|02-14-2014 07:20 PM|
It ain't the fuel or sensors, it is your spark plugs. The original equipment plugs are way too hot.
Easy to check.
You want about 2 threads showing the heat on the end of the plug and the rest of the threads to be shiny. For a longer reach plug than this one 2.5 to 3 threads is optimum.
To increase the number of burnt threads increase the heat range of the plug, if you have 4-5-6 threads burnt you need to get a colder plug.
One of many sites, Google Spark Plug Read
***The Basics of Reading a Spark Plug*** - Honda-Tech
I had OE Champion RE14PLP5 and I moved down one heat range to NGK LZTR5A-13 to test out. These are plain jane $3-00 plugs
Retested vehicle on my test slope using cruise control, to get my foot out of the equation and same fuel same day, ping was gone.
|12-30-2012 09:16 PM|
|JKWrangler2012||I have been 100% ping-free since I began running 93 octane in July. Please don't flame me or educate me on how unbeneficial my actions are. The ping/knock is completely gone and my peace of mind is back.|
|12-30-2012 02:52 PM|
hello everyone; i have the same problem with my 2010 jeep wrangler islander the pinging starts up hills, even with 91 oct gas i hate that, there's lots off hills where i live dont know what to try
|11-13-2012 04:12 PM|
If the head is going bad and the valves aren't seating properly then all bets are off as to what the o2 sensor might see.
But I am encouraged that I'm hearing little to no ping when previously it was marbles in the can during most of my stop-n-go commute. The very, very slight ping I hear now (that I'm not sure I would have noticed in the beginning) is at a completely different RPM range than it was previously. The majority of my ping occurred in what I believe is 3rd gear during light acceleration between 1400-1600 RPM. Now I hear just a tiny bit at 2100 RPM in 4th or 5th gear and no ping below 2000 RPM.
That could all change tomorrow.
I also saw some ECU/PCM adaptive learning reset instructions for a TJ that involved turning the ignition to ON, Turn headlights ON, Turn headlights OFF, turn ignition to OFF following the capacitance drain. I don't know if that is more or less useful than what I previously did. Maybe I also need to jump up and down and spin around 3 times to make sure it's reset.
|11-13-2012 02:26 PM|
I don't think the battery disconnect method is going to be a permanent fix. AFAIK the ECU is adaptive all the time. It might take a while but it's going to adjust the tuning until it reaches the goal it's looking for. Pretty sure it will go back to where it was before eventually. I'll be monitoring this thread. I hope it works since it's so easy to do.
I think the ECU actually resets partially after each fill-up. Say you bought some bad gas or the wrong grade of gas. The ECU would hear the pinging and reset timing. Then you go back to good gas. The ECU needs to understand it should attempt the more aggressive timing, otherwise it would go through the rest of the vehicle's life with an incorrect timing map. So some ECUs (don't know specifically about Chrysler) detects the fill up and try to go back to standard timing.
Now it might be the case that a head that has partially failed but hasn't gone bad so much that it's set the CEL could be sending unusual exhaust gas mixtures down the exhaust pipe. The O2 sensor might see a gas reading that's not right and give the ECU an inappropriate feedback signal leading to a wrong fuel/air mixture. If the mixture is too lean it could lead to overheating in the combustion chamber and/or pinging.
These are just guesses. I'm no expert.
|11-12-2012 08:47 PM|
|SilverSport||That's just it, I don't lose presets, they stay stored in the radios memory. ThingsAbove does lose his.|
|11-12-2012 08:40 PM|
|amarillojeepguy||you lose presets because you lose power radio no workie without power lol|
|11-12-2012 08:20 PM|
|SilverSport||I had a 2011, now have a 2012. Have disconnected battery on 2012 several times. Once for a few hours when I had to remove the battery tray to get to the top of the shock. Strikes me as odd that you lose your presets.|
|11-12-2012 07:51 PM|
When I owned a Dodge Challenger the recommendation after a PCM reset was to drive it like you stole it, but that was a bit more fun in a Hemi powered Challenger than my minivan powered Jeep.
|11-12-2012 07:38 PM|
Those who "know" sometimes don't "think" and sometimes those who "think they know" don't really "know" and some who "know they don't know" say that they "think".
|11-12-2012 07:13 PM|
|11-12-2012 07:12 PM|
|11-12-2012 07:01 PM|
|amarillojeepguy||usually you dont have to wait 10 mintues....most cars are like a min or so...at least thats been my experience....better to know than to think though.|
|11-12-2012 06:56 PM|
|SilverSport||I have had my battery disconnected several times and didn't lose radio presets. Had to reset time is all.|
|11-12-2012 06:38 PM|
Day 2 after the ECU reset and still little to no ping compared to before the reset. However my average fuel mileage readings have dropped more than 1 mpg from previously driving the same commute so the engine is running richer or the hoped for sensor re-calibration is affecting the MPG calculation.
I'd be interested in other people's experience with an ECU reset on their ping issues. I think the battery has to be disconnected for at least 10 minutes (I did 20 minutes to be on the safe side).
Note that you will lose you radio presets. Also don't do this if you are just about to have emissions inspection performed because it will reset the OBD readout and say "Not Ready" for some period of days, or restarts after the reset. I'm sure there is info somewhere on the forum as to how many restarts or time elapsed must pass before OBD shows ready for an emissions report.
|11-12-2012 07:14 AM|
|kjeeper10||Techron and shell gas keeps my ping to a minimum|
|11-12-2012 07:10 AM|
I tried mid grade during the summer and it didn't make much difference. The Jeep drives so much nicer when it's not pinging that I'm willing to pay the difference, especially when gas is sort of cheap anyway.
What I'd really like so see is some kind of reflash. A head failure would actually be my best outcome because it would result in a real long term fix.
|11-11-2012 06:55 PM|
|11-11-2012 05:22 PM|
I had a Ford Powerstroke diesel years back and it was in and out of the shop a few time for warranty engine work. That was an interesting vehicle to work on... they would take the body off the frame to work on the motor (quite a sight). It had a couple common failure modes, blown EGR cooler and cracked Y-Pipe and it experienced them both in the first 80k miles of ownership. The second happened slightly after it was out of warranty (past 5 year mark) and Ford still fixed it because it was a common problem. It also came with a crimped main bearing seal from the factory and was dripping oil in my driveway from day one. But when it was running man could it tow a camper and belch black soot
|11-11-2012 03:47 PM|
I have a very similar pinging under part throttle in my 2012. It's worse in warm weather. No ticking noise at all, just pinging driving up steep hills at part throttle.
I put in a tankful of 91 octane and the pinging totally disappears. I can drive one higher gear up the same hills. The OP should try a tank as an experiment. I've been following threads on most of the Wrangler forums to try to find out whether there might be a reflash but don't think so. It might be a precursor to the full blown head failure, especisally since the Chrysler guy said "fuel quality" had something to do with the head problem but I don't really know.
|11-10-2012 08:10 PM|
|patrickp||i have the same and the little rattle seems to be pinging. my dealer did not want to do anything about it. at least try it .|
|11-10-2012 06:38 PM|
|11-10-2012 06:22 PM|
|11-10-2012 05:55 PM|
Engine Ping / Detonation better after reset ?
My 2012 has always ticked like a wind-up chimpanzee with those little cymbals but I haven't experienced any loss of power and the only time it's thrown a code was something transmission related that occurred around 3k.
But starting around 6500 miles the engine began pinging / detonating more and more to the point where nearly every part throttle acceleration now sounds like the little chimps in the motor with the cymbals have added some tap shoes and are learning to clog.
Even when all that pinging is going on I don't seem to have a power problem and if I put my foot to the floor to get it to downshift it mostly goes away. It's not loud enough to hear when the windows are down or the music is up but as the temps have cooled and the windows are up most days, if I drive without the music it makes me nuts.
I have a little over 10k now and I got to thinking that maybe it's a sensor that has gone out of calibration. So I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to hopefully reset the computer and then drove it about 45 miles today on three separate around town trips. It pinged a little but as I drove (and hopefully the computer re-learned) it seemed to be pinging far less than normal.
I have my fingers crossed that it was simply a sensor out of calibration and that as the computer goes through its re-learn cycle it will sense the knock and richen up the mixture a bit.
Probably just wishful thinking... I need to turn the radio up.