|12-08-2014 12:52 PM|
|daddyjeep||Glad you at least stopped in to say hi. It has been almost a year. I have been following your build in both places.|
|12-04-2014 11:15 AM|
Been a while since I've even thought about this build thread....
I suppose I should update. JK Rubicon 44's are currently being built and installed.
Catch up on the JF build: 'rock crawling go-cart' or something - Page 390 - JeepForum.com
|01-31-2014 12:25 PM|
You just sealed the deal for going matte vs. clear coat when I paint my TJ. Looks great. I've got a black hard top, black wheels, black skid plates, black body armor with a hunter green TJ. Looks kind of weird. lol
Awesome build. You should sell yourself, get a GoPro and start making videos.
|09-06-2013 01:50 PM|
|12mile||Lookin good neighbor!|
|09-05-2013 04:53 PM|
LOL. Come on now.
Here's a few updated pictures.
|08-28-2013 11:11 PM|
|minime331||looks good are you done or still got more to go ?|
|08-19-2013 08:23 AM|
|Imped||Too much work......the better, full build thread is on JF.|
|08-13-2013 12:23 PM|
|NJO||Imped, you need to get this thread updated......none of the pic links work. Fix please.|
|04-24-2013 06:52 PM|
|elclipo||Damn, I would be happy with a d44 rear lol|
|04-24-2013 06:41 PM|
|aTX427||Nice, I am about a year and a half behind you.|
|03-20-2013 12:36 PM|
|03-20-2013 11:58 AM|
Well damn dude. That's gonna be awesome, you might need a mortgage to finish though...
Can you get the rear shafts in 8x170?
|03-20-2013 10:26 AM|
Good questions. The housing will come from Ruffstuff without the C's unless I ship them the C's to weld on when they build the housing. That actually may be the best route since they've got a tru-bar setup to keep everything perfectly concentric, I do not. I'm still researching the details on the C's, knuckles, and brakes so I haven't made a decision on where I'll go with it yet. But it'll definitely use Ford ball joint/unit bearing parts, it's just a matter of vintage.
Apparently, guys are getting about 30k combined street/trail miles out of those UB's and 42's. That works for me.
|03-19-2013 05:30 PM|
A few questions I'm left with: when you say "from the c's out" do you mean you'll get the 9 housing and then press and weld the new c's in, or does it come from ruffstuff fab already in place on the housing? Second question, why a detroit in front and arb in back? I have a few ideas why you might do that, but instead of speculating I'll just ask.
Those super duty 60's are nice. Reading about them, I wonder will you use the super 60 unit bearing, or will you use something smaller/narrower?
EDIT: nvm, just saw your post with the 350 unit bearing
|03-19-2013 04:00 PM|
Heck yeah, sounds good. You gona keep her on the road?
That difference is huge, but when your building like that you need it.
|03-19-2013 03:40 PM|
I'll probably run the 37's for a bit longer then go to 40's or 42's. Those axles will hold up just fine to either one.
Just an example of a TJ unit bearing vs. 08 Ford F350 unit bearing
|03-19-2013 02:05 PM|
|03-19-2013 01:59 PM|
|03-19-2013 10:44 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||Sticking with the same link setup and and just swapping the axles? I know you put a lot of work into what you have now. Those axles will be NICE.|
|03-18-2013 07:54 AM|
No, that's a Ruffstuff fab 9 housing with 14 bolt spindles. So, it will end up being a FF rear axle.....a 914 if you will. Plans are Tru Hi9 case, ARB, and 5.38 gears. Shafts will come from Branik Motorsports. WMS to WMS will be 70". I'll probably start building the front axle over the winter--same housing, Hi9 case, Detroit and 5.38's. Outers will be Ford 05+ Super Duty 60 stuff from the C's out.....a 609.
Next winter, I'll probably start to look moving my current axles in preparation for the swap. Until then, I'll wheel it and drive it.
|03-15-2013 04:45 PM|
Is that a 14 bolt drop out?
What are your plans for it, you have a link?
|03-15-2013 12:52 PM|
|bobthetj03||That thing looks bullet proof! Nice!|
|03-15-2013 09:26 AM|
I'll be starting on a new project soon.
|03-05-2013 12:21 PM|
|sp33dfr33k||I jumped over and scoped out those vids, good stuff.. Wish the re-organization of photo bucket didn't screw up your links, happened to me once too... but the thing looks great in the vids... functional to an Extreme..! Well done..! Hope mine turns half that bad ass|
|03-04-2013 01:39 PM|
|Imped||Cut the plug off, spliced some similar-gauge wire onto the bare ends and ran it to the res motor. Cleaned it, taped it up and voila.|
|03-02-2013 10:15 PM|
|G-Rocc||Imped, I think I bought the same windshield fluid reservoir. How did you connect it to the plug for the Jeep?|
|02-26-2013 01:33 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Okay that's right I remember now. Yeah I have a little down time next week so I am just going to do the skid and cross member.|
|02-26-2013 01:22 PM|
Yep, I organized my Photobucket account and it really screwed up a lot of links. I don't have time to go through and fix it all right now.
I switched from my old steel flat skid to the Savvy UA setup--one piece skid and crossmember from their 'modular' kit. I was going to do my own but was so tired of fabbing and was just ready to hit the trail, that the price made it completely worth it. I'll probably do my own in the future at some point but for now, I love this setup.
|02-26-2013 01:00 PM|
So none of your pictures are working on page 7 except like 2, but you went from the 1 piece skid to the separate crossmember and skid right? that change is what lost you the little bit of belly clearance? We just set up a crossmember on a friends jeep but with a different t case than you have, and were able to get it nearly flat. Going to be welding mine up next week and was just brushing up on the design and stuff from a few other builds. I know yours turned out very well and wanted to check a few specifics. What was the main reason you couldn't go flat in your case? The trans tunnel?
Also, awesome work, I bet it feels great to say you only have thing left on the list. I will be taking notes from your hp30 build/design in a few months.
|02-26-2013 08:31 AM|
Honestly, with it being lower, wider, and longer (with longer control arms and more exposed rear frame mounts) than it was before on 35's I'm shocked at how little I hit everything. The video you see where I slide on the belly skid, I also hit the LCA mount and you can hear me say something like, "I'd like to know if I can hit that stuff." I found it odd just how nicely it peaked over objects without hitting a thing. The extra wheelbase and stability is well worth any perceived downfall I picked up along the way.
As for my skid vs. the new one, I freakin love it. I like not having to use the skid so it'll probably sit in the garage until it's time to to go wheeling--it just makes working on things much easier. The new skid also feels much more rigid when I come down on it....my old skid had a little flex in it that you could feel when laying down on it but the new one--due to how it ties into the crossmember and uses a second crossmember/brace at the rear--is one very rigid unit. I like it very much.
Overall, I think the rig gained so much over the past year that it's hard to quantify. For where and how I wheel, it works so well. All it needs now is a rear diff that can hold up and those parts are on the way.
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