|01-11-2013 12:56 PM|
|Bill_FL||A 3 I can do. Off to order the seal.|
|01-11-2013 11:23 AM|
When I did mine I didn't even bother removing the rear housing. Just remove the u-joint on the axle side, pull the driveline out (make sure you mark the orientation so you get it back in the same way to maintain balance). Use a pair of pliers and a flat blade screw driver to pull the old seal, just be careful to not hurt the aluminum. Tap the new seal in with a dead blow hammer and a small section of pvc pipe the same diameter as the metal flange on the seal. Grease the inner seal lip, put the driveline back in, hook the u-joint back up, refill it with ATF, and your done.
I would say a level 3 job is a pretty good estimate.
|01-11-2013 10:06 AM|
The tail cone is easy to remove, which will make the seal easy to work with. Disconncect the drive shaft at the differential, pull the shaft out of the slipe yoke and have some rags handy... Some fluid will come out. Then you can remove the three bolts that hold the tail cone on.
When reassembling, use an oil resistant black RTV for the tail cone. Wire brush the mating surfaces clean, and degrease before applying the RTV. Use a little locktite on the bolts.
Scale of 1 to 10... Its prolly a 2.5 or 3
|01-11-2013 09:20 AM|
Transfer case leak
It appears my transfer case leak is coming at the seal from the extension to the slip yoke - the drive shaft area. Thought it might be the speedo cable area, but I 99% sure its from the seal on the extension.
On a scale of 1-10, 1 being changing the spark plugs and 10 being assmebling a manual transmission blindfolded, how hard it is to replace those seals without messing up the new ones? When chainging it, shold you change the whole extension or just the seals? Not planning on an SYE any time soon as I wont be lifting this one anytime soon.