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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-16-2013 12:40 PM
Smadja hm... well completed the install...
what issues should I be looking for regarding the MC?
what symptom would tell me the OEM is insufficient?
08-15-2013 10:49 AM
TeraFlex It should be fine. inspect the bleeder for any cracks and when you fill it just look for leaks. If the valve is damaged you should be able to snag one at the local napa.

Smadja from the info we have it seems like the 2012 needs the MC. It seems like in 2013 Jeep put a larger MC on the wrangler, but I spoke to someone with a 2013 the other day and they needed the new larger MC so I don't think the info we got from Jeep is quite accurate.
08-14-2013 07:41 PM
Smadja also, trying to put locktight on the caliper bolts I was loosening them to expose more thread when the caliper dropped off... fell from about a foot (wheel height)... hit the ground on it back (ie bleeder side).. bleeder left a nice mark on the cement floor... bleeder cap has a whole in it.... no other signs (ie cracks) visible.. should I be concerned or is this thing strong enough? any symptoms to look for?
08-14-2013 10:15 AM
Smadja
Thx Teraflex.. so the longer ones in the rear...
Now can you confirm a 2012 Rubicon does NOT need a new master cylinder and your kit is ok to run with OEM one?
08-14-2013 09:58 AM
TeraFlex Not sure how the crown lines are but our lines look identical other than length. We have 26" long ones for the front and 30" for the rear. Hope this helps some.
08-14-2013 12:02 AM
Smadja So I just received my big brake kit from teraflex today as well as the crown lines (set of 4)... What I don't understand is how do u know which of the lines are front and which are rear? I didn't see any indicators... Did I miss something? Could they be all the same length? (I didn't lay them out side by side yet).
Standing by :-) - am starting the install 9 am
08-08-2013 09:54 AM
TeraFlex The slotted rotors are there to help evacuate the gasses that are generated when braking so that the pad can maintain better contact, and they are sexy.
08-07-2013 03:42 PM
HK_Runner Any benefit to slotted rotors? I just order some expensive stuff from you guys today but the rotors may be my next upgrade for even better stopping power.
08-07-2013 03:38 PM
TeraFlex over 60% of the braking is done by the front brakes. While one could up grade the rears you just wouldn't see the same results as you do on the front. The time this changes if you are towing a lot of equipment, hence why 3/4 on trucks come with large rear brakes.
08-07-2013 02:15 PM
HK_Runner But those are just front rotors, right TeraFlex? Why no rear rotors? I know on bikes the front is more important and usually bigger but is there no benefit in using larger rear rotors. My wheels are 17" in size. Not sure if the slotted rotors make any difference or if they wear the pads fatser.
08-07-2013 11:52 AM
TeraFlex We do have a big rotor kit that gives you a larger rotor and a bracket to reuse your stock caliper.
The 4303480 and 4303490 kits are now available for sale. These kits include:
• Two front caliper brackets that space the factory calipers farther away from the unit bearing, allowing space for a larger rotor to be run
• a pair of plain big rotors (4303480), or a pair of slotted rotors (4303490)

The vehicle must be equipped with 17” or larger wheels for the kit to fit.
08-06-2013 08:49 PM
HK_Runner Someday I would like to install bigger rotors. I recently switch to Black Magic pads and Centric rots. The difference is significant though the rotor is about the same size. It's all in the pads. I can stop a lot quicker with my 35s than I could with a stock setup. I imagine these pads with bigger rotors would be incredible.
08-06-2013 08:35 PM
crypple
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smadja View Post
Great write up... but how were you able to select brake lines 1 inch longer than stock? I am currently trying to do the same but am unable to find any information on the stock lines' dimension, nor do the aftermarket sellers (including crown) list the lengths available... they only sell based on lift...

finally, I spoke to teralex and they say upgrading the master cylinder is not needed for 12-current models... any thoughts on this? Mine is a 12 and if I can save the extra $200.. why not.

Thx !
Brake was soft and awful until I installed the stainless lines. Can't remember the length but crown has them listed on their site, 1" over stock is for the 1" lift kit and vice versa. Call them to be sure. I opted for the master cylinder and am glad I did, bigger is better. But also perhaps unnecessary.
08-06-2013 02:25 PM
TeraFlex I would also suggest driving the Jeep for a few days and re-bleeding the system. When doing massive overhaul work like this it's very easy for air to get trapped in the ABS block and give a funky pedal.
08-06-2013 01:17 PM
Smadja Great write up... but how were you able to select brake lines 1 inch longer than stock? I am currently trying to do the same but am unable to find any information on the stock lines' dimension, nor do the aftermarket sellers (including crown) list the lengths available... they only sell based on lift...

finally, I spoke to teralex and they say upgrading the master cylinder is not needed for 12-current models... any thoughts on this? Mine is a 12 and if I can save the extra $200.. why not.

Thx !
10-18-2012 04:52 PM
enjerhoo Thanksfor the info! Great writeup. Added to my list.

& from my wife: THANKS A HELLUVALOT FOR GIVING HIM MORE REASONS TO SPEND MONEY!
10-18-2012 04:43 PM
crypple Not sure about the 16", I'd call Teraflex to check, they're pretty helpful and really knowledgeable about jeeps.

As for the master cylinder, no it's not a requirement, I just took their advice and added it to help combat the 'soft pedal'... but as I noted, I got a soft pedal anyway. That was solved with the braided stainless lines which should be considered mandatory. The stock lines are not long enough to accomplish a safe install.
10-18-2012 04:30 PM
enjerhoo next question

Looks like you are running the stock 18" wheel and tire setup with planty of clearance.

Obviously a 15" wheel won't work but is there enough clearance to run a 16" wheel? Can you give a measurement of the clearance around the caliper?

And the question from El Cheapo Grande - is the big bore master cylinder mandatory?
10-18-2012 04:19 PM
crypple
Quote:
Originally Posted by enjerhoo View Post
I assume this is for the front axle only. Did you price the rear axle conversion?
They have references to the Rear Brake kit on Quadratec but I spoke to Teraflex and they do not have one in production
10-18-2012 04:07 PM
enjerhoo I assume this is for the front axle only. Did you price the rear axle conversion?
10-18-2012 03:57 PM
panthermark Great write-up!

That is something I'll have to think about if I ever come into some extra cash.
10-18-2012 03:53 PM
crypple The Wilwood's look better and at 14" (vs 13") would presumably have more stopping power. I'm very satisfied with the TF kit though so in retrospect I wouldn't spend another $1100 on the Wilwood system. If I had a huge lift kit, tires and extra heavy gear though I'd go Wilwood... what's an extra $1k to get the accountant to write off?
10-18-2012 03:42 PM
Mopar2Ya Nice write up, the TF kit looks nice. I wonder how it compares to the Wilwood 4 piston kit @ ~$1700?
10-14-2012 02:56 PM
crypple
Update on correct brake line routing

G'day all,
A quick update to correct a mistake I made in the install. I spoke to Crown Performance brake lines who rightly pointed out that I had installed their brake lines 'pointing in' rather than 'pointing up' as they are on the stock setup. I had installed them pointing inwards because:
  1. The Teraflex instructions (and video) said so
  2. The stock lines, when installed 'pointing up' were not long enough and stretched dangerously on full wheel lock.
I quickly flipped them back to stock direction today (make sure you purchase new crush washers, old ones cannot be reused !!) and the install is now perfect. Please note that the brake lines I ordered are 1" over stock, the lines (at stock length) actually give you about 1" more than stock anyway as they are bracketed differently, so the new Crown lines are effectively about 2" longer than stock which now gives me the length I need to turn lock to lock with no fouling and now limiting out of the lines. I also tested them on a high jack with the axle allowed to droop and there is plenty of room in the lines.


Now I am fully satisfied with the install and the brakes are awesome. I fully recommend the setup to anyone wanting to impove on stock performance with the caveat that also purchasing longer brake lines than stock should be considered a requirement.


Here are some pics of the final brake line routing lock to lock





Wheel fully turned in



Wheel fulled turned out. Note the clearance that now exists between the elbow bend of the brake line and the suspension
10-10-2012 09:35 PM
smaxberry
Quote:
Originally Posted by crypple
A quick update after installing a set of Crown Performance custom stainless brake lines. I had them made 1" over stock to account for the larger discs and the install was relatively simple.

PERFORMANCE
Night and day compared to the last review. The softness to the pedal is completely gone and the brakes are more responsive resulting in even slightly improved stopping performance. Most importantly I now feel like I have control over the pedal again. There is now a definite floor to the pedal (where it would ever so slightly continually sink to the floor on hard braking) and it feels nice and firm. I'm stoked.

If you're thinking about doing this mod I highly recommend it. With the Big Brake Kit, new master cylinder and new brake lines it all came in at around $950. It'll pay for itself in peace of mind if not prevented damages

CROWN BRAKE LINES
I'm very impressed with the performance of these lines but it's worth noting a couple of things.

[*]They use their own brackets and you will need to bend your brake lines slightly to allow them to fit properly.[*]The front LH wheel suspension bracket is a PITA to install. It's actually slightly different to stock and doesn't quite fit right. Count on needing a pair of pliers to bend the metal tabs around a bit until you can shimmy it in there. You do not need to remove the shock.[*]The ends of the front brake line bends still contact the suspension strut at full lock. I'll keep an eye on it for wear and I'm not overly concerned right now, but I wish they'd made this bend 45 degrees instead of 90. I can see it getting bashed around a bit on the trail but being stainless braid I'm sure it's pretty tough. I may get a pipe bender on it this weekend to correct the problem.

Here's a couple of shots from the install

Condoms are great for collecting brake fluid... do not reuse though (the condom or the fluid )

Crown lines at caliper. Wish this bend was closer to 45 degrees than 90 as it fouls on the suspension at full lock.

Supplied LHS bracket in place. ABS line re-routed and ziptied (discarded bracket)

LHS Suspension bracket in place. Note bent tab on left side. Also straighten the inner aligning tab for ease of fitment.

RHS bracket in place. Repositioned the ABS bracket on this side.

Final routing

Full Lock fouling

Full Lock fouling close up
Yup! Just got promoted to my need list. Thanks for the update.
10-10-2012 08:29 PM
crypple
Update after Stainless steel brake line install

A quick update after installing a set of Crown Performance custom stainless brake lines. I had them made 1" over stock to account for the larger discs and the install was relatively simple.

PERFORMANCE
Night and day compared to the last review. The softness to the pedal is completely gone and the brakes are more responsive resulting in even slightly improved stopping performance. Most importantly I now feel like I have control over the pedal again. There is now a definite floor to the pedal (where it would ever so slightly continually sink to the floor on hard braking) and it feels nice and firm. I'm stoked.

If you're thinking about doing this mod I highly recommend it. With the Big Brake Kit, new master cylinder and new brake lines it all came in at around $950. It'll pay for itself in peace of mind if not prevented damages

CROWN BRAKE LINES
I'm very impressed with the performance of these lines but it's worth noting a couple of things.
  • They use their own brackets and you will need to bend your brake lines slightly to allow them to fit properly.
  • The front LH wheel suspension bracket is a PITA to install. It's actually slightly different to stock and doesn't quite fit right. Count on needing a pair of pliers to bend the metal tabs around a bit until you can shimmy it in there. You do not need to remove the shock.
  • The ends of the front brake line bends still contact the suspension strut at full lock. I'll keep an eye on it for wear and I'm not overly concerned right now, but I wish they'd made this bend 45 degrees instead of 90. I can see it getting bashed around a bit on the trail but being stainless braid I'm sure it's pretty tough. I may get a pipe bender on it this weekend to correct the problem.
Here's a couple of shots from the install



Condoms are great for collecting brake fluid... do not reuse though (the condom or the fluid )


Crown lines at caliper. Wish this bend was closer to 45 degrees than 90 as it fouls on the suspension at full lock.


Supplied LHS bracket in place. ABS line re-routed and ziptied (discarded bracket)


LHS Suspension bracket in place. Note bent tab on left side. Also straighten the inner aligning tab for ease of fitment.


RHS bracket in place. Repositioned the ABS bracket on this side.


Final routing


Full Lock fouling


Full Lock fouling close up
10-09-2012 09:40 AM
crypple
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohioviper
So if the pads are from a Ram truck are the calipers as well ? Might be a cheap upgrade if the stock Ram caliper and pads work.
I thought so too, in doing my research though it appears the calipers are similar but the mounting points are different. The entire bolt on kit is only $680 including pads and rotors. To me that's a pretty good deal and I'm not one to mess with untested mods on something as important as brakes. Just out of interest though I'd be interested to hear about any other bolt on solutions. I did see a few people that were ordering the Jeep 13" rotors and calipers from Australian and European dealers. Apparently the US is the only market that got the 11" front rotors and single piston calipers, I can't fathom why that would be but JK's apparently have better brakes overseas.
10-08-2012 03:41 PM
ohioviper So if the pads are from a Ram truck are the calipers as well ? Might be a cheap upgrade if the stock Ram caliper and pads work.
10-08-2012 03:29 PM
smaxberry Thanks for the update and mud report, that is all there really is here in Charleston, SC. Right now they are going to remain high on my wish list, I maybe getting new lines due to my spring I have on order. But, depending on your review after the brake line install, I may tell the wife I have to have them now.
10-08-2012 12:26 PM
crypple I've actually gotten pretty used to the brakes and, after reassessing my initial reaction, I think that most people would be satisfied with the performance of the stock brake lines. They're a little spongy but after a couple of days of driving they actually firmed up quite a bit. Maybe it's me getting used to it but it could also be the brakes just bedding in properly.

Regardless I ended up buying stainless steel brake lines from Crown Performance as I'm still a little uncomfortable with the crimping of the stock lines plus I want the brakes as firm as possible. I'll be installing in the next couple of days and will post new images and results.

If you're contemplating the Big Brake upgrade, I say go for it, they're really great. I know for sure it's already saved me from an accident already (a car ran a stop sign and I had to really get on the brakes to avoid the moron. I think with the stocks on I would have gone straight through him) and I'm really enjoying the extra control and braking power offroad (no noticeable slip or clogging to the slotted discs in mud BTW)
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