|05-30-2014 01:26 PM|
Well, it's been a little over a year since I swapped in the Dorman unit. Wear looks alright and there was actually oil collecting at the top from the oil vapor, so lubrication shouldn't be an issue. No additional play/lash either. I'll probably just make checking it a yearly event.
|05-28-2014 06:19 PM|
And I just changed mine
|05-28-2014 04:01 PM|
|LJ Dave||Hey BigBob, good to see you here and thanks for your help when I was doing my OPDA upgrade on that other forum.|
|05-28-2014 03:40 PM|
|Robbie13||Ok, I read the posts. I'm not an idiot, but what is the initials you are using? Opda?|
|05-28-2014 02:50 PM|
|TrueBlueEagle||Well I was looking at a 05 Rubi with 103,xxx and now you guys have me terrified! I'm by no means a mechanic, and this seems like if its not something that has already been done, it will have to be done soon. From the looks of it, its not something I can just pop the hood and see right off at the dealer so what would you guys do to check something like this before you bought one?|
|05-28-2014 01:54 PM|
Well I finally joined this forum!
My thoughts on OPDA issues:
In my opinion Jeep knew they were dumping the 4.0 back in 2002-2003, for sure in 2004. I wager the tooling in the engine plant was not upgraded and some of these engines have excessive tolerances in that OPDA bore to the cam gear interface. Just a hunch, but I bet this is the case.
The dorman is far better than anything else out there.
The SG mod has so many issues that I'd just forget that one. Besides they are no longer built.
Getting the shaft in straight and true with the SG mod is not possible IMHO. Many folks actually ruined the bearing installing it and many have lost the bottom bushing due to misalignment. I built at least 20 of these. But i don't like them.
The Dorman looks like it is straight and true, but who knows how much gear lash there is unless you pull the oil pan? It does get lube to the top bushing via oil vapor. A low load slow shaft like that does not need to much oil to keep the bushing alive. I've had mine in for about 1,000 miles and intend to pull it to check for wear.
The "constant oil" mod would be great, but I have never figured out how to seal it up so oil isn't running out. It'll work with the SG mod, but it's not needed there. The oil bath works great, but only with a good stock OPDA as it has a seal on top. The Dorman definitely does not have a seal.
BTW, for anyone who is thinking about changing out the OPDA here is a good word doc on how to do it without throwing a code. Keep the sharpie pen for getting autographs at concerts and NHRA drag races.
|04-11-2014 12:22 PM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
I agree, NorthTJ79.
The potential problem with the Dorman is that like the OEM units there is no lubrication to the top bushing. They use a bronze bushing rather than the OEM steel ones but without lube I have to wonder if even bronze will last. Time & miles will answer that.
The stripper guy mod looks sound but I recall there is one reported failure & if I recall that was a failure of the BOTTOM bushing so that may well be an isolated case.
The original modification used grease to lube the top bushing on the OEM units. Some of us modified that idea to use oil with variations on the so called FOGMod grease setup. With the stripper guy mod & the release of the Dorman unit there have been virtually no postings of grease/oil mods being done. I have followed this issue on several threads on 2 forums since early 2011 & have traced the first use of the grease mods to at least Jan, 2010. I have not seen one reported failure of any OPDAs using either grease or oil to lube the top bushing. I have a little over 8,000 miles on my oil cup mod with no problems to my original unit.
It is worth noting that the OEM has a seal between the top & bottom bushings but it has been reported that the Dorman does not have that seal. If true (I haven’t personally verified that), the oil mod & probably the grease one too should only be done on the OEM units. The seal is needed to contain the oil on the top bushing & probably the grease too. The exception to this is the mod Big Bob used that had constant oil pumped to the top busing which would work on the Dorman but on the OEM only if the seal is removed.
Big Bob’s oil bath video
OPDA 2006 Jeep Oil Bath Modification - YouTube
My method (more about 11 posts later)
2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 70 - JeepForum.com
Main (long) thread
2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - JeepForum.com
|04-11-2014 11:13 AM|
|NorthTJ79||my best advice would be to modify the stock opda to correct the oiling issue. which is most likely what i will be doing when it goes back together|
|04-11-2014 04:35 AM|
|04-10-2014 08:18 PM|
|NorthTJ79||well i have to update that after 10k miles my Dorman opda failed and was almost fully seized when i got it out. got a new one just to try on warranty and the cam ruined it almost immediately. pretty bummed but leaning towards a stroker just dont want this issue to happen again after all that. anyone else?|
|01-31-2014 08:39 AM|
I actually had to get rid of my TJ .. I took off the OPDA that I did the oil cup mod to before I traded it .. So I have it for sale if any one is interested .. Shot me a message if so ..
|01-30-2014 06:39 PM|
|01-30-2014 05:32 PM|
|LJ Dave||I know this is an old thread, but I'm brand new to this forum and I just purchased the Dorman 689-201 camshaft synchronizer (OPDA) from Rockauto for $78.89 plus shipping. I plan to install it sometime over the winter. My original OPDA failed when the jeep was new with about 5k miles on it. Dealer replaced it under warranty. It only has about 16.5k miles on it now and it screams when I cold start it, just like it did before the first failure. I hope I can install it without getting a code, and I just wanted to let others know that these have come down in price.|
|07-14-2013 10:05 AM|
|07-13-2013 09:05 PM|
|Leslee||What is the correct torque?.|
|07-13-2013 11:06 AM|
|07-13-2013 11:04 AM|
A. The OPDA issue is not as big of an issue as its made out to be.
B. Regardless if you're using the doorman unit(which I have one)or the regular OEM one, all the units will experience and show some wear on the teeth, and it will be the same pattern.
C. One thing that has NEVER been mentioned, but should is that they way the unit is held down in place. It can shift a bit due to loosening up over time. I have worked on over a DOZEN 05-06 TJ/LJ's including 2 of my own. I have found that NONE of them were correctly torqued down. All of the retaining bolts were able to be torqued down further to the correct tq. specifications.
D. When you combine the natural wear and tear on the gear set along with the potential for the unit to slightly rotate you can get the dreaded "code".
E. 4 of these OPDA's(including one on one of my LJ's)showed significant wear, but were still reusable just by resetting(slightly rotating)the OPDA back to the proper alignment to account for the wear on the gearset(one has gone on to log on another 30k since with 0 issues, and the OPODA gear already had that "knifeblade" wear pattern to its gear). Since then its been pulled a few times and Ive come to the conclusion that once the wear pattern is set in(which happens relatively quickly, within a few thousand miles)the natural wear over miles and time reduces significantly.
F. None have ever needed a camshaft replacement to compliment a new OPDA regardless.
Saying all this, its not a bad idea to have a backup OPDA on hand ready to go(which I do), and there are legit issues with a number of factory OPDA's being out of spec. which probably need to be replaced , but the problem is still way overblown, and its an easy and simple fix or swap out when that time does come. But before outright replacing it, I would actually just have the current unit inspected and most likely just reset/recentered and correctly tq'd down if throwing a code for the first time. If the OPDA is close within spec it should last roughly 100k or more. Even the ones that are not many times still last a lot longer than people realize.
|07-13-2013 10:44 AM|
79,500 miles on OEM. Installed the Dorman OPDA this morning. The old one had wear similar to most on here (not terrible but definitely unusual wear). I didn't have any ticking or other noises but the wear was definitely there.
I'm not even close to a shade tree mechanic. Took me just over an hour to get everthing lined up, replace the OPDA, and six new spark plugs. Runs like a top and no codes after getting up to operating temperature and driving a few miles.
|05-25-2013 05:07 PM|
|yoopone||Installed my Dorman OPDA today. All is good. The original synchronizer had virtually no wear. If I look at it under a magnifying glass there is some shininess but virtually no wear. Jeep has 44,000 on it. Cam drive gear looked fine too.|
|05-18-2013 09:46 PM|
Here is an update on my Jeep. My local shop said the wear on my unit and cam were normal. I am replacing my OPDA with the Doreman unit with the hope of not having an issue later that will require me to replace the cam. I have 67,000 miles on the Jeep and don't want to basically pull the motor apart with out rebuilding it. My thinking is if you take the motor down to the point of removing the cam, then for just a little more money I can replace everything but the crank and have a fresh motor. (I would also have the head and block worked as well as replacing the parts) I will update as things progress.
|05-18-2013 07:31 AM|
|05-17-2013 05:58 AM|
|ninjaturtle0||From reading the other forum it was being said that a heavily damaged cam can damage a new opda|
|05-16-2013 04:15 PM|
|Stankgearoil||OEM opda is problematic design. If it were normal wear and tear , or both parts were defective, then yes, replacing both is logical. And of course replacing both parts is preferable if you have the $ even in this case but a new non-defective opda is a great mid term solution for less than $200 and 30 min. The cost of "doing right" can be significant if you take it to a legit mechanic. Gotta figure out how much more you plan on getting out of your current motor before you spend that kind of cheddar.|
|05-15-2013 06:53 PM|
That's what I'm thinking. It seems logical but all that is said is here's my damaged OPDA and cam shaft. I put in my new OPDA no problems any more.
I apologize if I'm hijacking a little here but I am debating on whether to purchase the dorman unit but im not going to install it on a bad cam gear. It just seems dumb to do that.
I fly airplanes for a living so I am very engine sensitive.
|05-15-2013 10:42 AM|
|ninjaturtle0||From reading up about the opda issue it would make since that the cam will have to be replaced also|
|05-14-2013 07:35 PM|
I have a dumb question about the OPDA whether it be the dorman or oem. As I look at these pictures every one with wear shows wear on both the cam gear on the OPDA and wear on the gear on the cam shaft
My question is with the worn gear on the cam isn't that just going to wear out the new part? I would think that both parts would need to be replaced.
I'm just asking. It seems like basic mechanics
|05-14-2013 12:21 PM|
|NorthTJ79||update. after 1700 miles with no issues i got the p0016 code. luckily a friend of mine had computer very similar to what the dealer uses. it relearned the new dorman opda and the code has not come back|
|05-14-2013 10:23 AM|
|Forward||Thanks for the reply. Jeep still will not start. I must have some other issues. Had to get it towed to my local shop. I will post the findings.|
|05-13-2013 02:27 AM|
|RUBI 4 MY MRS||
Here are a couple links that describe the process with photos of the timing marks & proper positioning.
OPDA install w/photos Also post #5 here
|05-12-2013 09:53 PM|
|SeVeReDiStOrTiOn||For TDC take out the #1 plug and rotate the balancer until the timing mark lines up perfectly and you have pressure in the #1 cylinder (finger in the hole...gigitty gigitty goo ). You might have to remove the belt to see the marks but they're there. Putting some white out on the marks makes it easier.|
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