|04-15-2014 02:43 PM|
|mattmason||Unfortunately I have to replace the gas tank cause of theives but who knows maybe I'll get all the gremlins out of it and be able to come out and play again|
|04-15-2014 02:38 PM|
|mattmason||Yea I've done that. I also did the harness for the engine compartment and the shock tube spark wires and plugs and all fuses and relays and got new battery cables installed as well as the computers. Still no love I am going to tear it apart and start fresh and take some time and do the transmission and transfer case basically I feel like doing a good front to back job on it and getting to all new and going that way will be the best idea and maybe I'll learn a few things|
|04-14-2014 08:12 AM|
|hotshot123||have you changed the switch on the column yet? it was suggested on the first page. it is only a 10 dollar part and if that is not the problem you can return it. just had a 94 in my shop that had all sorts of electrical gremlins and the PO had changed everything from the injectors to ecm and it still wouldn't run, shut down randomly, fuel pump turning off and on, anyway I replaced the ignition switch and it fixed everything.|
|04-13-2014 08:42 AM|
|first4x4toy||have you load tested the battery I know it sounds stupidly simple but it could cause all ur problems and ck rod length and seat points from lock cylinder to ignition switch hard to see but flashlight and mirrors work wonders dont give up on the old girl cause once ya do you will regret it|
|04-13-2014 04:05 AM|
|mrjoey||just replaced my ignition key switch it no longer pushed the actuator rod down far enough to engage ign. switch....did not have any of the symptoms you describe clock going out etc.....|
|04-12-2014 12:21 PM|
Dunno if it will help....
I had an older Bronco 2 that had "battery issues". Sometimes wouldn't crank (just click) sometimes wouldn't do a damn thing. Ended up replacing the battery, cables, starter, Alt and it still did it randomly. What it finally turned out to be? The ground where the bolt went to the block to hold the Negative cable was RUSTED! Never thought to check the hole. Everything looked fine from the outside but it was sooo corroded inside the hole that the ground just couldn't keep enough contact sometimes. I moved the ground to a cleaner location and the problem went away.
Not saying that's your problem, but it's something I've learned in my bag of tricks to check for when all else fails.
You can "mimic" new battery cables too by using a set of jumper cables. Put the ground somewhere different that's clean and the positive down to the starter and see what happens. You'd at least eliminate any possible issues with the cables at that point.
I know it's frustration but sometimes just step back from it watch a movie then come back and tackle it again.
My 88 FSM says there is a solenoid for the starter in the corner of the engine compartment. Does the 89 have one (I don't have an 89 fsm ) I've seen some interesting things with those lol.
|04-12-2014 11:45 AM|
|mattmason||all that is good now its the engine and transmissions from sitting plus since it killed over on the high way it sat and some dick muncher vandalized my tank to get gas out of it, they cut a hole at the bottom of it so yea tons of work to do with it now.|
|04-12-2014 11:37 AM|
check the battery cables themselves, about 1-2 inches into the cable see if there are white crystals in the cabling my wife's cherokee just did the same thing and her cables were bad but the f'ed up thing about it was the corrosion wasn't sitting at the top by the connectors it was down a bit
|04-12-2014 11:27 AM|
|mattmason||nice. any idea on how I can get my hands on some less expencive quality parts as I got the freaking thing up and running but only got about 1200 miles out of it and then it keeled over again. so I am stuck ripping it apart again and hoping I can figure this out as it has to be a serious issue now|
|06-30-2013 05:18 PM|
|AllMudd||mattmason - I feel you man! I'm in the military too. Kinda funny though our vehicles are almost mirror image of each other. 95 Jeep wrangler and 2011 Journey|
|06-30-2013 05:13 PM|
|06-30-2013 10:01 AM|
|sslopok||The previous owner of my jeep when driving it and it died. Had no fuel and no spark. The ecm in the yjs are known to just puke.|
|06-30-2013 09:29 AM|
|mattmason||well money has been an issue through this whole thing as my funds are usually limited as I don't get paid a lot in being a military member and living among the general public doesn't help but I think I am not doing too shabby.|
|06-29-2013 12:19 AM|
|Pittsburghwrangler||If money is an issue you can do it without the steering wheel puller, I have done it myself to fix turn signals and horn but the puller will save you alot of trouble.|
|06-28-2013 07:43 PM|
|mattmason||well I have checked every ground at least 3 times to include the one on the back of the engine to the firewall. anyways just ordered a new engine control module and wire harness. the tumbler I have but I need to get a wheel puller like tomorrow.|
|06-27-2013 10:49 AM|
|AZ WRANGLER||Ground wire is not secure somewhere or hooked up wrong to a positive lead. It sounds like turning the ignition is draining all the power because of a wiring issue|
|06-26-2013 07:45 AM|
We understand you are frustrated but honestly you may need to provide some pictures at this point I have read through the whole thread and you stated that originally the issue was it died in a turn. Then you started replacing parts including fuses and wires. Can you tell us was it a right hand turn or left hand turn? And is the vehicle lifted with big tires also if it is lifted were the turn stops adjusted.
The reason I am asking this is it may be something as simple as when you made the turn you pulled a wire loose I will be honest I am guessing but with out pictures of the electrical components to see how they are attached we will be limited in how we can assist you. Please take a pic of all the grounds you have found and the starter to solenoid to firewal to battery and post them.
Lastly when you put the screwdriver to the starter did the vehicle crank and run or did you just test its ability to crank?
|06-25-2013 10:53 PM|
You never did say what the original problem was. Have you even driven this thing before? If so, what made you throw all the parts at it? Why were you replacing the fuses? Were the actually blown? We need some more info to help out. Its not really clear if you replaced the ignition switch yet, I would start there after verifying that I have GOOD grounds.
On a side note.....A friend of mine is a mechanic by trade. He has owned his '55 Chevy since high school, he is around 50. He has been chasing down a slow/no crank issue when the engine is hot for years! The motor has been out 4-5 times, multiple starters, solenoids, ignition switches, batteries and even adding jumper wires to help get it started.
Last Friday, he had the same problem. Go figure. He cut the ground wire at the battery (in the trunk) a couple inches shorter and re-installed it on the terminal. The car started better than when it did cold. He has been chasing this problem for over 10 years! Funny stuff.
|06-25-2013 10:04 PM|
|AllMudd||I have read through this post and didn't see this suggestion but I might be wrong. Have you looked into a new tumbler? The ignition tumbler on the steering column me be bad. They go out often on older vehicles, especially when you have a ridiculous number ok keys hanging by the tumbler will off roading. This would explain why the clock works fine while its in the off position and nothing works in the acc. position.|
|06-25-2013 09:54 PM|
|mattmason||Still workin' on her... Shit honestly bout to give up, and just get a newer jeep.|
|06-06-2013 09:39 PM|
|mattmason||nope tried everything now to the point of even checking voltage on the ignition coil and checking each wire individually. my mind is blown. I really think I just need to get someone here to look at it or the last resort take out a loan and take it to a mechanic. yea that's not ideal for me to tack it to a shop as I believe they break stuff just enough to where I have to come back to get it fixed so they can make more money off people. or they use substandard parts and charge for the more expensive ones.|
|03-09-2013 03:33 PM|
|bajajohn||Some times in the Ignition circuty they have fuse links these things can be a pain to diagnose. I had one that was consealed in the wireing harness that I like to never found.|
|03-09-2013 01:57 PM|
|mattmason||yea pretty much the entire dash is off now and i am about ro loose the ac to get to the switch, but grounds may also be another point of interest to me i am thinging as it would not start back up after i hit the head lights but i am replacing the switch first to double tap and make sure it is not that. i bought a whole hell of a lot of extra wire and so attaching points to creat more grounding points if that need arises. also found a home made wire diagram that makes more since than what is in the book that i got. maybe when my next rebuuild manual gets here it will have some better thoughts on this as well.|
|03-03-2013 02:41 PM|
|Garyk||At this point I would suspect the switch. It should be mounted on the column just under the dash, you say there is something in the way?|
|03-03-2013 02:02 PM|
|mattmason||alright just replaced all the fuses, but still when the key is to off the clock runs like it should. then when moved to the acc position the clock dies and nothng else comes to life, i also went and tried the starter relay again. still no dice. my other thought is that it coul be the ignition switch itself. though with its location its like a mother fucker to get to at this point i think i ought to take off the air conditioner bracket to get to it as this jeep has that feature which i dont really understand.|
|02-26-2013 06:16 PM|
the starter came from rugged ridge, so yea its not a referb. when its still in the accessory possion the clock works but thats about it everything else to include fuel gauge still doesnt work. working on the fuses. and before i replaced all that stuff it had died going around a turn at a signal light intown and yea i was unable to get it started back up. it may be a colum issue i mean i do have a new ignition and ignition switch i have yet to put in and was hoping to avoid doing.
i do hope its something as easy as fuses though. i would like to have my jeep back up and running before the weather gets nice to go play in the snow a bit
|02-26-2013 05:04 PM|
|Nanook||Do you have a multimeter to test the battery? Also, when you say that you turned the key do mean to start it or just to the accessory position? Have you checked fuses? My initial thoughts were some sort of short in your column/ignition?|
|02-26-2013 04:23 PM|
You mentioned the starter has been replaced...where did you get it? Some discount auto parts stores are not known for their reliable rebuilts....
If the jeep ran before you replaced the parts then its either a bad part or something got messed up in the install...
|02-26-2013 01:50 PM|
I would try unhooking everything from the hot wire on the starter to the ground wire off the battery to to frame.
Clean everything with a wire brush and electrical cleaner (or such) then reassemble making sure everything seats nice and tight and has a good contact patch.
|02-26-2013 01:00 PM|
|RandomYJguy||How are the cables? With the way it just clicks and everything dies. It sounds like a bad connection. My assumption is the ground. Take the jumper cables. Attach one ground to the battery. Then take the other ground cable ans ground that to the chassis somewhere. Then both positives just attach to the "grille support?" (The 2 rods that attach from the firewall to the grille. Try and turn it on. If this works. It's a bad ground connection.|
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