|09-01-2013 08:06 PM|
|Owen_TJ||Looks good...what size rims did you get???|
|09-01-2013 07:48 PM|
|Royal_Assbadger||It's been a while, but I got the Zone 3" SL on, Bushwacker fender flares, MT rims and BFG 33" All Terrains all installed. I really dig how it looks. Still have to put the 1.25" BL lift on it.|
|02-19-2013 03:22 PM|
|Royal_Assbadger||Thanks Desert Outlaw, that was really informative. Sounds like the adjustable track bar will be pretty important with my 3" SL. Hopefully the combination of adj track bar and steering stabilizer will cure my DW.|
|02-19-2013 03:18 PM|
My Zone 3" SL says that it supplies a "minimal TCase drop kit". Would I also need to install a MML?
So far, this is what my plan is:
3" Zone Offroad SL
w/ 4 Nitro Shocks
w/ Zone Steering Stabilizer
1.25" Zone Offroad BL w/ radiator drop brackets
35" BFG Radial TA KO (315/75/16 on my original Rubicon Moab 16x8 rims)
1.25" wheel Spacers (Do I need these?)
Kevin's Offroad Adjustable Track Bar to address my DW.
1" MML. (DO I need this?)
GUNNER: We have the same vehicle and I really like they way your rig looks and would like to replicate the look as economically as possible. Do I need more, or less than what is listed above?
|02-18-2013 01:26 AM|
Very recommended reading
Death Wobble and How To Cure it
|02-17-2013 12:06 AM|
|02-16-2013 10:30 PM|
|Gunner||I have a 04 rubi auto. When I had the 33's and 4.10's it was OK. I bought the 35's with a total B/S of 3.75. On the 4.10s it was still ok. I finally put in 4.88's and wish I had gone to 5.13's. It's a bit sluggish on hills. But off road I really didn't see a big difference.|
|02-16-2013 08:25 PM|
15x8" rim is your best bet if you plan on airing the tires down for the trail. But Interco makes the Birddog wheel that can be aired down and is a 15x10" wheel.
I also am chasing the gremlins that contribute to my front end shimmy. I bought several items today to address this which I will illustrate on my 4" lift - 33" to 35" thread:
Good luck with your buildup!
|02-16-2013 08:03 PM|
|chevymad||I've got a bit more wander, but I've yet to have the caster checked. All i've done is reset the toe-in. I've bought a set of caster cam pins for my stock arms and have added a little, but not alot of difference yet. Really need to get it to the alignment shop and see where it is actually at. I think this is just from the lift though and not the tires. With the suspension lift and the original 31" tires it actually wandered more then with the 33s.|
|02-16-2013 11:28 AM|
|Royal_Assbadger||Any notable road characteristics with the 33" or 35" tires? Does it take more effort to keep it between the lines or does it drive pretty true?|
|02-14-2013 08:09 PM|
|chevymad||I wish I had more then the 4.10s with just my 33s. You'll get around the but the power disappears. I also lost 5mpg just going from 31s to 33s.|
|02-14-2013 06:27 PM|
|Royal_Assbadger||And what do I need to take into consideration with backspacing?|
|02-14-2013 06:26 PM|
Recieved the lift kits today. A total of 4.25". Time to buy tires. I am now kicking around 35" tires. Seems it's almost as economical to buy 35x15 tires PLUS rims as it is to buy 33" tires for my existing 16" Moab Rubicon rims. Kinda like the idea of giving it a different look.
Am I ok with the Rubicon's stock 4.11 gearing for 35's? I looked at a chart and it seemed to say they would be good for highway economy, but not optimum for the daily driver range. Another question, I assume it would be better to go with a 15x10 rim for the 35x12.5x15 tires, than the 15x8 rim, correct?
Can anyone talk me into just going with 33" tires? Again, 99% pavement, 1% trail.
Thanks all. I'm learning slowly while wearing out the keyboard...
|02-11-2013 09:02 PM|
I have a 04 rubi. Stock when I got it. I put on a 4" rough country lift which came with a transfer case drop bracket and shifter bracket. I'm running pro comp xtreme m/t that are 35's and rub when I turn completely left or right. I put an adjustable front trackbar from pro comp for around $120 from 4wp and a pro comp steering stabilizer. I've taken mine up the hardest trail at uwharrie and had no trouble doin it a few times. Just as a reference, here's what I got into my build price wise.
4" Rough Country N2.0 kit-$520
Adjustable trackbar from ProComp-$120
Hope this helps and enjoy your jeep!
|02-11-2013 08:47 PM|
A rubicon does not require a SYE, however it may need a longer double cardon style driveshaft if you have vibrations. The motor mount lift may help with this too.
If you use a motor mount lift with the body lift, then you won't need to move your fan shroud or shifter brackets. If you're a stick shift, you may need to move your console back about 1/2" I did because my boot was binding the shifter. Very easy to do though.
With 285s you may not need the wheel spacers. I got away without them for a few months with 305s. It did rub hard when turning tight though. My toyos have alot of side tread too. I've seen another jeep with similar sized tires without the side tread and they were ok. Guess you just need to try it and find out.
Brake line extensions.. I'm not sure about. I havent needed them yet, but only have 2" of suspension lift.
Don't have a steering extension..
Definately need to win the lotto.
|02-11-2013 07:28 PM|
Well, here is what I went with:
Zone Offroad 3" Suspension Lift, Part J02/J03 $468
w/ 4 Nitro shocks
w/ steering stabilizer
Zone Offroad 1.25" Body Lift, Part J9120 $85
Next items up for bid will be 4 BFG AT KO 285/75/16's
Items shipped today, but after reading a ton of posts on here, guess I'm getting a little spooked about what else I will need. Do I need:
A. Motor Mount Lift
B. Slip Yoke Eliminator
C. Wheel Spacers
D. Brake Line Extensions
E. Steering Extension
F. Another Job
G. All of the Above
What additional expenses can I expect? Thanks everyone!
|02-09-2013 05:51 PM|
Hey Royal ...
Love my 2006 Rubicon, have a mild BDS lift and 32" tires, certainly a great platform to start from. My question is: have you taken your rig out on the trail yet stock? It is very capable right off the lot. From the sounds of your wheeling opportunites and your statement that 99% will be onroad DD, my advice is to run all those trails and see what you think of the way it sits now.
You can always go up and up and up ... bigger tires and better suspension and on and on and on ... but there are a few things that are one-way only and you deserve to know what a stock Rubicon is capable of before you go down that slippery slope.
|02-09-2013 01:29 AM|
|Gunner||4 inch teraflex springs and bilstein 5100 shocks. 1.25 wheel spacer. trimmed flares and 35 inch MTRK's on the rubi 16 inch wheels.|
|02-09-2013 12:57 AM|
|chevymad||Lift parts less then $300.. Wheel spacers were $120 for 4. Tires.. scary $1400. Pictures were pre-spacer.|
|02-06-2013 10:18 PM|
|Royal_Assbadger||Thanks chevymad, I took a look at ur rig and that looks great. Exactly the look I want. Rough idea of what it cost?|
|02-06-2013 10:09 PM|
|chevymad||I'm running 305/70r16 toyo mt's on the stock moab's on my 03 rubicon. I'm using 2" budget boost spacers, 1.25" body lift, 1" motor mount lift. It's workable with that but tires will rub when you turn sharp. I bought a set of 1.25" wheel spacers and all the rub is gone. I've done a couple of trails and everything seems to work well. I did rub a rear fender once but I haven't set up the bumpstops yet. So I actually have too much compression travel. No driveline vibes or death wobble at all.|
|02-06-2013 08:51 PM|
2004 Rubicon, adding lift and tires.
I've read and read this forum and really dig the info available, but am reaching information overload. I am a newby to Jeeping and often struggle with some of the terminology used here, but am trying to learn quick. My Jeep is due for new tires and an inspection. Figured I'd just have the inspecting garage put the tires on it. Only problem is I want 33" tires and will need a lift of some sort to accommodate them. I've seen a ton of pics and think a 3" lift with 33" tires is what I want.
WHAT'S IN MY SHOPPING CART:
Any suggestions/insights/warnings? I just want an economically, 3-4" lifted Jeep on 33" wheels. I'm just afraid, as a non motorhead on a budget, that I am not seeing the full picture of what I need and money involved.
Thanks a lot folks. I really look forward to reading your responses (perhaps "dumb" them down if you can). I apologize for the redundant topic, but I've searched and searched through the threads and got a lot of ideas, but just want to make sure I understand the full breadth of what I'm trying to do.