|04-20-2013 06:53 AM|
Ill give some advice regarding putting the doors back on. It's a bit harder IMO than removing them. Those doors are a bit heavy and it can be difficult to line up the pins.
I put one hand under the door and one on top and brace the doors against my upper legs for stability. I sort of use my body to guide the door rather than my arms.
First time I had to put my doors back on I couldn't get the pins lined up and had to set the door down for a sec.
|04-20-2013 04:41 AM|
|kEat||When you're getting ready to take them off and you disconnect the harness, tuck it in that little pocket on the side of your door for safe keeping. I let it dangle and let my door slam shut while I went to grab something and crushed the plug between my door and door sills.|
|04-20-2013 04:34 AM|
Your going to find the seat belts will flap a bunch with the doors off and it will be annoying. Luckily there is a simple fix with a seatbelt pad. Get one that is rather loose like the ones made by "custom accessories" sold at wal-mart Walmart Mobile . You put them on the belt at the belt feed. If done right you won't even notice they are there, and it will totally stop all flapping.
^^^^^^. Times 100 on this...the flapping will drive you nuts. Worth $3.00!
|04-20-2013 12:16 AM|
|04-19-2013 10:34 PM|
|01-29-2013 08:32 PM|
|01-29-2013 06:59 PM|
|01-29-2013 06:34 PM|
|kbwwolf||Something nobody's mentioned (unless I missed it): When you take the doors off for the first time, put a little bit of white lithium grease on the hinge pins, especially if you live in a cold weather state that uses salt on the roads in winter. It'll make removal the following Spring much easier...|
|01-29-2013 10:39 AM|
|AgBullet||Built this using some plans I "borrowed" off another forum. Works equally well for hanging bikes or doors. Total parts cost was about $40. It's perfect for keeping the doors off the floor and out of the way.|
|01-29-2013 08:30 AM|
|dama417||I have a 10 foot piece of 3/4 inch pipe mounted to the ceiling of the garage with a "cheap" Harbor Freight chain hoist on in, I put a strap thru the window opening and gently lift the door up. After reading some of the stories of people dropping the doors I'm not taking a chance.|
|01-29-2013 08:21 AM|
I skipped the video, this may have been in it:
If the door has been on a while you may need to use a jack and a block of wood to apply pressure while you tap the door up. It helped me when I took mine off.
|01-29-2013 07:59 AM|
|rfortune||Once I removed the torx screws from the hinges I have never put them back in. I see no reason to. Makes removal the next time that much easier and quicker and removes the risk of slipping and scratching something with the wrench or stripping the head of the bolt.|
|01-28-2013 09:11 PM|
|campman||Thanks everyone for the input. Noticed that all 4 of my other jeeps had painted torx screws. The 2012 is not painted. Guess Jeep got smart.|
|01-27-2013 07:36 PM|
|01-27-2013 07:33 PM|
|LMH||And watch the door once you take off the straps and don't let it swing back. Otherwise it will swing back and your side mirror will go right into your cowl - if you don't know what that part is- you will soon learn if you don't watch it. Save removing the straps for the VERY LAST step right when you are ready to take them off and don't let go of the door. It happens fast. I was warned and did it anyway. It pi55es me off every time I look at it.|
|01-27-2013 07:21 PM|
First open the windows. Then the red tab on the wire harness has to be down to get it off. It's a bit hard to get out, and you going to need to wiggle it some. When you put the wire back in when you put your doors back on give it an extra twist in its natural coil direction, once. That will help from it sticking out like a diving board where it will rub your leg.
REMOVING THE STRAP
First you need to remove the T50 bolts off the bottom of the hinges. Make sure you know where your going to put the door before unlatching the door strap. After it is unlatched for no reason take you hand off the door. Otherwise you will get an idiot dimple on the cowl from the mirror hitting it. I got a dent on mine and there was no wind and it was on level ground with the slightest nudge.
REMOVING THE DOOR
The 2011+ models don't have the handle you can grab. The do have a spot to hold the T50 bolts in the cubby though. I grab with one hand on the top of the open window to hold most of the weight. The other hand I hold the mirror just to guide it.
STOPPING THE SEATBELT FLAP
Your going to find the seat belts will flap a bunch with the doors off and it will be annoying. Luckily there is a simple fix with a seatbelt pad. Get one that is rather loose like the ones made by "custom accessories" sold at wal-mart http://mobile.walmart.com/m/phoenix;...0A65D70CA37451 . You put them on the belt at the belt feed. If done right you won't even notice they are there, and it will totally stop all flapping.
|01-27-2013 07:13 PM|
|01-27-2013 06:44 PM|
|Kssting||Window down and one hand on the exterior door handle and one on the window frame seems to be the easiest for me.|
|01-27-2013 06:43 PM|
|4DoorCrush||X2 on the window gives you something to lift on|
|01-27-2013 06:42 PM|
Don't drop them on your toes. My girlfriend's daughter did that. She and the emergency room physician do not recommend it.
X2 on rolling down the window, at least part way. I haven't taken the full doors off my JK yet, and my TJ had half doors. But when I removed the full doors from my Scrambler, having the window down a little made it easy to use the top of the door frame as a handle to lift and carry the door.
|01-27-2013 06:38 PM|
|the Kolector||Undo the hinge nut, disconnect the wiring and lift off. I have found it esier to do with the window rolled down.|
|01-27-2013 06:35 PM|
|4DoorCrush||A 50 torx bit and lift off|
|01-27-2013 06:12 PM|
Coming up this summer I would finally like to go doorless. After 5 jeeps its time to do it. How do I do it correctly?