|12-09-2013 02:32 PM|
|12-09-2013 11:02 AM|
|TJK8||We have progress! Looking good...I'll have all the suspension and tummy tuck work to do after my bodywork is done. You may be smarter knocking it out before your body work.|
|12-08-2013 11:03 PM|
|chop110||Aww crud, I spelled out "phased" when it should have read "fazed" ...|
|12-08-2013 10:19 PM|
Once the shock mounts are tacked in and the springs are out, I can cycle the shocks from full bump to full extension to check for clearances...
Looks like we clear the installed tire too:
Once I am happy with all tolerances, I finish all of my welds.
I notched a piece of 3/16" angle iron and welded it to the back of the shock towers for strength. In practicality, this is not necessary for most people out there. In my case, there is the possibility that I may have to take my Jeep to a frame straightening machine to fix my 1/2" frame deflection. After taking a chunk out of my frame for the shock outboarding, I didn't want to leave less section modulus at these locations so that they end up being the only spots that do any of the "fix" bending.
|12-08-2013 10:00 PM|
I finally got around to outboarding the rear shocks.
I fancy myself to be somewhat of a fabricator. Ha! In the image below, you can see the lower shock mounts being made from square tube. The design is very similar to what can be found in some of the kits out there. I sized mine for the 1/2" pins on the Rancho RS999005 Shocks.
Here is view of the lower mount installed, as well as a chunck of the frame gone (After chopping the frame for the extensions, this didn't phase me in the least) to make room for some Ford shock towers. There are a ton of threads out in the forums that served as go-by's and I am thankful to every one of them.
Speaking of the Ford shock towers... I also have Blaine's handy notch in them. Although in my case, it is more for ease of assembly than weld penetration. With the tub out of the way, I have the luxury of being able to weld all around without obstruction.
|12-08-2013 09:45 PM|
I got my Tom Woods extended drive shaft in. Mine ended up being 32 1/4 inches.
Installed. Trully a thing of beauty.
|12-08-2013 09:37 PM|
|12-07-2013 09:58 AM|
|solman||How is the build coming along? I miss driving mine, hopefully it will be back on the road in another month or two.|
|11-14-2013 02:52 PM|
|11-11-2013 06:16 PM|
|TJK8||Nice build...definitely inspired me to chop mine in half!|
|11-02-2013 04:58 PM|
I fabricated my trackbar mount from scrap 2 x 3 x 3/16" tube I had from my crossmember build...
Here is the bracket welded in place with the track bar attached, ready for clearance testing.
At full bump, the top of the track barely touches the frame crossmember. It should be noted that I have 4" of bumpstops for my rear coils.
If I had an acetalyne torch, I would have heated the rod so I could have bended it a little and thus to improve clearance (Like Unlimited04 did on his setup... incidentally, I got the idea from him). This will be ok for now, I suppose.
Check out the reversed brake calipers courtesy of Mr. Blaine's kit.
|11-02-2013 04:56 PM|
And now comes a little work with Admiral Trackbar (It's a track! ...bar)
I wanted an adjustable rear track bar with an angled relocation bracket for the different pinion angle of my SYE equipped axle. I also wanted a johnny joint at the axle end of the track bar. However, I did not want to pay +$300 for a Currie setup, which woul have been my next choice. I chose to modify my existing rear track bar as follows:
Welded two halves of a 1/8" thick tube as a sleeve on the factory track bar. I also welded the halves longitudinally along the edges, not just the ends. Ground everything smooth...
Welded 1/4" thick tube sleeve over the new 1/8" material so that a 1 1/4" diameter welded bung would fit in the bigger tube as shown below. Note the setup was sized for a johhny joint.
Finished product next to the original. Painting is next.
Johnny joint = $50
Welded bung = $35
Misc steel tubing = $30
Total comes out to $115. Saved myself around $200. Yay me.
|11-02-2013 04:55 PM|
Upper coil perches relocated! Bump stops really line up better.
I also took some time to reverse the rear calipers to make more room for the outboarded lower shock mounts.
|09-03-2013 09:30 AM|
|SuperTJ||Very nice work!|
|09-03-2013 09:24 AM|
|09-01-2013 11:17 PM|
I am chomping at the bit to get back to the actual TJ-6 body stretch, but several things must happen before then...
... Such as axle work! While I was busy with the crossmember, a long awaited component finally arrived. G2 really knows how to put together a Dana44:
I will be outboarding the shocks and shifting back the upper spring perches/buckets. I used a grinder and a dremel with a cut wheel to remove them from the rear frame arches.
Whacked off upper coil buckets. Need some serious cleaning...
|09-01-2013 06:45 PM|
I am overdue for updates, so here we go…
In the interim, I have installed my fabricated custom crossmember to go with the Savvy aluminum skid.
With the skid plate on...
If you are interested, a complete build and design description of the crossmember can be found here (Yes, I know I botched the thread title):
My custom 42RE crossmember for the Savvy skid - JeepForum.com
|08-12-2013 03:10 PM|
|jeepnfool||Very interested to see this completed...|
|07-30-2013 09:55 PM|
|07-30-2013 09:48 PM|
Time for painting...
Next is the fabrication of the connection padeyes which will be welded to the interiors of the frame. By previously fitting the skid and interior connection rails underneath the Jeep, I was able to mark the crossmember location on the aluminum skid plate. The passenger side bracket will be welded on the rail while everything sits on a welding table as shown.
The 3/16" plate may be on the thin side when it comes bolt tear out stresses, so I am welding on some additional reinforcement plates on the outside faces.
The driver's side will be fitted and welded in place, while under the Jeep. This is necessary to make sure the bolt holes align.
More to come!
|07-30-2013 09:48 PM|
Well, I guess I am way overdue for an update...
Before I can finish the body work, I need to completely rehaul my drive train. I am currently working on a custom crossmember to go with my Savvy aluminum skid. For vibration isolation, I have chosen to go with AEV's excellent transmission isolation kit from their tummy tucker. The folks at AEV were nice enough to sell it to me by itself.
The isolation kit sits on a 1/4" thick plate which will be welded to a 1" deep by 3" wide box crossmember angled to match skid slopes.
|05-25-2013 03:20 PM|
|00tj2||Have a few questions for you Chop110. Do you think it would of been easier to cut the tub in a straight line just a little further back than where you did? Maybe just in the beginning of the wheel wells and then bolt on body armor could be used so the arch in the wheel well wouldn't have to be fabricated? I hope I'm explaining what I have in my mind correctly. I'm going through the "in my mind" stage right now and I want to have a my ideas ready. I have been looking at an LJ at my local dealer but like you I don't know if I can't justify taking such a loss on my jeep and paying such a price for a 10 year old LJ. Thanks for any insight you or anyone else might have.|
|05-09-2013 06:21 PM|
I got mine from Quadratec, it is the Magnaflow cat:
Magnaflow 23227 - MAGNAFLOW Performance 49 State Direct Fit Catalytic Converter for 97-99 Jeep® Wrangler TJ with 4.0L Engine - Quadratec
Be warned, that the flange holes near the header were spaced farther out than the factory flange holes. I had to drill them out to make it fit. I also reused the factory gasket.
|05-05-2013 10:24 PM|
Good job so far! I turned my CJ-5 into a 6 last year. Stretches are very time consuming projects and it is VERY difficult to get everything lined back up and straight after you cut the frame and the tub. I commend you for attempting the project with the tub still on the frame. With my first attempt I ended up with the rear right corner being a half inch higher than the other four corners. I thought I could live with it, but it eventually drove me nuts and I pulled the whole jeep apart and rebuilt the frame a second time to fix it.
Good job and keep us updated with progress!
|04-30-2013 10:17 PM|
|Dudeadam||Very cool! Been wanting to do something like this to my YJ|
|03-08-2013 06:23 PM|
Where did you get that aftermarket CAT and down pipe?
|02-14-2013 09:26 AM|
|ltdanyj||Very cool build! Jealous!!|
|02-12-2013 12:07 PM|
|ospreyfe55||Very nice job! I currently have an LJ and was looking to add a few inches to mine! I know it's an LJ its already long enough! However I have 4 kids that love to go wheeling with me and would love to have a custom Jeep. I was thinking of picking up and extra tub and adding another set of doors! Who knows. I did have one question that I have not see so far and that is what about stretching or extending the soft top, I always wondered about that. Also For my application or idea would it be better just to extend my body aft of the rear wheels? So to jack your thread! And I have subscribed.|
|01-15-2013 05:52 PM|
|01-15-2013 05:30 PM|
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