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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-13-2009 06:17 AM
bisho1 Its back in. I found out the clips that hold the throwout bearing broke. When that happened the shift fork went too far. The slave cylinder rod fell to the right a little to far. That caused the fork to go too far towards the clutch housing and grinded against it. The clutch still looked ok for 188,000 miles on it. I changed it anyways.

My lift kit is in and im putting it on tonight after I finish putting everything back together from the clutch job.
03-12-2009 05:51 AM
bisho1 7 Hours later I finally got it out. The shift fork was rubbing the fly wheel. That is the grinding sound. I think the throw out bearing came off the fork and then the shift rod from the slave cylinder moved. This caused the fork to be pushed farther forward.

The clutch on it was a Sachs clutch. My brother in law said it was after market possibly. The original owner who i bought it from said she did not do a clutch. Does anyone know if jeep used Sachs as a supplier for the clutches?

Thanks,
Bob
I will post pics later tonight.
03-11-2009 02:20 PM
Krochus
Quote:
Originally Posted by ks90yj View Post
^ I just went in from where the sifters were and was able to do it without stripping them.
I could get to em just fine, but once they stripped I needed access with a drill. They weren't rusted at all due to a long term slow oil leak, they're just a ^$%* piece of hardware. Needless to say a hex head was put back in their place.

Either way now that I have an access port next time will be a snap
03-11-2009 12:16 PM
ks90yj ^ I just went in from where the sifters were and was able to do it without stripping them.
03-11-2009 06:46 AM
Krochus
Quote:
Originally Posted by ks90yj View Post
Get you a set of inverted torx for the top two bell housing bolts.

whomever came up with that brilliant idea should be drug out in the street and shot!

I actually had to create an access panel in my floorboard after both of mine stripped.
03-10-2009 06:56 PM
ks90yj Get you a set of inverted torx for the top two bell housing bolts.
03-10-2009 06:05 PM
alaskanaddict
clutch gone

Hello, if you don't have a haynes manual now is the time to get one. They're only $15-20 and they'll save you a lot of nightmares. It's as simple as rednekyj described but time consuming. Make sure your clutch master or slave cylinder aren't the problem as they are easy fixes. With 188,000 miles your clutch and flywheel should probably be replaced if they're the original. Good luck, Bill
03-10-2009 06:35 AM
Krochus
Quote:
Originally Posted by RednekYJ View Post
Drop the skid plate, disconnect the rear/front driveshaft's, drop trans and tranny together, replace clutch.
I went the other route on my last clutch job and pulled the engine. In my opinion this was much much easier than wrestling the entire powertrain out from the vehicle bottom. The motor is really really easy to yank in a YJ
03-09-2009 08:35 PM
RednekYJ Drop the skid plate, disconnect the rear/front driveshaft's, drop trans and tranny together, replace clutch.
03-09-2009 08:24 PM
bisho1
clutch gone

Today I got a call from my wife. The jeep would not move. The clutch pedal would not go down and it grinds when it does.

Im going to replace the clutch. Has anyone done this themselves? Is there any tips or pics on doing this? I did search the forums and have not found to much info.

Any help would be great.

Thanks,
Bob

94 yj 4.0 188,000 miles

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