|05-11-2013 01:20 PM|
|05-11-2013 04:53 AM|
4"lift and soa
|12-21-2012 01:44 AM|
|12-21-2012 01:17 AM|
My SOA on 35's and Deaver leafs that are almost flat, sittin on 35s. The 4" + SOA will make it look like a scared cat unless you're going REALLY big on tires and then you should be asking about 1 ton axles. Stay at the height you're at and work on some high clearance fenders w 35s or just go SOA on stock-type leafs.
I also have an 8.8 rear (44 front). I found the thread in this link very helpful.
Ford 8.8 Bible
8.8 FACTS, OPINIONS & HOW-TO'S (F.A.Q.) - JeepsUnlimited.com Forums
|12-20-2012 03:20 PM|
|12-19-2012 10:26 PM|
|OverkillYJ||If you are sua the extra thickness of the 8.8 will make your rear about .5" lower. If you are so a it will make is .5" higher. If you do sua lift and put 1" shackle lift in fro t you need to put 1.5 in rear to keep the jeep level. Also a while back I read an offroading article on bommerang shackles that said they were designed for the rear anyways.|
|12-19-2012 10:08 PM|
|12-19-2012 09:55 PM|
|OverkillYJ||I was just thinking though. If you do SUA you would adjust the height in the rear instead of the front with an SOA. I think boomerang shackles were designed for the rear originally anyway. Also, if you are SUA with an SYE then make the pinion angle 1 degree below being pointed directly at the yoke. If no SYE then try to make the rear pinion angle 1 degree lower than the same angle of the slipyoke. Those are the rules of the driveshaft angles when you are trying to avoid vibration according to a Driveline shop I have been using that does all this stuff everyday. As far as the backspacing from the 88 beng narrower, I was planning on adjusting it but I cant even tell the difference so I havent wasted my time. I have heard of people putting one side of the axle out as far as the front and then putting a sinlge spacer on the other side. That also helps a bit with the driveline angle since you can move the diff 1.5" towards center. I almost set mine up like this but decided not to.|
|12-19-2012 08:27 PM|
|OverkillYJ||I did .5" lift boomerang shackles in the front to offset the thicker 8.8 in the rear. I also welded the shock mount at the same height as the bottom of the tube and used a teraflex upper shock mount to get nice flex out of it.|
|12-19-2012 07:36 PM|
Did a quick search, and i'm actually very happy that quadratec has spring perchs for $20 lol. UNI's, so they may require some modification. SO, i'll hunt down an 8.8 with a LSD. Do I use the shock mounts on the 8.8? or weld on new ones?
And ...boomerang shackles? I see alot of talk about boomerang shackles, and it seems they do more good than harm and i can get 1" of lift safely. Seeing as I want more lift, would throwing some Boomerang shackles on with the 8.8 and 4' lift be a feasable option? meaning, will that require me to do an SYE?
|12-19-2012 07:20 PM|
U can get perches from any jeep oriented shop. Quadratec for instance. You will need to grind the welds remove the perches clean the remaining metal away. Etc. When u remove the 88 from the explorer make sure u get the u bolt brackets your d 35 ones wont work. I also recommend taking one of the u bolts so u have one to reference if u dont order them in advance.
Secondly set ur perches under the axle bolt everything up but allow enough slop to move the rear from side to side to get it centered. Once ur happy happy happy (duck dynasty reference) put a couple of quality tacks on the perches remove and finish weld. I highly rec having a very experienced person weld ur gear. Oh and before u tack the rear up make sure u set ur pinion angle to accommodate the amount of lift u have. I wish I lived closer I miss projects like this. Good luck. If u have any questions id be glad to assist.
|12-19-2012 06:39 PM|
Ok, after some thinking and looking back at the feasable options on hand, i will leave the lift alone. I think she needs some fixin and some trail accessories before a bigger lift. And since i can't stand the spool in the back, i'll look into picking up an 8.8 and a different locker, maybe a selectable locker. Something that allows DD, and trail use. A spool just isn't cutting it.
But things brings up another round of questions. NOT doing a SOA, and putting in an 8.8...where would i get the spring perches, and shock mounts? How would i go about putting one in with the springs under the axle? Could I just flip the Axle over? and then bolt the shocks in?
|12-19-2012 05:56 PM|
Josh I agree with many of the opinions stated here on this thread. 4" springs are way too high. I did my soa twice first the wrong way then the right. I worked for quadratec for about 4 years so I had full access to the correct information and parts.
Your axle choice is good and the 8.8 is a decent swap keep in mind its roughly 5/8's of an inch or so narrower than the 35. Youll have to accommodate a different offset and or backspacing on ur rims to clear properly. Also keep in mind to do a soa correctly u have to run a sye and a cv rear shaft. When I did my soa the proper way I swapped in a waggy 44 rear and a high pinion 44 front w the waggy outer. I ran 37" iroks on 17" helo max 6's. My advice to u is DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!! theres a lot of work involved in an soa dont cut corners it will come back to haunt u. If u want the entire list part numbers included id be glad to assist.
|12-19-2012 01:09 PM|
Alright. You must get an Explorer rear, anything else is a big waste of time and money. Lift springs will work better than stock springs because they are stiffer, but they are not ideal. Both of them are made for SUA and dont handle SOA very well, you will also wrap the rear springs. Best thing to do is either get leaf springs designed for SOA, or add a full length leaf to the stock springs you have. That will give you 1.5"-2" of lift on the stock springs, but the biggest difference is that you will have a 5 pack leaf up from and a 6 pack leaf in the rear. That will handle way more abuse that even those lifted springs you have. They will also ride much better. When you convert it to SOA the way the springs push down on the axle they flex way better.
As for the SYE, you can get away without it, but the SYE is the most proven way to not run into driveline problems. If you dont do SYE and have your driveshaft cut to a different length and balanced, and then run into problems and need an SYE anyway you will wast e a lot of money. Get an SYE with a 1350 yoke and put a 1350 on the 8.8. You can drop you TC if you try the driveshaft route, but why lift it just to drop the center? You can also lift your engine an inch to reduce the angle a bit.
Track bars. LMAO Lose them and cut the mount off your front axle while you are up there welding the new perches on. Also know that oone of the perches up front needs to be customer because the tube is very narrow on one side.
Good luck. SOA is a lot of work.
|12-19-2012 10:29 AM|
|12-19-2012 02:45 AM|
|Ianbeaulieu||For a dd I would stick with either 4" or soa stock springs, and nothing will reach haha I did the soa with 1" shackles|
|12-19-2012 02:26 AM|
|12-19-2012 02:18 AM|
|12-19-2012 01:35 AM|
Well 9" isn't that much considering that this thing was a ground scraper stock lol. I'm used to driving trucks with 37s. So I kinda want to run atleast 35's.
I'm just a little confused...never owned a Jeep and there is TONS of ways to lift this thing.
With a 4" I should fit 33's. So to clear 35's n have room for flex, I figured a SOA. But honestly I'm not really sure. I could just leave the lift alone, and work on appearence, fix some rust, winch, comp cut, chromoly axles, and selectable lockers.
My main use for this is DD, so looking good is a must. Secondly it would be used for light trail riding, if any. And mud boggs, lots of mud boggs.
And here is a pic, for those sharing there oppinions. Thanks very much.
|12-18-2012 09:01 PM|
|Dirttracker18||4" lift springs plus SOA will net you over 9" of lift. That's really high. Are you sure you need/want that much lift?!?!|
|12-18-2012 08:41 PM|
|12-18-2012 08:27 PM|
Good info here"
most use the stock springs or a small lift spring... your 4" springs will be very tall.
|12-18-2012 07:09 PM|
|joshpowell16||And 1 more thing lol. What year of the 8.8 should I be looking for? And is it only the 8.8 outta the explorer? Or will the 8.8 out of a ranger or mustang fit it? Rear disc isn't a must. I prefer drum anyways. Rear disc never work with all this snow n salt.|
|12-18-2012 07:04 PM|
|joshpowell16||Almost forgot, SYE and a different driveshafts are required for this right? or will modifying the drive angle be enough in the rear to get away with only the SYE?|
|12-18-2012 06:59 PM|
I have a SOA planned for my future. I've already chosen to stick with the stock front axle, and buy chromoly axle shafts. and seeing as the SOA involves welding on new spring perches, i might as well do the 8.8 swap at the same time. So i'll buy the 8.8 and upgrade it first, then i'll do the SOA.
So my simple question is. Is it necessary to replace the leaf springs with the SOA lift springs?
Or can I just keep the 4" lift springs?
Same question for the factory leaf springs, just incase anyone else is wondering.
I'm already running a 4" susp lift, and it looks like it was done not to long ago, cause the u bolts, are still shiny.
And the track bars, that go along the axle that pivot when you articulate,...are those needed? With a 4" lift and then a SOA will those even bolt up anymore? Should I just pull them off? and buy Quick disconnects for the sway bars? And from what I can see, you don't even keep them if you are doing the 8.8 swap.
I'd like to start on something with it, so even if its just removing unnecessary parts it will make me happy. I'm eager to actually start modding it for myself.