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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-21-2008 10:51 PM
06R1Raven01TJ Jerry, why do the bosch plus 4's wear out quick? I just installed them in my 01 with a 6 cyl. and it runs way smoother and I get better gas milage. I only put them in 400 miles ago though?
10-21-2008 10:41 PM
sailsurf7713
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgano23 View Post
There's your problem... you put champion plugs in. Trust me on this Champion plugs are terrible. you could have gotten better spark if you shit in the holes. but i digress. try bosch or ngk. champion and autolite (especially ones from walmart) are not very good. Just because the oem plugs are champion doesn't mean they are good. i cant stress enough not to use champion.
It all depends on what its going into. I believe the OEM plug for his motor is an NGK, which is a very good plug, probably of better quality than champion. He probably should switch.

However my 15 hp Johnson outboard runs much better on the OEM specified champions than the equivalent NGKs. Haven't tried anything but champion in my jeep, but ran cheap autolites from wal-mart a heat range colder than OEM in my Dakota and it ran much better and had less pre-detonation due to the readily available colder heat range that was caused by the keg style intake manifold.

So far I like the champions, but seeing as how I get a killer discount on NGKs I'll try them on your behalf when the time comes.
10-21-2008 10:28 PM
whiteyj I have been pleased with the champions in my 4.0L. Going on 20k since I purchased and swapped in new plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
10-21-2008 09:38 PM
jpdocdave thank daimler for that one.
10-21-2008 08:21 PM
bigchris chrysler specs ngk v-power plugs (zfr5n) for the 4.0L. every vehicle i own runs only ngk v-powers. (IMO) ngk is the best all around plug. i know some may dissagree. but it's my .02.

"PLEASE PROVIDE A COPY OF THIS SHEET TO THE SERVICING TECHNICIAN.
PRIOR TO ORDERING THIS PART, THE FOLLOWING MUST BE VERIFIED:

Tech Tip Part Description: 4.0L SPARK PLUGS

Tech Tip Description: Spark plug SP000ZFR5N has replaced SP0RC12ECC for all applicable 4.0L engine vehicles, except the R1. Any current stock on the SP0RC12ECC can continue to be used on all models through 2003 model year until depleted, at which time SP000ZFR5N should be used. SP000ZFR5N is the only spark plug that can be used for 2004 model year 4.0L engines."

______________________________________

Contact Us at CAGRIS@Chrysler.com for feedback related to this GPOP Tech Tip. Please include the Part Number (s) and Tech Tip Part Description of the Tech Tip you are referencing for our tracking system.
10-21-2008 08:04 PM
jpdocdave i gotta agree with jerry and everyone on here will. in a jeep, champion is the way to go.

espedially nowadays, its always best to go with the oe recomendations on plugs. now i would never put a champion in a honda or toyota, or anything that didn't come with them.
10-21-2008 07:43 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingP View Post
Thanks for the help. It is running smoothly now, as long as I'm not stopped. It seems to idle very low, about 200 rpm when I'm stopped and push the clutch in - almost stalling, but hasn't yet. Rolling w/ clutch in, the rpms are normal, at about 800. I've disconnected the battery to clear codes several times. Could this be related to the ecu adjusting?
More likely just a dirty IAC (idle air controller) which is what provides the engine ALL of its air when your foot is not stepping on the accelerator pedal. When it sticks, it doesn't let enough air in which causes a low idle. You may be able to fix it by thoroughly cleaning the throttle body's interior with a good throttle body cleaner which will get into where the IAC is bolted to it. When cleaning, concentrate some of the throttle body cleaner spray directly into the idle air control passage inlet (see the below diagram). If not, the IAC will need to be removed and cleaned (you clean the solenoid actuated plunger that protrudes out of it) with the same aerosol throttle body cleaner and a cloth or soft toothbrush. The IAC seldom ever needs replacing, cleaning is all it normally needs to restore it back to good operating health. It's held to the throttle body with two small torx-head screws that are Lockited into position so you'll need a fresh sharp torx adapter to get them out. They can strip out so make sure to hold the torx wrench square to the bolt head and hold it firmly into the screws so it won't slip out and strip them. I use a 1/4" ratchet wrench for this job.
10-21-2008 07:36 PM
jgano23 no the plus2 dont work i learned that the hard way (i've never tried the plus4 cause of the plus2 prob). but i personally dont think champions work at all. i make twice as much on a champion plug but when my customers ask for them i strongly advise against them. i would rather sell a plug that works. just my assessment though
10-21-2008 07:25 PM
FlyingP Thanks for the help. It is running smoothly now, as long as I'm not stopped. It seems to idle very low, about 200 rpm when I'm stopped and push the clutch in - almost stalling, but hasn't yet. Rolling w/ clutch in, the rpms are normal, at about 800. I've disconnected the battery to clear codes several times. Could this be related to the ecu adjusting?
10-21-2008 06:55 PM
Jerry Bransford Very few people will agree with your assessment of Champion or Autolites. And so you know, Bosch Plus2 and Plus4 plugs don't work well for very long in the 4.0L engine.
10-21-2008 06:20 PM
jgano23 Oh i guess i should have read the other posts. i'm glad that you figured out the problem. but i still think for next time go with the bosch or ngk they last longer too.
10-21-2008 06:17 PM
jgano23 There's your problem... you put champion plugs in. Trust me on this Champion plugs are terrible. you could have gotten better spark if you shit in the holes. but i digress. try bosch or ngk. champion and autolite (especially ones from walmart) are not very good. Just because the oem plugs are champion doesn't mean they are good. i cant stress enough not to use champion.
10-20-2008 07:44 PM
jpdocdave glad to help, glad it was an easy one. so you're back up and runnin good?
10-20-2008 07:25 PM
FlyingP gotta get good gaps! Gracias Guys!
10-20-2008 04:14 PM
FlyingP Thanks, I was getting a misfire on 1 so I pulled the plug, and there is almost no gap. I can't measure it, I didn't even own a plug socket until yesterday, but I would say its < 1/2 millimeter. I'm assuming i collapsed the gap by over tightening. That would make sense to me. The plugs I used are fine? I put the old one back in, see if i can limp to autozone before 5.
10-20-2008 04:09 PM
Jerry Bransford #6 is closest to the windshield.
10-20-2008 04:07 PM
jpdocdave 1 is towards the front 6 is at the firewall. did you check the gap on the plugs before you put them in, or drop one while putting it in, sometimes the gap gets screwed up. you can't screw up the firing order at least
10-20-2008 04:04 PM
FlyingP Is cylinder 1 closest to the windshield, or is that 6?
10-20-2008 03:50 PM
FlyingP I installed Champion Copper Plus 438 RC12ECC. I was just sure to push the coil pack back on tight, bolt it down...
10-20-2008 03:31 PM
Jerry Bransford Exactly what plugs did you install? Your engine does not have a distributor so it is fairly fussy about its spark plugs. You got the coil packs reinstalled properly?
10-20-2008 03:16 PM
FlyingP
Throw me a bone...

So the dealership wanted to replace the plugs, call it a tune up and charge me $75. I figured I could do that, I own a socket set so i went off and bought the oem plugs for a 01 sport.
I installed them, drove about 1/8th mile and got all a cel, jeep was clearly running very rough. Did the key trick, multiple misfires.
Looked it over again and things seemed a little loose, so I gave everything another crank. Then I drove it 10 miles, it ran pretty smoothly, didn't throw any cels, but didn't seem as smooth as original. Today, it gave me a code right after startup. Is it possible i overtightened the plugs? What are the chances of buying a bad plug?Thanks

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