamp
Anyone have any information on these?
|02-01-2014 08:44 PM|
|01-14-2014 12:55 AM|
I did the same thing here:
|01-14-2014 12:30 AM|
|Moto_Mike||Hey guys. Hope this isn't too good to be true, but I just found a set of JW Speaker 6145 fog lights in black from shopjeepparts .com for $170. I am hoping it's not a typo because this is cheaper than most places have been selling the individual fog lights for. Just wanted to share in case anyone else is thinking about taking the JW Speaker plunge. Will need to do a lot more shopping to try to find a decent deal on the headlights now. I'll follow up when they arrive!|
|12-30-2013 01:24 PM|
|TRAUMAhead||Got any cut off or night shots?|
|12-30-2013 09:32 AM|
|Tink5775||Got the Hella's from Susquehanna/RallyLights, they came with the full H4 harness so I can go with pretty much any bulb I want without worrying about the wiring.|
|12-29-2013 06:22 PM|
|TRAUMAhead||I went with Truck-Lites and the RallyLights harness, disappointed so far. Previously had cheap eBay HIDs that were brighter with a better spread but worse cut off. If the TLs don't grow on me, going to go back to halogens with Hella E-codes or SMS bi-halogen lamps.|
|12-29-2013 02:08 PM|
Coming to the Jeep from a 2011 Volvo the headlights are rather depressing. They really don't seem any better than those on the 94 Montero that I drove before the 2 1/2 year side trip with the Volvo.
My other thought was that 7" LED headlights have been available for a short time in comparison to other types of headlights. We only have two suppliers, one of which is priced out of my budget range. This technology is going to get better and cheaper.
E spec headlights have benefited from 40 years of development, so reflector design has gotten very good. If you find you need more light, you could use a relay to provide more voltage to your lights. It would be a rather simple second upgrade. However would reduce lamp life.
That's my plan at this point. I plan on having my JK for a long time, so a upgrade to LED when the technology improves, is likely.
|12-29-2013 10:38 AM|
Hilly, Windy Conditions
New member and poster here.
Don't mean to hijack the thread or repost something that has already been posted.
I've reviewed all the headlights threads I could including usmcdoc's JK headlight shootout. I really appreciate all the expertise and testing done by people like Hilldweller.
I've narrowed my upgrade down to either the Northridge Truck Lite package with the modulators or the Susquehanna Hella e-code upgrade. I'm leaning towards the TL's at the moment.
I flip flop every hour on these choices. One big concern I have is driving on windy, hilly roads. We were driving our Acura the other week with HID projectors on some dark, hilly, windy roads and the abrupt cut-off made the drive very unnerving because we couldn't see where the road would lead after a dip. We had to slow down. I don't like going slow.
Does anybody have any insight or experience with the TL's in these conditions?
I've seen conflicting messages about these kinds of conditions. The promo shots looks okay and I remember someone loving the TL's while driving in Colorado but some of the limited videos I've seen have not been impressive.
Thanks in advance for the help.
|11-18-2013 05:50 PM|
|IP0VV3R||Does anyone have a wiring diagram for rigid dually's? It'd be much appreciated|
|11-12-2013 08:32 PM|
|kjb914||I have a 13 JKUR I put Jw Speakers 8700 Evo's in about 8 months ago. The flicker is getting slightly worse so I got the TL anti flicker harness. But now when my jeeps off and locked and I go to unlock it with the remote …it looks like a fu**Kin dance party!! Full strobe light until I turn it on. I'd rather deal with the slight flicker… Has this happened to anyone else???|
|11-11-2013 09:42 AM|
|11-10-2013 02:12 AM|
|Brad01||How the hell do I install my truck lite fogs that I up just received today??????|
|11-05-2013 01:27 AM|
Here's all the info if you're interested:
|11-04-2013 05:10 AM|
I have had Truck lights on my past jeep, i have to say HID is the way to go.
It has alot wider and brighter beam pattern, and you have manage to adjust the pattern yourself like the stock lights incase if you lift your jeep higher (lower the pattern a bit).
Among the temparature, i always get 4300k-5000k, this way its not too ricey like civic 8000k HID more like lexus HID with halogen lights. And this comparison wins because its like $500 versus $50.
|10-30-2013 11:19 PM|
Anyone have the KC Hilites replacement LED headlights?
How would they compare to the trucklites?
|10-30-2013 11:26 AM|
So how would they organize things in Santa Clarita?
By brand? By lumens? By price? Then I'd still have to read all the sub-threads to compare.
I still agree there is a divergence of interests here. Maybe a breakdown for "Off road" and "On road"? Then maybe an off-road breakout between lights that need other mods, like wiring harnesses and diodes, and more straightforward applications like replacing OEM fog lamps with LEDs? But then I don't know what to call that sub-thread.
Like all message boards, this one is not easily searchable, but I can't think of a simple way to make it so.
|10-17-2013 07:55 PM|
|10-16-2013 12:57 AM|
Too many posts and pages to read all this stuff so, at the risk of posting something that's already been posted:
* I highly recommend you contact Wil at Rally Lights, Hella, TerraTrip, Hans, WRC, ZAMP - RallyLights.com (Susquehanna Motorsports) - they make great products and they know their stuff and they'll talk to you about what they know and take the time to explain it.
* I have heard that Daniel Stern buys his harnesses from them. You can do that too if you're so inclined.
* I bought my headlight replacements from them - Hella E-Code lights with Xenon +50% bulbs (white not blue). They work great and are far less than the Truck-Lites and Speakers. (I have plenty of LEDs to supplement my headlights so I feel no need to spend hundreds on my headlights).
Oh, and if this is the "official light thread" it's (IMO) almost useless. Who can spend the time to read it all?! Separate threads based on subject/mod are infinitely better.
|10-14-2013 11:07 PM|
Oh, I see what you are trying to do now. I didn't realize the relay would get fried from the PWM. I hadn't seen that before. Those uses of the caps are to fix flickering headlights, but I guess they would smooth the feed to the relay just as well.
|10-14-2013 10:20 PM|
I may have answered my own Q -- found this wisdom buried in the thread:
<<< For the buzzing relays, all you need is a capacitor in parallel with the lowbeam line coming from the H13 connector. I'm not sure what value you need to use but I've seen 4700uf being used to smooth out DRLs. Im sure it can smooth out a notchy lowbeam too. >>>
Is that all, folks? In my case I'd use it on the highs, of course...
|10-14-2013 09:44 PM|
Hi beam wire to control DL relay?
I agree 100% tapping the hi beam wire to control my relay is what I wanted to do. But according to the thread, it seems if I do that I'll burn out my relay due to the pulsed current (from the hi beam wire I tap) hitting my relay. Right? Or is the power feed to the hi beam not affected by PWM? If not, I'm fine. But I thought that was the case.
So I think I need a solution to getting non-PWM'd controlling voltage at my relay. Which seems to be the cap/diode solution. I'm happy to do that, I'm just not sure where in the KC harness to use them. As I have the KC harness which includes fuse, relay holder, relay, miles of cased wire, etc., I'm hoping to modify that rather than make my own.
Maybe my best bet is to just make all the connections without installing anything, and see if the relay buzzes or the lights flicker. There's certainly nothing on Quadratec or Amazon about this issue (yet).
|10-14-2013 04:28 PM|
I may be missing something here, but I think you are looking at the wrong solution here. You could use an SMS type harness, but not the one we usually talk about here because it is for the headlights. The cap/diode solution you are talking about is to cure the pulse width modulation (PWM) issue with the power feed to the headlight. You don't want that. You want to take the signal for the high beam, use it to turn on a relay, and have that relay powered straight off the battery. You could buy a harness to do this, but it is pretty straightforward to make one.
Basically it would be just like your diagram you linked, but using the high beam switch instead of a normal switch.
|10-14-2013 10:31 AM|
Q re: TLGA harness
My situation is I'm not touching my '13 JKUR's headlights (at the moment). I just want to install a set of KC Slimlites to switch on/off with my hi beams for better lighting offroad and back roads in Maine. As I understand from hours of reading this thread beginning to end, I need to cure the WPM coming from the high beam signal wire or it'll fry my included KC relay (quickly or eventually). Correct? So, the Q is will this harness work like a SMS one? I assume NOT, because this adapts the wiring to a new socket type (H13 to H4).
Thus, seems like my choices are go SMS or solder in the cap/diode solution. Does that make sense to the gurus here? If I am using the KC harness*, can anyone ID the wires between which I need to solder the cap/diode? I would REALLY appreciate that help. Thanks much.
*KC harness instrux/diagram:
|10-05-2013 04:18 PM|
My 2012 Rubicon needed better lights for drives on dark mountain roads.
Wanted something stealthy and close to stock look. Got the bi-halogen Hella headlight replacemet set up from SMS. Works great for me with razor sharp focus.
|09-22-2013 08:09 PM|
He, DS knows his stuff but seems like an ass. I'm sure there are other lights and experts that will do the job just as well. He could have used his knowledge and virbiage more effectively if he wasn't a dickhead and perhaps tried teaching instead of bullying.
|09-22-2013 08:00 PM|
Right there with you. The guy sounds like an ass.
|09-18-2013 07:41 PM|
Any expert in their field should have the ability to take a concept and explain it in a way in which the layman can understand.
I see it done every single day by people with credentials that dwarf yourself's and Dan's. Actually, a doctorate candidate with a B.S. in Electrical Engineering, and a Masters in Theoretical Physics (a true expert) was explaining dark matter to me last week. Yet, yourself and Dan completely refuse to and instead say "trust us". So please, go ahead and explain exactly why the Morimotos are inferior. Do you think that the explanation is above understanding? Because I don't think it is if you have a valid argument. Elaborate on what is technically wrong with them.
I'm not sure if you gentlemen consider yourself superior to the masses and unworthy of your explanation, or if you do not have an argument at all.
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