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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-03-2013 09:44 AM
lee indy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matador View Post
True but under extreme articulation with lifted Jeeps the links are close to perpendicular, if they are still attached which means they could sway back onto itself. The best option is to totally disconnect and avoid the 50/50 risk.
agreed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodysgotacuda View Post
I run might a tad high, maybe +5* over parallel. As mentioned, if you have a ton of droop, you can still put it in a bind with parallel links. I've never had any trouble with my links staying connected on my rig.
thats how i have mine set to. thats why it was a general guide line. like matador said disco is the solution.

ive seen a 2 in lift with stock links invert on a dirt road tho.

quick discos are so easy to make why this is even a problem is just laziness.

DIY Quick Discos.
01-03-2013 09:26 AM
dirtybiketrash I asked this question the other day on another thread, this clears it up perfectly for me. Thanks for the bump.
01-03-2013 09:06 AM
WatchThis!
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodysgotacuda View Post

I run might a tad high, maybe +5* over parallel. As mentioned, if you have a ton of droop, you can still put it in a bind with parallel links.
I run just a bit over that, but I am not worried about streat manners.
01-03-2013 09:01 AM
goodysgotacuda
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee indy View Post
the rule of thumb is your sway bar should be parallel to the ground when sitting flat.
I run might a tad high, maybe +5* over parallel. As mentioned, if you have a ton of droop, you can still put it in a bind with parallel links. I've never had any trouble with my links staying connected on my rig.
01-03-2013 08:56 AM
Matador
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee indy View Post
the rule of thumb is your sway bar should be parallel to the ground when sitting flat.
True but under extreme articulation with lifted Jeeps the links are close to perpendicular, if they are still attached which means they could sway back onto itself. The best option is to totally disconnect and avoid the 50/50 risk.
01-03-2013 08:35 AM
lee indy the rule of thumb is your sway bar should be parallel to the ground when sitting flat.
01-03-2013 08:32 AM
KE4AEK First post, so please be patient.
I added to my 2013 Wrangler Sport-S a Rock Hard 4x4 full-width front bumper and a Quadratec Q9000 winch. This resulted in a net gain of 220 lb to the front end, which lowered it by ~ 2 inches. A TeraFlex 2" spacer kit raised it to the original height within half an inch. Because there was no net gain in height, I did not replace the original sway bar links with the longer TeraFlex units. After reading this thread, I am wondering if I did the right thing. ??
01-03-2013 07:54 AM
Matador Great advice. Just let me add something to the Brake Line length comment. Most 2.5" kits that include stainless lines aren't "longer" than the stock ones. Instead, these new lines offer the advantage of a SS line and eliminate the mounting bracket that hinders travel. If you are on a budget, you can remove the bracket, ziptie the line to the shock and get the same clearance benefit from most SS lines included in these 2.5" lift kits.

I was always under the false impression that the Crown brake lines supplied with the 2.5" RK kits for example were longer, but after several installs and length comparison they are identical to the stock lines. You can buy longer lines separately but most people just use what is offered in the kit.

In terms of the swaybar disconnect, the best advice is to fully disconnect when you'll be doing any type of flexing. Again, if your on a budget, simply unbolting and secure the link against the bar with a zip tie is enough. Aftermarket links just makes the process easier and stable overall by keeping the swaybar parallel. With that said, I have seen perfectly paralleled sway bars still wrap around on a Rubicon when it fully flexed. The tolerance is so tight when the system is dislocated through the motor that it can go either way when fully articulated. The best best is to just skip the motor and fully disconnect manually if your running any type of lift.
10-22-2012 03:23 PM
kramer2k
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPDON View Post
Get longer brake lines if you flex it hard. Brake lines make very poor limiting straps!!
+1

It became very apparent pretty quickly once I started installing my RK 2.5" MT lift that the factory brake lines weren't going to cut it. I started dropping the axle and they immediately maxed out. I freaked and went ahead and did the brake line replacement first.
10-22-2012 03:12 PM
JeepHerz PLuke- if you have the guys contact info. (I assume he is in Cali).We have extended Teraflex front sway bar links practically brand new. Less than 1000 miles on them.
Also this: cheap way to replace the motor. Would be manual but uses the same housing. EVO: Suspension / Steering, EVO MFG(9q) NoLimits Manual Rubicon Swaybar Disconnect

We bought our Rubi sway bar for my JK used/take-off from a local shop. Works perfect- well, as perfect as the e-discos work.
10-22-2012 03:00 PM
SilverSport
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPDON View Post
Get longer brake lines if you flex it hard. Brake lines make very poor limiting straps!!
X2. Longer brake lines are cheap insurance for a very important safety item.
10-22-2012 02:52 PM
JEEPDON
Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMintheJK View Post
I have a 2.5" Teraflex lift on my 09. The rear sway bar links were moved to the front, so no problems. My question is about break lines. If I get the JKS disconnects, will I have an issue with over extending the break lines? I was told by someone on the trail that he did not have to extend them, but just want to make sure.
Get longer brake lines if you flex it hard. Brake lines make very poor limiting straps!!
10-22-2012 10:57 AM
JIMintheJK I have a 2.5" Teraflex lift on my 09. The rear sway bar links were moved to the front, so no problems. My question is about break lines. If I get the JKS disconnects, will I have an issue with over extending the break lines? I was told by someone on the trail that he did not have to extend them, but just want to make sure.
07-21-2012 10:14 PM
sandbaja Nice visual with the pics. I understand now.
07-21-2012 09:58 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOCJK
After I put my leveling kit in I was unable to install the longer sway bar links because they are not tapered like the like the factory links. I need to drill them out but haven't had a chance mostly because I don't own a good drill yet. I've just been disconnecting anytime I'm wheeling to avoid any issues. Seeing as I have the rubi with the expensive motor am I avoiding the risk by disconnecting or is there still a possibility i could wreck the motor with the smaller links up front? Also, is there an advantage to putting the longer rear links in the front and the new links in the back?
A lot of kits reuse the rears in the front. Do that and get new ones for the rear.
07-21-2012 09:50 PM
JOCJK After I put my leveling kit in I was unable to install the longer sway bar links because they are not tapered like the like the factory links. I need to drill them out but haven't had a chance mostly because I don't own a good drill yet. I've just been disconnecting anytime I'm wheeling to avoid any issues. Seeing as I have the rubi with the expensive motor am I avoiding the risk by disconnecting or is there still a possibility i could wreck the motor with the smaller links up front? Also, is there an advantage to putting the longer rear links in the front and the new links in the back?
07-21-2012 09:33 PM
Beastmaster I want to re-visit this thread because (for me) this is an important issue. I bought a used '07 JKU that already had a 2.5" lift on it. It looks like the PO did it on the cheap because I have had several problems, all (I believe) related to short sway bar links. I love my rig and have had a good time getting to know my front end.
I had the same problem pluke the 2's buddy had. Seems the PO left the stock sway bar links in place when he did the lift. Thanks the WF, I am now aware that you want your sway bar to be level +/- 5 degrees and you can see from my first picture, I am definately not. On recommendations from people on the forum I picked up some JKS quick disconnect links. Very easy install, took all of 30 minutes.
07-06-2012 07:21 PM
SilverSport Ouch. But good advice!
07-06-2012 07:17 PM
kjeeper10 How much lift was involved ?
07-06-2012 06:22 PM
Beastmaster Holy crap, I can relate. this is exactly what happened to me! I just posted this today: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/lif...on-171713.html

I had problems after a brief ride on the 4th and was fortunately close enough to limp it home to fix it without any permanent damage.

Good post, it came a little too late for me but hopefully it will help someone else.



07-06-2012 05:50 PM
pluke the 2
Why You Want to Run Longer Sway Bar Links In The Front End While Off Roading

The pictures below do not represent my Jeep but this happened while I was trail leading these men out on one of our local rides.

This is why you want to run long sway bar links with any lift:

You can tell in this photo that his Sway Bar rotated the wrong way..



Not only did this guy break and taco his swaybar and swaybar link, he so happened to be one of the lucky one's who own a Rubicon which has a fancy Electronic Swaybar Motor where it can disengage and automatically disconnect. Because he did not install longer sway bar links up front he also broke his Electronic Swaybar Disconnecting motor... As some people know, this motor costs a few grand from the factory and is known/prone to break... The moral of the story is to at the very least, buy the cheap longer sway bar links or move the rear sway bar links (that are longer) to the front, install new and/or longer ones in the rear (normally supplied with your kit), and if you have a Rubicon with the automatic sway bar motor it's always better to fully disconnect...

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