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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-11-2014 10:32 PM
Eirerogue I had the same issue with my '14 JKU. It went away shortly after I noticed the gurgling. I had previously read about the issue on this forum and wasn't overly concerned. All good!
04-11-2014 10:15 PM
TexMedic
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhicanders View Post
I presume you're talking about the 'freedom panels' not the entire top?
Yup, just the freedom panels.
04-11-2014 09:45 PM
UtahWrangler I had the water sound in my 14JKU. It went away after a few days of driving....I didn't do anything, it resolved on its own.
04-11-2014 09:43 PM
mhicanders I presume you're talking about the 'freedom panels' not the entire top?
04-11-2014 09:35 PM
TexMedic Just to add to this discussion. If you have a hardtop check to see if they have water in them. Pull them off and move them back and forth you might hear water. As odd as it sounds to me, I had that flushing sound for months thinking it was air in the coolant system as described here. It certainly sounded like it was coming from the dash.
However, I finally got around to taking it in to the dealership and they said water had gotten in to the hardtop panels. They replaced them and now the water sound is gone.

It seems crazy that that much water could get in there. There were no holes or cracks in the tops and no obvious way for water to get in there much less become trapped. But, taking the tops off got rid of the sound and now that the new tops are on there is no flushing sound.
04-11-2014 09:27 PM
Sf_Kilo My 14' did this the other day... never thought about bothering to figure out what it was till i stumbled across this thread ... I guess I'll bleed it tomorrow...
04-11-2014 09:15 PM
JeeperJake Just a follow up after the winter and my own note 6 months back.

After running the rig 3 years with the flush, since my Shade Tree Mechanic did his trick, all winter no problem, no gurgle, plenty of heat.

In fact, by the time I hit the "nearly one mile from my driveway stop sign" the heat is beginning to be serious. Impressive heater.
04-11-2014 02:54 PM
HIENUFF
Liquid noise behind dash

I just got a 2014 JK Sport and I also have the sound of liquid flowing behind the dash. I hope it is an easy fix such as adjusting the bleeder valve. I dont want to have to take it back to dealership for a couple of days.
01-31-2014 04:09 PM
lando76 I have a 13' and it to had the waterfall sound behind the dash. I opened the radiator cap squeezed the tubing a couple times and put the cap back on. It didnt immediately solve the problem. It fixed itself after about 1500 miles. It just went away on its own. I havent checked the heat yet because here in Ca winter hasn't showed up yet. Ill crank it after work and check the vent temps.
01-31-2014 03:37 PM
The Ugly Jeep Our 2012 just came out of dealer. Two days. Replaced heater core, t-stat and radiator due to cold air on drivers side/hot on passenger side
Seems to have fixed it
For Now
01-29-2014 05:53 PM
socalwk Mine has the water sound…JKUR 2014 with 400 miles Doesn't really concern me. I'll just burp the system.

Seems like it comes and goes for some…or just goes away all together.
01-29-2014 05:29 PM
RoadGlide ...technical service bulletin...
01-29-2014 05:22 PM
Eldonkey
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagicMtnDan View Post
My 2014 had the "in-dash woosh" sound. I burped it. It went away for a short while and came back. I took it to the dealer and they fixed it. There's got to be a TSB or some other notification in their computer from the factory. Oh yeah, there was also an issue with the cooling fans not being programmed at the factory to come on! They fixed that too. Check yours out if you've got a 2014
Great info.. What's a TSB?
01-28-2014 12:29 AM
MagicMtnDan My 2014 had the "in-dash woosh" sound. I burped it. It went away for a short while and came back.

I took it to the dealer and they fixed it. There's got to be a TSB or some other notification in their computer from the factory.

Oh yeah, there was also an issue with the cooling fans not being programmed at the factory to come on! They fixed that too.

Check yours out if you've got a 2014
01-27-2014 11:14 PM
mikebot My toilet went away after a couple thousand, came back, and then disappeared for about 6-7k miles more. I'm at 10.5k now and it hasn't been back. I bought a gallon of Mopar's magical purple coolant just to top off when needed. Have only used maybe a cup and a half of it over the past 6 months.

For the record, I never burped. I'm 98% certain the radiator cap wasn't sealing correctly. I cleaned it out and wiped it clean and it has been good since.
01-27-2014 08:36 PM
Sitting duk I too had this water noise (new '14 JK), and read about some people burping it with success on this forum. and I also read some people who didn't do anything, and after a while went away.
I didn't do anything. I have now about 2,000 miles and the noise is gone. Not sure exactly when it went away. but i don't hear that sloshing/flushing sound anymore. so maybe wait and see?

After reading about the horrors of dealerships mixing wrong coolants here (as it seems its really easy to confuse), which created a real problem, I just didnt want to deal with the dealer, nor buy anything I didnt need. and now, problem free. good luck
01-27-2014 08:15 PM
Eldonkey Mine seems to have the waterfall sound too.. 2014 with 300 miles on it..

Will the dealer have the vehicle burped under warranty?
01-26-2014 08:47 PM
mxsix Hey everyone, sorry to bump an older thread. I would like to thank all of the contributors for their valuable information concerning this subject.

I recently picked up a new 2014 (with 9 miles on it) and started noticing the trickling water noise around 230 miles. Did some research online and it brought me here. I ignored it until this weekend when I finally started to learn and get my hands dirty under the hood. It has 725 miles on it now and the suggestions here were spot on.

I rolled it up the driveway so the front was a good 3-4' above the back. Let it cool completely. Opened the radiator cap, squeezed the tube on the drivers side until the air came out/level was below visible. Filled it up using the reservoir coolant (which was about 1" overfilled) extra. Squeezed the tube again until the bubbles came/coolant level went below. Filled and repeat until I squeezed and no more bubbles surfaced. No tools or extra coolant required. The noise went down significantly. It's still present so I'll probably repeat this next weekend which should likely be the last time.

Thanks again.
11-26-2013 03:16 AM
Lusus_Naturae Since it's getting to be winter again I'm sure this will come back up for those who haven't burped their Jeeps yet.

I had photos now posted here to save space - JK Bleeder Location Photos by Lusus_Naturae | Photobucket
11-25-2013 08:51 PM
tab22092 Guys another great way to make sure your cooling system is operating as it should is to give the jeep a good hammer down thrashing. Opens the thermostat up and gets a lot of coolant flowing, cleans out any junk laying around in the pipes. My heat was pure fire after a good 20-30 mins of very spirited driving. Also air will take the path of least resistance example being out if the cap and into the overflow where it "burps". A 17lb rad cap also helps. My rad hose was collapsing with the stock 18lb. Letting me know the cooling system was compromised. Try it out you wont regret it!
11-25-2013 08:21 PM
Mdbennett All,

I have a 2007 JKU, recently bought it with 60k miles. The first time I used the heater this year, I heard this sound and my heater would blow hot air while driving but would not at idle. I finally got serious about finding out what may be causing the problem. The first place I came was this forum to see if it was a common problem. Thanks to you guys I checked the coolant level, added fluid and burped the system..........everything is fixed. Hot air immediately, consistent air in each vent and no water flowing sound behind dash!

That's what a forum is for! There's no telling how many hundreds of $ this same me, not to mention the frustrations. Thanks a lot!!!!
11-15-2013 10:05 AM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matador View Post
Dave, I used an angle ratchet like this with a short stubby phillips head bit. It worked perfectly.

I have a ratchet similar to that, but I don't have bits as short as yours. I have the standard size bits and they are 1/4" or so too tall. I may have to try the dime trick.
11-15-2013 10:04 AM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
Must be a City VS Country thing lol. You know you can pop the air intake tube right off with no problem just pull the clamps and then just use a dime. I have big hands and I can actually use a dime without removing the air tube but removing it would give you all kinds of room. Not sure I buy the loose bleeder tho because coolant would be present.
I agree, I don't think mine is a loose bleeder, but I figured it would be an easy way to fix it. Just loosen until the psssssssst noise is done and a drop of coolant leaks out, that way I know its completely air-less.
11-15-2013 09:41 AM
Matador
Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
I can "see" it but I cant get any tool in there to turn it. Were you able to get anything in there? I tried to wiggle everything under the sun, but no go, nothing fit.
Dave, I used an angle ratchet like this with a short stubby phillips head bit. It worked perfectly.

11-15-2013 05:49 AM
jadmt
Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
I can "see" it but I cant get any tool in there to turn it. Were you able to get anything in there? I tried to wiggle everything under the sun, but no go, nothing fit.
Must be a City VS Country thing lol. You know you can pop the air intake tube right off with no problem just pull the clamps and then just use a dime. I have big hands and I can actually use a dime without removing the air tube but removing it would give you all kinds of room. Not sure I buy the loose bleeder tho because coolant would be present.
11-14-2013 10:05 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
I have no problem getting to the bleed screw and on both vehicles they were tight. go underneath the breather from the right hand side (facing vehicle) I agree also if it were leaking there would be residue around the screw and it would spew coolant all the time. good luck hope you get it fixed as it is not normal that is for sure.
I can "see" it but I cant get any tool in there to turn it. Were you able to get anything in there? I tried to wiggle everything under the sun, but no go, nothing fit.
11-14-2013 07:59 PM
jadmt I have no problem getting to the bleed screw and on both vehicles they were tight. go underneath the breather from the right hand side (facing vehicle) I agree also if it were leaking there would be residue around the screw and it would spew coolant all the time. good luck hope you get it fixed as it is not normal that is for sure.
11-14-2013 06:34 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
Not sure why it is not working for you. It worked on both of mine. both will burn your hand if you hold it too long in front of the heater vent and all 4 dash vents blow same temps. There is a hole in the neck of the filler and the level needs to be just above the hole while squeezing the hose. Both times mine has been parked on level ground even tho some say it needs to be parked with the front up a bit. Both times I was able to burp it tell the bubbles stopped coming up out of the neck.

It would have driven me crazy too if I continued to get the waterfall noise and even worse the no heat. It gets cold in Montana.
My coolant is right below the overflow hole in the radiator. I did it when the motor was ice cold, but if I compress the hose fully (squeeze it hard) the coolant gets pushed above the rim. I have rhino ramps so I have no problems with lifting the front end up a bit. Will try again tomorrow. How did you know that your bleeder is fully tightened? The only reason why I think mine is tight is that there is no coolant residue around it, and if it was open, I would see coolant seeping out, but I can't get any of my tools to it to really check if it's tight or not.
11-14-2013 05:33 PM
jadmt
Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
Tried this today. Opened the cap (saw coolant nearly to the top of the rad) and started to squeeze the hose. Couldn't squeeze too hard because the fluid would have spilled out. Squeezed like 100 times. Put cap back, started, same crap, running water. Tried matador's solution, but even my baby ratchet like his with a bit (my bit is 2x as long as he has in his photos) was about 1/2" too tall to get to the bleeder. I refuse to bring it to a dealer because I simply don't trust them. They are going to tell me I need a heater core, a new motor, new tires, and a kick in the ass. Maybe I'll just need to meet up with Lou so he can help me out with this. Didn't bother me too much before, but I know its a problem and I don't like that Im not getting 100% of the heat that I know I should. Im also certain the cooling system isn't going to function 100%.
Not sure why it is not working for you. It worked on both of mine. both will burn your hand if you hold it too long in front of the heater vent and all 4 dash vents blow same temps. There is a hole in the neck of the filler and the level needs to be just above the hole while squeezing the hose. Both times mine has been parked on level ground even tho some say it needs to be parked with the front up a bit. Both times I was able to burp it tell the bubbles stopped coming up out of the neck.

It would have driven me crazy too if I continued to get the waterfall noise and even worse the no heat. It gets cold in Montana.
11-14-2013 04:39 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
go back to post 26.
Tried this today. Opened the cap (saw coolant nearly to the top of the rad) and started to squeeze the hose. Couldn't squeeze too hard because the fluid would have spilled out. Squeezed like 100 times. Put cap back, started, same crap, running water. Tried matador's solution, but even my baby ratchet like his with a bit (my bit is 2x as long as he has in his photos) was about 1/2" too tall to get to the bleeder. I refuse to bring it to a dealer because I simply don't trust them. They are going to tell me I need a heater core, a new motor, new tires, and a kick in the ass. Maybe I'll just need to meet up with Lou so he can help me out with this. Didn't bother me too much before, but I know its a problem and I don't like that Im not getting 100% of the heat that I know I should. Im also certain the cooling system isn't going to function 100%.
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