|Yesterday 11:29 PM|
Relating a couple of your issues to similar ones that I had:
On my 4.2L engine a couple of the head bolts need thread sealant on them because the bottom on the bolt cavity is hollow. In my case, I originally read "thread sealant" to mean thread locker. Well that didn't work and I wound up getting coolant in places it wasn't supposed to be and had to redo the job with thread sealant. A simple fix if it is the issue. You can pull one head bolt out at a time, just one though.
With the running for a minute then dying - when I did my fuel injection conversion I had the wiring laying all over the engine just to see if it would fire before I tailored the harness to exact length. Well the injector wires were laying near the sparkplug wires and they were picking up the interference and voltage spiking the injectors. Your engine bay looks clean and organized, but maybe some wiring needs to be isolated.
Does your system have an ICM? Mounted inside the distributor on a heat sink? That can be taken to Autozone for multiple bench tests. A single test will not indicate accurately. That wiring is also very sensitive, (should be twisted together and isolated). I was actually measuring the distance in inches that the ICM wires were away from the plug wires. Went from 4" to 9" to 12" before my issues cleared out!
For a while my system would run, shutdown and not restart. The plugs were fouled. At one point it was oil on the plugs and the valve seals were replaced. Then it was fuel on the plugs and the mixture was leaned out in the chip. Check out your plugs when it dies. A leaking valve cover, non-functioning PCV, wrong plugs, etc...
Also, I realize that your EFI is native to the engine that it is on, but I had to check voltages on each pin out of the ECM with key on before going to start position - make sure all the voltages were correct.
Just some suggestions that I learned the hard way. Probably just issues that I had, but hopefully the brainstorming sparks the answer.
Are you taking that Jeep to the monster truck jam? That thing is insane! Nice job.
I see you had/have the same orange plastic airline that I have. I HATE that thing in the cold! Can't wait to get rid of it. Lol.
Coolant temperature sensor. Check that too. After running for 10 minutes it should be near op. temp. If the CTS is faulty its going to tell the ECM that the engine is cold and dump too much fuel - fouling the plugs - no fire.
Fresh gas in the tank?
|11-27-2014 09:10 PM|
|YJMike92||I guess now would be the time to replace the tube if you had to. Probably easier to get it out with the pan off.|
|11-26-2014 11:57 PM|
|daddyjeep||The problem is definitely in the tube itself. I'm going to try and smooth the end of the stick a little more. I probably pushed a burr in the side of the tube and it is now causing the stick to hang up.|
|11-26-2014 11:45 PM|
|YJMike92||Could the dipstick tube be bent or kinked some how causing a problem? I guess even with the pan off it is still not going in?|
|11-26-2014 11:35 PM|
|daddyjeep||That's a good thought with the pressure tester. The dip stick is out of a different 5.2 out of a 96 GC. I also compared it to a couple of dodge 5.2's and they were all the same.|
|11-26-2014 10:44 PM|
|YJMike92||Could it be possible that is not your original dip stick?|
|11-26-2014 10:41 PM|
|YJMike92||If you have access to a radiator pressure tester, you could pressurize the system while the pan is off and see if any water shows up internally.|
|11-26-2014 12:14 PM|
|11-26-2014 08:53 AM|
If it is condensation it will be clear water. Assuming you have antifreeze in the cooling system you should be able to tell from the color.
Sorry, I didn't go back to read the full thread, which engine are you using and having the dipstick issue with? I know on my SBC there was a tube pressed into the block that I originally forgot about and my dipstick did the same thing as you are describing.
|11-25-2014 10:46 PM|
Well I dropped the oil pan tonight and there is very little sign of water in there. See attached pic. I think I need to run it some more and see what I have.
Thoughts? Could this be condensation?
Still cant figure out why I am having so much trouble with the dipstick. Can't see any obstruction from either end.
|11-24-2014 10:09 PM|
|daddyjeep||Yea...I should have known when they lost two head bolts and just put grade 5 bolts in their place. The freeze plug on the back of the block was leaking slightly too, but seems to have stopped.|
|11-24-2014 08:56 PM|
|YJMike92||Bummer about coolant in the oil. I hope it's not serious. I will admit I cringed at the thought of the Vo-Tech rebuilding your motor. Thought to myself you might be better off with out a rebuild. I have enjoyed your build, and again I hope it's not serious.|
|11-23-2014 10:26 PM|
I've been slowly working away at my list. I suppose I should post my list. Anyway, tranny lines repaired, power steering line replaced, electric fan temporarily wired, and new computer installed. It finally starts and runs.
I'm going to wire the fan into one of the unused relays in the PDC instead of the extra relay.
Now with the bad news. The power steering reservoir in leaking horribly. It gets worse...I have coolant in the oil. My dipstick isn't going all the way into the pan so it is possible that I have a little condensation in the tube, but it really doesn't look like i'll be that lucky. I need to drain the oil and see what I have going on. Then pull the pan to figure out my dipstick issue.
I thought I was almost there, but looks like a bit of a set back instead.
|11-06-2014 08:01 PM|
|Wombat Ranger||Hmm okay thank you. I will have to be careful with my wheel choice if mine end up under my rig, I can't be any wider than about 79", 76-7 would be better.|
|11-06-2014 07:13 PM|
|daddyjeep||It is right about 80", as best I can measure by myself. 35 x 12.50 on 10" wheel with 3.5" backspacing.|
|11-05-2014 08:05 PM|
|Wombat Ranger||You are running 1/2 ton ford hp44/9" axles right? I saw you mention that in another thread. What is your overal width with your wheels/tires on it?|
|10-27-2014 07:42 PM|
Some little updates over the weekend.
After some gussets
Some brake line brackets i'm too cheap to buy them so I threw these together.
A little cardboard teaser of my new upper front shock mounts. I need a little more than 3" of up travel.
|10-27-2014 12:58 AM|
|Tx 91 YJ||
|10-24-2014 05:26 PM|
|10-24-2014 02:14 PM|
|rjwestphal||the best part about coming in to a build thread late is you can read the whole thing without waiting for an update. But it sucks when you come to the end of the thread . fun looking jeep.|
|10-23-2014 12:53 PM|
|10-23-2014 12:16 AM|
|Tx 91 YJ||Yea funny how build threads seem to go dead lol. Mine is all but 6ft under..|
|10-21-2014 10:42 PM|
Wow, it's been a while since I have posted anything or done anything i guess. I fealt it was time to get back in the shop. Still need a pcm, but found some things to tinker with.
Went from this...
I have needed to get rid of the red inner fenders for about 5 years. Wasn't a high priority obviously.
I also attempted to repair one of my pcm's by replacing the capacitors. That failed. I learned a bit so will try again on the other one.
|07-28-2014 05:17 PM|
|daddyjeep||Not a whole lot going on. Cleaning up a few little things. Mostly just need some cash for a new computer and a few little pieces. I have to get my bigger smoker built in the next few weeks so any extra cash I have needs to go there.|
|07-28-2014 04:42 PM|
I just had to make a post and move this one back to the top, It was getting pretty far down the page.
Did you get any further along on the completion of it? Was just getting curious since I haven't heard from you lately...Need any help?
|07-18-2014 03:17 PM|
He told me that a simple static electricity charge will ruin them.
They have to wear a grounding strap from their wrist to the body when doing anything electrical to the ECM. And the sequence of hooking up the battery matters as well.
Always take the negative terminal off first, then the positive. And reverse when installing, positive on first, then negative. Keeps it from arcing. And take both terminals off of the battery.
Not my words, just his way of doing it at the dealership. I personally wouldn't think that they would be that sensitive, but who knows.
|07-16-2014 10:04 PM|
|daddyjeep||Well, haven't paid for the ECM yet so I can just give it back. Not getting any CEL codes so I doubt it's any of the sensors. Looks like I should just buy a new ECM so I know it's good.|
|07-16-2014 09:38 PM|
I talked with Steve about your 2 minute run time, and he said basically the same thing that WICruiser stated.
He did also say that it could be because of the lack of backpressure from the open exhaust is giving the O2 sensor fits.
And, or, (I know you don't want to read this one) the capacitors in the ECM are heating up and causing the shut down to happen. Hence the reason it takes 10 minutes to restart (time for the capacitors to cool down).
|07-10-2014 06:48 PM|
You need to determine if the inability to restart is due to spark or fuel. Spark is fairly easy - you have it or you don't. Fuel could go either way - to much fuel it will not fire and not enough fuel it won't fire. I would check spark first and if it has spark pull a spark plug to see if it is wet or dry.
All that will do is help ID the problem area but the actual problem may be harder. It could be that the computer is running the few minutes in open loop mode but as soon as it switches to closed loop the feedback loop is doing something that kills it.
Let us know what the base problem is (above) and we may be able to help point you in the right direction.
|07-09-2014 11:27 PM|
I have no idea how im going to fit my flowmaster under my Jeep with those long arms. I can put it way in the back where the gas tank used to be but I really dont like that idea.
So...the Jeep runs for a couple minutes and dies on me now. Once it dies it won't restart for about ten minutes. Any advice on where to start?
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