|05-28-2012 03:53 AM|
I'll beat a dead horse
I'm on board with the super35 kit and at least chromo shafts in the d30
The thing about the 8.8 people fail to mention is the needed sye (driveshaft) or you will have vibes
Sure I'd like to start with a stock d44 or 8.8
8.8 will never break with my use
I'd like to build a d44 to 33spline super44 kit
Wheel it till it breaks,id superior kit what I have that way there's no custom work needed,all bolt on/in parts
|05-27-2012 08:06 PM|
I spent about 4 hours today on some hard wheeling with my dana 35/30 with 33" Pro Comp M/T's. I was wheeling in rocks covered in mud and snow, some tires would lose and gain traction on and off very often. I was bouncing 3 times for a few seconds each as I tried to climb some steep, wet, rock faces.
This trail is rated 8/10. I have a 4.0 with 5spd manual transmission, and used 1st gear with 4wd high for the first half because it was downhill and then I used 4wd low in 2nd and 1st gear to climb back up.
I had several moments where I was sure I would break the dana 35 as I hopped up rocks and each time I bounced, but no problems yet My clutch is on its last legs, so I tried not to use it too much, putting even more stress on the axles. I have an open front and the factory limited slip in the rear. 3.73 gearing.
I don't think they are as weak as people make them out to be, but I do hope to one day get either a super 35 kit or a Ford 8.8 in the rear.
|11-19-2008 11:53 AM|
|emev0l||I wouldn't put any money into upgrading a 35, run it till it brakes, put the money you were going to put into upgrading it aside and when you kill it, buy a 44 or 8.8|
|11-15-2008 08:25 PM|
I think for 35's a truss, alloy shafts, and a full case locker will go a long way, but the amount of money goes way up there. I personally cant see spending that much money on a D35, especially if you even think about going to a bigger tire later on is possible.
You can only take your D35 so far. Some people need more some don't. He may find that after all the bling up grades, hes just moved the weak point to the R&P and wasted money on a turd. Who knows. Its all in how hes driving it and what hes wheeling on.
This is why I say get spare stock shafts and have fun. If breaking shafts is a problem, then its no big deal. You have spares. Step up to alloys if its happening really often, but alloys are only 15-30% stronger. Slap a truss on it. If breakage persists still, then don't waste too much money on it. You can find front and rear 44's for really cheap. Hell, you can find people giving away 14b's and 60 rears and you don't see them sell for much more than $100 at the most for a rear. Front 60's are a ton though.
What it comes down to is how much money you want to spend. A 44 or 8.8 swap and a HP30 isn't too bad at all as far as modifying things goes and not too horribly hard on your wallet. Its all up to your breakage and your thresh hold for wasting money I guess.
For me what it came down to was safety. I almost died the last time my D35 broke. I was on a mountain side and the only thing that stopped me from rolling off the side was luck and a tree. Its a humbling experience (not the first time for me) that changes your views quite a bit. I have a family now and the investment into 60's could prevent something similar in the future. It took to small bucks for my D35 to let loose, I was amazed. I want to feel safe and I want to feel comfortable taking my family out with me.
So every one has their own reasons for upgrading or swapping. Theres no need for a heated debate. Some where out there is a chart comparing shaft strength, which I thought was fairly interesting.
|11-15-2008 04:37 PM|
|tmbrdr69||Failry interesting thread. I knew the debate regarding the stock D30/D35 was heated, but... In the end I think that when you decide to build your Jeep you need to consider what you plan on using it for. If all you plan on doing is riding up a lazy trail why spend all the money.|
|11-13-2008 05:05 PM|
|11-13-2008 04:59 PM|
|11-13-2008 05:40 AM|
I'll have to get a 44 R&P and measure the teeth. I know they're longer, but don't know the thickness difference. The mass of the ring gear between the mounting surface and the root of the teeth is the part that's irrelevant.
I'm running a STaK 3spd.
On a stock 35; housing or better carrier deflection is an issue that takes out gears. Replace all the innards with a full case locker and good shafts and see what happens.
For the OP. I'd look into Superiors 27 spline c-clip eliminator kit.
|11-13-2008 12:11 AM|
In my opinion one of the best products on the market that will help save a 35 is the Superior truss setup that they make for it. It's going to do the best job of keeping the housing from twisting under loads.
Monday I don't care what you say about that 35 my friend I have personally seen way more 35 cases that have cracked/wasted gears because of housing deflection than not. I don't care if someone on Pirate did something with a D35 or not. You even go over there in the non-hardcore section and mention your 35 and you aren't going to get good results from that venture.
With all of that being said. If someone was wanting to run 33's for a good long time with light duty wheeling then you have a very good chance of having no problems with the axle. You just have to set your expectations for what you are going to use your equipment for. I'm never down for anyone spending unecessary money on something.
|11-12-2008 11:59 PM|
I think I have about decided to stay with the 33's and the Dana 35, but add the Alloy USA brand 30 spline axle upgrade kit for $215, and maybe add a good cover like the ARB Competition, or the Rancho to help with flex.
That will keep me under the 35 to 37 inch tire limit on the Dana 35, and will keep my spending way below $1200 or so. Hey, if I break it, I can upgrade then like you guys suggested!
|11-12-2008 09:03 PM|
Alright, my appoligies. I suppose I felt attacked and I was just reading into it the wrong way.
I agree, for 35" tires and smaller there is no reason to ever buy a 44. But personally I know I will be going to 37" tires eventually while staying as low as possible and I deff. dont trust a D35 to hard wheeling on a tire that size. So if we are going to compare strength to what tire size you should run your absolutley correct. For tires up to 35" a D35 can be built to handle that duty with no problems. But much bigger and I think a 44 is a seriously wise decision. Technically, the greater mass of the ring gear does make it stronger by itself I have never found any stats on the contact patch of the teeth on the R&P sets on those axles so I cant say the 44 has greater contact patch on the teeth. Assuming is not something I like to do but Id venture to guess the increased size of the gears may also mean it has increased contact patch on the teeth but cant say for sure. Do you know? Id honestly like to look into finding that out. But the bigger gears also makes the teeth thicker which means even if they had the exact same contact patch, the thicker teeth would theoretically hold up better.
And I see where your comming from on the busted locker. A front dig can put a ton of strain on the internals as you know all too well.
So are you running an atlas tcase then? Or did you twin stick a D300 or some other case to get FWD?
|11-12-2008 09:01 PM|
Just a personal opinion...but I think given the kind of wheeling you're talking about, the D35 should be GTG. In this case, I kinda think the AT works in your favor as the torque converter takes some of the jarring out of the drive train. I think it's jarring, combined with flex in the tubes that ultimately allows the spline shaft to break off inside the rear end housing. I'm nothing but a backyard mechanic...though I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express ONCE.
What do you guys think...you know what they say about opinions...
|11-12-2008 08:38 PM|
The mass of the ring gear doesn't make it stronger. The size and contact patch of the teeth do.
The 44 does have better weld attachment of the tubes to the center casting.
I'm not arguing I'm presenting a valid point. All of my wheeling is designed around using and maximizing 35" tires. If I can get an advantage over you with .5" of clearance, then it was worth the effort.
The OX wasn't a defective unit. It's a fact of using LP30's with 35's and doing 3rd gear front digs.
|11-12-2008 08:27 PM|
I didnt say anything about them on the street? Did I? Im agreeing with you here. A S35 is fine. If my current TJ didnt already have a 44 I probably wouldnt have put one in myself for some time. I wheeld a D35 on my ZJ AND my TJ for a long time with relatively few problems.
How is it BS that when it comes to R&P's more material is stronger? If you look at a standard cut D35 and D44 set of gears, the 44 is thicker. So your telling me less material makes a stronger part? Excuse me for questioning you but Im not sure I see the logic there. Regardless of any of that, R&P's are rarely the part that gets busted up while wheeling anyway, in both 35's and 44's. So again I say, 35's are fine for moderate wheeling and even extreme wheeling if you build it right and its not under some full size truck or somethin that weighs a ton.
I wasnt aware a c-clip eliminator had been released for the 35's. I knew they had been out for some time for the 8.8 though. I was gonna mention that but like I said, I didnt know if it was out yet. Still, thats extra money that needs to be spent to make it like a 44. After all these upgrades you are just building a 35 to be like a 44, so why not just buy a 44?
Geez man, what the hell where you doing to brake an OX 3 times!? At that point it almost sounds like a defective unit or driver error but I doubt it was the later from talking to you on here.
Im not trying to start beef but Id appreciate it if youd not insinuate that I dont know anything about axles. It is somewhat insulting.
|11-12-2008 07:48 PM|
and the assumption that bigger is better, it's BS
You can have non-clip S35's
Superior in September released a c-clip eliminator kit for 27 and 35 spline 35's. Walking axles is no longer a factor.
|11-12-2008 07:36 PM|
Out of curiousity, what locker is it that you broke 3 times? How did you brake it? What size tires are you running? And, dont you think you should buy a unit thats maybe a little stronger at that point? If it is indeed a full case locker that you broke, then props to you man. Brakeing one of those 3 times in a row is pretty intense.
|11-12-2008 06:31 PM|
|emev0l||I know you will never get everyone to agree on the strength of the Dana 35 axle, but I think we can all agree that a stock Dana 35 should never be run with anything more than 35s, I know a lot of people will say never more than 33s and I say go for it with 35s and expect an eventual brake and expect to replace it with a 44 or a 8.8 when that happens, a locker and a new set of gears wouldn't be a bad call either. Have fun, beat on it until you break it, then upgrade it.|
|11-12-2008 05:56 PM|
Gotta toss my hat in on the S35 supporters. Ran one with an ARB and 35's for some time with zero breaks. Only prob I ever had was snapping the air line to the ARB once...
35's on S35 =
Oh and that is WITH a 90:1 crawl ratio and the I6 driving it (ie. significant torque)
|11-12-2008 05:43 PM|
go here and search
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
plan on spending 800-1200 for a used 44. A Super kit can be had for 300-500 used and 700-1300 new
|11-12-2008 05:29 PM|
|Rogue||I appreciate all the help I can get! I am just somewhat tied for cash, and wondering what to do as I want to step it up a bit with my off roading. Still though, I will primarily be in mud and sand. I just don't want to have to look over and see my wheels rolling past me!! How hard is it to find a Dana 44 in a junk yard and bolt it all up?|
|11-12-2008 05:13 PM|
|Never Monday||Just want to add. You may not like my opinion of the S35. But, experience has shown there are many over blown claims of weakness on the internet about it.|
|11-12-2008 04:53 PM|
I've blown up 3 lockers in my 30. But the 35 still keep plugging along.
Theres a dude on Pirate who put his Jeep on its side. Then righted it by driving in reverse. He broke a 30 spline Super shaft, BUT THE R&P DIDN"T FAIL
Would you like a link?
|11-12-2008 04:06 PM|
|GrnTJ||Well the 35, even after the super kit, will still have the smaller and weaker ring and pinion and housing. Id skip dumping money into it all together and get a 44 if you can. Granted its not in the cards for some but if you can then do it. Sure, you can probably run 35's on that kit but the feeling of knowing you have that extra strength in the 44 is nice. The 30 is plenty strong for most stuff. Especially after upgraded shafts/u-joints. If you come accross a hp 30 then you could gain some strength with that direct swap too. The ring and pinion are stronger due to the reverse cut of the gears. Im gonna be running 36's on my locked cromoly hp 30 and I think it will hold just fine.|
|11-12-2008 11:36 AM|
|11-11-2008 09:46 PM|
|Rogue||Thanks guys! Anyone tried the truss system or the ARB or Rancho reinforced diff covers?|
|11-11-2008 06:10 PM|
Guess I shoulda read the whole post.
|11-11-2008 06:09 PM|
Why I oughta shmack youse...
|11-11-2008 05:54 PM|
|11-11-2008 03:48 PM|
|TJ-Jeepin||Yep...known people to run the S35 and wheel it hard for years with no complaints or regrets...just sayin'...and NO...I'm not sayin' the S35 and the D44 are equals for those folks that wanna poke me in the eye over it.|
|11-11-2008 02:51 PM|
Heres a list of options
TJ rear axle options - JeepForum.com
This Jeep has been running a S35 for 3 years on 36 or 35 " tires without failure. Everyone will tell you to replace the 35. It can be made sturdy for up to 35's easily.
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