|02-17-2009 03:13 PM|
|Jma20a||get a 10" sub with some power, put it in a small box, find an amp that will fit on the back of the sub box and you are all set. a 10" sub takes up little room.|
|02-17-2009 03:01 PM|
So I instaled my HU and speakers 4x6 in the front and 6.25 in the rear pods.. it sounds good lots of treble but there is no Bass.. I still have the stock bass under the arm rest but it barely works now..
any thoughts? I really dont want to add space for a sub or an amp.
|02-17-2009 01:57 PM|
|02-17-2009 01:13 PM|
|02-13-2009 12:11 PM|
|02-12-2009 11:57 PM|
|bpowa||i just pocked some polk 2 way from circuit city.. 40 bucks but they are 4x6. oe fit.. I figured 50% off what the heck.. they should still sound better than stock oe speakers.|
|02-12-2009 11:38 PM|
Then, you can build a carpeted beauty board over the top of them.
Your cargo area will look flush, your amps will be hidden AND protected from passengers, cargo, and all the elements.
(providing you use some weather stripping underneath)
Plus there will be more than enough room underneath the beauty board for the amps to breathe.
|02-12-2009 10:51 PM|
|nu arty boy||
Jma20a: Do you know of anyone that makes a bracket for such a thing or is this going to be something that I need to fab up myself?
BB22: And you don't think they will steal a factory radio? I do understand what you are saying, and I feel the same way, but most if not all current aftermarket head units have theft deterrent features like removable face plates and such. If you are not looking for a competition-level radio then you can go with aftermarket for around 100-150 bucks and still get a quality head unit. But you still need to be careful where you park your Jeep when in public.
|02-12-2009 10:27 PM|
|02-12-2009 10:06 PM|
|Jma20a||if you have the speakers installed you should get a new headunit. the speakers will sound ten times better with a new headunit.|
|02-12-2009 08:36 PM|
I replaced my four speakers with all polk. They are sound great, I recommend them. I am installing my 10 inch sub and amp soon, I'll let you know.
On a side note, when I'll be installing the sub and amp, I have a stock head unit. Can anyone point me in the right direction for the adapter I'll be needing? I know I'll need the adapter that has RCA ports or something like that. Thanks!
|02-12-2009 08:34 PM|
|Jma20a||i still say the under side of the rear seat. it will keep it off the ground and still have air flow.|
|02-12-2009 07:40 PM|
|nu arty boy||Yea, I kinda knew all of that already. I've been into mobile audio for about 10+ years now. I have Infinity Kappa 4x6 in the dash and some Rockford Fosgate 5.25" in the sound bar (the latter speakers from the previous owner) and I have a small Alpine 4-channel amp (~50w RMS) that I want to hook up. The Rockfords aren't very efficient speakers, something like 86 db. But again I am looking for a place to put it that will not be exposed to the elements but still have enough airflow so it will not overheat.|
|02-12-2009 05:31 PM|
The "max wattage" is the highest amount of watts the that speaker can handle without blowing for 1 second. when looking ot a speakers power handling in terms of wattage is the rms wattage. this is the amount of power a speaker can handle on a continuous power level. and as jerry said the sensitivity plays a large roll in finding the right speaker for the job.
one thing to know about amp's is you get what you pay for. you could have a nice high end sub with a low cost high wattage amp and it isn't going to sound any where near the way that the high end sub should.
|02-12-2009 04:14 PM|
If you're not adding an external amplifier, here's a very KEY specification to keep in mind when shopping for new speakers... Sensitivity!
Ignore all the big wattage numbers on the speaker box, those are completely misleading to the average consumer. A speaker rated 50 watts will, all other things being equal, sound no louder or better than one rated at, say, 25 watts. I see these crazy ads for speakers rated at huge wattage ratings where they imply they'll be louder and sound better than other speakers without the high RMS wattage rating. That specification is there to fool the average consumer into thinking a high wattage speaker will play louder and sound better. The speaker's wattage rating is only how much power from the radio or amplifier the speaker can handle without distorting or blowing... that's all.
The more useful spec is its SENSITIVITY. Let's take two hypothetical speakers...
1) Speaker 'A'. Rated to 125 RMS watts. 86 dB Sensitivity rating.
2) Speaker 'B'. Rated to 50 RMS watts. 89 dB Sensitivity rating.
Which will sound better/louder with the typical car radio with perhaps 16 to 20 RMS watts of output per channel? Speaker B! With its 3 dB higher sensitivity rating, Speaker B will play at a noticably higher volume at the power the radio can provide and it will require fewer watts to drive it loud enough to hear it with lower distortion than Speaker A would.
If you have a huge external audio amplifier, the speaker's sensitivity is less important but for a stock radio or even a higher end head unit with a built-in amplifier, you should always choose the speaker with the higher sensitivity rating... pay no attention to the huge red lettering screaming 100 watts or whatever. 3 dB is a big difference. In fact, a speaker with a 3dB higher Sensitivity rating will produce the same volume at a given wattage than a different speaker will with a 3dB lower rating that is driven with twice the watts.
For the typical am/fm/radio with a built in amplifier that has 16-22 RMS watts output, you want at least 91 dB or better speaker sensitivity. Polk is one brand that tends to have higher Sensitivity ratings.
Just something to keep in mind.
|02-12-2009 03:59 PM|
|nu arty boy|
|02-12-2009 03:46 PM|
|Jma20a||attach it under the rear seat.|
|02-12-2009 01:55 PM|
|nu arty boy||
Where is everyone mounting their amps? I'm looking for a place to put it where it will be less exposed to rain & mud and I'm having a real tough time.
I was thinking of picking up a Tuffy center console (they say they have larger storage space than the OE console) and placing it there...but then the lack of airflow is a problem.
|02-12-2009 12:48 PM|
|Jma20a||i mounted an ipod dock on the inside or the armrest for my ipod, my headunit allows me to use the buttons on the faceplate just like an ipod would|
|02-11-2009 11:14 PM|
I just installed my HU Alpine cdr 9884 yesterday. 159 shipped from crutchfield. you can get 20 bucks off if I refer you. .. With some cheap phoenix gold 6.5 in my sound bar.. I do need to change the front though.. But it sounds a lot louder and clearer. It had a ipod jack.
I still need to pick up my ipod to play it.. (fell off my bike compartment; but luckly another rider behind me picked it up)
Glad I spent 30 bucks for a case..
But I cant wait to hear how it sounds with the ipod.
|02-11-2009 09:59 PM|
|Jma20a||kappa 3-way up front and kappa perfect components in the rear, audiobahn sub and amp, pioneer headunit. the speakers sound great even at 70mph with the top down and doors off.|
|02-11-2009 09:22 PM|
|G-Pur||Pioneer head unit with infinity kappa 5.25's all around. Sounds great, but my dash rattles like hell.|
|02-11-2009 09:19 PM|
|Giancarlo||i did alpine removable faceplate headunit ... alpine type s in sound bar and in front speakers... in rear i have polk audio 10 inch sub... wooww.. my system hits hard and it sounds clean even when im doing 75 mph no top no doors and with my knobby e x terrain tires screaming|
|02-11-2009 08:00 PM|
I just did all of this to mine.
Browsing through it might answer a few of your questions.
The sound quality and loudness has surpassed my expectations, although I have not had the Top off yet. With the Hard Top on, and the set up that I have, I am honestly ready to turn it down after I hit half volume capacity. With the top off, I think half to 3/4 would be fine for me. I actually have more power than what I am using though. The way that it is set up, is so I can max it out if I want to, and it wont damage any of my speakers. Yet, I see no need to.
To get alot of clarity and BIG BASS with the Top off at that speed, and not ruining your speakers, I would imagine you would have to have a pretty co$tly system. I think it just depends on how much you are willing to spend.
There is a place online called Cartronixplus. They have amazing deals. They are selling stuff at half of MSRP. That's where I picked up my Rockford T-500. At first I was skeptical, because the warranty they give you is from them, not Rockford, but I've had Zero problems with it. It came sealed and brand new, just as it should, with the factory birth certificate. The one thing that I noticed was that the manufacture date was Aug 07, and I purchased it DEC 08. I called Rockford to check up on everything. They said that the amp was sold to the company I bought it from, and there have been Zero services on it, to them proving that it was new. That was enough to satisfy me. The Rockford T-500 that I have is actually pumping out 800watts rather than the 500watts because Rockford under rates their products. That worked out perfect for my 400watt Rockford Sub Box.
I paid $259 for that T-500 from Cartronixplus (which is actually 800watts), and I paid $200 for an Alpine 300watt 4 channel from Cruchtfield. See the difference? Cartronixplus also sells speakers and head units. If you're willing to take the chance, you could build one hell of a big system for half the cost. I took the safe route, and believe me, I paid for it. Although I did save $200 on 2 sets of speakers because I purchased when Crutchfiled was having their end of the year bow out sale.
Hope this helps.
|02-11-2009 07:21 PM|
|jdhallissey||I just replaced the rear sound bar speakers with ALpine type-R's I think. They are a huge imporvement over stock. I drove it doorless and topless yesturday and it almost felt as if I was not driving a topless doorless jeep! I am going to replace the front speakers with the same aplines and also add tweeters. I am not going to add anything like a sub because I would hate to toss my jeep into a mud hole and well get stuck and cook my floor with water then my sub and amp. To answer your question on a sub in the rear yes it will put more then enough sound for you to here it.|
|02-11-2009 07:06 PM|
Best Sound Bar and front dash speakers?
Just doing speaker shopping, wondering what will sound the best under the loudest road conditions: - 65+, no doors, no top..? Also, any suggestions on subs,: is affordable and loud achievable? Do rear sub set ups deliver enough sound to the front of vehicle under those conditions? Thanks 4 any info.