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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-21-2012 04:24 PM
Kssting I keep an eye on the RPM's and the temperature and back off anytime they start to climb. We moved out to Utah a few months ago and traded the 2011 for the 12 after we got here and realized we were going to be towing a camper all over the state.
11-21-2012 04:18 PM
frieed I think maybe I'm just more sensitive to the RPM's than I need to be.
That temperature climbing thing is a genuine concern though. And it is only at highway speeds that is does it.

I probably just need to back down on the speed on the big hills
11-21-2012 04:17 PM
Kssting I always try and keep it between 65-70 and I havent had any issues on the highway. Climbing from Logan up to Bear Lake was probably the worst but we could still keep around 55. I am running 33's and a 2.5 lift.
11-21-2012 04:14 PM
frieed stock 32's.
no brakes, but never really had an issue with downhill other than longer stopping

This was Draper to Evanston to Yellowstone to the Bighorns in Wy and back.

Do you try to maintain 70 on the highway?
11-21-2012 04:12 PM
Kssting
Quote:
Originally Posted by frieed

Kssting, I wonder where you are towing.

I tow lifetime tent trailer (900# empty) with maybe another 900# of assorted stuff and people. It tows it, but I'd say a far cry from great. This is a 2012 auto with 4.10's

Of course, this was starting @ about 4600 ft of elevation going across the continental divide numerous times, ending at about 9500 ft. If you want to maintain highway speed (65-70) get ready for lots of downshifting. When pulling a 6% grade @65 mph the temp gauge starts to climb. Not much, but if it moves at all, the thermostat is wide open and the cooling capacity is maxed out.

So, 3500lb trailer with gear and people, maybe if under 50 mi, at low elevation, on flat ground. My advice is get a full size truck to pull that.
I'd be very careful with tongue weight and I doubt that hitch was intended to allow a weight distributing hitch. At least at 3500# the trailer should have brakes.

-Frieed
We have an Evolution trailer and I have pulled it several times with our 2012 JKUR and have had no problems pulling it around the Utah mountains. I do use an Equalizer hitch and the trailer does have electric brakes. The Jeep does great with the setup.

Are you running 35's or something smaller?
11-21-2012 04:06 PM
panthermark Most "real" Class 3 hitches come with a circular 7 pin connector that can be used for electric brakes or the charge an on-board battery. Heavier trailers tend to need brakes and/or accessories.




What pin is your trailer? Flat 4 or Circular 7?
11-21-2012 04:05 PM
TahoeCrawl
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kssting View Post
I have the automatic with 4:10. A 7 pin will allow you to run electric brakes and you can provide a 12v source to the trailer as well.
Awesome. Thanks!
11-21-2012 04:04 PM
frieed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kssting View Post
Our trailer is around 3000-3200 pounds and the Rubi with 4:10 pulls it great.
Kssting, I wonder where you are towing.

I tow lifetime tent trailer (900# empty) with maybe another 900# of assorted stuff and people. It tows it, but I'd say a far cry from great. This is a 2012 auto with 4.10's

Of course, this was starting @ about 4600 ft of elevation going across the continental divide numerous times, ending at about 9500 ft. If you want to maintain highway speed (65-70) get ready for lots of downshifting. When pulling a 6% grade @65 mph the temp gauge starts to climb. Not much, but if it moves at all, the thermostat is wide open and the cooling capacity is maxed out.

So, 3500lb trailer with gear and people, maybe if under 50 mi, at low elevation, on flat ground. My advice is get a full size truck to pull that.
I'd be very careful with tongue weight and I doubt that hitch was intended to allow a weight distributing hitch. At least at 3500# the trailer should have brakes.

-Frieed
11-21-2012 04:03 PM
Kssting
Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeCrawl

Good info. Did you get the manual with standard 410 or upgrade through the automatic (as stated by panthermark)?
I have the automatic with 4:10. A 7 pin will allow you to run electric brakes and you can provide a 12v source to the trailer as well.
11-21-2012 03:56 PM
TahoeCrawl
Quote:
Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
That is a good point on the 7 pin harness.

You may want to consider the Q-tec hitch without the harness and look into one of these:
Jeep Wrangler JK 7-Pin TRAILER WIRING OEM Mopar! : Amazon.com : Automotive

Now that I think about it...I should have probably done the same.
Stupid question (because of my lack of knowledge on this) - What is the benefit of the 7 pin vs 4 pin?
11-21-2012 03:51 PM
TahoeCrawl
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kssting View Post
Since you are going to want a 7 pin instead of the 4 pin you will want a different kit than the one from Quadratec. I had the dealer include the 2" hitch and 7 pin installed as part of the package and it cost me 200 installed so all I had to do was install the brake controller. Our trailer is around 3000-3200 pounds and the Rubi with 4:10 pulls it great.
Good info. Did you get the manual with standard 410 or upgrade through the automatic (as stated by panthermark)?
11-21-2012 03:48 PM
panthermark
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kssting View Post
Since you are going to want a 7 pin instead of the 4 pin you will want a different kit than the one from Quadratec. I had the dealer include the 2" hitch and 7 pin installed as part of the package and it cost me 200 installed so all I had to do was install the brake controller. Our trailer is around 3000-3200 pounds and the Rubi with 4:10 pulls it great.
That is a good point on the 7 pin harness.

You may want to consider the Q-tec hitch without the harness and look into one of these:
Jeep Wrangler JK 7-Pin TRAILER WIRING OEM Mopar! : Amazon.com : Automotive

Now that I think about it...I should have probably done the same.
11-21-2012 03:44 PM
Kssting Since you are going to want a 7 pin instead of the 4 pin you will want a different kit than the one from Quadratec. I had the dealer include the 2" hitch and 7 pin installed as part of the package and it cost me 200 installed so all I had to do was install the brake controller. Our trailer is around 3000-3200 pounds and the Rubi with 4:10 pulls it great.
11-21-2012 03:43 PM
panthermark
Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeCrawl View Post
Thanks again PM! Much appreciated. Not getting one with the max tow with open up my options.
No prob...
It is an absolute waste on the Rubi 4 door with a manual....because you get charged for Max tow ($395) without even getting the axle ratio upgrade (being that manuals already come wth 4.10's). On the JKUR autos, it isn't quite as much of a rip-off since Max Tow on the auto does bump you up to 4.10's.

But still...it is some extra cash in your pocket.

Better question is....why did Jeep raise the price of the axle ratio upgrade from $50 to $95 to $195 in a 6 month span?

But I digress....
11-21-2012 03:35 PM
TahoeCrawl Thanks again PM! Much appreciated. Not getting one with the max tow with open up my options.
11-21-2012 03:31 PM
panthermark
Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeCrawl View Post
Panthermark - thanks for the reply.

I was under the impression, by reading the Jeep specs, that 3500 lbs would be just fine. I do plan getting the 4.10 gears and in regards to the popup, electronic brakes should be an option that will help in stopping.

I was also under the impression that the class 2 with a standard 1-1/4 hitch. Does the Quadratec hitch mount to the frame?

So, a class 3 that mounts to the frame from Quadratec is the best option? How is the harness and mounting procedures? Tough?
The Qtec hitch mounts up the same way the stock hitch does. Four bolts through the crossmember. The wiring harness is plug and play. So the whole thing is really easy. I'm not sure (I have not looked) to see if there is a tow hitch that mounts to the frame rails of the Wrangler. Most of the aftermarket ones mount the same way the OEM one does.


Receiver Hitches - Quadratec
11-21-2012 03:29 PM
Renegade4x4 Hmmm. Didn't know that. Good info. Then yeah its a waste. Really easy install!
11-21-2012 03:27 PM
panthermark
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade4x4 View Post
The "maxtow" also comes with trailer sway control.
Funny story, trailer sway control was always included with the tow packages.

For the 2012's, the media material was screwed up and it said "Trailer Tow" (instead of Max Tow) came with trailer sway control. Pat confirmed that both did packages did indeed come with trailer sway control.

For 2013, all Wranglers get trailer sway control....regardless of you getting the factory tow package or not.
11-21-2012 03:27 PM
TahoeCrawl
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade4x4 View Post
The "maxtow" also comes with trailer sway control.
Isn't the sway control standard on all 2013 JKs?
11-21-2012 03:26 PM
TahoeCrawl Panthermark - thanks for the reply.

I was under the impression, by reading the Jeep specs, that 3500 lbs would be just fine. I do plan getting the 4.10 gears and in regards to the popup, electronic brakes should be an option that will help in stopping.

I was also under the impression that the class 2 with a standard 1-1/4 hitch. Does the Quadratec hitch mount to the frame?

So, a class 3 that mounts to the frame from Quadratec is the best option? How is the harness and mounting procedures? Tough?
11-21-2012 03:21 PM
Renegade4x4 The "maxtow" also comes with trailer sway control.
11-21-2012 03:17 PM
panthermark If you are getting a Rubi, don't wast you money on the factory hitch. They charge you "max tow" pricing, and all you get is a hitch and harness.

Go the Quadratec and order their hitch/harness combo for $89.97 (make sure you get free shipping as a member of WF).

As for the tow ratings, you are capped at 3500 pounds on a 4 door. The Wrangler is an odd duck because it has a 2" receiver but does not have a Class 3 rating. Consider the 2 door...or the 4 door on 3.21's. Same 2" hitch, but is capped at 2000 pounds. Sorry, but a 3500 pound trailer will put you over the limit. Do you have the HP to tow it? Yes But...I'm not sure how if you can control it/stop it. Also...the hitch is connected to a cross member...not the frame rails itself.
11-21-2012 03:07 PM
TahoeCrawl
2013 JKU Towing Hitch??

I am looking to get back into the Jeep world after owning a 2001 TJ 4.0L/auto, then had a 2011 JKU Sport. I put a 2-1/2 in. Mopar with Bilstein shocks lift on it with 35s (Goodyear MTR Kevlars) on the 2011 JK and the engine was a dog and sold it.....just a little history.

I am looking to purchase a 2013 JKU Rubi and am wondering about the 3500 max tow with the Class 2 hitch option? I have read several posts on here ranging from you can tow more easily or tow within the rating limits.

My question is this: Is it better to NOT get the "max tow package with class 2 hitch" and purchase a DIY Class 3 product off of Quadratec or just go with the factory "max tow"??

I plan on purchasing a popup camper right at 3500 lbs or a little more and want the best performance. I would think a class 3 hitch rated at 5000 would be best.

I do plan putting a lift and 33s or 35s on my new Rubi.

I am not a big time wrencher but have done upgrades on my 2001 TJ so any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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