|12-23-2012 01:42 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
Actually, grounding the bl/wt wire is what is supposed to close (click) the relay to heat the glass. That is what the switch is supposed to do & also light the indicator. So it acts like that wire is being grounded constantly even with the switch off. With all that the indicator should still light when the switch is on even if the defrost stays on when the switch is off. All I have to go by is the OEM diagram so obviously something in the add-on overlay is different causing this.
I wasn’t totally clear what exactly he did to fix it or what was actually INCORRECT in the instructions. It sounded like it involved the connection at the back of the cluster (16 way). Try unplugging it, turning the switch off & the key off. Then reconnect it & try from there.
If that doesn't work, try unplugging the cluster connector & with it off try turning the key & see if the relay clicks. It should not as long as the cluster is disconnected.
|12-23-2012 10:39 AM|
|E.Cook||Alright so I tested it this morning and I realize my problem is just about the same as the other guys problem. I didn't think to check before but as soon as I turn the key to on, the relay clicks, so I guess my defroster is always on and I have no way of shutting it off except to turn the car off, and the indicator on the switch is never on. I tried grounding the blue/white and the switch still did nothing.|
|12-22-2012 11:51 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||The overlay bl/wt wire should ground when you switch the switch on but not necessary for testing.|
|12-22-2012 11:49 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||By existing I meant OEM wire. Also are you checking this with the key on?|
|12-22-2012 11:48 PM|
|E.Cook||Yeah those were the two open spots. Ill try to ground the blue/white and see if anything happens. I guess I'll try every combination that I can but theoretically should I try to ground the new and old blue/white together and that's what should work?|
|12-22-2012 11:43 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
It looks right, those were the 2 open spaces on the cluster, right?
The only thing other than waiting for the other guy to respond would be to ground the existing bl/wt wire & see if the relay clicks when grounding & heating element gets power at the back (gets hot). With the switch on the indicator might also light.
|12-22-2012 11:31 PM|
|E.Cook||Yeah I have the blue/white in slot 7 I believe and the other blue/green is in slot 1. I'm pretty sure that's right, but I'm open to any suggestions you have.|
|12-22-2012 11:29 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
I see what you did & that should have worked.
Do you have the rest of the harness installed including the 2 to the back of the cluster?
|12-22-2012 11:24 PM|
In that picture the left side blue/white is the one from the new harness. So I again tried what the directions said to do and I took it out of where it was in that picture and I cut the blue/white on the right (the one that was there before I touched any wiring) and attached the two. I got nothing from the defroster and then I tried to put those two attached back with the end that was still in the connector and that didn't help either.
Not really sure what to do at this point
|12-22-2012 11:18 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||It looks like there is a bl/wt wire coming out both sides of that connector. I would say you should splice into either side but leave them connected. If you cut it you have to connect the new to the correct side of the old since only one will go to the relay. (Not sure which side that would be.)|
|12-22-2012 09:51 PM|
He hasn't gotten back to me yet, but both sides are black which threw me off a little. Here is a little better picture.
So I took the blue/white from the new harness and cut the existing from the connector. I put those together and it didn't seem to work, but they weren't put back into the connector. Are you saying I need to have both of those together and back in the connector?
Sorry I'm not too knowledgable with electrical work...
|12-22-2012 09:44 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
If that is the correct connector. That looks like the black side. Is there any wire on the gray side where the bl/wt wire is? It looks like it comes in from the back side in the photo & says from the gray connector. What has to happen with that the overlay wire from the kit is connect to the (bl/wt) wire that goes to the relay. That overlay wire is the one from the cluster connector. The other cluster connection goes to the switch. The way everything works is the switch grounds the wire to the cluster, during the first 10 min. that ground comes out the cluster (bl/wt wire) & goes to the relay to ground the relay coil & close the relay. The relay then powers the heating element in the back glass.
If you have the correct wire in your photo you should be able to turn the key on & ground it & close the relay. If that works then yes all you have to do is connect the overlay bl/wt wire to it any way necessary & have the defrost work from the switch & cluster timer. The indicator should also work.
But in your photo it looks like you have it where the other guy had it when it didn't work. Has he responded to help?
|12-22-2012 08:45 PM|
So I didn't hear it feel anything in the relay...but I asked the other guy where he ended up putting his blue/white wire in the end when it all worked. This is where I have it at the moment
And on the other side of it there's another blue/white wire coming out in the corresponding slot. My directions say:
34) Find grey 10-way connector located under the I/P and near the top of the 100-way connector.
35) Cut blue/white wire free off the 10-way connector. Splice this wire to the blue/white wire from the overlay harness. Solder and insulate the splice.
Does that mean I just cut the one that was originally in there, and just connect it to the one from the overlay harness and neither of them go back in the connector? Is that what you were talking about closing the circuit?
Again thanks a bunch for the help.
|12-22-2012 07:26 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
It might be hard to hear the relay unless you are right there when someone hits the switch. You should be able to feel it if you put your hand on it. It is the relay under the hood that you installed as part of the install kit.
As I said, that blue/white wire is the most confusing & the instructions for the ’01 & ’02 are possibly wrong. I don’t have those instructions so I’m going by what has been reported to me. You need to find the 10 way (10 pins) connector that is above the big block of connectors called the 100 way connector. On the 10 way you need one side is black & the other gray. The blue/white wire goes into the gray side in the #2 slot. That slot may or not be open but the black side will have a blue/white wire. You need to get the kit blue/white wire connected there as I understand it. That wire goes from the relay you installed to the cluster (which is one of the 2 you put into the connector behind the cluster). The other one from the cluster goes to the switch. The cluster has a timer which turns off the defroster after 10 minutes if you forget & leave it on. If left on too long it will burn out the heating grid.
Below is a post that may help. Even PM the poster, I’m sure he will help.
Notice in post #6 he had no indicator light in his switch either (when the blue/white wire was in the wrong place). Also note that nothing will work until the 2 wires to the cluster are installed (correctly).
|12-22-2012 05:35 PM|
Would I be able to actually hear the relay click when I hit the switch? And that would be in the fuse box under the hood?
The blue/white wire gave me some issues, and the instructions weren't all that helpful. It makes it sound like you cut off a wire from under the cluster in the 100 way connector and just splice the blue/white wire to it. I did that and I lost all my gauges and everything else in the cluster so I just kept both wires attached and plugged the original back to the connector. I got the gauges back but still no light on the defrost switch. Any idea where that blue/white is really supposed to go?
Thanks for your help
|12-22-2012 03:55 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
The add-on kit might be different than the factory equipped HTs but on the OEM ones fuse 17 in the block behind the glove box feeds the indicator light. If it is out the defroster will still work. On the add-on it is probably different because I don’t recall having to tap into that fuse (if it is even in there on non-HT models). Best way is to check the connector on the back of the switch. It should be dark blue/red & have power when the switch is on.
Also be sure you are getting the relay to click on when you turn the switch on. Most of the problems with these kits are getting the blue/white wire properly connected & sometimes getting the 2 to the cluster in the right places.
|12-22-2012 03:07 PM|
|E.Cook||Hey so I just did all the wiring for the hard top in my 2001 and I'm having the same problem. The light on the switch won't turn on but I think the defroster is working...did you guys figure anything out to fix that?|
|11-11-2011 01:22 AM|
|ejxjohnson||yah i have the same problem|
|10-20-2011 09:35 PM|
|Johnboy11||ya my problem is exactly like yours my light doesnt come on tho on the switch|
|10-20-2011 08:57 PM|
|robbiecc||have a similar prob--wipers and washer work, and my defrost light does come on but i don't think it's working(worked last time the top was on-just put it back on last week end). haven't had a chance to look it over yet but any suggestions would be appreciated.|
|10-20-2011 08:42 PM|
rear defroster fuse location
I have a 2000 wrangler sahara and my rear defroster is not working or at least the light wont go on on the switch. where is the fuse at for the rear defroster. I found the relay under the hood it was ok. My wiper works and the washer fluid does also and the dome light but not the defroster