|01-02-2013 10:12 AM|
|Beastmaster||I found a pretty good thread on this subject in the YJ section: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/mons...on-197199.html|
|01-02-2013 08:02 AM|
|ryanre||Gotcha. Thanks for the help. I'll be working on the sanding over the next few days.|
|01-01-2013 09:34 PM|
If you do go to bare metal to want to put on one solid coat of self-etching primer (you can get it in spray paint) on those spots only. The etcher part put in to bond with the metal isn't great for existing paint, so you don't want excessive overspray.
|01-01-2013 04:36 PM|
|ryanre||Did you guys use any type of primer before rolling on the bedliner?|
|08-25-2012 01:01 PM|
|08-25-2012 11:19 AM|
|08-24-2012 09:52 PM|
|Dylanjwhall||Torn the inside apart and Got all the sound deadner besides the drivers side out today, got cut short due to a s&r case but I should have it all sanded and ready to go tomorrow hopefully|
|08-23-2012 12:05 AM|
If your rolling it would recommend Monstaliner then. I think you have to order it online. Actually I would call the guy up because he usually does deals for JeepFourm members at least (free shipping + Chassis Saver). It gets ton's of great reviews. gr8fulKID did a post with pictures--> http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/wha...ob-147590.html
I would stay away from Herculiner. The texture often looks not all that consistant. It fades, and is super abrasive.
|08-22-2012 11:14 PM|
|Dylanjwhall||Not to sure yet, something roll on though I know that much.|
|08-22-2012 09:59 PM|
I tried to remove the carpet on the lid with a knife, but that wasn't happening. What I did with mine was to go over the carpeted lid with a heat gun. It makes the carpet shrivel up and ends up looking pretty much bed lined after your done. If you end up going that direction I would be careful around the hinge area that seems to be held on by the carpet. Also take your time and try not to leave any lines. I had some mild lines in mine, and I found out that the Raptor liner wasn't thick enough to actually mask them (it's about 1/16" thick, about like 2 credit cards stacked). Shrinking the carpet did make the lid a bit looser where it slides in, but not too bad. It still stays put.
What kind of bed liner are you going to use?
|08-22-2012 08:04 PM|
|08-22-2012 08:00 PM|
|Dylanjwhall||Also I'm going to lose the 'secret' compartment in the back if I do this correct?|
|08-22-2012 06:01 PM|
|Rooster76||I think I used 120 grit and that seemed about right. I would stay away from the sponges that have sandpaper on them. They wear out super fast. I have heard that red scotch bright pads are good to use. I was going to do that but I couldn't find them. They are an alternative to steel wool that might also work.|
|08-22-2012 01:08 PM|
|Dylanjwhall||Thanks for all the tips everyone hopefully it'll turn out good and of course ill post pictures along the way, one last question what grit sand papers did you use as well?|
|08-22-2012 12:39 PM|
I have a couple write-ups that might help
Carpet Removal 2012 2DR
U-Pol Raptor Bed Liner in tub - Shots - Notes - Reference Threads
It sounds like you have a good plan in spreading the work out. It takes a bunch of time to sand. A solid day really. You need to take the shiny clear coat off anything you want to stick. That's as far as you need to go. The primer they used at the factory is as good as your going to get. I took the floor gunk out and it left some bare metal. Those areas you need to hit with some self-etching primer (it comes in a rattle can). The self etching primer only needs one solid coat and it's best to just spray it on bare metal as much as possible. The etcher part isn't great on top of paint.
Don't forget that it takes some time to dry. I would let it sit for a day before putting everything back in, and then try to put everything in nice without scraping. That's what I did. Based off the U-Pol instruction pamplet it takes a week before being totally dry and they are saying 2-3 days for light duty. LINK-> http://www.u-pol.com/documents/datas...RLB-TDS-US.pdf
I found a video of a dry ice method to remove the goop. It looks fast if it doesn't dent up your floorboards. I think I would still use the heat gun method again. It takes about an hour to remove each patch .
removing tar based sound deadening from floorboards - YouTube
|08-22-2012 10:05 AM|
Yeah, a heat gun will work, but the heavier duty the better. A small torch might actually be the best route. But I used the basic Harbor Freight heat gun and it did the job, but it's still a lot of work.
You'll also need a good putty knife with a somewhat narrow blade. The ridges on the floor are too close together for a full size putty knife to get down to the actual bottom of the floor.
It'll also be helpful to have an impact wrench. Preferably something small (like an air one) so you can get under the rear seat to get the bolts out.
You'll also want an electric sander. Preferably a big one and a small one, though a decent small one will do if you're willing to take the time. I just got the clearcoat off and scuffed the paint surface--I didn't bother trying to get bare metal. Chances are your heat gun won't completely remove the putty stuff on the floor, and you'll need to work the sander pretty hard on that stuff as well.
It's all pretty self explanatory really. Just take your time.
|08-22-2012 09:53 AM|
|HAFICON||Don't take it to bare metal. Just ruff it up good clean it really well, and good luck.. no idea on sound deadner stuff in floor board.|
|08-22-2012 09:38 AM|
So ill be stuck on duty at work this weekend and I'm going to tear everything out of the jeep and prep to bed line it the following weekend after that, and tips, tricks, or suggestions? Should I go to bare metal or is roughing up the surface really well going to cut it? Also a heat gun should peal up the sound deadner stuff right?