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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-21-2012 11:58 AM
cigarsnbeer first morning after I lifted it and put the tires on
10-30-2012 12:21 PM
pluke the 2 the guys i know and wheel with who have AEV suspensions end up keeping their springs and changing out everything else. maybe its just a coincidence, maybe not.
10-30-2012 12:18 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarsnbeer
What is the concern with AEV Pluke?

I'm new to this so, please fill me in if you have had a bad experience with it.
Not that there is anything wrong with AEV.
AEV is focused on overland and not so much rock crawling. Most guys prefer the adjustability of control arms rather than brackets that AEV and some other lift company's use.
Then there are people that wheel with AEV and have 0 issues. Your call
10-30-2012 12:08 PM
cigarsnbeer What is the concern with AEV Pluke?

I'm new to this so, please fill me in if you have had a bad experience with it.
10-30-2012 11:42 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2
aev. ouch. don't wheel with that kit or you'll be sorry.
Hehe
10-30-2012 11:32 AM
pluke the 2 aev. ouch. don't wheel with that kit or you'll be sorry.
10-30-2012 10:47 AM
cigarsnbeer Kramer,

I forgot to list that in there but the c gussets are being installed same time as the lift.
10-29-2012 04:55 PM
kramer2k With that heavy wheel and tire selection, I would personally add the C gussets to my list early on. That is if you plan on any offroading. I'm risk averse, so that type of mod is high on my list. I bought mine and will have them welded on today actually. It's a very cheap modification but offers much in the way of peace of mind and protection.
10-29-2012 04:19 PM
cigarsnbeer Finally made up my mind and placed orders for most of this stuff already. Now if Sandy would stop being a certain c word I would have had everything arrive tomorrow and installed on Friday. Now that the deliveries are late I might not even get everyhing installed until after I get back from a business trip to CA.

Anyway here is the list

XD 18x9 wheels
Nitto Trail Grapplers 35x12.5x18
jks quicker disconnects
AEV 2.5" lift with geometry correction brackets
AEV procal module to recalibrate wheel size, and to use on the trail to adjust the TPMS minimum

Now looking into which rear tire carrier/bumber combo I'll get... then front bumber, and regearing. Hopefully should have all these steps done in december. Then I get to work on rock rails, skid plates, lights, winch, CB, etc etc etc
10-10-2012 03:12 PM
kbwwolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarsnbeer View Post
Awesome! thanks again for all the help! I'll see if I can get in contact with Marinehawk... And I'll make sure to post the pics once the work is done... I'll prob end up cutting those Pinch Seams this weekend. I figure get it out of the way before I even go in for the lift and tires.
Won't hurt anything to cut em, but you may not need to. You might wanna wait and see, Speedy Gonzalez.
10-10-2012 02:51 PM
cigarsnbeer Awesome! thanks again for all the help! I'll see if I can get in contact with Marinehawk... And I'll make sure to post the pics once the work is done... I'll prob end up cutting those Pinch Seams this weekend. I figure get it out of the way before I even go in for the lift and tires.
10-10-2012 07:26 AM
kbwwolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarsnbeer View Post
kb,

nice thread on the pinch seems I'll def look into cutting those with the 35s. So for the C's/ Gussets all I would need is that kit you posted installed? basically meaning the C's=Gussets? I was confused in the beginning because I have never heard of Gussets before. (again first build on anything suspension based)

Thanks again for all the help!
Yup, just need the gussets, and a good welder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarsnbeer View Post
I would certainly notice the power loss! especially coming from a history in muscle and rally cars! And my self esteem would be killing me if a granny in a smart car passed me! The justification that I could run their car over still doesn't cover the pain of this happening.

My thoughts are to start looking for body shops 1-3 hours away from DC and in country areas that may not rip me off on a gearing job and C's reinforcement job.
There's a member on here named Marinehawk who had a TON of work done on his Jeep in NOVA...can't recall the name of the shop he was using, but they seemed to know what they were doing. Maybe shoot him a PM, though I haven't seen him on here in a few weeks...
10-09-2012 08:05 PM
cigarsnbeer
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
As for the gearing, you can awhile without that...if you can stand it. Some peeps don't seem to notice the power loss. How that happens, I have no clue. But running with the factory gears, as horrible as they are, won't hurt anything but your self-esteem, when grannies in Smart Cars are torching you on the highway.
I would certainly notice the power loss! especially coming from a history in muscle and rally cars! And my self esteem would be killing me if a granny in a smart car passed me! The justification that I could run their car over still doesn't cover the pain of this happening.

My thoughts are to start looking for body shops 1-3 hours away from DC and in country areas that may not rip me off on a gearing job and C's reinforcement job.
10-09-2012 07:59 PM
cigarsnbeer kb,

nice thread on the pinch seems I'll def look into cutting those with the 35s. So for the C's/ Gussets all I would need is that kit you posted installed? basically meaning the C's=Gussets? I was confused in the beginning because I have never heard of Gussets before. (again first build on anything suspension based)

Thanks again for all the help!
10-09-2012 05:46 PM
kbwwolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarsnbeer View Post
Also, I guess I don't need adjustable track bars and steering stabilizer if I am only going with a 2" lift (again I keep hearing the Old Man EMU is more like a 3")
You MIGHT end up needing the adjustable track bar, and/or adjustable control arms. Depends on how your Jeep rides after the lift. But I wouldn't buy em up front for a 2" lift, since there's a chance you might not need em. Wait and see.

The SS is in the same ballpark, IMO. Blow up your stock one, then replace it. Kinda like ball joints. The stock ball joints on the JK are junk, and will eventually crap out on you. When they do, replace em with something like the Synergy version. But no need to do it till they break...

And if you get 3" out of the OME lift initially, it'll settle a little bit when you put new bumpers and winch on.

I'm with pluke on the OME; if I bought a new Jeep tomorrow I'd most likely put one of their lifts on it.
10-09-2012 05:40 PM
kbwwolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarsnbeer View Post
KBWWOLF,

Can you help me out a little with those issues you pointed out about the heavy tires?

"In 35's, you'll need an HD tire carrier, gussets for the front axles weak C's, may need to trim your pinch seams"

tire carrier, I get that however the rest of what you said makes no sense to me yet. This is really the first time I am getting into suspension of cars. Before the Jeep I was into cars but more so the engines. I'm still learning about all this stuff.

Also, I guess I don't need adjustable track bars and steering stabilizer if I am only going with a 2" lift (again I keep hearing the Old Man EMU is more like a 3")

thanks again everyones help so far!
The tire carrier is self-explanatory, but there are several options. If you're gonna run 35's and wheel your Jeep, you can go with either a rear bumper/tire carrier combo, or a standalone HD tire carrier, such as the OR-FAB swing away tire carrier or the newer TeraFlex HD tire carrier. Plenty of write-ups on both here on the forum.

As for the C's...they're a weak link on the JK front axle. But you can get them reinforced with a kit such as the one below:

EVO: Gussets/Brackets, EVO Mfg C2 Axle Gussets

They'll need to be welded on, but should keep the weak stockers from getting bent by heavier 35" + tires. It's kind've an up-to-you thing, like so many Jeep mods, but I'd recommend doing it if you're gonna run 35" or larger tires. Better to spend the $$ for gussets than to have to spring for a new front axle, IMO.

The pinch seams are something you can do yourself with a grinder or a sawzall, some rustproofing and paint. Here's a thread I posted awhile back on how I cut mine...Cutting your pinch seam

Whether or not it'll be necessary is dependent on your lift, tire/wheel choice, and – to some extent – your paranoia level. But it's really not a big job...

As for the gearing, you can awhile without that...if you can stand it. Some peeps don't seem to notice the power loss. How that happens, I have no clue. But running with the factory gears, as horrible as they are, won't hurt anything but your self-esteem, when grannies in Smart Cars are torching you on the highway.
10-09-2012 05:12 PM
cigarsnbeer KBWWOLF,

Can you help me out a little with those issues you pointed out about the heavy tires?

"In 35's, you'll need an HD tire carrier, gussets for the front axles weak C's, may need to trim your pinch seams"

tire carrier, I get that however the rest of what you said makes no sense to me yet. This is really the first time I am getting into suspension of cars. Before the Jeep I was into cars but more so the engines. I'm still learning about all this stuff.

Also, I guess I don't need adjustable track bars and steering stabilizer if I am only going with a 2" lift (again I keep hearing the Old Man EMU is more like a 3")

thanks again everyones help so far!
10-09-2012 01:26 PM
pluke the 2 It's an auto transmission.

I put in 513's. It's also a 2010. So it has the 3.8L Minivan motor. I had 513's with 35's and it was perfect. wouldn't go any higher (4.88s) or lower with 35's.

Lol. Having friends with winches are very helpful. We don't usually go out and try to destroy the rigs. If we can't make something, we don't strap up and get pulled, we'll ease off and take the bypass. I've been winched once since I have owned the jeep.

The upgrades for performance...

Superior 5.13 gearing, MBRP Exhaust, Air Raid CAI, Powerraid Throttle Body Spacer, Superchip Flashpaq, Jet Chip Stage II.

Nothing has done more for the Jeep except for the gears. Best bang for the buck. In CA average price for regearing is around $1000 including tax.

Performance:

2010 Jeep Wrangler, 3.8L V6, Automatic Performance - YouTube

Thats with 37s.
10-09-2012 12:19 PM
cigarsnbeer Pluke,

are you manual or auto? and what did you gear to 4.88 or 5.13?

Those are some good shots of your rig! looks sick with the 37's but, I think I will really only ever need the 35's...

I'm surprised you do that type of wheeling with no winch. Although it looks like you put enough in the upgrades to do just fine without it.
10-09-2012 11:45 AM
pluke the 2 2010 JK w/ old man EMU suspension - YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxlO6wKvCrM&feature=plcp
10-09-2012 11:33 AM
cigarsnbeer oh almost forgot, the rims... 18" just seemed right... should I drop down to the 17x9? or go even smaller than that? Every XD I have looked at starts at a 17" so if lower I would have to find something else.
10-09-2012 11:21 AM
cigarsnbeer Thanks for the help so far guys, good points! some stuff I obviously didn't think of. Would the 34 (295) be any help instead of 35? The jeep won't see any off road until I get all the armor and rock rails in place, and in light of the advice I will prob do the lockers last.

I've only spoke to one shop so far on doing the gears and they want $2500 which seemed a little steep. Out here in DC though, the labor is crazy for anything. The same shop wanted to give me some springs only lift for $1200 installed. They have great reviews but, are ripping people off for something I can do in less than a day with a friend without a car lift. any way...

I guess I can shop around on the gearing and try to push it up sooner, after all I can always throw it on the credit card and pay it off instead of saving cash. Realistically how bad are we talking if I drive on the stock gears with that set up for lets say 2-3 months? (I have manual by the way, would never go automatic)
10-09-2012 08:20 AM
kbwwolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarsnbeer View Post
Getting ready to make the first round of mods to my 2011 2 door and wanted to run this by some people that are more experienced before I purchase. Please let me know if I am over spending or on track. I am looking for quality, you know, a lift that won't need springs replaced in a year and crap shocks! I want quality but, if there is a comparable item cheaper I am open to suggestions.

You'll hear this time and time again, but a lot of this is completely dependent on how you plan to use your Jeep. If primary use is on-road as a DD, the stuff below is overkill. If you're gonna wheel a good bit (and it sounds like you are, with the inclusion of lockers/gearing/etc) then your list may or may not be adequate, depending on if you plan on climbing boulders, or just partaking in some all-around off-road adventures.

To the specifics...

The first run of mods would be as follows:

Old Man Emu 2" lift (I read this is more like 3")
Good stuff, IMO. Be aware kits have lighter springs and heavier springs; some folks don't like the harsher ride of the heavy springs on-road...makes their Jeep drive like a truck. Personally, I like it that way. Just FYI.

Old Man Emu Steering Stabilizer
Not crucial; steer clear of some gas-charged versions, which are known to introduce a "pull" to your steering. If it were me, I'd wear out my stock SS first. An aftermarket SS won't do a lot for you, and can actually mask incipient problems with shimmies and shakes...
XD 18x9 Wheels (5" back spacing... will this fit with the other mods)
Why 18"? They'll kill you on tire cost. Only reason not to go with smaller wheels/tires – which are cheaper, lighter, have a larger contact patch and a fatter sidewall – is cuz you don't like the look. Also, the 5" bs might be problematic with wider tires; if you're gonna run a 12.5" wide tire, you'd be better off with something closer to 4.5" bs. As a last-ditch effort, you could always run spacers...but I'm not a fan. Better to get wheels with proper bs, by far.
Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 (may go larger to a 35" thoughts?)
Like Ken said, heavy. Boulders. In 35's, you'll need an HD tire carrier, gussets for the front axles weak C's, may need to trim your pinch seams...just to be clear; all that applies to any 35's, not just the Nittos.
JKS Quicker Sway Bar Disconnects
Can't go wrong w/these bad boys, IMO.
RockKrawler Adjustable Track Bar
Only necessary if you need to recenter your axle(s) after lift install.

Then a second run when I save a little more money... maybe 4-5 months after the first:

Detroit ELockers (I heard these are the way to go for quality and no wear, I want to spend all this money once and only have to fix or replace an item if I am dumb enough to bust it on a trail... guess that goes for everything in these lists)
This could take a whole thread...worry about it later...
gear change to 4.88 or 5.13 (any advice on this?)
Same as above; depends on auto vs manual, your usual driving terrain (mountains vs midwest); tire size, etc. Although, with the 3.8L engine, regearing is almost a requirement.

Then further down the road after I rob a bank bumpers, rock rails, warn power plant winch, under body armor...
Personally, I would do all this before gearing and lockers, since they're protection- and weight-related. But that's just me.

Please let me know what you all think, this is my first build and I may (or may not) seem like I know what I am doing but, this is only from hours of reading fourms and looking up products. I am secretly clueless and apparently have no regard for my retirement fund. Thanks in advance guys!

-Cigarsnbeer
Again, nothing really wrong with anything you've planned; you've obviously done some research.

Whether or not it's what you need to allow your Jeep to do what you want it to do...only you know that.
10-09-2012 07:59 AM
kjeeper10 Very heavy tires. I would stay far away unless regearing is sooner.
10-09-2012 07:49 AM
bbtj Well, depends on what you plan on using it for. I got the bumper and winch first, but that is only because the dealer sold them at cost and put them on for free. After that, I replaced that piece of plastic in the front with a steel plate. Then I got skid plates, especially the evaporator skid. Then the rock rails, then the lift. Now, just waiting for the tires to get worn out, so I can replace them and the wheels.
10-08-2012 03:20 PM
cigarsnbeer
mod questions????

Getting ready to make the first round of mods to my 2011 2 door and wanted to run this by some people that are more experienced before I purchase. Please let me know if I am over spending or on track. I am looking for quality, you know, a lift that won't need springs replaced in a year and crap shocks! I want quality but, if there is a comparable item cheaper I am open to suggestions.

The first run of mods would be as follows:

Old Man Emu 2" lift (I read this is more like 3")
Old Man Emu Steering Stabilizer
XD 18x9 Wheels (5" back spacing... will this fit with the other mods)
Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70/18 (may go larger to a 35" thoughts?)
JKS Quicker Sway Bar Disconnects
RockKrawler Adjustable Track Bar

Then a second run when I save a little more money... maybe 4-5 months after the first:

Detroit ELockers (I heard these are the way to go for quality and no wear, I want to spend all this money once and only have to fix or replace an item if I am dumb enough to bust it on a trail... guess that goes for everything in these lists)
gear change to 4.88 or 5.13 (any advice on this?)

Then further down the road after I rob a bank bumpers, rock rails, warn power plant winch, under body armor...

Please let me know what you all think, this is my first build and I may (or may not) seem like I know what I am doing but, this is only from hours of reading fourms and looking up products. I am secretly clueless and apparently have no regard for my retirement fund. Thanks in advance guys!

-Cigarsnbeer

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