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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-16-2013 09:30 PM
Justin04Lj Very impressive.
02-16-2013 08:34 PM
B4Real Pretty Sweet!
02-16-2013 08:06 PM
GSPup Seriously looking good !
02-16-2013 07:56 PM
Full Spool Sweet!!!

Make some skids for those arm brackets on the frame.


If you ever wanna sell that rig, I get first bid.
02-16-2013 03:39 PM
Tshields Okay, I know I haven't posted progress in a while but I was busy working on little stuff and reassembling and today it went for it's first test drive. Everything is working pretty well just a few adjustments needed. Still need to modify and re-install the belly skid plate and the diff skid plate and paint the new hardtop. Here are some pictures that I just took today:










It's nice to be driving the Jeep again, it only took 2 months!!
01-21-2013 07:18 PM
chrisfp88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshields
Decided to use JK turn signals up front and finally got around to drilling the holes, got them wired and all installed.

I really like how they look and the same plugs for the stock TJ turn signals plugs right into the JK lights.
That looks sick!
01-21-2013 07:01 PM
Tshields Decided to use JK turn signals up front and finally got around to drilling the holes, got them wired and all installed.





I really like how they look and the same plugs for the stock TJ turn signals plugs right into the JK lights.
01-19-2013 01:44 PM
jasongind That thing looks sweet, until the first good trail anyhow lol.
01-19-2013 12:29 PM
jagerhelix
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshields View Post
My new Poison Spyder Bombshell diff cover for the front axle.
Nice, I've got the same ones sitting in my garage, still trying to decide what color to paint the "spiders"
Great work
01-19-2013 10:51 AM
Tshields My new Poison Spyder Bombshell diff cover for the front axle.

01-19-2013 10:48 AM
Tshields Here is a picture of what you are looking for, one thing with this setup is it keeps the caster angle correct through the entire range of motion.

01-19-2013 06:03 AM
Tshields It's not the system that I would have used if I was adding the 44 to the Jeep, but it seems to work pretty well and hasn't caused any problems in the 9 years or so that it's been on. It definitely does not limit the Jeep at all.
01-18-2013 07:02 PM
GSPup
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Spool

Wrapping Is just the axle wanting to roll with the wheels. It is predominant with springs and space blocks, but the term is still used with all forms of suspension.

I'm just sayin that if the arms are spaced 6 inches instead of 12 inches, that changes the load on the brackets exponentially.
I see what your getting at.
01-18-2013 07:00 PM
Full Spool
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSPup View Post
The axle can't really push forward of its normal position with 4 control arms holding it in place? I might be confused on your choice of words though.
Wrapping Is just the axle wanting to roll with the wheels. It is predominant with springs and space blocks, but the term is still used with all forms of suspension.

I'm just sayin that if the arms are spaced 6 inches instead of 12 inches, that makes everything have to work harder to keep the axle in place.
01-18-2013 06:44 PM
GSPup
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Spool

I measured my stock locations at verticle between upper arm and lower arm. 9" at the axle and 7" at the frame. When the springs compress and stretch, it keeps the pinion angle aligned with the driveshaft to the transfer case.

Yours look almost parallel along their length. Seems like it would alter pinion angle with a change in axle position. I can understand getting the lower arm up behind the axle to increase ground clearance. But it seems to increase the chance of axle wrap, or camming over, and even torque in the brackets.

But I love that rear end set up. I need to upgrade from stick welding. Takes to damn long.
As far as the front driveshaft and pinion angle, the shaft is generally long enough to account for maximum articulation. You will have trouble clearing your steering and diffs before your front driveshaft binds.

Parallel control arms are what you want. Smooth on the highway, tucked from the rocks, and more than enough droop. A long parallel upper does no harm. Only absorbs energy better than shorter arms. I'm not sure what you mean by axle wrap? That's a term commonly used with leaf springs. The axle can't really push forward of its normal position with 4 control arms holding it in place? I might be confused on your choice of words though.

I think his setup is beautiful.
01-18-2013 06:20 PM
Full Spool
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshields View Post
I'll get some pictures for you this weekend.
I measured my stock locations at verticle between upper arm and lower arm. 9" at the axle and 7" at the frame. When the springs compress and stretch, it keeps the pinion angle aligned with the driveshaft to the transfer case.

Yours look almost parallel along their length. Seems like it would alter pinion angle with a change in axle position. I can understand getting the lower arm up behind the axle to increase ground clearance. But it seems to increase the chance of axle wrap, or camming over, and even torque in the brackets.

But I love that rear end set up. I need to upgrade from stick welding. Takes to damn long.
01-18-2013 06:06 PM
Tshields I'll get some pictures for you this weekend. They were done by the original owner when the Dana 44 was put in around 9 years ago. This Jeep has wheeled a lot since it was done with no problems at all.
01-18-2013 05:49 PM
Full Spool
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshields View Post
You looking for pictures where they mount on the frame or on the axle?
Wanted to see the axle side, maybe a close up. Looks interesting....yet unstable.

01-18-2013 11:58 AM
Tshields You looking for pictures where they mount on the frame or on the axle? I only added width to the frame bracket, the one on the axle will be much harder so still running heim joints there.
01-17-2013 08:09 PM
Full Spool How about some pictures of the front diff control arm bracket relocation? Seems like.... with them so close together they would be more susceptible to wanting to tear off of the diff.
01-17-2013 07:50 PM
BrianTG Dodger Blue!!


Looking awesome man. Wish I had the abilities to do that type of work. Keep up with the pictures.
01-17-2013 01:52 PM
Tshields Tom,

Your always welcome to come on by and help or just hang out. I'm running parts to the painter Saturday morning, should be back around 2 or 3 to start cranking on the Jeep again. Should be working on the Jeep all day Sunday and Monday. Let me know if you want to come by.

Terry
01-17-2013 11:08 AM
CoachT Nice work Terry! I can't wait to see it in person.

You gonna be around this weekend?

Need any help now that most of the hard work is done?
01-17-2013 10:36 AM
jasongind Nice progress man.
01-17-2013 10:12 AM
Tshields Fenders and rear armor have all been modified and are ready for the painter. Hung the new doors tonight and got them all aligned.


Also got my parts back from the powder coater today so now it's time to start assembly for good, I think I'm finally on the down hill side now!!!
01-14-2013 08:52 PM
Kyvman Exceptionally nice work. Wish I had even 1/4 of the skills necessary.
01-13-2013 10:43 PM
Tshields There is no cutting involved in the rear 1/4, just need to make sure you have good paint between them. The ones I'm installing are aluminum so they won't rust.
01-13-2013 06:43 PM
Full Spool I've always wondered about those 1/4s. I guess it's best to put them on before you crunch a stock 1/4 panel. How do you keep the original skin from rotting out underneath an aftermarket. Or is it cut off, and there is no skin underneath. My ol'lady would kill me if I removed a perfectly good set of 1/4s. She won't even let me remove the smitty nurfs.
01-13-2013 06:30 PM
Oldguy No kidding, I won't even think about working on my Jeep in the winter unless it's at least forty degrees outside
01-13-2013 11:06 AM
Full Spool Now I see what your secret is....You have a heated garage.

Try those mods in my garage and you will give up before you get the jackstands set.
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