Jeep Wrangler Forum - Reply to Topic
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Tech Forum > Mis matched spring rates front/ rear? bad?

Join Wrangler Forum Today

Thread: Mis matched spring rates front/ rear? bad? Reply to Thread
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
10-27-2008 10:39 AM
Originally Posted by j.amrol View Post
hey again, I've got all the hardware for sway bar disconnects but either I'm not hammering hard enough on the pickle fork or there's got to be another trick. I've got the bottom to release but the top of both in the front are stuck. If a puller would grab I'd try it, but I don't want to hammer on perfectly good threads. The nut is off btw.
im not sure i understand what you mean, and i ditched my asb a long time ago, so if im out in left field ignore me, but if you're trying to disconnect the links on the swaybar, jack up on the frame some to unload the leafs a little, that will take the bind out of the asb and help get it off.
10-25-2008 02:24 AM
j.amrol hey again, I've got all the hardware for sway bar disconnects but either I'm not hammering hard enough on the pickle fork or there's got to be another trick. I've got the bottom to release but the top of both in the front are stuck. If a puller would grab I'd try it, but I don't want to hammer on perfectly good threads. The nut is off btw.
10-25-2008 02:14 AM
j.amrol I made this post

So people who are used to lowering Bimmers, and beating up Blazers will see what Jeeping on the cheap will get you.

I didn't have to, or even see what you were talking about regarding the bolt in the sleeve. Check the link above, that's what I ended up doing this far.
10-24-2008 08:24 AM
jpdocdave you won't have that problem again, unless you don't touch it for 20 yrs. once you get that one out and replace it, it will come back out in the near future. maybe you'll get lucky, but everyone i've seen has been a pain.

i've never heard of anyone putting an add a leaf under the pack, that is really gonna suck.
10-23-2008 09:41 PM
j.amrol haha yeah in NH there's a ton of salt, rust, snow... Northern new england..

I went to put them on tonight and once I jacked it up I noticed I have to disconnect the sway bar to get axle to drop down. So I bailed and had a beer/ ordered food, and now I'm debating on ordering new sway bar links (one thing I don't have) or re-using the old ones... I've heard that track bars and sway bars don't do much on leaf sprung vehicles so I'm debating on taking them out now that I saw how much flex is allowed with them in. My track bar is broken on the rear from last weekend so I just took it out to avoid clunking and haven't noticed anything major. Just when a harsh gust of wind hits you feel it.

What I have isn't add a leafs.. It's a generic version of them. The directions that came with them say there's two ways. Disassemble spring and use them as an extra leaf, or jack up the vehicle 6 inches above the desired height and install under the leaf pack with U bolts (which is what I'm going to try).

I'm going to give it a shot regardless..What am I out, an hour of my time? I've read a ton of posts and nobody seems to say anything other than they don't last or are a harsh ride. It's about time somebody did a write up on why they suck.

Back to that bolt (for future reference) how about grinding away a few sides of an old socket to hammer into the sleeve with an extension and socket inside it? Are you saying every time I take the spring apart I'll need a new one? Kind of like a ball joint - the sleeve? It either lets the nut go, or spins until the hammer/ pry bar/ seperator damages it beyond future use.
10-23-2008 08:20 AM
jpdocdave depending on how bad your springs are is what determines how long the add a leaf lasts, but it won't last very long at all.

the problem with that bolt is you can't get to it, what happens is the bolt seizes inside the sleeve. so the sleeve will turn in the bushing, you can't get to it with heat, and hammering just spreads the hanger out. its a lot of fun, and usually you end up cutting it, but it stays seized in the spring, but maybe you live where there's no salt and rust, but you'll find out. good luck, you'll probably be kicking yourself in the spring sayin "wish i would've just done it right the first time"
10-23-2008 08:04 AM
j.amrol I'm definitely going to put on all new springs in the spring. I've only got 2 months of trails left until the snowmobiles take over (and fish and game start really patrolling).

I keep hearing that they don't last, which is definitely shown in the price but how long do they last? How harsh is harsh?

Has anybody rode on them for a length of time to find out? Is there a writeup anywhere bashing add a leafs? If not I'll write a review after some trails, highway, and snow.

Thanks for the heads up on the bushings. One thing I over looked.. I'm used to working on an 86 bmw so getting things loose and out I've become a pro at. Enough heat, and a big enough hammer will release anything..
10-22-2008 10:29 PM
jpdocdave don't worry about the t case, and imo take back the add a leafs. they will make it stiffer, they will not last, and they're a ton of work to get almost no where. you'd be better with shackles, and even then when you put them on tired springs they don't do much, but at least they don't noticeably effect ride quality.

nothin is cheap and easy, and if it is, thats what you get.

my idea for what it sounds like you want to do would be this: buy a decent 2 1/2" lift kit. old man emu, rancho, rough country, and sky jacker i've personally dealt with for yj's, and are pretty good companies. you will be replacing springs and shocks w/ a couple odds and ends, and if done right will still ride nice. ome is the best spring around, and i don't know what those kits are goin for these days but i think $600 will get you set up.

but remember this, putting on the whole kit is barely more work than add a leafs.

oh yeah, add a leafs, you're gonna need new leaf center pins, and longer u bolts, and you'll be lucky if the hanger side of the spring bolts come out, and the bushings will be shot, so you'll want spring eye bushings also. just reinforces why you should just bite the bullet and do it right. but thats just my long 2 cents.
10-22-2008 10:18 PM
j.amrol I was actually checking them out at 4 different parts stores. I talked with their mechanics, and managers about what I was looking for. Nobody could answer if blocks worked with spring under, or why they say not for use on the front, or why they were all returned at one point or another (all taped back together).

Why can't you use blocks on the front? Just wondering...

I ended up getting add a leafs, all the way around. Shackle lifts too just in case I decide they're too stiff, don't work, or don't bring me high enough.

I'm not looking for anything huge. Really just an inch or two over what it was when it rolled off the lot 13yrs ago. It's pretty tired now.

I'll definitely post how it goes during and after the install this weekend. Is there anything I should get before I'm elbow deep? Shocks shouldn't be an issue, but I'm wondering about dropping the T-case a half inch. I figure bringing back to stock +1in it's not really necessary. How can I measure if the angle is too much? How will I know when the brake lines get in the way under suspension flex? Just jack the wheel up and look?
10-22-2008 03:50 PM
whitebuffalo if you're SOA, then its no prob. if your stock, blocks are going to lower you, since the springs go under the axle on jeeps stock.

i am running rear springs in the front and front springs with an add aleaf in the rear on mine, SOA., spring rate wise, its no prob.

blocks in the front are a definite no regardless
10-22-2008 03:20 PM
Mis matched spring rates front/ rear? bad?

Any Idea if putting lift blocks in the rear, and add a leafs in the front would cause any issues with different spring rates font/ rear?

I want to keep the stock feeling because my 3yr old girl comes with me everywhere. I figure with the engine on the add a leafs, and the rear just blocked up I would gain some clearance but not be a rough ride.. I would block the front too but they say not for use on the front. Is that unsafe???We do some mild trails, mud, down trees,and some rocky situations where a stock height jeep probably shouldn't be. Besides I keep getting hung up on my trailer hitch.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:13 AM.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC. is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC