|04-16-2014 07:14 AM|
No way!! I hope it's not a "typical issue" on the TJ's
|04-15-2014 04:19 PM|
|TrailbossNJ||Had a battery cable come loose and kill the engine by touching the terminal and the underside of the hood at the same time! Died right in the middle of a tunnel! Talk about embarrassing! Traffic all backed up......|
|04-15-2014 04:02 PM|
A friend of mine has the same (or similar) issue on a JK '06 diesel. He says the jeep runs well for a while and then just stops. After that, he turns the jeep off, then restarts it and it seems like nothing has happened...
He previously changed all injectors and water pump, so it wouldn't be an injection problem (I guess).
Any idea? could it be the CPS? I've always had gas vehicles so I have not idea at all about diesel haha.
Thanks in advance!
|04-04-2014 11:07 AM|
|flash1034||CPS and/or fuel filter in tank clogged. Flash|
|04-04-2014 07:31 AM|
|bobcatbwb||Have a 05 wrangler X manual, yesterday started hesitating some while driving. Went into the store and came out and would turn over, but not start. Tried to jump off, nothing. After switching horn relay around with the relays, nothing. Cleaned the wires on the starter and started, only for a short time. On the way home started hesitating again, pulled into the driveway turned off, and would not start again. After letting it sit for 30 minutes decided to take the battery to get test (just in case, since under warranty), and it started drove to the part store. Tested the battery and alternator, both good. Changed out the ignition switch, good. Now the ASD relay is ticking. Any advise??|
|10-18-2012 11:54 AM|
|10-18-2012 11:49 AM|
|Mud_Slinger||I am having the same issue it has happened twice to me now where my wrangler has just stopped running it is saying in the code that the crank sensor is bad I did not have the engine light come on either. I had a friend have a problem with a different type of vehicle and it was something with the coils but he had the same reading. Any comments appreciated don't want to have to start throwing parts at it. Thanks|
|12-18-2010 08:21 PM|
|jharris65||hey mariah, I am having a very similar issue, any luck finding a solution to yours? My search hasn't gone so well. help?|
|08-23-2010 09:21 PM|
|imowt||I believe it was the battery itself. It was never tied down so making left turns (the battery) was shifting right. The positive connection was grounding out against the side of the fender. Well this was my deduction anyway. So far after tightening it back down, I had no problems|
|07-08-2010 10:13 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Check your battery connections to make sure one isn't pinched at an engine mount, etc. I had an old S-10 Blazer that had that exact symptom and there was a pinched battery cable that only got pinched enough to short to ground during a turn which killed the engine.|
|07-08-2010 09:10 PM|
|imowt||Ok well I have a similar problem, but the jeep only cuts out (shuts down) when I make hard lefts. It started a few months ago where I was driving down the road and was trying to beat a yellow light, so I cut the turn a little hard, and ut shut down completey. I put in neutral and started no problem, i thought it was a fluke. Until I had to go to Lowes the next week, and the same thing happened. Then it started happening on my way into work. I find that mostly when I make a left coming from a decent speed say 30 mph or more thats when it happens. So its a little weird to be honest since its only left turns. Any suggestions? fuel pump?|
|10-23-2009 12:40 AM|
The symptoms are the typical problem caused by the CPS. Changing other things is not going to help. Why fight it? It's not expensive ($30-75 depending on which version) and not hard to do. The only unusual thing is it's happening at such a low mileage. But --.
10 MM socket, a wobbly, then a long extension - wrap tape around the wobbly so it doesn't flop around, reach up from underneath to it. Having someone up top helps you guide your socket onto the bolt(s) but you can do it alone too. Some are mounted with 2 bolts, some with one.
When remounting it, put a small piece of tape to hold the bolt in the socket. Depending on your fingers, you might even get the bolt(s) to start from the top.
BUT -- before replacing it - try this - find the sensor, unplug the connector (up top, back of the engine, 2 wires) - spray the connector with a good electrical cleaner, then plug it back in. The signal from the CPS is a weak one - any corrosion on that connector can kill the signal enough to kill the engine.
If stuck on the road with a dead engine, sometimes just unplugging and replugging that connector is enough to get going again.
Let us know!
|10-22-2009 11:49 PM|
|10-22-2009 11:39 PM|
|10-22-2009 10:42 PM|
|Wyominer||Mariah, don't know if you got your jeep going or not, I hope so. A little piece of advice, which you may have already picked up, listen to Jerry Bransford. He knows what he's talking about. What does a problem with a car somebody used to have, have to do with the Jeep you now have?|
|10-22-2009 10:08 PM|
I doubt it would be a bad PCV valve...I think the way you test those is pop em out and shake em. If they rattle, they're still good.
If you wanna change it just to be certain, they're only a few bucks.
|10-22-2009 10:04 PM|
|mariah9999||One more question to ask. Could it be a bad PCV valve? I'm just trying to cover everything. Thanks.|
|10-22-2009 09:03 PM|
|jpoutlaw||I had this problem on a Bronco..... maybe a fuel relay is faulty? I'm not an expert so take my advice with a grain of salt.|
|10-22-2009 08:39 PM|
On my Dakota, the IAC would not cause those types of symptoms...the IAC is an IDLE air controller. Symptoms of a bad IAC would be...starting and immediately dying (refusing to idle), or when switching between gears (Park to Drive, Drive to Reverse, etc where it idles down before switching), it may nearly stall or stall out. Never displayed any kind of problems while driving down the road however. I would assume it would be the same on a Jeep.
There are 3 things that are crucial for an engine to run...fuel, fire, and air. So those are the things you wanna check.
Air is simple really...is your air filter dirty? Is your exhaust pinched/clogged up? That's not likely your problem. Just explaining what you'd check.
Fire...I'm not sure how these Jeeps are setup so I can't comment much on that. Coil packs or distributor? One of the components in the system may be going bad...such as an ignition coil or something along those lines causing it to stop firing and die.
Fuel...can be a lot of things...most commonly fuel pump or injectors.
Of course then with newer vehicles we also have to consider the likelihood of sensors going bad...which is often the main source of problems.
CPS sensor would fall in this section and could possibly be it...on the Dakotas, it typically threw a CEL when it started going bad, but who knows on a Jeep?
|10-22-2009 04:48 PM|
|mariah9999||Oh and it definitely runs for more than a second or two.|
|10-22-2009 04:47 PM|
|10-22-2009 03:56 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||SKIM faults allow it to start, run for a second or two at the most, then it shuts off like you turned the ignition off.|
|10-22-2009 03:48 PM|
Just throwing it out there...
Anyone? Could it be related to the SKIM module, if there is one on the vehicle?
|10-22-2009 03:43 PM|
|10-22-2009 03:41 PM|
Part of the problem maybe that your jeep dosent like being called a car.
Seriously, I had a car and it was a car, but it had a dirty fuel filter and it acted somewhat like your jeep. You could start it up and it ran fine until you drove about a mile and it would quit, let it rest for about 5 minutes and it would start and run for another mile or two and quit. What was happening was that the dirt caught in the filter would settle down to the bottom of the filter and all was good, but when you drove the car which required more gas going through the filter, the particles would clog up around the filter line out and choke off the fuel to the engine. I'm not sure if jeeps have the type of filter that would do this but it's something to consider.
Good luck fixing the problem!
|10-22-2009 03:36 PM|
Don't bother replacing the fuel filter, that is NOT the problem. The TJ's fuel filter's surface area is positively huge and does not clog, it is considered by the factory as a lifetime filter. Plus you'd have to drop the fuel tank to even get to the fuel filter.
The first sensor I would try replacing is the crankshaft position sensor as it is the one that most commonly causes this problem.
|10-22-2009 03:25 PM|
Thanks for the replies. I cleaned the throttle body and removed and cleaned the air control sensor. I thought that was it and it seemed to be OK until today when I started the Jeep at 3:15 PM this afternoon. It started up and stopped on me while it was still in park. It did the same thing where it hiccuped about 30 seconds after starting then kept going until about 20 seconds later and the engine stopped. No check engine light or anything came on.
Planning on changing the fuel filter and replacing the two CPS sensors mentioned to try to get this to stop once and for all. Any other ideas? Thanks again.
|10-12-2009 03:54 PM|
|woods453||I was gonna say battery too. Corrosion. It causes a lot of problems.|
|10-12-2009 10:49 AM|
Did you check your battery connections?! Start simple and then work forward. Loose connections could account for the intermittant stalling.
|10-11-2009 08:42 PM|
That sounds like the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) may be getting flakey. The CPS generates the engine's master electronic timing signal by generating pulses from notches cut into the flywheel. The CPS is mounted where the transmission bolts to the engine, up high on the driver's side.
The "other" CPS is the camshaft position sensor which can cause the exact same symptom but it is better protected by its location inside a housing atop the shaft that used to hold the distributor on the passenger side of the engine so it's the less likely sensor of the two to go bad.
No guarantees but the crankshaft position sensor can go bad (it's pretty common) and when it does, it causes your exact symptom. Good luck with it, I hope the bad part is something cheap and easy to replace like either of those two sensors.
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