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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-03-2012 07:59 AM
TonkaJeep82 Appreciate it. Thanks! Will do. I'm thinking 4.88 will work best for me. 5.13 maybe to much.
10-02-2012 08:25 PM
Nanook
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82 View Post
I am, but ill get it sorted out. Nanook confused me.
Sorry, didnt mean to confuse. I just didnt agree with the quoted line of reasoning. Anyways it has all been layed out, look at the rpm charts like posted. Also like posted, see what rpm the gears you think you want will put you @ for 70mph. Wherever that rpm is shift your current set up @ that rpm. That way you will have a feel of what driving around in that rpm feels like. Good luck.
10-01-2012 05:32 AM
TonkaJeep82 I am, but ill get it sorted out. Nanook confused me.
09-30-2012 05:44 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82
Ok, so what r ur suggestions as far as my jeep and me towing, and regearing.
We covered that earlier in the thread, yes?
09-30-2012 05:33 PM
TonkaJeep82 Ok, so what r ur suggestions as far as my jeep and me towing, and regearing.
09-30-2012 07:08 AM
Nanook
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
First off, you're making the incorrect assumption that more RPM's = hotter operating temperature. What you're not taking into account is the fact that the engine is working harder now than it will be when you've got the proper diff gear ratio installed. Right now, your engine has less leverage on the tires and the towing load due to the higher gear ratio. With 4.88/5.13's, the engine will have to work less because it will have more leverage thanks to the mechanical advantage provided by lower gears. Less work = less heat. So that's a non issue.

As for 4.88 vs. 5.13 when not towing, the difference is 5%.....not much. If 4.88's aren't too low, neither are 5.13's. You'll be sitting at around 2800 RPM @ 65mph with 5.13's vs.~1700 RPM now (assuming you have 3.21 gears). You say you drive in the 70-80mph range......trying to push a brick-shaped vehicle through the air at those speeds will have a more drastic effect on fuel mileage than running @ 3k RPM. Your 3.8 is perfectly happy at those RPM's and truthfully, at those speeds, it needs to be up there in order to efficiently move you. Lugging the engine is much worse than spinning a couple hundred extra RPM's.
Actually, I think you are thinking about it incorrectly. More rpm equals more movement which means more friction and heat. It also means more detonation which means more heat.

If you Jeep isnt geared correctly and you a driving up a hill it will bog down. It wont work harder. It does work harder when you downshift which goes back to my point.
09-29-2012 09:54 PM
pluke the 2 I agree with MTH. That chip is snake oil.
09-29-2012 09:41 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82
Can u explain a Lil more? About the gforce??
There are a lot of these chips out there. For the most part, they're all junk. I've never heard anyone say anything good about the g-force chip and its claims are ridiculous. I'd return it and get something useful. The super chips tuner and the sprint booster are electronic items that actually have a track record of doing something.
09-29-2012 08:13 PM
TonkaJeep82 Can u explain a Lil more? About the gforce??
09-29-2012 12:25 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82
Very helpful info. Thankyou! I called a shop And set up a time for them to do it, they r saying they will have jeep for approx. 3days and an estimated price for the project is around 1700.00 is this about right for the project give or take a few hundred. Also, I will hold off on any exhaust mods for now, until I can do the whole thing front to back, again thanks for all your help.
Anywhere from $1200 to $1700 is fairly typical. Ask if they'll do it for $1400 and compromise from there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82
Ok, my birthday was yesterday and my girlfriend got me a "G-Force" computer chip specifically for the 07 wrangler. It looks to be an easy install, only two wires. I don't know anything about this product. Anybody have any info on this product. Likes, dislikes?
Snake oil.
09-29-2012 12:01 PM
TonkaJeep82 Ok, my birthday was yesterday and my girlfriend got me a "G-Force" computer chip specifically for the 07 wrangler. It looks to be an easy install, only two wires. I don't know anything about this product. Anybody have any info on this product. Likes, dislikes?
09-29-2012 11:50 AM
TonkaJeep82 Very helpful info. Thankyou! I called a shop And set up a time for them to do it, they r saying they will have jeep for approx. 3days and an estimated price for the project is around 1700.00 is this about right for the project give or take a few hundred. Also, I will hold off on any exhaust mods for now, until I can do the whole thing front to back, again thanks for all your help.
09-29-2012 08:48 AM
Imped Unless you're setting up the gears yourself, and I doubt you are, have the shop doing the work purchase them.
09-28-2012 02:39 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82 View Post
Another question, when ordering my 4.88 gears from Quadratec, it says for a Dana 44 rear axle? Is that what I have? Stock? I do not have a Rubicon. I thought the Dana 44 only came stock on Rubicons. If that's not what I have, what would I have and what or how do I order the gears. My jeep is however a Sahara.
In general, all JKs come with D44 rears and D30 fronts.

However, in 2007, you were able to order an "offroad package" on the Sport that gave you D44 fronts and rears, I believe. Not sure if that was available on the Sahara. To further complicate matters, a handful of early 2007 JKs came with the old D35 rear axle.

So it's hard to know just what you've got without knowing more than merely it's a 2007 Sahara. If you register your VIN on jeep's website, you should be able to download your build sheet and confirm your axles.

Also, I would use Q-tec and the like to price various gear sets, but I wouldn't order them. You're going to need a shop to do this work (it's complicated), and the usual advice is to let the shop order the gears they recommend (provided they give you a fair price) so that the shop can't weasel out of any warranty issues by asserting that YOU ordered crappy gears.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82 View Post
Also as far as the gears go, do I need the same front and rear? Or just replace the rear?
Unless you want to remove your front driveshaft and become a 2x4 jeep, you need to do front and rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82 View Post
Also looking to buy an exhaust system. Looking at borla cat back system, any reviews or suggestions on this product?
Opinions vary, but I say save your money. Unless you're really going to do front to back with the "air" mods--new intake, new throttle body, new headers, highflow exhaust from the headers on down--they don't do much (if anything) for jeeps.
09-28-2012 01:24 PM
TonkaJeep82 Also as far as the gears go, do I need the same front and rear? Or just replace the rear?
09-28-2012 01:23 PM
TonkaJeep82 Another question, when ordering my 4.88 gears from Quadratec, it says for a Dana 44 rear axle? Is that what I have? Stock? I do not have a Rubicon. I thought the Dana 44 only came stock on Rubicons. If that's not what I have, what would I have and what or how do I order the gears. My jeep is however a Sahara. Also looking to buy an exhaust system. Looking at borla cat back system, any reviews or suggestions on this product?
09-28-2012 07:04 AM
Imped Your crawl ratio right now is 4.46 (NSG370 first gear) x 3.21 (diff ratio) x 2.72 (NP231 low range ratio) = 39:1

It will increase to almost 60:1 with 4.88 gears and a bit over 62:1 with 5.13 gears. With 4.88 gears you'll crawl 54% slower than you do now....I can tell you from experience that in 4 low, you won't (and shouldn't) ever touch the clutch unless you're coming to a complete stop. It will take you a while to break the habit and realize how little you actually need to touch the clutch. A good driver will look like he's driving an auto with a properly geared manual-equipped rig.

You're gonna be spinning significantly higher RPM's at highway speed whichever way you go. 5.13's will set you up for 37's if you plan to go that route in the future and will make towing very nice. 4.88's will be no slouch at all and would work fine for you.
09-27-2012 08:20 PM
TonkaJeep82 So ur thinking I'd be better off with 4.88's or 5.13's ? Will either one of those help me also if I decide to do some wheeling, I'm guessing from what I gathered so far, my low end torq will be great also... ? Cuz it sucks now, I tried doin some wheeling and I've gotta burn the hell out of the clutch to get it to climb. Hence, I don't wheel as often as I have in my older jeeps, in the past.
09-27-2012 07:57 PM
Imped 5th is 1:1, 6th is .84. You have 3.21 gears like I suspected. You'll be in love with proper gears.
09-27-2012 01:44 PM
TonkaJeep82 Ok, on my way home today, I payed attention to my speed and rpms, at 70mph in 5th I was running at approx. 2200rpm, at 70 in 6th I was running approx. 1800rpm. I'm not sure of the gears I have now, I know it is all factory. Thankyou for clearing up my confusion on the gears, I'm starting to understand now. To be honest, I know auto body, I'm not to knowledgeable on the mechanics of a vehicle, but Im willing to learn, so Thankyou for helping me along.
09-27-2012 11:25 AM
Imped First off, you're making the incorrect assumption that more RPM's = hotter operating temperature. What you're not taking into account is the fact that the engine is working harder now than it will be when you've got the proper diff gear ratio installed. Right now, your engine has less leverage on the tires and the towing load due to the higher gear ratio. With 4.88/5.13's, the engine will have to work less because it will have more leverage thanks to the mechanical advantage provided by lower gears. Less work = less heat. So that's a non issue.

As for 4.88 vs. 5.13 when not towing, the difference is 5%.....not much. If 4.88's aren't too low, neither are 5.13's. You'll be sitting at around 2800 RPM @ 65mph with 5.13's vs.~1700 RPM now (assuming you have 3.21 gears). You say you drive in the 70-80mph range......trying to push a brick-shaped vehicle through the air at those speeds will have a more drastic effect on fuel mileage than running @ 3k RPM. Your 3.8 is perfectly happy at those RPM's and truthfully, at those speeds, it needs to be up there in order to efficiently move you. Lugging the engine is much worse than spinning a couple hundred extra RPM's.
09-27-2012 11:16 AM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82 View Post
How are 5.13's gonna work for me, for normal everyday driving on highway and on backroads? As far as torq, speed, power, and mpg. When not towing..?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonkaJeep82 View Post
As opposed to 4.88's?
My expectation would be that it'd feel great down low. Leaving stop signs and the like, it'd feel very peppy. You'd probably row through the gears pretty quickly too, as RPMs would rise fast.

On the highway--assuming your tires are really 34"--I'd expect you'd be at just about exactly 3000 RPMs at 70 mph with 5.13s. That's too much for me, but for you maybe not. Get out on the highway or another open road and get going at a reasonable speed and stay in whatever gear gets you at about 3000 RPMs. Now imagine that's your RPMs on the highway when you're doing 70 mph during any trip or commute you may have, and there's nowhere to upshift to (i.e., there's no "7th gear"). That's what it'll be like.
09-27-2012 11:05 AM
TonkaJeep82 As opposed to 4.88's?
09-27-2012 11:04 AM
TonkaJeep82 How are 5.13's gonna work for me, for normal everyday driving on highway and on backroads? As far as torq, speed, power, and mpg. When not towing..?
09-27-2012 10:59 AM
TonkaJeep82 I appreciate all the info and I'm leaning towards 4.88 but I'm goin to do some highway driving this wknd and do some calculations, now I'm thinking I'm between 4.88 and 5.13... I do like to drive between 70-80 on the highway when not towing. When I am towing, 5th and 6th gears are very difficult to hold cuz of slight hills on the highway, therefore I'm almost always stuck doin. Between 50-60 on the highway unless I downshift to 4th, but only when towing. And in 4th gear on the highway, I feel uncomfortable, as if I'm working the engine to hard. Large hills off the highway, I'm running 2nd 3rd gears goin up and again, I feel I'm working the jeep to hard, so let's say I change the gears. Then I need to keep the engine cool, should I go for heat reduction hood with snorkel, exhaust, supercharger?? Not sure what direction to go. This is my only vehicle and I drive it daily to work, then also haul camper on the wknds... Again any help is appreciated! Thanks
09-27-2012 10:49 AM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
You want 4.88's at a minimum. 5.13's would make you happy when towing. Don't even consider 4.56 gears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
4.88s without a doubt. if it was my rig i'd put in 513s. just me
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel_M View Post
For a manual 07 and 35" tires go with 4.88. 4.56 are a waste for the 3.8L IMO.
You guys are hardcore man.

I'll hold out my lone vote that he should at least consider 4.56s for the reasons I set out above. But no doubt 4.88s are the most common recommendation.
09-27-2012 10:26 AM
mrbullitt RIPP makes a Nice Supercharger System
09-27-2012 10:11 AM
Imped You want 4.88's at a minimum. 5.13's would make you happy when towing. Don't even consider 4.56 gears.
09-27-2012 10:08 AM
pluke the 2 4.88s without a doubt. if it was my rig i'd put in 513s. just me
09-27-2012 09:54 AM
Daniel_M 4.56 are ok if you never want to go bigger than 33's. I say its a waste cause most people once they start modifying their Jeep go to 33 then 35 with your 4.56 being no good for the new 35's. I got 5.13 in my auto trans and at 70 mph I am at about 2400 rpm, IMO a manual with 35's should be one numerically lower gear set, 4.88.

-Dan
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