|04-03-2012 12:06 AM|
Love the upgrade - Simple to install with a little trimming to fit the new speaker. Still using the stock amp and head unit.
Kicker CompVT 08CVT652 65-Inch 2-Ohm 165mm SVC Subwoofer
Sold by: Amazon
Item subtotal: $58.95
|04-02-2012 10:06 PM|
|socrtom||I just finished installing a replacement Kicker sub in the console, packed the front speaker pods, the sound and console sub unit and I am very happy with the results! Thanks to all JWForum poster for supplying me with tons of information to geter don right! I did come across a tip I had not read before regarding installing the kicker replacement sub - Instead of using a Dremel to remove the fins that would not let the speaker mount, I used foam weatherstripping tale to RAISE the speaker enough to install without any surgery! Works great but my Dremel is not happy!|
|03-21-2012 08:45 AM|
Wrangler Console Sub/Amp Removal
I have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler Sahara.
Console sub does not work. I have checked the fuse and it's good. I have gotten to the point where I need to disconnect the sub/amp wire harness and I am unable to figure it out. Tugging is not working and I can not find any clamps etc that need to be depressed etc.
I have read hundreds of post have soaked up tons of great information!
|10-30-2011 08:04 PM|
|JeffB80||Quick question for anyone who may have installed the replacement subwoofer from Quadratec (Replacement Center Console Subwoofer: 14133.1001) ... I have unscrewed the center console and pulled it up, but try as I might, I can't get the multi-pin connector at the front of the console to separate, so I can get the subwoofer out. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong. What gives? I have an 05 Wrangler. Thanks.|
|10-08-2011 05:29 PM|
|FLWrangler||Yesterday I replaced my stock and blown subwoofer with the Kicker CompVT, from Amazon for $63. Absolutely the easiest install, nothing to change except making your own holes to screw the subwoofer into the stock box. You go from 4 wires to 2 but that is easy. Red to Red, Black to Black and 50-50 on the other two. One way you get a buzzing sound, one way you get the subwoofer sound. Man what a difference.|
|10-07-2011 09:48 AM|
new here and was wondering if there have been any new products or any other recommendations since the last posting? My subwoofer just died on my 2003 rubicon and its driving me nuts.
Thanks in advance for any help offered.
|10-06-2011 09:12 AM|
|SBG||There is now a direct replacement for the sub. I know that Quadratec has it, but you might be able to get it cheaper somewhere else.|
|10-05-2011 10:45 AM|
Sub for my jeep?
Same ol story I've read so far, blown sub in my 06 Rubicon. Does anyone know 1. If the stock sub is a 2 or a 4 OHM? 2. If I go with a another type of sub, am I better off going ahead and replacing the amp as well? I can't afford to replace the whole system right now, but I found out the Kicker CompVT 6.5 sub will fit, with a little modification. I can't take this sound anymore! Any help would be great.
|04-24-2011 07:54 PM|
I have a workable solution for the Wrangler Subwoofer dilemma. I had put a Kicker CVT65 in the original plastic sub box to replace the Infinity that kept blowing. An audiophile friend of mine rode in my ’06 Wrangler and kept bugging me about the subwoofer that only “farted” instead of delivering good lows. I went to a local custom audio outlet and they quoted me over $800 for replacing the head unit, installing a sub box in the back, and putting in an amp below the rear seat. I didn’t like the price, or the space they were planning on taking up in my cargo area, so I searched for another option.
I called Crutchfield, and they were awesome! For under $400, I was able to replace all 4 speakers with Polk Audio Db’s, which sound great and have the added advantage of being marine rated, replace the head unit with a nice Alpine receiver that has a rear iPod link and controls right from the deck, and put in a compact Kenwood power amp to properly power the Kicker. The Crutchfield rep explained that the stock amp for the stock sub probably only puts out 15-20 Watts, not nearly enough to do anything good with the Kicker replacement. Overall I rate my experience with Crutchfield excellent. My one complaint would be with the adapter they provide you for the deck, BE CAREFUL or you will bend the contacts inside the adapter and then stuff won’t work. My right rear speaker was not working, and that was the cause. Thank heavens for my brother the nurse, he keeps me flush in hemostats from the hospital, which come in handy for tiny little jobs like that. I got it straightened out and working.
Now for the subwoofer box, which I build myself. Using ¾” MDF I built a sealed box to fit inside the armrest and replace the stock unit. The drawback is you lose the tiny little storage tray in the top of the rest, a small price to pay in my opinion. After making a cardboard mockup to check fit, and adjusting it numerous times, I settled on these dimensions. The box needs to be 14-5/8” across the bottom, and 11-3/4” high. The back side needs to be cut at a 5 degree angle inward from 90 degrees to fit in the armrest. The front has a 90 degree face 6” high, then you need to angle the top 6-1/2” 30 degrees inward. The top ends up being 10-3/4” long. So the enclosure is a funky 5- sided trapezoid looking thing, but it fits. I cut the sides at 2-1/2” wide, plus the thickness of the faces makes the sub enclosure 4” wide total. The edges of the sides must be cut at some odd angles in order to get a tight fit, and that was done on the fly with a mitering chopsaw. I assembled the box using 18 gauge brads and an air-nailer, while also running a bead of Heavy-Duty Liquid nails along all seams before assembling by using clamps to keep the box together. Let the Liquid Nails set for 24 hours and the box will be solid as granite. I didn’t like the way screws went into the MDF, so I used machine screw inserts on the back side of the box to attached the sub to the box. A drop if Lock-Tite on the threads and they will never come loose. Once installed, adjust the amp and the head unit for max sound, and it sounds amazing. Total cost of the entire system install with MDF and fasteners less than $450.
All said and done, building the box and installing the new equipment took about 8 hours. The sound is now amazing in my Jeep. I didn’t think the stock system sounded bad, but the sound out of the upgraded components is 100x better. Totally worth the money and time.
|03-18-2011 12:44 AM|
|VarMitt||The speaker swap worked well & satisfied with the results.|
|03-17-2011 12:16 PM|
Just wondering how your speaker swap worked out. Mine just blew and I need to replace mine now.
|02-20-2011 08:31 PM|
|yuanyelss||Ebay is also a very good thing to look at for savings. you can get a sub for 80 bucks and another amp for 160...|
|02-18-2011 10:56 AM|
Will try this install soon.
|02-18-2011 08:13 AM|
Now I understand why there are 6 wires going to the speaker box. Two power the internal amp and two pairs (4wires) power each speaker cone. Thank you P Taylor for saving my bacon. Your very detailed information was most appricated by me and I'm sure many others. Thanks again for takeing the time to help a fellow jeeper out.
Keep your powder dry---Doug
|02-17-2011 09:19 AM|
First, check the wiring again. There should only be four physical wires going to the speaker itself. yes, there is 6 wires coming from the radio, and it does go into a connector, and six wires come out, but keep in mind you have a small OEM amp inside the assembly.
So, two wires are for power and ground (the amp that runs the sub)
two wires are for left channel (+ and -)
two wires are for right channel (+ and -)
the reason for left and right channels is because the original OEM speaker is a Dual Voice coil, it uses both channels of the radio.
The Kicker CVT654 is not a dual voice coil, but it will work, and work very well. You only need to attach one channel to it, left or right, not both.
first thing, make sure your internal amp is working correctly, check to make sure you have voltage on connector at the correct locations (I'll attach the wiring diagram for you so you will know the correct colors.)
You can use any speaker to hook up to the output channels to see if you get sound. don't blast it, turn it down. you only want to hear sound coming from the speaker. This should verify that the internal amp is working and you are indeed getting audio to the speaker.
the reason this is important is because people report having all kinds of problems and weird ways of wiring up speakers to get them to work. this is because either they did not wire their head unit up correctly or the factory amp is damaged.
you do not have to use the factory amp. you can get ANY cheap, low powered amp to run the kicker CVT654. I got a broken amp from someone, repaired it for $5, and use it to drive my CVT. The only reason for this was because my internal OEM amp was blown.
If you do it this way, you can removed the internal amp (or leave it, just disconnect the plug and wrap up the wires so they are no flopping everywhere).
There are two versions of the kicker you are looking at, one is a 2 Ohm (Impedance) and the other is a 4 Ohm (Impedance). I think the 2 Ohm is rated at 300 watts and the other is rated at 150 Watts. don't quote me, again, this is from memory. If you do decide to run the kicker (or anything else, for that matter) with a separate amp, then you need to make sure the impedance match up and your not getting something that's gonna push more power to the speaker than it is rated for. It'll sound like crap and probably blow it.
mounting the speaker is easy. I had to take a drimel tool and but out some pastic fins inside the case, and not a lot either. hell, a pocket knife could do if your'e careful. The mounting screw holes do not align but several simple self tapping screws work great.
One more thing. Many people around here suggest getting marine speakers, mounting the amp under the back seat, etc...
waste of time and money. they focus so much on making the speaker "water proof" and totally miss the fact that the electronics is not "water proof". Mounting the amp under the rear seat works, but in the summer if you are driving the amp pretty hard, like a lot of bass, then it will probably overheat and shut off.
I found a small one that mounts under the front seats and it works perfectly.
I tried two small amps under the rear seat and they tended to shut off on the hottest days. no air flow under there.
The kicker CVT654 works great, sounds great, and is an easy install. It's not good for listening to rap, or hiphop, or whatever the hell that music is called these days. Anything with heavy bass. It just sounds like crap in that plastic box. Typical rock, country, etc..... It works good for. Bass, the box needs a little more modding.
Links to color wires, wiring diagrams:
Also, here is the wiring diagram in PDF format.
One more thing. ALL speakers of this nature require a proper "break in" period. you can do some "googling" to learn a little more about that.
Make sure you get the speaker from an authorized distributor so in the event it stops working, Kicker will honor the warranty. anyone can sell them, but if kicker doesn't approve, then the warranty it comes with is pretty much useless.
|02-15-2011 04:13 PM|
|VarMitt||Hello to all. I also have a blown factory subwoofer in a 2002 Sport. I would like to replace it with a CVT654 Kicker (as Fish mentioned in an earlier post-May 2010). Fish said this Kicker will fit in the factory speaker box and it performed well. I want to do the same as Fish and I found a CVT654 on Amazon. My problem is the factory wiring numbers and colors are different than Fish or others have mentioned in their posts. I have 6 colored wires going to the factory console subwoofer;they talk about only 4 wires! My 6 wires comming out of the Radio/Subwoofer connector to the speaker itself are solid colors; White,Purple,Blue,Green,Yellow and Orange. I assume the differance in wire colors&numbers have to do with Wrangler years/models. Right now my sub is disconnected but I want to fix it. So can anyone help the proper wiring hookup for this new speaker?|
|01-28-2011 03:49 AM|
|wranglerYJnewb||I am looking at the kicker COMP CVT6.5. As for everyones questions on how it sounds.... I don't know the center console mount for TJ's but these subs are meant for a sealed enclosure. All reviews say that mounting them in a non sealed enclosure will cause the sub to pop and distort at higher volume levels. But if mounted in a sealed enclosure will actually sound really good on the lows|
|01-25-2011 03:09 PM|
|amerikid||Bought the Ulimited in 2005, new, with the 7 speaker Infinity system and stock radio. Recent rain in Cali got the inside of my Jeep so moist that speakers are done. Want to replace the whole shabang but have NO idea where to start. I want more durability and better sound than the stock but don't want to spend more than about $700 if possible. Any ideas?|
|01-19-2011 08:22 AM|
|kirkf||Is this hard to wire? Do you have any instructions?|
|01-19-2011 04:29 AM|
You can also try this one from Parts Express:
Aurum Cantus AC-180F1D 7" DVC Woofer - Description
Aurum Cantus midwoofers feature high-performance cone materials, long-excursion designs, and high quality construction. The AC-180F1D utilizes a composite polymer cone and an inverted rubber surround for a smooth frequency response with minimal breakup. The dual voice coil construction allows you to have more wiring options for the crossover or with multiple drivers. High sensitivity and smooth response is great for compact two-way designs. Specifications (voice coils in parallel): *Power handling: 100 watts RMS/150 watts max *VCdia: 1-3/8" *Le: 0.2 mH *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.4 ohms *Frequency range: 37-6,000 Hz *Fs: 37 Hz *SPL: 90.0 dB 1W/1m *Vas: 2.72 cu. ft. *Qms: 3.47 *Qes: 0.71 *Qts: 0.59 *Xmax: 6 mm *Dimensions: A: 7-3/16", B: 6-3/4", C: 3-3/8".
|01-18-2011 11:01 PM|
|11-23-2010 06:22 AM|
both these are dual voice coil and will hook right up to the four wires on the factory set up, you may have to drill new holes as i am having trouble finding a 6 3/4 inch for a replacement
|09-11-2010 02:30 AM|
|09-11-2010 01:56 AM|
Looking at the Kicker 10CVT652 for my 2003 Wrangler sport, and I see 2 ohm and 4 ohm models. Can anyone confirm the size (6.5") in the 2003, and has anyone put these in a Tuffy Center Console? Going to do both at once. Thanks!
|08-29-2010 10:59 AM|
|Chino2121||I own a 2001 TJ what I did with mine I took the factory sub out and with a dremel I cut an opening for an 8 inch RF sub. I then used the dremel to hollow the inside of the enclosure. Took a little bit of time but well worth it.|
|08-16-2010 01:29 AM|
also where did you put the 12" sub???? I don't really have any idea where one would fit.
|08-13-2010 06:17 PM|
|08-13-2010 11:39 AM|
Just finished the install on the 08CVT654 in the center console of my 2006 Wrangler. Took about 2 hours. Real simple, as described above with some minor exceptions. The wiring tip (Brown to red, black to grey) worked.
The sub does NOT fit into the plastic casing without mod. I think the spacer is the better way to go. I made one out of 3/4" hardwood plywood, cut circular with a router & circle cutting jig. The spacer give you a good, solid place to screw the new sub into, and gives you the necessary clearance in the back of the box. The sub will protrude from the box a little, but there is more than enough give in the armrest to accommodate this. You can use the existing screws holes in the box to attach the spacer if you countersink the holes for the mounting screws, and I also used a bead of liquid nails around the spacer to provide additional stability.
I also got rid of the compression rings that held the mounting brackets to the armrest. The both broke when I took them off anyways. I drilled out the posts and now the brackets are attached with 1/4-20 x 3/4" bolts with nylon lockwasher on the underside. The cupholder inserts cover up the top of the bolts, so out of sight, out of mind. Next time I need to poke around in there, it will be much easier to remove the sub and amp with bolts holding them in.
The Kicker unit sounds a little better than the factory infinity unit. I liked the sound out of the factory sub. I did not like the fact that it blew out twice in the 3 months I have owned the Jeep. I have been told the Kicker unit will handle anything I the RBQ factory head and amp can throw at it, we'll see over time.
If I were to do this job again with more time, I'd probably build a small custom box out of 3/4" or 1" hardwood plywood to mount the sub and amp into. There is plenty of room in the armrest to do this, and I think the sound quality would improve and there would be less annoying vibration of all the thin plastic the factory sub is mounted into. If you save the mounting brackets, they can be re-used and you can have a bit of custom sound without sacrificing the space saving nature of the factory design.
Beware when buying the Kicker units online - I've been told that Kicker will only honor their warranties if you buy from authorized dealers, so a great price now may come at a higher expense down the road if you run into problems. I got my local dealer to match the price I found online anyways, so it didn't matter.
|07-28-2010 07:31 PM|
|05-11-2010 06:45 PM|
|Fish||Update. The Kicker CompVT speaker fit perfectly w/ no modifications necessary to the factory enclosure [besides drilling the new mounting holes for the speaker]. As a note, there were eight screws required to mount the new speaker. I reused the four screws from the factory speaker and found the remaining screws in my toolbox. [Lucky!] The wiring instructions from the above post didn't work for my specific speaker, but it contained useful information concerning the positive and negative wires. The winning combination was wiring the brown/red [positive] together and the black/gray [negative] together and attaching them to their respective posts. Thanks for the confidence to complete this repair!|
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