|11-18-2013 05:50 PM|
|IP0VV3R||Does anyone have a wiring diagram for rigid dually's? It'd be much appreciated|
|11-12-2013 08:32 PM|
|kjb914||I have a 13 JKUR I put Jw Speakers 8700 Evo's in about 8 months ago. The flicker is getting slightly worse so I got the TL anti flicker harness. But now when my jeeps off and locked and I go to unlock it with the remote …it looks like a fu**Kin dance party!! Full strobe light until I turn it on. I'd rather deal with the slight flicker… Has this happened to anyone else???|
|11-11-2013 09:42 AM|
|11-10-2013 02:12 AM|
|Brad01||How the hell do I install my truck lite fogs that I up just received today??????|
|11-05-2013 01:27 AM|
Here's all the info if you're interested:
|11-04-2013 05:10 AM|
I have had Truck lights on my past jeep, i have to say HID is the way to go.
It has alot wider and brighter beam pattern, and you have manage to adjust the pattern yourself like the stock lights incase if you lift your jeep higher (lower the pattern a bit).
Among the temparature, i always get 4300k-5000k, this way its not too ricey like civic 8000k HID more like lexus HID with halogen lights. And this comparison wins because its like $500 versus $50.
|10-30-2013 11:19 PM|
Anyone have the KC Hilites replacement LED headlights?
How would they compare to the trucklites?
|10-30-2013 11:26 AM|
So how would they organize things in Santa Clarita?
By brand? By lumens? By price? Then I'd still have to read all the sub-threads to compare.
I still agree there is a divergence of interests here. Maybe a breakdown for "Off road" and "On road"? Then maybe an off-road breakout between lights that need other mods, like wiring harnesses and diodes, and more straightforward applications like replacing OEM fog lamps with LEDs? But then I don't know what to call that sub-thread.
Like all message boards, this one is not easily searchable, but I can't think of a simple way to make it so.
|10-17-2013 07:55 PM|
|10-16-2013 12:57 AM|
Too many posts and pages to read all this stuff so, at the risk of posting something that's already been posted:
* I highly recommend you contact Wil at Rally Lights, Hella, TerraTrip, Hans, WRC, ZAMP - RallyLights.com (Susquehanna Motorsports) - they make great products and they know their stuff and they'll talk to you about what they know and take the time to explain it.
* I have heard that Daniel Stern buys his harnesses from them. You can do that too if you're so inclined.
* I bought my headlight replacements from them - Hella E-Code lights with Xenon +50% bulbs (white not blue). They work great and are far less than the Truck-Lites and Speakers. (I have plenty of LEDs to supplement my headlights so I feel no need to spend hundreds on my headlights).
Oh, and if this is the "official light thread" it's (IMO) almost useless. Who can spend the time to read it all?! Separate threads based on subject/mod are infinitely better.
|10-14-2013 11:07 PM|
Oh, I see what you are trying to do now. I didn't realize the relay would get fried from the PWM. I hadn't seen that before. Those uses of the caps are to fix flickering headlights, but I guess they would smooth the feed to the relay just as well.
|10-14-2013 10:20 PM|
I may have answered my own Q -- found this wisdom buried in the thread:
<<< For the buzzing relays, all you need is a capacitor in parallel with the lowbeam line coming from the H13 connector. I'm not sure what value you need to use but I've seen 4700uf being used to smooth out DRLs. Im sure it can smooth out a notchy lowbeam too. >>>
Is that all, folks? In my case I'd use it on the highs, of course...
|10-14-2013 09:44 PM|
Hi beam wire to control DL relay?
I agree 100% tapping the hi beam wire to control my relay is what I wanted to do. But according to the thread, it seems if I do that I'll burn out my relay due to the pulsed current (from the hi beam wire I tap) hitting my relay. Right? Or is the power feed to the hi beam not affected by PWM? If not, I'm fine. But I thought that was the case.
So I think I need a solution to getting non-PWM'd controlling voltage at my relay. Which seems to be the cap/diode solution. I'm happy to do that, I'm just not sure where in the KC harness to use them. As I have the KC harness which includes fuse, relay holder, relay, miles of cased wire, etc., I'm hoping to modify that rather than make my own.
Maybe my best bet is to just make all the connections without installing anything, and see if the relay buzzes or the lights flicker. There's certainly nothing on Quadratec or Amazon about this issue (yet).
|10-14-2013 04:28 PM|
I may be missing something here, but I think you are looking at the wrong solution here. You could use an SMS type harness, but not the one we usually talk about here because it is for the headlights. The cap/diode solution you are talking about is to cure the pulse width modulation (PWM) issue with the power feed to the headlight. You don't want that. You want to take the signal for the high beam, use it to turn on a relay, and have that relay powered straight off the battery. You could buy a harness to do this, but it is pretty straightforward to make one.
Basically it would be just like your diagram you linked, but using the high beam switch instead of a normal switch.
|10-14-2013 10:31 AM|
Q re: TLGA harness
My situation is I'm not touching my '13 JKUR's headlights (at the moment). I just want to install a set of KC Slimlites to switch on/off with my hi beams for better lighting offroad and back roads in Maine. As I understand from hours of reading this thread beginning to end, I need to cure the WPM coming from the high beam signal wire or it'll fry my included KC relay (quickly or eventually). Correct? So, the Q is will this harness work like a SMS one? I assume NOT, because this adapts the wiring to a new socket type (H13 to H4).
Thus, seems like my choices are go SMS or solder in the cap/diode solution. Does that make sense to the gurus here? If I am using the KC harness*, can anyone ID the wires between which I need to solder the cap/diode? I would REALLY appreciate that help. Thanks much.
*KC harness instrux/diagram:
|10-05-2013 04:18 PM|
My 2012 Rubicon needed better lights for drives on dark mountain roads.
Wanted something stealthy and close to stock look. Got the bi-halogen Hella headlight replacemet set up from SMS. Works great for me with razor sharp focus.
|09-22-2013 08:09 PM|
He, DS knows his stuff but seems like an ass. I'm sure there are other lights and experts that will do the job just as well. He could have used his knowledge and virbiage more effectively if he wasn't a dickhead and perhaps tried teaching instead of bullying.
|09-22-2013 08:00 PM|
Right there with you. The guy sounds like an ass.
|09-18-2013 07:41 PM|
Any expert in their field should have the ability to take a concept and explain it in a way in which the layman can understand.
I see it done every single day by people with credentials that dwarf yourself's and Dan's. Actually, a doctorate candidate with a B.S. in Electrical Engineering, and a Masters in Theoretical Physics (a true expert) was explaining dark matter to me last week. Yet, yourself and Dan completely refuse to and instead say "trust us". So please, go ahead and explain exactly why the Morimotos are inferior. Do you think that the explanation is above understanding? Because I don't think it is if you have a valid argument. Elaborate on what is technically wrong with them.
I'm not sure if you gentlemen consider yourself superior to the masses and unworthy of your explanation, or if you do not have an argument at all.
|09-18-2013 08:27 AM|
It's a hatchet-job. To somebody inside the industry, it's a joke. If you're not inside the industry, you don't get the joke...
I realize that might hurt but that's how it is.
I have a friend that just replaced two 7" HID offroad lights with a big LED lightbar. He remarked that he could see much better offroad at night now.
We had previously tested the HIDs and I had to set my light meter to a higher scale to measure them. Stupid bright at 75 yards.
Well, we tested the LED lightbar. 1 LUX at 50 yards. One. Same as the moonlight we were testing by.
He's still running the lightbar though. Likes it better.
I work in test and measurement. That's what I do 5 days a week. I work for the best of the best in the world. I work for scientists, genius type, rocket scientists, etc. I'm not a scientist; I'm an administrator.
I've learned to trust and follow experts. Be coachable. Learn. Use their smarts to acheive success.
Dan's cranky but I understand why. He's telling you that the emperor has no clothes and you keep insisting that the dude is wearing Armani. The same arguments have been hurtling at him for decades and it tires a guy out.
Lights aren't a fashion accessory for me; they're essential safety equipment. I'm a safety-guy.
I'm a do-it-yourselfer too but I know when I'm out of my league and ask for help. Dan has been helping me figure out lighting for over a decade. Thanks, Dan.
|09-10-2013 09:24 AM|
|AlaricD||Regarding the third pic: "Astonished Jeep is astonished!"|
|09-09-2013 09:04 AM|
Rigid LED's & Truck Lites
Just thought I would share my two cents here since I bought some off-road LED's. I also recently added the Truck-Lite LED's to my rig, but don't have pictures of them yet. However, what I can tell you. Spend the money on the Truck Lites...they are well worth it. 1st they are Made in America and when you feel them & see them in action you will get that "oh yeah...American Made" feeling. 2nd, they crush the bulb upgrades and factory lights. My off-road LED's are all Rigid Industries. I have the Dually Fog's, D2 Driving, & the 10" Combo mounted at the winch. I do plan to add the 50" Combo over the winter but need to pay off some of the stuff I bought before my wife kills me.
|09-08-2013 12:40 AM|
|darksahara||I've done HID's in every vehicle that I've owned but the new CANBUS system worries me. I don't want buy a system that may not work and I don't have the extra money for the Truck-Lite's.|
|09-02-2013 06:45 PM|
There are other threads for legality or what not, and I understand why it was explained not to speak of such things here as it can quickly turn into a heated debate.
I can tell you though, I have no experience in regards to the science behind HID or LED or halogen, though I am experienced in the laws in my state.
I am just the average Jeep enthusiast that enjoys the forums.
BUUUT, I will say, though Stern may have the best looking resume... his delivery was terrible. If your reading this, your an expert, share your knowledge man! I understand it being frustrating for people to come on here and spout (what you think) nonsense but educate us. But instead I feel that your post was arrogant and belittling.
I can honestly say, I considered purchasing some products from Stern but looks like I am going elsewhere.
I am going planning on a H1 projector retrofit from TRS.
|09-01-2013 01:44 PM|
|08-24-2013 11:55 PM|
Very nice! Did you use the minis? I never had my TJ long enough to do a retro. I was satisfied with an H4 conversion housing lol.
I always make my own harnesses. The JK was a bit problematic in that it has really odd duty cycles while the engine is running - making it hard to solve with a simple capacitor harness. Ended up having to build a circuit with lowpass filters, comparators, and logic gates to ,maintain proper operation of high, low, and DRLs.
|08-24-2013 01:54 PM|
Here's how mine turned out
|08-23-2013 10:52 AM|
I do - 2013 Jeep Wrangler Retrofit
However, I have updated the circuit to use bigger transistors (2N2219) and I would suggest protection diodes at the relays which I forgot to add in my initial design.
|08-23-2013 09:36 AM|
|08-23-2013 09:33 AM|
I have 'Morimoto mini' H1 HID projectors in my factory housings and I love them. People stop and ask me about them all the time
What blows people away though is the wiring harness I had to build in order to get it all working.
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