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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-03-2012 06:01 PM
JRoweMDN I was thinking jeep math. You know the old fix/upgrade spend more money than you meant to and sneak it by the wife.
12-03-2012 02:44 PM
Diverdown87
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRoweMDN View Post
I just had the hood repainted on a 2002 Tahoe that had some issues. I pulled the hood myself and took it to a local body shop and had it stripped and painted to match and clear coated. The total was $325 with tax. Just to give a rough idea of cost. Now you could also go with a louvered hood if it is not all over the hood.
Course even if you did a louver you would have to have IT painted or powder coated...
12-03-2012 02:31 PM
Steve305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lookin2buy View Post
........ ask if it would be cheaper if you removed the hood and have it to them off the vehicle. Maybe even have it scuffed or wetsanded for them first....
Take the hood off .....Yes.

Scuff it up for them ... NO. Most reputable body shops will do it again anyway. You're wasting time and they would prefer to see it in the original condition. Not to mention that you might not get it blocked down flat and smooth. Well-meant intentions, but not a good idea.
12-03-2012 12:18 PM
Lookin2buy FWIW, spray cans are approx 25% paint and the rest is solvents and propellants....so at $20/can you'll need probably two cans for the hood....and then you will need to clear it on top of that....

It will be VERY easy to actually make the paint look worse than the crazing you have now....

Get a quote from a bodyshop...get a quote from Maaco....you might get a decent deal and if you could get it sprayed professionally for $300 or less that is well worth it in my opinion. Places like Maaco like to just be able to walk around the piece with a spray gun so ask if it would be cheaper if you removed the hood and have it to them off the vehicle. Maybe even have it scuffed or wetsanded for them first....
12-02-2012 10:23 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by krisbman View Post
whats the louvering going to help, your still gonna have effd up paint and it will be worse if you have it louvered its just going to break the exsisting paint when the louvers are punched.
They make an aluminum louvered section that pretty much covers the whole center section of the hood (the raised middle). If my shitty clear coat/oxidation was limited to that middle section the large louvered piece would have covered it all...however my bad paint extends past the center section, so the louvered piece wouldnt cover everything.
12-02-2012 12:16 PM
krisbman whats the louvering going to help, your still gonna have effd up paint and it will be worse if you have it louvered its just going to break the exsisting paint when the louvers are punched.
12-01-2012 11:15 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRoweMDN View Post
I just had the hood repainted on a 2002 Tahoe that had some issues. I pulled the hood myself and took it to a local body shop and had it stripped and painted to match and clear coated. The total was $325 with tax. Just to give a rough idea of cost. Now you could also go with a louvered hood if it is not all over the hood.
I thought about the louvered hood...but its on a good portion of the hood that the louvers wouldnt cover. Good idea though
12-01-2012 10:16 PM
Green03TJ My 03 started off like that. Now its flaking off completely, all the way to the bare metal. So if you're going to do it I would probably strip it completely and start from scratch. I've gotten quotes from $500 to $600 to fix it.
12-01-2012 09:48 PM
JRoweMDN I just had the hood repainted on a 2002 Tahoe that had some issues. I pulled the hood myself and took it to a local body shop and had it stripped and painted to match and clear coated. The total was $325 with tax. Just to give a rough idea of cost. Now you could also go with a louvered hood if it is not all over the hood.
12-01-2012 06:45 PM
Cons_Table I appreciate the advice guys. It helps put things in perspective a little. I was probably a little on the conservative side as far as the condition of the paint though too. So let me rephrase...it STARTED as crows feet, but has since turned into oxidation and fading. The clear coat is going or gone on a majority of the top of the hood and the paint that has been exposed is fading significantly. So to me I was thinking, how could it look any worse. I would post a pic up but for some reason my phone isnt letting me. I will be talking to the shops in town though for a quote. I actually talked to a buddy of mine today who has a friend who is a painter...so I am also waiting to hear back on that.
12-01-2012 01:52 PM
krisbman yup, I charge extra for fixing other peoples mess ups.
12-01-2012 01:49 PM
Steve305
Quote:
Originally Posted by krisbman View Post
dont use a spray can,it will look like shit! if your not gonna fix it right dont do anything. just leave the factory paint on.
THAT ^^^^^^^^^^^ was the best advice in this entire thread.

As Jerry elated, there is definitely an art to painting. And you aren't going to get what most folks would consider an "acceptable" outcome with a rattle can. And if you don't know what you're doing, you won't get it with a gun and compressor either. It's easy to dry spray it or get it so heavy it runs off in the floor. I painted for many years and I can assure you that if these minor imperfections are bothering you, you will be very disappointed in any "repair" that you do on your own. This is NOT a personal insult to you, but rather a statement saying that this is definitely not as easy as you may think. Take it to a professional and pay them to paint it. Or leave it alone and live with it. And FWIW, we used to charge "extra" to fix something that someone had already tried to repair and made the job even more time consuming for us.
12-01-2012 01:36 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cons_Table View Post
I can do some custom ones on your jeep if you would like
Somehow I think it may be a good idea if I sleep outside next to my tires during the next M&G.
12-01-2012 01:26 PM
krisbman dont use a spray can,it will look like shit! if your not gonna fix it right dont do anything. just leave the factory paint on. you cant just sand crows feet smooth either. youll have to essentially strip the whole hood, clean the bare steel, apply an epoxy primer, base the hood then clear it. then after it still looks like shit and the color doesnt match take it to a shop and have them fix it. i estimate 3-4 hours to strip hood, and probably a paint time of 2 hours since your only doing the outer surface. so we have 6 hours total on the high side at say $50 an hour plus materials for around $125 or so. you do the math.
11-30-2012 07:24 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I especially dig those bitchin' whitewalls, nice!
I can do some custom ones on your jeep if you would like
11-30-2012 05:52 PM
Jerry Bransford I especially dig those bitchin' whitewalls, nice!
11-30-2012 05:45 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by jameslee97206 View Post
I've had pretty good luck over the years with rattle can on cars. I cannot comment on how durable it is over time as I always sold the vehicle quickly. The main thing I find is to lay it as evenly as possible then after it dries a day or so, wet sand, cut and buff it with a variable speed buffer. I use auto magic bc1 and bc2 for compound and polish. Always comes out looking great. Good luck!!
Thanks for the input!
11-30-2012 05:45 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
My bro-in-law is an artist when it comes to painting cars, and he let me know just how much goes into using a spray gun to paint a car one day. He's not the type to try to impress people, he was just yakking and mentioning how temperature, humidity, brand of paint, air pressure, paint additives to reduce orange peel etc., air volume, nozzle setting, how you hold your tongue in your cheek, stroke, height above the surface, etc. all affect how well an automotive paint job comes out.

That was enough for me to stick with aerosol paint cans for automotive painting. Oh, I do have 2-3 paint guns and a big belt driven air compressor at home but I limit their uses to my wooden fences & dog houses.
That is all good to know, Jerry. I have sent a couple emails out to get the opinions both from the paint dealer as well as a few guys that have used it. Ill let you all know what I hear from them as well. I appreciate the help.

Also...as far as spray paint is concerned...not to sound arrogant, but Ive done a little work with a rattle can lol. Here is the car I painted with probably a dozen rattle cans for our local demolition derby.

11-30-2012 05:40 PM
jameslee97206 I've had pretty good luck over the years with rattle can on cars. I cannot comment on how durable it is over time as I always sold the vehicle quickly. The main thing I find is to lay it as evenly as possible then after it dries a day or so, wet sand, cut and buff it with a variable speed buffer. I use auto magic bc1 and bc2 for compound and polish. Always comes out looking great. Good luck!!
11-30-2012 05:36 PM
Jerry Bransford My bro-in-law is an artist when it comes to painting cars, and he let me know just how much goes into using a spray gun to paint a car one day. He's not the type to try to impress people, he was just yakking and mentioning how temperature, humidity, brand & type of paint, air pressure, paint additives to reduce orange peel etc., air volume, nozzle setting, how you hold your tongue in your cheek, stroke, height above the surface, etc. all affect how well an automotive paint job comes out.

That was enough for me to stick with aerosol paint cans for automotive painting. Oh, I do have 2-3 paint guns and a big belt driven air compressor at home but I limit their uses to my wooden fences & dog houses.
11-30-2012 05:29 PM
harleydragon yw
11-30-2012 05:02 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
you can buy a new gravity feed gun cheap..even a very cheap new gun will usually do a much better job than an old gun that all the seals are dried up
Ill have to look at it...I dont think hes ever used it, so the seals may be bad, or they may not. I appreciate the help
11-30-2012 04:48 PM
harleydragon you can buy a new gravity feed gun cheap..even a very cheap new gun will usually do a much better job than an old gun that all the seals are dried up
11-30-2012 04:42 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
one of the things I don't like about aerosol is that it will be so very thin,even if you put several coats.However,if you don't want to pay a shop to do it or buy the paint equipment to do it yourself then this might be your best bet
My decision is still up in the air. Now that I think of it...I THINK my grandpa may have given me a spray gun that I put in my tool box. If that is the case, I may go with a can of paint for the same price as two aerosol cans.

I just sent an email to the company to get a little more info on their paints.

I am also gonna message the guy who started the thread I found that particular website in...its been a while so I am sure he'll have some input on what he used and how well its been holding up.
11-30-2012 04:37 PM
harleydragon one of the things I don't like about aerosol is that it will be so very thin,even if you put several coats.However,if you don't want to pay a shop to do it or buy the paint equipment to do it yourself then this might be your best bet
11-30-2012 04:26 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxkTJ View Post
Most likely the rattle can stuff won't be a base coat clear coat but rather an enamel of some kind.
You can buy an HVLP gun for less than $20 at Harbor Freight. It wouldn't take a very large compressor to prime and paint a hood. That way you could use a paint that utilizes a hardener. It will cost a little more but the rattle can won't hold up in the elements as well.
This is what the "automotivetouchup.com" site says about their aerosols. It sounds like just about every one of the paints is offered as a base coat/clear coat.

Quote:
12 ounce spray paint can filled with color basecoat has been custom matched to your exact factory color code. Each can is made on a per order basis. Almost all modern and many older cars are available in a basecoat / clearcoat formula so clearcoat is required for a proper shine and paint match. We mix the highest paint quality available for your order. In the event that your paint color is only available in a singlestage (no clearcoat) formula we will remove and refund clearcoat if you order it.
11-30-2012 04:12 PM
harleydragon
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxkTJ View Post
Most likely the rattle can stuff won't be a base coat clear coat but rather an enamel of some kind.
You can buy an HVLP gun for less than $20 at Harbor Freight. It wouldn't take a very large compressor to prime and paint a hood. That way you could use a paint that utilizes a hardener. It will cost a little more but the rattle can won't hold up in the elements as well.
agreed..urethane base coat and clear coat for a good paint job.........as far as wiping it down before spraying..buy a tack rag for that
11-30-2012 03:39 PM
TxkTJ Most likely the rattle can stuff won't be a base coat clear coat but rather an enamel of some kind.
You can buy an HVLP gun for less than $20 at Harbor Freight. It wouldn't take a very large compressor to prime and paint a hood. That way you could use a paint that utilizes a hardener. It will cost a little more but the rattle can won't hold up in the elements as well.
11-30-2012 12:39 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
leave your old paint,it is great protection..do the rest..it is not really necessary to prime the entire hood unless you just want to
This is kind of what I figured. Just sand it smooth (not to the metal), clean it off well so there are no loose particles/etc, prime, paint, clear. Seemed pretty straight foward

I figure priming may be a good idea so that everything is one solid color. That way it makes it easier to see if it's getting an even coat, rather than having dark/light spots where my old paint may be showing through.
11-30-2012 12:38 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
By the way, we don't want your TJ getting too pretty... we have the M&G coming up & we plan on your TJ getting so catty-wampus that there is no location safe from scratches & dings... including dead-center on your hood.
Itd be my luck I go through all of this trouble, and I WOULD dump her on the hood
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