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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 03:14 PM
GoldenSahara00 What he said.
Today 02:37 PM
Digger84 1) you have to use new copper washers at all fittings including 2 at any banjo fitting if will never work if you crack a fitting loose or open and try to reuse the old copper washer seal

2) Bleed from furthest to closest right rear, next left rear, then right front, then left front (assuming left hand drive jeep) Gotta do all four in proper order and must make sure you never run the master resivour dry or gotta start over and do all four
Bleed each long enough to get ffresh fluid from master all the way to slave

I like using speed bleeders makes it an easy one mad job

I tried all kinds of short cuts but it only worked with new copper washer seals and a proper 4 part bleed and no probs since

Also if your axle is rotated the bleeder on the caliper must be at highest point as that is where air goes so if not have to unbolt caliper and keep it on disc and rotate till bleeder is at top
Today 01:11 PM
tomhelzer Well I didn't know there was a right way. I did how ever start at the farthest brake from the master cylinder.
Today 12:27 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomhelzer View Post
So I've just about got me 8.8 axle swap done. I'm having trouble getting my brakes to stay firm at the brake pedal. I have to pump the brakes a couple of times to get them up firm. Not even sure the back brakes are working. I have bleed them and I have no air in the lines. I have even bleed the front brakes. I did not install the proportioning valve. So I went and got one but not sure where or how it goes? Anyone have any insight or a picture of how it goes in. Thanks in advance.
Did you bleed them in the right order? Mine were a little softer too but still brake just as well I think when I get on them.
Today 11:28 AM
tomhelzer So I've just about got me 8.8 axle swap done. I'm having trouble getting my brakes to stay firm at the brake pedal. I have to pump the brakes a couple of times to get them up firm. Not even sure the back brakes are working. I have bleed them and I have no air in the lines. I have even bleed the front brakes. I did not install the proportioning valve. So I went and got one but not sure where or how it goes? Anyone have any insight or a picture of how it goes in. Thanks in advance.
04-19-2014 11:44 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuder View Post
Anyone use the Ballistic Fab swap kit? Have any problems with it?
No but you hear complaints about the company in general. I can't speak for it. If I was doing a cheap kit id get the mad 4x4. Artec is my choice though.
04-19-2014 08:51 AM
cuder Anyone use the Ballistic Fab swap kit? Have any problems with it?
04-10-2014 06:56 PM
GoldenSahara00 I have all the e brake rebuilt and it still doesn't work. I need new adjustment screws. And to try and adjust them.
04-10-2014 06:17 PM
Wondertwin1 Is all that stuff listed what's needed to make the e brake work properly?
04-10-2014 04:14 PM
Nlburden Due to not finding a d44 for a long long time now ( Canada ).. I just bought a 8.8 from a 98 explorer. has 3.73 Limited slip. My questions is, i plan on doing this relatively cheap because of being a student. However any axle is better then my d35. Here is my first question. out of the list provided can someone tell me what is necessary as in a must?
-TeraFlex Bracket kit Im gonna use Artec truss
-ARB I am gonna use stock Limited Slip/ locked front diff
-U.S. Gears 4.56 going to buy 4.88
As for the rest I do not know what is 100% needed. I have a 5speed 4.0litre TJ

-Master install kit (Timken)
-Crane diff cover
-Napa brake line kit P/N 380528 (x2)
-T-hose NAPA P/N 380889
-ZJ E-brake cables (drivers and passenger side)
Mopar P/N 52008904 & 52008905
NAPA P/N 95342 (right) 95347 (left). (not for YJs)
-Driveshaft adapter: Spicer 2-2-1379
-Flange bolts Ford P/N N800594-S100 (x4)
-'03 TJ Rubicon (w/disc) proportioning valve P/N 5083808AA
-3/16" hard brake line about 40" & 18"
04-09-2014 01:16 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wondertwin1 View Post
Mine is artec truss, all new internals except shafts. New brakes. I'm going to paint it. All the other odds and ends. They're only charging me like 4 hours of labor.
I did all my work myself plus added a few things. Must be getting you on the gears install and welding.
04-09-2014 12:16 PM
Wondertwin1 Mine is artec truss, all new internals except shafts. New brakes. I'm going to paint it. All the other odds and ends. They're only charging me like 4 hours of labor.
04-09-2014 09:14 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wondertwin1 View Post
Easy or cheap? The 8.8 rebuild is setting me back 2 grand
I had less than that in 8.8 w artec truss w/ all new parts minus gears/shafts, TT, cross member, and arms/driveshaft/sye.

You can do an 8.8 for as cheap as ~500 if you want. Or spend a lot more. A front will never be that cheap and will require a lot more extra beef to fix all the weak links or narrow. There isn't a strong half ton front like the 8.8 that's stock width.
04-09-2014 09:03 AM
Wondertwin1 Easy or cheap? The 8.8 rebuild is setting me back 2 grand
04-09-2014 07:43 AM
98 tj sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Craigslist/forums. People toss them all the time.
X2 I just sold a matched set of axles with 3.73 for 250 of course the rear was a 35 but still
04-09-2014 07:12 AM
GoldenSahara00 Personally I think a good match for a rear 8.8 is a real hp44 narrowed to take waggy RCVs. Or custom shafts from them. A front 9 setup would work too. This is for 37s. At 35s you polish up a d30. You can make a d30 survive on 37s if you super polish it but wear parts are gona go fast and there will be those freak breaks much more often. You'll likely be looking at ~3k at least to really do 37s right in the front by the time you're done if you're trying to make a half ton axle work and be reliable with steering etc for 37s. Not as easy or cheap as the rear sadly.
04-09-2014 06:50 AM
berggie
8.8

I am also going with 8.8 and would like to know which front axle to use on 1998 TJ.
04-09-2014 04:21 AM
Wondertwin1 I know this is an 8.8 thread. But what is a good matching axle for the front? I thought about ECGS. But just recently found dynatrac's 44. I still haven't figured out the difference between the prorock and trail unlimited. Price is a little steeper but I really want the capability to run 37's if I'm unhappy with 35's. Just want confidence I guess.
04-08-2014 05:26 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepmonkey06 View Post

Where are you located? I know a guy that does gears for $100.
Says Alabama in his profile.

Craigslist axle should still be cheaper than gears install kit and labor.
04-08-2014 03:20 PM
jeepmonkey06
Quote:
Originally Posted by CGreen View Post
Well on my 3rd 8.8 now, SMH. The first 2 were junk straight from the get go. 1st one had grenaded carrier bearings and a case full of glitter, the second was bent, Now this one seems good. She is all tacked up and ready for a test fit. It is 3.73 LSD I am going to have to re-gear the front to match. It is currently 3.07. Anybody have any budget minded tips for re-gearing the front. It looks like it is going to cost me dang near $500 to 3.73 the front. All the salvage yards around here want $800+ for a donor D30 already geared 3.73. So that is not a option.
Where are you located? I know a guy that does gears for $100.
04-08-2014 10:11 AM
GoldenSahara00 Craigslist/forums. People toss them all the time.
04-08-2014 09:20 AM
CGreen Well on my 3rd 8.8 now, SMH. The first 2 were junk straight from the get go. 1st one had grenaded carrier bearings and a case full of glitter, the second was bent, Now this one seems good. She is all tacked up and ready for a test fit. It is 3.73 LSD I am going to have to re-gear the front to match. It is currently 3.07. Anybody have any budget minded tips for re-gearing the front. It looks like it is going to cost me dang near $500 to 3.73 the front. All the salvage yards around here want $800+ for a donor D30 already geared 3.73. So that is not a option.
04-06-2014 05:48 PM
GoldenSahara00 If I'm reading your post right id go Ahead and weld as long as you know shocks Etc will clear and bolt up. That was my issue doing it how the directions said. Apparently artec has new shock mounts now tho. They even shipped me them free!
04-06-2014 04:27 PM
hoprocket Tacked all brackets up on Aertec truss and all looks good only thing is that I need to finsh all welding and paint then install gears and shafts . Has anybody had trouble with fitment after tacking truss up .? My jeep is a dayily driver and dont want to take axel out and test fit new . I feel I have been spot on with all mounts . I check mesurements after I tacked them on new axel . Any thoughts ???
04-03-2014 09:53 PM
GoldenSahara00 Mine were in good condition so I don't know what to tell ya.


I would get the arms.

You measured the width wrong or have the wrong axle.
04-03-2014 09:12 PM
juan_p__m Do I really need to get adjustable control arms? the tab is really adding up, I only have an Old Man Emu 2.5" lift.

Also, has anyone compared the width measurements between the dana 35 and the ford 8.8, the beginning of the post is very different from what I got:

Dana 35 61"
Ford 8.8 56 5/8"

I am gona run OEM wheels, and want to know what spacers to buy?
04-03-2014 09:01 PM
hoprocket Yea I sandblasted right thru the ones that came with the axel have all other parts cleaned and painted need some nice ones if possible
04-03-2014 08:36 PM
GoldenSahara00 Don't get rusty ones then. Haha. Just clean Em up and paint.
04-03-2014 08:00 PM
hoprocket Yes I can get them there but I don't want more rusty ones
04-03-2014 07:39 PM
GoldenSahara00 The junkyard. They should all be the same.
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