Jeep Wrangler Forum - Reply to Topic
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ General Discussion Forum > Savvy Sliders, more details and/or pics?

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Thread: Savvy Sliders, more details and/or pics? Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
02-23-2013 09:50 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
Well,

1. The backing plate is super easy to take off.

2. If you Line-X over it and need to take it off you will have to cut it away, and then you will have a spot that will start peeling.

3. If you change the slider base, (which was designed that way so it was "disposable"" you will have to deal with trying to remove a nut that is Line-xed on there. I've done it before and it's a PITA when it's in a thick spot Refer to number 2 for the start of a peeling spot. That area is usually 1/8" thick.

4. Doing it right takes literally an extra 3 minutes .

When I spray mine, I plan to remove everything maybe even the rollbar.

Small correction- The slider base isn't the disposable part, the sliders are. We've seen too many tube sliders and others that were ruined playing in the big rocks plus a lot of folks like their rigs to look good when they aren't out playing.

We designed the sliders to be able to be flipped side for side and be able to be replaced without having to preload anything once the slider base was installed correctly.

That gives you the option of having a set of nice ones without rock burrs and scratches that you can easily swap out for the working versions without having to remove the whole mess.

I set a row of nutserts in the aluminum base so I can zip out the lower row of screws with a small impact and do a change in a few minutes.
02-23-2013 09:19 AM
geiman Keep your email short and sweet. A few sentences at most. When you get more emails in a day than you can physically read, it's helpful for him to not have a book to read through.

That and try to keep calling.
02-23-2013 12:44 AM
DNKC I understand. Just have some jeep funds burning a hole in my pocket is all.. Hopefully I'll hear back soon.
02-23-2013 12:36 AM
Moabrubi
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNKC
Tried calling twice today. Left a message, no call back. Never got a response from my email the other day either.
Geralds a busy guy... getting a hold of him is tough sometimes.
02-22-2013 11:29 PM
DNKC Tried calling twice today. Left a message, no call back. Never got a response from my email the other day either.
02-21-2013 04:05 PM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike481 View Post

What does that set-up weigh? I picked up a front bumper from Gerald a few weeks ago and I'm looking to get the Goat to drop a few more pounds.
My ups shipping weight is 65lbs.
02-21-2013 08:33 AM
All Terrain JK geiman: Outstanding Sir! Thanks a ton for that info.
02-21-2013 07:38 AM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by All Terrain TJ View Post
I see the bolt, nut, and two washers. Guessing you thread the nutsert on the end, insert into drilled hole, hold bolt while tightening nut, and washers keep from marring finish. When nutsert is set loosen nut and remove bolt. What is the ball bearing type washer and what's it's purpose?
Close, but you tighten the bolt and hold the nut steady; the nut is actually either too big for the bolt so that it doesn't engage the threads, or you can drill out a nut to achieve the same thing. If you have never set nutserts before read this:

Nutsert for Transfer Case Removal and Install - JeepForum.com

It talks about nutserts for the t-case skid, but the concept is the same. It should help you understand what you're trying to accomplish. The washer(s) simply let the nut slip easier so that you can tighten the bolt and set the nutsert. You can add some grease or anti-seize to help things move easier if needed.

Setting the nutserts is very easy, once you do the first one they go fast. Your arm can get tired by the time you've done the last one, but that's about it.

Also, make sure you have the proper sized drill bit for the nutserts. It's a 17/32" drill bit and can be difficult to find at your local hardware store; I couldn't find one locally so I bought one from Amazon ahead of time.

Here's a good install thread if you need some guidance:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/sa...nstall-971817/

Make sure you pre-load them properly when installing; that's the most important part.
02-21-2013 06:54 AM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
Thanks for all the pics and info guys! I appreciate it! I'm sold on the step version. A little worried about the nutserts but I'll give it a go.

I tried calling but got a msg saying they were out of town till feb 9th, and the best way to contact would be via email. So I sent one to them, guessing they just haven't updated the recording.

Is the only benefit then to the SS being able to leave them raw? I am planning to paint mine.

Only other issue I see is with my build process. I am planning to line-x my tub interior at some point, so if I don't get it done before hand, looks like I will have to take them back off to do so due to the internal brace. Kind of a PITA but oh well.
First time I called I got the same message. Then I realized they are on Pacific time and when I called an hour later I got Gerald. Had to double check my calendar though cause I was sure that the date was Feb 12 lol.
Gerald told me the steel are thicker than the ss. Don't quote me on the numbers but I think he said 3/16 for steel and 1/8 for ss.
02-21-2013 06:36 AM
All Terrain JK Here is my nutsert tool that I used. It's just a bolt, nut, two washers, and a ballbearing washer type thing. Just make sure with whatever nutsert tool you get you use grade 8 bolts. There is a lot of nutserts to set and the bolts don't last very long.
^^^^^ Quoting Moabrubi ^^^^^
I see the bolt, nut, and two washers. Guessing you thread the nutsert on the end, insert into drilled hole, hold bolt while tightening nut, and washers keep from marring finish. When nutsert is set loosen nut and remove bolt. What is the ball bearing type washer and what's it's purpose?
02-21-2013 01:20 AM
mike481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
Sorry forgot the pic's
What does that set-up weigh? I picked up a front bumper from Gerald a few weeks ago and I'm looking to get the Goat to drop a few more pounds.
02-21-2013 01:10 AM
Moabrubi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
You would line-x the bolt threads.
If you put grease the threads it's really no biggie to spray over them.
02-21-2013 01:08 AM
Gunner You would line-x the bolt threads.
02-21-2013 01:06 AM
Moabrubi
Quote:
Originally Posted by jordorunway View Post
How come? Just wondering, im still new to everything, sorry for the dumb question lol.
Well,

1. The backing plate is super easy to take off.

2. If you Line-X over it and need to take it off you will have to cut it away, and then you will have a spot that will start peeling.

3. If you change the slider base, (which was designed that way so it was "disposable"" you will have to deal with trying to remove a nut that is Line-xed on there. I've done it before and it's a PITA when it's in a thick spot Refer to number 2 for the start of a peeling spot. That area is usually 1/8" thick.

4. Doing it right takes literally an extra 3 minutes .

When I spray mine, I plan to remove everything maybe even the rollbar.
02-21-2013 12:59 AM
jordorunway
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
You don't want to do that.
How come? Just wondering, im still new to everything, sorry for the dumb question lol.
02-21-2013 12:50 AM
Moabrubi
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
Thanks for all the pics and info guys! I appreciate it! I'm sold on the step version. A little worried about the nutserts but I'll give it a go.

I tried calling but got a msg saying they were out of town till feb 9th, and the best way to contact would be via email. So I sent one to them, guessing they just haven't updated the recording.

Is the only benefit then to the SS being able to leave them raw? I am planning to paint mine.

Only other issue I see is with my build process. I am planning to line-x my tub interior at some point, so if I don't get it done before hand, looks like I will have to take them back off to do so due to the internal brace. Kind of a PITA but oh well.
The internal brace is super easy to take off. You can just remove the nuts, take out the bolt and still leave the slider on. When I get my tub done this is what I am going to do. Reaming the holes out is easy.

As far as the nutserts, just make sure they are SET good. I was a dummy and didn't crush one good enough. It spun so I had to cut the bolt head off (couldn't pull it out and the slider was mounted), and drill out the nutsert breaking 2 drillbits in the process.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jordorunway View Post
x2! Or can you just line-x over the internal brace?
You don't want to do that.
02-21-2013 12:44 AM
jordorunway Well if you can thats what im gonna do. I figured if i put them on there their never coming off lol.
02-21-2013 12:26 AM
DNKC
Quote:
Originally Posted by jordorunway View Post
x2! Or can you just line-x over the internal brace?
I thought about that, but then thought about my luck in general and figured if I did I would need to remove it in the future for some reason or another. Things tend to work like that for me lol
02-21-2013 12:18 AM
jordorunway
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
Thanks for all the pics and info guys! I appreciate it! I'm sold on the step version. A little worried about the nutserts but I'll give it a go.

I tried calling but got a msg saying they were out of town till feb 9th, and the best way to contact would be via email. So I sent one to them, guessing they just haven't updated the recording.

Is the only benefit then to the SS being able to leave them raw? I am planning to paint mine.

Only other issue I see is with my build process. I am planning to line-x my tub interior at some point, so if I don't get it done before hand, looks like I will have to take them back off to do so due to the internal brace. Kind of a PITA but oh well.
x2! Or can you just line-x over the internal brace?
02-21-2013 12:00 AM
DNKC Thanks for all the pics and info guys! I appreciate it! I'm sold on the step version. A little worried about the nutserts but I'll give it a go.

I tried calling but got a msg saying they were out of town till feb 9th, and the best way to contact would be via email. So I sent one to them, guessing they just haven't updated the recording.

Is the only benefit then to the SS being able to leave them raw? I am planning to paint mine.

Only other issue I see is with my build process. I am planning to line-x my tub interior at some point, so if I don't get it done before hand, looks like I will have to take them back off to do so due to the internal brace. Kind of a PITA but oh well.
02-20-2013 10:19 PM
Gunner
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Those rocker guards better not be that pretty after you're done wheeling next month at Calico Gunner... maybe you should just take a BFH to them now and get it over with.
I haven't had to scrape them yet but I have touch up paint for the coming carnage. Although I did have them at the last calico I went to.

One of the things the tube sliders have is a place to put a step and holes to thru bolt them.
02-20-2013 10:06 PM
All Terrain JK Gerald told me nutsert tool would come with the kit.
02-20-2013 10:03 PM
Moabrubi Here's some up close shots of the step slider.









Here is my nutsert tool that I used. It's just a bolt, nut, two washers, and a ballbearing washer type thing. Just make sure with whatever nutsert tool you get you use grade 8 bolts. There is a lot of nutserts to set and the bolts don't last very long.

02-20-2013 09:48 PM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
Hi I have the tube ones on my Jeep. I wanted a bit of a step. Our price is 450. He has some of the tube ones on the shelf, at least he did when I bought mine. I love em. 3.16 aluminum and then 3.16 steel with another 3/16 aluminum plate inside which sanwiches your tub. The nutsert driver came with it.
After seeing yours on another thread, I called Gerald at Savvy inquired about those sliders on Monday. I wanted to get rid of my nerf bars but still had to have a step for wifey. Well he still has some available and mine are on their way. Incidentally he told me that he originally designed those cause his wife didn't like getting in his Jeep with the 2 1/4" wide step of the other style. I don't even have to remove my nerfs. After my son found out I bought sliders he had those nerfs off mine and on his jeep in about 2hrs
02-20-2013 09:31 PM
Jerry Bransford Those rocker guards better not be that pretty after you're done wheeling next month at Calico Gunner... maybe you should just take a BFH to them now and get it over with.
02-20-2013 09:26 PM
Gunner Sorry forgot the pic's
02-20-2013 09:05 PM
Jerry Bransford I've been running Savvy's rocker guards (aka sliders) on two different TJs and love them. They are basically in two pieces, the aluminum plate that bolts to the tub, and the outside rub rail that bolts to the aluminum plate. The rub rails are available in steel or stainless steel and are replaceable separately. If you are not going to paint them as I did not on my previous TJ, I'd go for the stainless version simply because it won't rust. The standard steel version of the rub rails will rust without paint, powder coating, or a lot of care.

The aluminum plate has a reinforcing inside part that bolts onto the inside of the tub so the tub's sheet metal is sandwiched between them... which makes it a LOT stronger. I have bent steel rocker guards which wrinkled the tub underneath, but I haven't managed to bend my Savvys.

Here are a few photos from my installation of them in raw unpainted/unfinished condtion on my previous TJ...
02-20-2013 08:52 PM
Gunner Hi I have the tube ones on my Jeep. I wanted a bit of a step. Our price is 450. He has some of the tube ones on the shelf, at least he did when I bought mine. I love em. 3.16 aluminum and then 3.16 steel with another 3/16 aluminum plate inside which sanwiches your tub. The nutsert driver came with it.
02-20-2013 09:32 AM
geiman The nutsert tool should come with the sliders, at least mine did. If no "tool" is included, it's really just a bolt and nut, so you can easily and cheaply put together your own tool.

There is much more information over on JeepForum about Savvy's sliders; here is a good start:

Google

As for the regular vs step sliders, Gerald told me they are eventually phasing out the regular sliders since they've found the step ones to be stronger. You can still get the regular sliders, but apparently they have been discontinued unless things have changed.

I highly recommend Savvy's sliders, they are very nice.

02-20-2013 08:59 AM
lynn Gerald usually offers a 10% discount to forum members... at least he was for control arms...
This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:27 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC